Indianapolis News, Indianapolis, Marion County, 12 September 1903 — Page 21

THE nTDIAHAPOLIfl KWS, SATUEDAT, SEPTEMBER 12, 190a

—

I

The Twilight Gown Some Home Notes New Sewing Basket

PAGE THAT WILL INTEREST THE WOMEN

A Toast to Women Children and School The Eternal Feminine

PifEWiL USHER Hi WHY HE IS CIOSEH

A WELL-KNOWN FIGURE AT ALL

SOCIETY WEDDINGS.

THE TWILIGHT GOWN.

Combine* the Dinner Gown'* Beauty

with Eaae of a Negligee.

My ia4y. when the dusk of early fall bflna to deepen Into twiiifbt and the dinner hour approaches, puts on not a tea gown, of course.but a twilight gown! This is a cross between a dinner Ores* and a negligee with all the beauty of the former and all the comfort of the latter, its particular virtue Is that it is

cheap without being common.

ALL USHERS LOOK ALIKE! Tbwe ^ distinction about the

f twilight gown which will be at once

. — j observable to you if you will study It.

| It Is so loose, yet so clinging; so ui.con-

Tou can always tell the professional I nned, yet so firm about the waist line; ueher by the number and style of his it is so dressy, yet so unconventional; so scarfpins- Few men run naturally to the becoming and so stylish, yet so free from —.frn.iiafb.r. ■r-.rfr.h.* an a fad The ® tlf ?h<;S». that It recommends Itself to accumulation of scarfpins as a lao. I he : w , jr | d of women at sight usher does not have to achieve his, but • a certain society dame who occastonhas them thrust upon him. *Uy allows herself an evening at home w* Z him „ declared to her modiste that her hueHe is nkely to begin nls career as a ; aot )jp. r dinner gowns. at some wedding when be is a child, ‘They look too much like wrappers.'' makes a hit bv his bearing and die- said she. ' Yet I must have something •f® a W V y ^ TT* , , * loose to wear after the social round of

nity as he marches down the aisle with

tfcg Uttle maid of honor.

Somehow thie first performance of hi* becomes a part of family history, and he then begins ushering in a mild way at the

loose to wear after the social round

the afternoon."

‘Then get a twilight gown,' Raid the modiste, and Immediately she fashioned for her patron a twilight dress which was so charming that it became a household

favorite

weddings of relatives. By degrees he j frtST'Eurbp^ * ‘"Id^'wws'fo^'dinners forms the habit of being naked to usher j *t home, when there axe no guests, a .. „# _, th charming twilight gown which could .be sometime* at the weddings of men with j . U p 0n the style whom he may only have a slight ac- of a court dress of 100 year* ago, open in

i the front and worn with a lace petticoat. “Tie overdress is made of young leaf reen veiling, with knots of ribbon and

quaintance, but as he gets on in certain ”>« front and worn wun a race petticoat

, The overdress is made of young lea green veiling, with knots of nbbon an< lace down each side of the front, which opens very much like a polonaise. There

Is a folded ribbon belt.

Since all women wear the low-cut neck in winter now. aa well as in summer, and. since the low-cut neck is both comfortable and becoming, it is well to cut the twilight gown In a wide point in the

sets, It would almost seem as though bo marriage ceremony were complete

without him.

He Is so experienced and graceful In his ushering that his presence adds tone to a wedding, and sometimes he Iras two or three in a day during the rush season

at faster or in June. But he fairly revels front and' rounding in the back. This la It, and it Is it Joy to him td be ark*-*! open space can be filled In with a chemf«| of town to usher at a wedding where Jsstte if desired.

may only have a casual acquaintance

with the bridegroom or may be, perhaps,

" .U1

ny only t the brid*

a distant relative of the bride The fact that ho Is Invited out of town •hows conclusively that his fame as an usher is growing, and In time he becomes an authority os to th* newest wrinkles in Church weddings, the proper togs which MU show a knowledge of the season s Ashlons, and the best hotels to go to on a wedding tour. HI* Requirement*. Of course, the usher must be popular, But he must be something more than that. He must be a man of whom the hrule and her family strictly approve. No overgay college chum or roystering bachelor companion can figure prominently as an usher. His reputation must be aa spotless as his linen. Eccentricity and the artistic temperament are all very well In their place, but not in an usher. To be depended on he must be correct through and through. Many a man'* career as an usher has been cut abort at hia first wedding by a trace of levity on his face, or perhaps too deep u sorrow, or a severe expression ouloulatod to give the event a funereal

tone.

