Indianapolis Times, Volume 40, Number 253, Indianapolis, Marion County, 12 March 1929 — Page 11

Second Section

Variety in Sty les Is Amazing Individuality Is Urged as First Thought in Dress Choice. Easter clothes mean much more than mere personal pleasure to the Glrl-With-A-Job. They are a real business asset to her and should be considered as an Inveir-ment. Therefore, the better her choicp of clothes, the sounder the hold she has on the ladder of success. This is true especially of the business and professional girl in the $35 to SSO a week class. She is apt to be a secretary, teacher, highpowered saleswoman, assistant to some important personage. As such, her personal appearance is apt to be a deciding factor in the decision of whether she gets the job higher up. Individuality is the first principle she should follow in selecting her clothes. Os course they must be appropriate and suited to the ba< kground in w'hich they arc worn. But this girl just must not look like every one else in her place of work! Three entirely different types of costumes for Easter are suggested that promise individuality. One gets it by cut, another by color, the third by fabric and fashioning. For the business girl a jaunty tan tweed coat is cut raglan sleeved and emphasizes the fact by inserting a half-inch slot seeming of the flat fur that fashions the front and collar ,of the coat. This coat has inverted pleats from the belt dowr., on both hips and the cuffs are unusually deep and flaring. Felt Hat Is Best Topping this, a felt and ballibuntl hat, with the ballibuntl crown seamed in deep brown is an especially good choice. Modish threeeyelet oxfords in dark brown are a 'fine accessory. For the teacher, colors are extremely important, for children love to admire Her-Who-Instructs-Them. Dark, dismal colors can throw' a whole room into depression, w'hile yellow's, pinks, lavenders and pretty blues can make the children laugh. An extremely pretty choice for spring is a gray coat trimmed with shaved caracul, w'ith a little gray pleated flat crepe skirt and one of the soft, novelty weave sweater blouses of slate blue.

Gun Metal Sandals Worn The felt hat is wisteria, and both the blue and the wisteria band the gray scarf that is one of the new long, slender ones that can be knotted on the shoulder or tied in a bow in front. For wear with this outfit, a pair of the new gun' metal wide-strap sandals with high-low heels is excellent. For the assistant who wants the .lob higher up, something with charming dignity and richness, as well as becomingness is to be found in the faille silk and foulard ensemble, with fox collar. Ensemble Is Exquisite An exquisite ensemble that features horizontal pleating for its trim is a black ensemble with the long tunic of chartreuse and black handprinted silk. The frock has a batteau neck, flaring long sleeves and is belted with a sash of self material. A skirt of the faille drops below the tunic. Perfect for topping this smart ensemble is a black baku hat with a pleated brim that swings down the back of the neck line like the modish curtain drop model.

RED BORDERS NEW BLOUSE

With a short coat and skirt of coral jersey is shown an over-blouse of white jersey on which are stitched narrow bar ds of the red as a border around the bottom and a bowknot at the neck. Jackets of scarlet flannel and cloth in the “pink” shade hunters wear are worn with white crepe skirts trimmed with bands of the cloth, and with sweaters of a knitted material or crepe, with tucking or drawn-work. This combination is equally effective with a coat of jade or hunter's green, and skirt and blouse of some white material. Gloves Shown in Groups The new gloves now offered for wear with the latest spring frocks and ensembles are being featured in groups so that they may be selected for particular purposes. For instance, those for wear with the simple sports suits for daytime tailored dresses are in one group, while those for formal afternoon are in another. Evening gloves are shown, too. Despite what is being said against them they are none the less being worn by many smart women. Jacket Is Gay Novelty _ A gay novelty is a short jacket of scarlet \ elvet worn with a skirt of white orepe and white overblouse. Red in several shades will be very fashionable foi sports, especially when the material is of jersey or crepe. It is also used prominently in the new Rodier fabrics. These are made in different weaves, one of which is particularly attractive, a soft, fine and firm weave with a narrow' fancy stripe. Ensemble Coat Is Varied The coat, which is the tliird and often the fourth item in the sports ensemble, is unusually varied this season. Most of the models are short and many are without collars, having scarfs attached instead, and are finished down the front so as to be left open.

