Indianapolis Times, Volume 45, Number 276, Indianapolis, Marion County, 29 March 1934 — Page 11

MARCH 29, 1934

Tweed Takes Lead as Nucleus of Spring Sport Ensembles

Other Fabrics Made Similar to Favorite Light Woollens, Knit Materials Copy English Weaves —Linen Coat Used with Frock. By GEKTRL'DE BAILEY. LET’S look at the fashion lineup for the season’s sporting events. There’s tweed in Prince of Wales checks for a topcoat, monotone for a Norfolk tailleur. There’s knit that looks like tweed in a spectator sports ensemble. There’s jersey in bright colors and pastels. Pigskin jackets. Perforated chamois jackets. Full-length knitted coats in tweed designs. Harris tweed riding coats. Shadow plaids. A tew herringbones. Bright tweed monotones. It looks as il tweed is in the lead! Already the lightweight w r oollens, the knitted fabrics and the more tailored printed crepes are beginning tc look like tweed, too, as if to concede its leadership, at the same time claiming extra softness and lighter weight. • • • Variety in the Classification. 'T’HERE is already, goodness knows, variety aplenty within the tweed classification You can find robust, tightly woven tweeds, as the British like them, and pretty good copies in the less expensive domestic weaves. You can find loosely woven tweeds like those that Schiaparelli uses. Or lighter-weight tweeds in subdued patterns and subtle tailoring for town. You can, indeed, be ladylike almost to the point of being birdlike, or you can be as athletic as all outdoors invites, and clothe both parts of your life in the moss fashionable iabric in sportswear. Other sports fabrics will owe their success this season to their ability to imitate or ensemble with the leader. Molyneux, for example, mounts a tweed patterned linen coat over a pastel jersey frock—an idea that will take hold if for no other reason than its resemblance to the popular linen duster of last season. Two-piece knitted frocks in bright colors or neutrals iollow as a natural choice to wear under patterned tweed' topcoats. Bright Shirtwaist Frocks Persist. JgRIGHT crepe shirtwaist frocks will persist for the same reason. And so will twin sweaters (tweed plaid cardigans have put in an appearance). hat and scarf sets oi tweed yarn, jersey blouses, dark linen shirtwaist blouses, crisp pique ones, tartan taffeta scarfs, doeskin gloves, leather belts, tweed pouches and wooden jewelry. \Tr.rP ofvnif in n ron a .

More about accessories in a separate ur.icle. We suggest them here Just to prove how much fun ensembling the sports wardrobe can be with tweed as the backbone. This brings up the question of color, now expected to find its clearest and brightest expression in outdoor clothes. But here is where fashion does the unexpected. Instead of attempting to outshine nature in full bloom the newest sportswear pays a compliment to her by flaunting plenty of neutrals. Slate gray dons a brown and white checked taffeta scarf and a brown woollen coat that looks like Harris tweed in three-quarter length. Gray takes to yellow, again to vivid green, to black or to navy Reds, greens, blues and yellows are more frequency plaided or flecked against the lighter beige or gray background (oatmeal or hominy this trip) than spread boldly over tlie entire costume. In the sixth column story you wi I find a detailed description of the sports costumes sketched in the main group. We like to think they will suggest ensembling ideas, if not direct solutions, for your new season's sporting wardrobe.

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The lastex pantie girdle and brassiere reduce under - P‘ nnings for active sportswear to the minimum. Their Cost is next to nothing, too.

u ere are the kind of golf shoes that you won't want to leave in the locker. Read more about their claims to sport fume in the next colU 111 Tl

The smart shoe for spectator sports—which means O. A', for tweed suits in town — is the one-strap model sketched above , featuring Perforations for trimming , u leather heel for walking ,

Heralding the Easter parade, there is another parade in progress—that of shoppers to Indianapolis stores. If there were no other sign of better times, the increased shopping would be sufficient proof that a more prosperous era is in the making. Sharing in the better business are department stores, milliners, florists, and beauticians.

