Indianapolis Times, Volume 45, Number 277, Indianapolis, Marion County, 30 March 1934 — Page 19

SfAT?CTr 30, 103?.

Fashions for Easter Blow In, Scattering Prints in All Directions

Taffetas Also March in Vernal Style Parade Ripple Collars Feature Fox-Trimmed Coats and Flowers Bloom on Bonnets. BY GERTRUDE BAILEY 'Vi'ARCH winds have swept thrilling Easter fashions into Npw York. '■* In th shops the clothes still are effervescing from the impact of creation. The motion that still Is evident is what you want to get Into your own spring wardrobe. Streamline silhouettes arrived first, doubtless because of their lowered wind resistance. Then simplicity got caught in the breeze. Skirts were pushed forward, blown backward, depending on which way the wind happened to be blowing. Complacent revers were ruffed up into flattering fi minine ripples. Pleat ings and frills were sent whirlpooling to the bottom of skirts or skyrocketing to necklines. m m m man For Eastern Influence T}RINTS were scattered in every direction. Some landed on hats and •* blouses of suits. Gloves, too. Fruit and flowered frocks grabbed on /to velvet or woollen coats and became redingotes. Unidentified prints took to jackets. Beautiful Japanese prints blithely threw both jackets and coats to the winds, arriving in unadulterated loveliness. Out of all this whirl of newness we were able to identify printed coats worn over plain dresses. They're mandarin coats in Chinese colorings. Hats with brims swooped down, and we saw that some of their crowns were peaked like Chinese coolie hats. Coolie capelines and coolie berets. It is the new Far Eastern influence that has come via Paris to bring romance to the western world. Watch for it in fashions. a a a ana On With the Show QO much motion was bound to stir up a lot of noise. Even above the k * rioting of prints we heard the swish of taffeta fa phenomenon possible m the fashion world). Taffeta coats over woolen frocks. Tartan taffeta blouses. Quilted taffeta Jackets. Taffeta dresses with taffeta jackets. There still is plenty of action—fashion could not go on without it— In the copy quarters where Paris originals are being toned down into ready to wear. But the big storm is over, not without leaving its disturbing effect on clothes for spring. What looked like a chaos of creating has already crystallized into trends. Trends that hold enough variety within themselves to satisfy every woman’s desire for individuality. We’re ready for the dress rehearsal for the big Easter parade. Cameras—action!

Variety of Ensembles

f'VUR first model has ensembled her Easter costume with a fox-trimmed coat. Not just an ordinary coat with the expected fur treatment, but a navy blue coat of tree-bark woollen, with a collar which swirls into revers (the ripple caused by the wind). She knows what costumes that blow forward should have hats that dip forward, too. So she dons Patou’s streamline hat that projects over the eyes in front, swoops up to a broad finish at the back. Second in line, but second to none in fashion importance, is the spring suit, with a real Easter bonnet that allows you flower trimming once again.

There is no hard and fast rule about the length of suit coats this season. Some jackets stop short at the waistline, or a few inches below'. Others end at the hipbone, and still others may be three-quarters in length, belted or hanging straight and loose like the suit fashion sketched on this page. Navy Cedar Bark You'll like it best in navy cedar bark—a grand straited woollen—with which to contrast fresh white or palest pink or blue. Notice that girlish white collar of white moire tyes, it’s dctacthablei, those buttons which stop with the yoke, those frightfully smart lattice work pockets. A perfect compromise between the dressmaker suit and the tailored one. This suit may also be found in byige or brown. The little direc'foire tricorn is softened with pastel forget-me-nots at either side of the upturned brim. Printed Dress Hearing about taffeta is seeing it in the crisp taffeta jacket costume sketched second from the right. Lots of motion here, too, in perky revers, front fullness in the jacket and skirt. A tiny arrow print is used for the top of the frock and as cuffs for the jacket to give the whole an ensemblcd appearance. Alpaca straw in a modified shovel brim version is a smart choice for a hat to wear with taffeta costumes. Now, about that printed dress and jacket shown at the extreme right.