Full Leased Wire Service cf the United Press Association

‘JUST BE YOURSELF IS THE STYLE EXPERTS’ DECREE FOR EASTER

NEW SPRING MODES ARE FASHIONED FOR ELEGANCE AND INDIVIDUALITY

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BY JULIA BLANSHARD

CHIC sounds a clairion call to anew elegance in dregs this Easter. Mass production and blatant obviousness in styles are things of the past. Sut'le beauty, a romantic individualism for every woman of taste and a certain reserved picturesqueness blend now to give us a style atmosphere of formality and richness. For the woman of means who can afford to buy exactly what she w’ants, this new' elegance is a challenge to her personality and taste. No collective style can be named as “What They Will Be Wearing.” Each type of woman will decide that important question herself. However, certain lines are new, graceful and .receiving approval. The semi-fitted costume coat, the formal afternoon ensemble with princess lines, and slightly more length all around are trends of the fashion times. You Can Indulge That Low Flare Now Low flares are extremely good. The flared skirt is better than the straight and much is made of gores and godets. Svelt lines, with subtle curves and nares, are 1929's contribution to the return to femininity of post-war styles. Whether it is a suit, ensemble or frock and separate coat Milady picks for Easter, her accessories are fully as important as her costume. Hats this year are tremendously diverse in their styles. A woman of taste purchases only the hat that truly complements her costume. From amongst a wealth of luxurious Easter outfits I have selected six that demonstrate the range of elegance this spring. There is. a costume in this group for every part of the country, for every daytime wear Milady might wish and for many different types of women. For cold climes there is a formal coat and a formal little trotteur. For de luxe wearers there are two Parisian ensembles, one of silk, one

NEW CHOKER

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The three-skin baum marten choker takes precedence over the two-skin for spring. Cape Fits Over Shoulders Anew style of sports WTaps introduced at the Southern resorts is a cape that fits snugly over. the shoulders and hangs straight almost or quite to the bottom of thi skirt. It is made of any kind of material from the rough coatings to lightweight wcolens and crepe.

RAG OF A HAT

Agnes is still making her “rag 01 a hat.’* This time it is the bandanna hat made of anew Paris braid called summer kimmer in blue and white looped over one ear with two long ends lying on the cheek.

The Indianapolis Times

Molded Silhouette Mode for Spring Coats

BY FRANCES PAGET, (Copyright, 1929, by Style Sources) Bv United, Press NEW YORK, March 12.—Summarizing the varied treatments which contribute such great interest to spring coats, a prominent importer accents the molded silhouette, cape coats and flared movements concentrated at the side or back. These ■ ideas motivate separate coats, especially models designed for afternoon wear. Ensembles developed in lightweight tweeds frequently have three-quarter length cpats, which BOLERO IS REVIVED IN SPRING FASHIONS With jackets so much to the fore, it was inevitable that someone should revive that youthful type, the bolero, and Patou has done so with great success in several models in his early spring showing. One of these of crepe marocain, has a black blouse printed all over with cherries in bright red and green. Still another has a blouse of shrimp pink crepe de chine, with a finely pleated frill at one side. The wide belt of this suit is laced up the front, outlining the hips. There is a sharp line of demarcation drawn between the restaurant and theater costume and the formal dance dress, and the bride should have at least one evening dress with an accompanying jacket which may be worn with a hat if one desires. Lacquered lace, in a rosy beige shade, makes a charming ensemble of this description, with matching jacket and dress. CORSET SELECTION IMPORTANT MATTER Before going about the task of selecting the suits and dresses which go to make up the trousseau, the bride must pay a visit to the corset department. She must pay several, in fact, for ,she will need more than one foundation garment if her new frocks are to hang in the proper lines and be in accord with the correct silhouette. There are corsets for sport, corsets for street and afternoon and corsets for evening. Differing in color and fabric, they are agreed in molding the figures in those lines of apparently natural grace which j French fashions demand. The stiff, ungainly fabrics and I heavy bones which used to appear 'in corsets have disappeared completely.

INDIANAPOLIS, TUESDAY, MARCH 12, 1929

ANEW elegance pervades the mode for this year’s Easter costumes. (Left to right): A faw r n colored coat has a fitted silhouette, new sleeves and trims itself with black velvet. The purse is selfmaterial and hat and gloves match. French-like in its chic is the black suit w'ith ermine facings and a jabot blouse. The black-w r hite chapeau has a coral feather in it. A navy blue suit has unusual tuckings, a tri-color trim to its blouse and a ballibuntl hat to top it. Royal purple is a flat crepe frock that ties its tunic like a pinafore and ruffles its cuffs and skirt Its hat frames the face in feathers. The essence of luxury is expressed in a beige and black faille ensemble, with ruff collar and half sleeves of tucked black. Rich accessories include a brocaded purse, beige gloves and a black hat with beige flowers. For formal elegancd there is a black broadcloth princess ensemle ermine trimmed. Gardenias trim the hat and white kid gloves add their beauty.