ICS Made fTT- c l lored Jlliisil tu, h#h* /Jlsmla Riding Habit knitted jacket cos- \ jacket which the importance of the fumes take on bright allows action ensemble idea, a plain * T7o 11 o in T inn H ELVOIfI l 6 accents in scarf, F** pleats at the and a patterned tweed 1 clllS 111 LAEIG 1 buttons, belt and hat, S back, adds meant to be used ; • 1 1 • for spectator sports warmth and M / together in the same ts* r, Wlfn pHS ll 1011 llteri-k Conv FnHidl *"**' "<• T interest ,o jt. Ml costume. A goad back. s* Willi 1 dSIUUII later “-U p. - glisil Ji j the two-piece i TT)" Jr*' ,f bone for any wardrobe. J t , . 0 , t Used with Frock. ' jersey frock or Accents on Stocks, sup for the season’s sporting center. Add Comfort. Wales checks for a topcoat, \ ■ ’ OXK0 XK doesn’t look for changes ur. There’s knit that looks /' ymM'Wm j l \ Hi A in riding fashions, which ts ensemble. There’s jersey f J*r?W, W Lfr k l tfy f- I \ IfV JMSTO?' the equestrienne world will Pigskin jackets. Perforated / CjJrj l ) W{ f *’ > tcll * vou are classic, while and coats in tweed designs. Harris / ({if f? s‘s / JjW 4 i S tMJr * l l ' ,\ 'lf>|§v’ i V* handing you a book of etiA lew herringbones. Bright tweed J| J *9/ j ,£ : w [NKN? . quette slated to scare the most >g th tc I T^ ed like br twec a d nd tS e as°if {J. i\ : i . W* B I ring even the most e time claiming extra softness and . '* f i to^hang^hoTOVMWi btte. to'briS , variety' aplenty within the tweed 1 ,>*' Jf" > k \ . ’ / No, there will be emblazon>ust, tightly woven tweeds, as the \ ■] •***„. . \ mem oi color contrasts, such ai •pies in the less expensive domestic ( o ' t , l*~** n ** t *‘ \ v : - v was attempted a few seasons ago, tweeds like those that Schiaparelli * }'*/•'.\ \ f* M x? .. N t but there will be color accents adued patterns and subtle tailoring | h.'- krtr \\ *>; / Wf 4 ”%. • jMUsF £■& smartly introduced in printed silk If 1 I. 'i F* V s stocks, fashioned of tie silk patterns, st to the point of being birdlike, or and, . ' A. I • JPTI Lutes on Breeches, ors invites, and clothe both parts f £ 0 / Umt "N ' The sketch below will tell you fabric in sportswear. 4 '? f A r>-., s fj£ / Im ffipK l J A / ' ■ ,4 what to wear for informal canters. • success this season to their ability \ ; % ; *l. *' Ffl Wk There is news in the riding astef'jersc^^froek 1 ' V 7 & breeches. This is because last ex has an its resemblance to the popular N- ' m * S \ ’ twill. These cost $12.1)4. e /# v Harris type tweeds remain the tai — 1 TfLZ’aSJ’ 1 ' X ' Log# Tweedy ' H#' . Bowlers Join Hat Parade Outfits in Tailored Theme 1 s^fesmWßgi' like silks, cottons that look like: XJt a ivTfrdS. wool, and synthetic fabrics that * * * fclfsP | Squarish Crown Pinched Down-Newest Sil- Two-Piece Idea Popular —Color and Fabric ttTt&NNNfp&X* ~ houette at Its Best in Felt. S cs a . ut uS“SaS Interest Runs High. WfM %ss£ssss?£& “Who said knits couldn’t look like fj? jgfmafa ir* \ pASHION has thrown the English bowler Into the hat rlt* Just In E!att- Parls dcslgncr cports clothes come closer to expressing Junctional design in fashion I Ii / ’ if \ 1 time to near all the cheering on the part of fedora fans. knitwear, answers the question in >3 , han any othcr 0 , mQde> becaa, the designers- P 3T , / . jfJ' \ \l This newest hat silhouette, at its best in felt, is shown on the en- handknit town clothes that feature ... f . . ~. ... % ® \ .. .......... u . ’ . , ’ . , diacronal striryps of dark soft green man y of them outdoor enthusiasts—knew whereof they’create, but more f $ / 1 arged head sketched above. And when glamorous ladies display this new diagonal stripes oi aa. k, sou green ........ . If < f,■ A- // ... . .. . , . . , wool yarn and w r hite cotton. probably Decause all wearers of sports clothes demand pure line, plenty ‘ • f : / .3-, Jfr // :reation and its elfect with a colorful costume the whole feminine nation And in New York Emmy Wylie 0 f color and fabric interest and no fol-de-rols *{ /J- '/ jr ivill wear it. For it does flattering things. receives fashion recognition as the These are the claims . The original squarish crown has?> newest American designer (there .... . . ....... i -‘M ' 3d f Deen pinched down a bit at the I are likely to be others before we go of the two-piece jersey and rib-knit wi j] s p ade the eyes and confuse the I M y g 0$ ;d"cs, but the brim curls up just the ! ldca . wh,ch arrsved there one flight to press—they’re springing up all frock worn with a pigskin jacket, other players It costs $7.50. I > JCf - same at the sides really much more j earlier—consisting of nuts and bolts, around) who handles the tried and shown on the center figure above. The spectator seated at the ex- : / f' intriguing above a softly curled coif- win^s > Propellers and such fixed up true yarns with a light touch. The two-piece idea allows for plenty treme left is wearin g a novelty knit ! % MM / lure than Clark Gable’s ears. | as nn S s * bracelets, necklaces and; Her collection is well worth see- P I C ® 1 „ “ , * \ZTI J in gray set off with a brilliant || We place the derby first in the P ms - I ing and includes models priced at 01 swin g in the arms that wield a green scarf (attached to the jacket). >: WW list ot important accessory arrivals y to $39.75. You will like solt club, tbe brignt coral sbade of and lcatlicr buttons. The complete 1' for sports costumes. Terribly smart s ~ v a tweed mixture called “Frost- j the jersey forms a lively contrast to costume costs $32.75. Her hat is % \ Iwb in soft black felt, banded and bound \ knit.” Citron is a grand color; t jj e natural colored pigskin jacket knitted, toe, with a metal ring in- .. ; k % n • , with grosgrain. Cost. $10.50. SmMKL \that borders on antique gold, simple, gay, comfortable, thi goif uced f a u cc . ent and a ®eans of I W | llarn , S twe * d * Scarfs and Gloves. M Smart Wlth naVy contrast - dress costs $19.95. costs^o" 11 ° D ° n ® j J. tn ,Wund s Chanel’s checked taffeta big bow sos' Chic in Pigskin. Walking°fnto the picture at the /f ® r scarf with gloves to match are worth / N The pigskin Jacket, to be found at extreme right to claim its rightful sfe-lfc. flHi blanket efteefti seekincr out to eive a suit a townish / $12.95, produces the same warmth place in the sports classic is the W3L ■ bring anew stetvin 0 out to give a suit a towmsn as other leather ones, but has a lot three-piece tweed suit, with a tall- ® look to classic caic - 7 more chic ’ A brimmed felt hat in ored silk shirt blouse. rtdiuf coats. A casual fashion that you will be j .• brown tailored to sport specifications, Suit Variations. We didn't * ovais. br zTmadfo? ning styles, too. We have sketched a^* - **^/>'•. / /v ./ x /.““ . _ *“ y r ~ n ., n t rn #„.;// ; for golf Like the first ion- iv' used t£eth e r ta the saml costume hacked bv' ; f 1| ' Elastic Golf Shoe. jrom tneoroun earin F WJt&r \% the topcoat. stepped into The golf shoe is worth special " s , N w s: f' ea . 'sKfOS£j /Vy There are any number of varia- sans fastenings. ~ta W&X rfzjj J mention. It boasts a tucked Instep and brown chamois tta to this theme, tnchldtns the Issi ’rtf ,f| .. . . . .. . vest herald the new y T ,4|n checked jacket, which suggests the su iwJ/ which conceals elastic goring, mak- season. / patterned waistcoat, the plain skirt Ujpsy fastener finished with a small Kil- Blair bor - Man Tailorine Preferred.