***ovv oieevcs piece, but are actually one-piece, offer a groat deal of chic for the This blouse has short sleeves, : strept costume - with its matching plaid net flo An<l if you *, ant to , bp dramati , c for the lapel, its matching hai v\ in vour ensembling, choose a stark \ ... W X white dress to wear beneath a ls meant to dress II P the alk black coat - They will look im ‘ HGfttweight woolen suit for af -, 8/^/ portant for afternoon wear now, and noon occasions. It costs less t i ' /’ in the summertime the white dress $5 and ls wprth degrees off / - will look very smart indeed by it- for t^e cocktail hour end hanky will dres> Idne. suggested the vp a suit for tin pastel blouse and hat S cocktail hour. Wear sketched left. Above, the milan straw checked fabric gloves eoohe hat, and ex- and boutonniere to enpect to be stared at. | liven dark tailleurs.

These fashions were sketched in New York shops especially for The India no polls Ti m es.

We meant to show it next to the fox-trimmed coat, because they go so well together. It is a floral pattern with just enough white in it. Pleated frills of the print outline an enlarged jabot, which is somehow fastened to the V neckline to accent both the shoulder and the bodice. It is sufficiently dressy to wear for afternoon, yet not too complicated to wear all day long beneath a spring coat. Later you will want to wear the cape jacket and let it flv backwards after Vionnet. Two fresh white carnations conceal fastenings to keep it on. The youthful brimmed hat repeats the white contrast in its upturned brim. About the Redingnte In addition to the four ensemble ideas sketched you will want to consider the redingote. Designers have given the coat and dress, meant for each other, a fresh emphasis this spring. You can And checked taffeta frocks underneath black wool coats that are lined with the fabric of the frock. You can find sprightly printed crepe dresses beneath bright velveteen coats, the latter unlined so that they can serve other frocks as well. Redingote dresses, tha look twopiece, but are actually one-piece, offer a great deal of chic for the street costume. And if you w r ant to be dramatic in your ensembling, choose a stark white dress to wear beneath a black coat. They will look important for afternoon wear now, and in the summertime the white dress will look very smart indeed by itself.

Rippled re- | A tailored Listen for In div i duality in versos azure -f suit with just the swish of printed ensembles is blue dyed fox Sm the right taffeta in crisp hard to flnd. The one enhance a coat m ) amov n t of new jacket sketched below has an of navy tree dressmaker dresses sketch- important looking bark woollen 'Wtrc touches sketch- ed below. dress, as you can see sketched right. jr €< * by the smaller sketch

Rippled revers of azure blue dyed fox enhance a coat of navy tree bark woollen sketched right.

Plaid Net Blouses in Pastel Windblown Frill Front Is Featured Smart Shops Show Hats to Match. T>LOUSES had to do a lot of sprinting to catch up with all the suit fashions that present themselves before ensemble gatherers this spring. Especially when they had to stop for bows and jabots that would carry the spring idea of motion into accessories. They've caught the spirit of the street suits, afternoon suits yet, evening suits, too —with which they are to be worn.

From Mainbocher comes one of the smartest blouse fashions of the season, plaid net with the windblown frill front, like the blouse shown at the extreme left of the accessory group at the bottom of the page. Short Sleeves This blouse has short sleeves, and with its matching plaid net flower for the lapel, its matching hanky, it is meant to dress up the silk or lightweight woolen suit for afternoon occasions. It costs less than $5 and is worth degrees of flattery for the cocktail hour. The dark blouse, which was a big thing last spring, has been carried over for this season. Only the styles are just enough different to make last year’s one seem out of date. We saw a very smart black organdy blouse, strictly tailored with a pleated bosom that somebody smart is going to wear with a natural linen suit, come summer. Navy Blue for Gloves If you want to do the newest thing, chrose your blouse in pale blue or pale pink—and match it

THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES

with a hat and perhaps a bag tor the navy suit. It is being done in the smartest shops, from which you can take your cue. The choice of w'hich pastel to follow is up to you. One Fifth avenue shop decrees, “Navy w-ith pale blue,” and right across the street another shop says. “Navy with strawberry pink.” Neither has the monopoly on the ideas, both of which have Paris backing. I Sketched second from the left of i the accessory group is a strawberry | pink blouse of moss crepe and hat I to match. The blouse has the new | lower neckline finished with a bow’ and short sleeves. There’s a smart dull look to the pink ..corded felt hat enscmbled with ! this blouse, very new looking, finished w'ith a band of navy grosgrain. There is a danger of overdoing this pastel contrast for daytime suits. Leave well enough alone and stick to navy blue for your gloves, shoes and bag for the rest of the ensemble. The same holds good for pale blue. This does not mean that the pastel shades can not be introduced in accessories other than blouses and hats. We found an adorable corday bag in paink, blue or yellow, shaped like a flower pot with a jewelry handle that would be worth foregoing a pastel accent in another part of the costume. For the Cocktail Hour Look for a val lace and net blouse to wear with a silk suit for the cocktail hour. We saw one ensembled "Case" with a navy crepe bag. truly feminine with its rhinestone clasp, and a foolish but interesting hat in net with a halo finished in plastered curl effects. When you do not expect to take off the jacket of your suit, a stunning scarf is all you need to add softness to the neckline. Ask to see the lovely new organza scarfs in plaid with metal threads highlighting their patterns. They are fresh imports and quite the most enchanting accessory that we have seen.

A tailored suit with just the right amo vn t of dress m aker touches sketched left.

Close-vp of frock that belongs to the ensemble right above, showing details that make it fashionably right.

Foot Lights

T T EEL, toe —one, two, three trips the theme of spring fashion footwear. Heels low-, and smartly so, for walking. Heels built up, but trim and tailored for general wear. Heels high and dainty for afternoon costumes. Toes rounded and nonscuffable for walking. Discreetly decorated with perforations, cut-outs, or pipings for dressmaker costumes. Peeping toes for dress-up sandals. Rough leathers, laced and perforated for surface interest, are the favorites for tweed costumes. Kidskins and fabrics, frequently combined with patent leather, popular choices for Easter parrades.

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Listen for the swish of taffeta in crisp new jacket dresses sketched below.

Foundations Vari-Styled Ideal Wardrobe Has Two for Daytime, One for Sports and One for Evening Wear. fj'OUNDATIDN garments are not accessories to be quickly dismissed with “Oh, well, what does not show can not be very important..’’ Even the slip of a girl who cares what shape her outer garments present will see to it that her figure is molded by a firm foundation, one that lifts the bust high, flattens the diaphragm, tucks the tummy in, and holds the hips firm.

Instead of making one girdle serve a whole wardrobe until it has stretched its last garter, she invests in a foundation wardrobe that includes two garments for daytime, a lightweight sports girdle, and for evening, a more elaborate all-in-one. Washings Beneficial Because of the improved lastex construction to be found in the modern type of foundation parments their shape can be preserved rather than destroyed by frequent washings. We have talked about the lastex pantie girdle and brassiere for active sports wear. But for wear beneath daytime costumes with their high fitted 'waistlines, their profile silhouettes that call attention to smooth hiphnes, we suggest the separate girdle, built up high in the front, and a brassiere that lifts the bust high. l T p Front, Down Back Now comes a girdle that is especially cut to stay up in front; down in back. You can see the unusual cutting of this garment, in the sketch at the lower right hand corner of this page. It is made of crepe de chine and lastex—up and down stretch panel at the back, side to side stretch over the thighs, ever so slightly boned over the diaphragm. The halfway brassiere recently

Individ ?/ ality in printed ensembles is hard to find. The one sketched below has an important looking dress, as you can see by the smaller sketch below the main group of sketches.