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(Costumes and Accessories from Bruck-Weiss, N. Y.)

of w'ool that are the epitome of regal beauty and subtle styles. For a southern Easter there is a stunning silk suit and a ruffled frock and fur. A Triple Route to Newness The separate coat of fawn-colored pomella, cloth is new in three ways: It is princess; it has bell sleeves shaped into narrow cuffs; it is trimmed with black velvet. With this' coat Milady has her own pouch purse fashioned, of the matching material, with a handsome ebony frame. She wears slip-on French suede gloves, in fawn color and her hat with flaring back brim is of exactly matching felt. Two eyelet black suede dress oxfords add their bit. An imported trotteur is made of black French serge, with a godet in the front of the little yoked skirt, a white satin jabot blouse that tucks into the skirt and a hip-length jacket that does not fasten shut

also adopt flared movements to a great extent. Outstanding colors cited are navy and tan, with black of great importance. In addition, there is a •wide scattering of individual shades, sponsored by the various couture hou^ps. Fabrics quoted important by this same importer include reps, flat crepe and satin, appearing in coats which frequently have lavish trimmings of fur. Fox in various shades and galyak merit his specific emphasis. Describing silhouette ideas of importance in sports coats, another

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Very graceful is a shell-pink frock for early spring made in one piece, with French pleating inserts in the skirt and for the collar and cuffs that buckle shut. .

importer accents redingote lines, with high waistlines and embodying all-round flares. Dipped hemlines merit attention in this type of styling. Contrasting the silhouette innovations with the straightline coats, he regards the models shown by Maggy Rouff as especially interesting. In these coats, the collar attracted most attention, styled on wide lines, in the manner of a capeletshawl, while the basic coat silhouette was straight. Fabrics cited in this connection include tweeds, mixtures, and double-faced fabrics. Afternoon coats embody lines

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but is fashioned to hang open. This is trimmed with ermine, with a tricky ermine bow for a boutonniere. The hat is very new. a half and half model in black and white felt and with a scarlet feather made of coral right up the front dividing line. For a warm Easter, nothing could have more swank than a navy blue rashanara suit with pleated skirt, a dressy jacket whose flared ileeves and flaring hip-length feature horizontal bandings and a white blouse banded in blue and scarlet. She carries beige gloves and purse and wears a handsome pointed fox around her neck. Her hat is one of the very new pointed tricorns, in navy ballibuntl. Styles Turn to Little Girl’s Frock A frilled frock in royal purple flat crepe ties its tunic in the back, .like a little girl’s frock and edges its gored skirt with a little frilled ruffle reminiscent of olden days. A little frill is posed at the top of the cuffs, giving a quaint touch to the sleeves. A purple turban has its entire front made of white feathers that are vastly flattering. Extremely formal and luxurious is a beige and black faille ensemble straight from Paris. The skirt is black, the overblouse beige and the coat beige with half-sleeves of black tucked faille. Its supreme contribution to chic is its fascinating ruff collar of pleated black faille which continues down to face the coat. A black hat with beige flowers across its back, beige gloves and a broacaaed purse are accessories. Very Parisian is the little princess silhouetted ensemble in black wool with ermine trim. Its elegance is heightened by the down-in-the-back hemline and its decidedly fitted waistline. One of its little conceits is its white satin lining which has a long question mark sloeseamed on each side of the front. A little question mark in black is worked out on the white blouse A kl ac k Dutch cap, with gardenias on the ears, tops the ensemble. White kid gloves, a white purse and elegant black shoes complete the outfit.

flared at the sides or at the back, and there is generous exploitation of fur trimmings. Long and short-haired peltries both register, with fox and krimmer specifically quoted. Sleeves take on new importance, in many instances, for they are variously elaborated, either with fur or with self fabrics. Smooth-surfaced woolens register prominently in coats of this description. Black is remarked as outstanding, with the featured color range including lemon green, citron and red. Silk ensembles developed with long coats and combining monotone fabrics with prints are quoted as continuing prominently.

NEW SWEATERS HAVE ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS Since sweaters as separate garments have become so important especial attention is being given to their design and color. Some lovely models are shown in white and light colors knitted in lacy patterns of gossamer weight. Others are of heavier wool, to afford greater protection when the costume coat is unlined or no coat is worn. Still others are knitted of wool yarn or are made of jersey in which the pattern is woven in openwork, and many of the quiet colors, beige gray, soft greens and pastel blues, are used. SPRING WRAPS OF FINGER-TIP LENGTH Repeating the popularity of last summer's short wTap to accompany the evening gown full and frilly as to skirt is the hip and finger-tip ! length seen ir wraps of spring persuasion. The first arrival of the little evening coat, instead of being left free to fall as hey will, are held closely i to the hips in a wide swathed girdle or are worn wrapped about the figure snugly. Ruffles of some depth and softly draped fluttering scarfs serve the purpose of enhancing the neckline and make use of long tassels of huge bows to lend a very feminine touch Invariably there is a one-sided line evident at j?oth the back and front of a wrap of this kind. Scarf Is Embroidered j Quite a new' note for evening is ; the net embroidered scarf. One smart model is of net and chiffon embroidered and cut in a semicircle. Such a soft scarf is a protection against draughts.