Bowlers Join Hat Parade Squarish Crown Pinched Down—Newest Silhouette at Its Best in Felt. has thrown the English bowler Into the hat ring, just in time to hear all the cheering on the part of fedora fans. This newest hat silhouette, at its best in felt, is shown on the enlarged head sketched above. And when glamorous ladies display this new creation and its elfect with a colorful costume the whole feminine nation will wear it. For it does flattering things.

The original squarish crown has* been pinched down a bit at the edges, but the brim curls up just the same at the sides, really much more intriguing above a softly curled coiffure than Clark Gable's ears. We place the derby first In the list ot important accessory arrivals for sports costumes. Terribly smart in soft black felt, banded and bound with grosgrain. Cost, $10.50. Scarfs and Gloves. Chanel’s checked taffeta big bow scar! with gloves to match are worth seeking out to give a suit a townish chic. A casual fashion that you will be glad to own later in the season is a fingertip-length, loose swinging coat of homespun in natural color. It costs $5.95. This was even worn as an evening wrap in Florida. Low-heeled shoes, unquestionably ! the correct choice for sports clothes, | are influencing afternoon and eve- ■ ning styles, too. We have sketched two new sports styles, one especially designed for golf, the other for spectator wear. Elastic Golf Shoe. The golf shoe is worth special mention. It boasts a tucked instep which conceals elastic goring, making it easy to slip on; a Talon slide fastener finished with a small Kiltie tongue, a non-scuff able toe, dampproof soles and a leather heel tipped with rubber. What more could one ask in one pair of sports shoes? These cost $3.50 a pair. The spectator shoe shown at the bottom of the panel illustrates the vogue for perforations and the continued smartness of the one-strap. Jewelry, generally speaking, is not worn with sport costumes except for the large link bracelets, scarf pins which serve to keep the parts together in a mildly decorative way. The next non-stop flight from Paris will b’ing us aviation jewelry—an