sponsored a pretty shocking idea in bandeaux, and few find it really wearable. That is why the designers have now' covered the upper half with net, allowing the lower half of crepe and net to produce an uplifting effect, and the upper part to accent the pointed bust line Better Fastening Another bandeau improvement which sounds trivia], but really isn’t to you who have an aversion to jutting fastenings, is a flat link which replaces the usual hook and eye or button at the back. Girlish figures are taking to light weight girdles of two-way stretch lastex shown in pastel colors. They can now find crepe bandeaux to match in pale blue, yellow, peach or green. Color is everything. For years we have been content w-ith the old-fashioned type of garters. Now r in one season, at least

three new* kinds of flat fastenings have been patented and attached to well-made corsets.

How Docs Wind Blow for You? ASK yourself this question before you leap into the wrong clothes. Try on the new suits —the short jackets, the hip-length jackets, the threequarter length jackets—to determine which length is mast becoming. Don’t let a Paris label wheedle your purse if you don't feel right in the creation it identifies. Remember you have a choice of off-the-face hats or dip-down-over - the - eye hats. Choase the one that does the most for you. Avoid heavy fabrics and conspicuous trimmings if you are Junoesque, insist on sheers and subtle draping instead. By the same premise, petite women should not allow their daintiness to be swamped by overlarge bows, huge brimmed hats, or over-grown handbags. It's an ill wind that blows nobody good. The wind of fashion blows enough good for everybody, this spring. But it is up to you to recofnize it.

PAGE 19

Coolie Beret Joins March' of Bonnets Individuality Marks All Easter Hats This Year. WE have been laboring under the delusion that fashion works in cycles; that fundamental changes do not happeen suddenly; that when skirt lengths are short for daytime one season we can be pretty sure they will stay close to the same hemline for seven seasons; that hats pivot from the top of the head, from way forward, to straight back a little, way back, and then the whole silly business starts ail over again. Thpn how, we ask you. do you account for all the current contra- : dictions in hats? Maybe you were one of us who | had decided to grin and bear the off-the-face bonnets. And when you entered the millinery salon to claim yours they showed you shovel brims instead. Flattery in Common The latest bulletin acknowledges the eastern influence in Chinese coolie berets and milan cartwheels with coolie crowns. Add these to the Russian headdress silhouette, the Dutch bonnets, the Directoire tricorns, the hundred and one versions of th& Breton sailor, the flower caps, the pirate felts and the New England cloche, and you do not know any more about what to expect in this spring’s Easter parade than do the mad milliners themselves. There are a few- things this league of nations has in common. A predilection for trimmings—ribbons, flowers, fruit, feathers. A preference for trims. Straws in old and new weaves. Flattery! Beyond this they refuse to sign any pact for all of us to follow'. Thank the milliners for individuality in Easter bonnets! East Meets West We challenge you to determine where the crowm stops and the brim begins of the newest coolie hat, sketched at the lower left hand corner of this page. It doesn’t really matter once East meets West in the right person. A band of velvet ribbon is ail that keeps this shallow circle of black milan on the head. But a sheer veiling protects the hat, and ripples out beyond its edge. Beaux Arts geisha girls will wear it with Molyneux’s coolie coat—sloping shoulders, loose easy sleeves. And others w'ho would be first, with the new will adopt this newest brim silhouette for restaurant wear. Matching Accessories Easter hats make a point of matching accessories, repeating patterned fabrics, such as taffeta, or printed silks, in the crown of a wide brimmed sailor, a scarf, purse, or gloves, for the spring suit. A shiny b’ack straw sailor adopts a gold chain for a band that matches a stunning bracelet. We saw an off-the-face hat of natural rustic straw combined with black velvet, an unexpected contrast that was also carried to the straw bag with velvet flap, and to velvet gloves with flaring straw cuffs!

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Cut to stay the way all girdles should be worn—high in the front, low in the back, with lastex which stretches the right way in the right places. The halfway brassiere has now taken to net for the upper section.