Second Section

Entered As Second - Class Matter at Postoffice Indianapolis

FLAG SCARF

This imported “signal flag scarf” of red and white crepe de chine is a striking new novelty.

Topcoats Are Roomy Topcoats to be worn over the suit jackets are cut three-quarters or full length, and are straight and roomy. When they are designed for wear with one-piece frocks these outer WTaps show, this year, a decided inclination toward princess lines, not unlike the dressier garments, except in material. Many are unlined.

. SIDE FASTENED

Anew shoe for spring has an interesting side fastening and is cut quite high over the instep. It has a beige lizard vamp and heel with matching kid quarter and piping.

Frock of One Piece in Favor Rough Silk Is Likely to Be More Popular Than Smooth. BY HENRIBENDEL NEW YORK, March 12,—For those first balmy days when one may shed her coat, the one-piece frock w'ill function perfectly this spring. It is several seasons now since the two-piece sports things usurped the place of the little frocks of feminine cut that were all in one piece. Some of the newest one-piece frocks simulate the tw'o-piece frocks but are really made in one. Roughish silks are likely to be more popular for these street dresses this year than smooth silks. New, novelty wools that are sheer and lightweight are excellent also. In fact, there should be some pebbly surface to silks or some basket W'eave or our-of-the-ordinary invisible striping to worsteds to make them the last word this year. Monotones Are Popular Printed silks and figured wools have had such a popularity that each season one wonders how much longer there will be a *real vogue for them. The truth is that monotone things, with intricate, colorful decoration, are running a race with bright prints. But the prints of leaf design on dark background, or ■>odernistic, almost invisible and lovely designs are excellent still. There is much red f <■ season. Touches of it on a black apd chartreuse suit, for instance. A dash of it on the lining of a beige suit with matching blouse. Some one-piece frocks have a tiny line of red outlining this or that bit of ornamentation, especially if they are blue or black themselves. There is a premium, in fact, on red touches. All-Red Frock Is Leader The all-red frock holds a place in the smart woman's wardrobe that is all its own. The very young women should all have at least one jaunty red frock or suit. And a woman should have a red dress. It may be a soft, dark, dull red. There's a certain lilting effect on the spirits that no color can have as effectively as red. Cuffs, collars and belt arrangements are very important on new one-piece frocks. Necklines all tend toward soft feminity. It is seldom that one sees a severely tailored, collarless neck without some mitigating touch. For early spring wear I suggest a jade green or a red wool crepe, trimmed w’ith square buttons and buckle of real tortoise shell. Jewelry Has Real Purpose This tendency to use buttons and buckles of value is one more effort to make all jewelry serve a real purpose for the costume it accompanies. This frock has its blouse portion cut like a man’s shirt, with flue hand-stitching all around the seams. The skirt is cut in three shaped horizontal sections, with a couple of big inverted pleats In the rear for fullness. With this type of frocks, a felt hat in a shade that exactly matches or one that definitely contrasts with the curtain-drop back is a fine choice.

An Intricate Model Much more intricate in cut is a quaint flowered wrap-around frock, with ruffles of accordion pleating posed in curving line on the skirt, and with ruffled cuffs flaring from the tight sleeves. This is a chartreuse and cream print on a black background and is very smart looking. A natural Chinese ballibuntl hat has its bandings match the frock’s colors. Something new in cuffs and collar, as well as skirt fullness, is shown in a charmingly feminine shell-pink crepe one-piece frock. All edges are bound with beige moire ribbon. The cuffs are belted in original manner and the neck has a French fold of fabric for a collar, with one side pleated many times for a tie. There are beige bands about the tight hipline and above the waistline. giving the frock a tight center portion and a high waistline. A rose-beige hat with beige tops it.

CARDIGANS AND BLACK SHIRTS

By way of varying the monotony of the one or two tone sports dresses, models -re shown in which brightcolored cardigans are w'orn with black skirts. In this combination every conceivable sort of over blouse, jersey or cardigan is worn, made ol ! crepe, jersey or handknitted wool or j silk. In plain colors the knitted and : woven materials are shown with geometric designs outlined In drawn ■ work and fine hemstitching. Delicate etching is done on the crepes and cldSely woven jerseycloth, while coarser work is used i in the w'ool garments. - - Gloves WeU-Finished One of the outstanding features of the new gloves, regardless of type, is ; the attention given to the styling of the cuffs or the finish at wrists, on which cuffs are omitted. The backs of many also are to be seen with some form of embellishment, which is little more than a repetition ot the stitching or color scheme used in the cuffs. Charley's Restaurant open for (Sunday, dinners, 5 to 9 p, m. 130 E. Ohio £i— Advertisement.