Neutral colored knitted jacket costumes take on bright accents in scarf, buttons, belt and hat, for spectator sports wear, sketched right.

idea which arrived there one flight earlier -consisting of nuts and bolts, j wings, propellers and such fixed up as rings, bracelets, necklaces and pins. I

— cl. lUU Will ime o v -'*- k '-**'**-' ouauc N s tweed mixture called “Frost- ; the jersey forms a lively contrast to vy. -' HL . x is a g J and Co \°J the natural colored pigskin jacket. C'lsr that borders on antique go.d, simple, gay, comfortable, this golf '0 smart with navy contrast. dress costs $19.95, •" —— $12.9*5, produces the same warmth / v as other leather ones, but has a lot nrllfc. -”■ more chic. A brimmed felt hat in MnummiMjm—, from the brownearth A smart belt for fdfhions a jaunty tweed suit and a detach - brimmed hat and able leash and match - * scarf, sketched ing collar for your dog. above.

Like the first jonquil which springs from the brown earth this yellow sweater and brown chamois vest herald the new season.

A smart belt for your tweed suit and a detach • able leash and match • ing collar for your dog.

Xot within recent years has there been a more tempting array of apparel. Suits and coats abound in interesting desig-ns and details. And that question of questions at this time of year—- “ What is the right Easter hat?”—is easier to answer correctly in this spring of 1934- than has been the case in many years.

Twisted Scarfs. in scarf etiquette. The method of knotting or twisting or wrapping the throat is an all-im-portant factor in individualizing a sports costume. The simplest method is probably knotting the fabric once around the throat like a handkerchief. Longer scarfs should be rolled and twisted—not folded—around the neck with the ends hanging loose. Still others are knotted Ascot fashion and worn inside the jacket. Some silk handkerchiefs are seen in plaid patterns, folded three-cornered around uie neck and held with a sports pin (one of those huge safety pins) or a long golf club, tennis .-acket, or bottle opener in silver.

Town Clothes in Knit Fabrics ■ Look * Tweedy FASHION dotes on confusing us! by bringing out wools that look like silks, cottons that look like , wool, and synthetic fabrics that ! look like a little bit of both. Then, just when we think we can write authoritatively about the new fabrics, she raises the question, “Who said knits couldn’t look like tweeds?” Anny Blatt, Paris designer of knitwear, answers the question in handknit town clothes that feature diagonal stripes of dark, soft green wool yarn and white cotton. And in New York Emmy Wylie i receives fashion recognition as the newest American designer (there are likely to be others before we go to press—they're springing up all around) u r ho handles the tried and true yarns with a light touch. Her collection is well worth seei ing and includes models priced at $22.75 to $39.75. You will like a tweed mixture called “Frostknit.” Citron is a grand color ..\ that borders on antique gold, -r.'; smart with navy contrast.

Jane Blair borrowed the Prince of Wales plaid for the tailored shirt of cotton flannel-

THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES

This pigskin jacket, which allows action pleats at the back, adds warmth and interest to the two-piece jersey frock of brighter hue, sketched center .

Oil trits m Tailored Theme Two-Piece Idea Popular Color and Fabric Interest Runs High. gPORTS clothes come closer to expressing functional design in fashion than any other part of Hie mode, perhaps because the designers—many of them outdoor enthusiasts—know whereof they ’create, but more probably because all wearers of sports clothes demand pure line, plenty of color and fabric interest and no fol-de-rols.

ihese are the claims to smartness< of the two-piece jersey and rib-knit frock worn with a pigskin jacket, shown on the center figure above. The two-piece idea allows for plenty of swing in the arms that wield a golf club, the bright coral shade of the jersey forms a lively contrast to the natural colored pigskin jacket. Simple, gay, comfortable, this golf dress costs $19.95. Chic in Pigskin. The pigskin Jacket, to be found at $12.95, produces the same warmth as other leather ones, but has a lot more chic. A brimmed felt hat in brown tailored to sport specifications,

The right hat is the one that becomes you most, fashion experts agree. Halo brims, off-the-t'ace models and wide brims—the one most suitable to your type will be one fashion approves. The variety in hats provides opportunity for a wide range of coiffures. And while at the beauty shop, thought should be given to coynplexion needs.

Plaid sudanette fdfhi ons a jaunty brimmed hat and scarf, sketched above.

The suit and topcoat sketched right show the importance of the ensemble idea, a plain and a patterned tweed meant to be used together in the same costume. A good backbone for any wardrobe.

These fashions were sketched in New York shops especially for the Indianapolis Times.

will shade the eyes and confuse the other players It costs $7.50. The spectator seated at the extreme left is wearing a novelty knit jacket in gray set off with a brilliant green scarf (attached to the jacket), and leather buttons. The complete costume costs $32.75. Her hat is knitted, toe, with a metal ring introduced as accent and a means ox holding the brim up on one side. This hat costs $5.50. Walking into the picture at the extreme right to claim its rightful place in the sports classic is the three-piece tweed suit, with a tailored silk shirt blouse. Suit Variations. From the point of view of Investment tins type of costume should receive the greatest emphasis of all, for in the tailored suit and topcoat you have the makings of at least half a dozen different outfits. This one illustrates the importance of the ensemble idea, a plain and a patterned tweed meant to be used together in the same costume. Here the monotone is used for the jacket suit, the checked tweed for the topcoat. There are any number of variations to this theme, including the checked jacket, which suggests the patterned waistcoat, the plain skirt and topcoat. Man Tailoring Preferred. Just as many variations appear in the styling of this type of ensemble, really surprising when you consider that each and every one of them still keeps the tailored theme. There is the double-breasted reefer topcoat with the doublebreasted suit beneath, the singlebreasted topcoat with the Norfolk jacket suit, the topcoat with a vent or without it, revers wide or narrow as you prefer them. We liked the wide choice of colors too that this man-tailored tweed ensemble offers. If you never wear the bright silk shirt that comes with it this ensemble will still be a good investment at $39.75.

We didn't forget to show the buttons above the boots of these riding breeches. They are made of cavalry twill . backed by lastex, to be stepped into sans fastenings.

Tweeds Even Go for Evening

CTRIP a wardrobe down to essentials, and w.iat have you? Our guess is sport clothes. Else, why have designers repeatedly transferred shirtwaist silhouettes and the tailored suit theme to more elegant fabrics in an effort to interest you in bigger and more costly wardrobes? If you are so attached to knitted dresses, say tijey, well give you dressy models for cocktails and dinner. You can find them this

Os more than passing interest this spring, is the inccrease in home dressmaking, as attested by increased sales in dress goods departments. Ao small pari of the home seamstresses are engaged in knitting, which is showing a marked revival. Every fashion show has attracted larger attendance than has been the case in the recent past.

Riding Habit Falls in Line with Fashion Color Accents on Stocks, Lastex on Breeches Add Comfort. doesn’t look for changes in riding fashions, which the equestrienne world will tell you are classic, while handing you a book of etiquette slated to scare the most enthusiastic amateur from getting on a horse. But in the spring even the most tried and tested formulas give way to change, however subtle, to bring the accepted habitr up A season and whet your puses into buying Sbme brand new toggery No, there will be no emblazonment oi color contrasts, such a was attempted a few seasons ago, but there will be color accents smartly introduced in printed silk stocks, fashioned of tie silk patterns. Lastex on Breeches. The sketch below will tell you what to wear for informal canters. There is news in the riding breeches. This is because lastex has been woven on the back of cavalry twill. These cost $12.94. Harris type tweeds remain the Xavorite fabric for riding coats. Hound’s tooth check looks like any other check to us, but maybe the horse will appreciate the difference. It costs $15.74. Horse blanket checks are new and kindred. Heather tweeds are being shown, too. Detachable Collars. From England comes the newest idea in shirts with detachable collars. giving their wearers a choice of stock or tie and collar. We liked z vest of perforated c If, around $5, and gloves to match, around $4. Alternating the shirt and tie. or printed stock and shirt formulas, are turtle neck sweaters, flannel open neck shirts. Cro.vden cotton shirts, and one v**ry good looking white chamois shirt.

Harris tweeds in hound's tooth or horse blanket checks bring anew look to classic riding coats.

j spring decorated with Beauvais embroidery, two-toned, and in iacy patterns. One of the smartest and youngest evening dresses we have seen this season employed fragile lace ! to interpret the instep length ver- | sion of the shirtwaist frock. Madame Schiaparelli, the Italian I girl who makes French clothes s j dear to the hearts of Americans, ha : gone in for a lot of English twi-eds. She uses a rayon Pddefer for both , evening and day dresses. Get that?

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