A bad gait or a peculiarity to the manner of arranging the hair makes u man impoaalblo aa an usher. His appearance counts aa much aa a butler s or a footman‘a Ushers at a wadding, you will notice, are nearly always cast somewhat In the same mold. They acquire tha professional uahar manner uncoimcioualy. and can alwtya be trusted to do the'right thing In the right place. At tike farewell bachelor dinner the Ushers are always as consplououely gay as next day they are enveloped with a gracious charm of manner that has Just Its Infinitesimal trace of regret. Remain* a Bachelor. In reality the usher Is always Inwardly congratulating himself on the fact that he continues a bachelor. Popular as he Is as an usher with the community at large and with prospective mothers-in-law, he goes on ushering to the end of the chapter and rarely attempta the feat of personal bridegroom hood. Once an usher can proudly display twenty-four presentation scarfpins that he has acquired by assisting at the nuptials of hts friends, he gives up the Idea of any marriage for hlmaeif. He accepts the role of a looker-on In Venice. There U certainly eome deterring Influence In the habit, for there la a legend uiat a girl who act* aa bridesmaid more than a certain number of times will never wear orange blossoms of her own. Bo the usher grows old and gray In the work of escorting his friends from the •liar. lie rarely achieves the dignity of best man, for the best man is always chosen for some deeper reason than hts good appearance or even his good char-

acter.

Old friendship, a college intimacy, or a palsnlp that extends back to schoolboy days, will bring a man forward in the

A TOAST TO WOMEN. "M*y 8he Ever Remain as

She Is.”

"Bo here's to woman! May she ever remain as she Isl If sTie must change, let her cl# nge more in the direction of what she is than In the direction of what she wants to be!" Is the way in which a Kansas City paper concludes a toast to woman. After almost a column devoted to the Inferiority of women to men In the professions, the art* and business, tha Western writer owns up handsomely. ‘The truth Is that no basis of fair comparison can be established between the •exes—that In her distinctive oharaetbr* Istlcs woman is almost another being. Morally considered, man Is a fiend when com pared to woman. In the domestic virtues she Is a star-eyed goddess, moving above the masculine sex in planes and orbits to which It oan never attain. When we ask for the woman who can make a good swallowtalled coat, we ought ,to be answered in Yankee fashion by the counter demand to produce th# man who makes a good mother. And here we come to what is really the sublimation of life and living. All the philosophy, all the learning, ail the skill, all the muscle, all the steadfastness boasted by the masculine sex might be thrown to the dogs without seriously impairing the happiness of life, so long aa women remain possessed of those distinctive virtues upon which families are bullded and society finds Us foundation rock ” This kind of talk can be counted on to make the professional woman euffragists very tired But It Is In line with what Dr. G. Stanley Hall, President Eliot, Professor Earl Barnes and other thinkers and educator* are saying The trend of opinion la toward making women "more so," and people are coming to distrust systems of education, occupations and Ideals that divert women from their own true course Into mannish channels. THE NEW SEWING BASKET.

SOME HANDSOME EVENING COSTUMES OF COMING SEASON SHOW A MULTITUDE OF FINE SHIRRINGS IN CHIFFON GAUZE

It Can be Made at Home After the

Store Model.

For the home work table, the Amertcan women seem to be going back to first principles In sewing baskets. One of the daintiest of Inexpensive offerings Is Just such a basket as was uaed two generations ago. The bottom Is hexagon In ahai>«. from four to ten inches In width, according to the slxe of work basket desired. To each of the sides Is attached a slanting, upright piece, which may be shaped according to the taste of the designer. The upright pieces are sewed tight to the bottom piece, and are Joined to each other by bows of bright colored

ribbon.

Any woman possessed of soft hands and

rt of best min. and to this, at least, for proportions can build ons of

bridegroom la allowed hts own choice.

But the ushers are a different proposition. They roust match as far as possible in site, and must never present the nnpenranee of a vaudeville quartet—one tail, the other short, one fat and Jolly, the other lean and severe looking. Reunion of Low Family. The Low family will hold a reunion at Bpring Lake Park September 15. About 160 descendants of the original Lows, living to Shelby. Hancock and Marlon counties, are expected to attend. A great many of the descendants do not know who started the Low family, but all of them are interested in having a happy reunion. Joseph C. Low, of this city, who le seventy-eight years old, is the oldest

surviving member.

A RED CLOTH GOWN.

GOWN OF BLUE MAUVE.

■""”^NE of the handsome evening costumes of the coming season ts of satin chiffon game to a delicious shade of pink and Is made upon the prlrcesse I I lines that are the despair or the ordinary dressmaker and the delight of the modish woman s heart. The fullness of the decolete bodice and ■ wJ eklrt are shirred In to the figure In girdle fashion, a multitude of fine shirrlngs fitting the material to the figure upon exactly the lines that would be followed by a very deep girdle. The lower edge of the shirring slopes up almost to the waist line in the‘back, but down over the hips to a deep point In front. The upper edge disappears under a bertha made of many little frills of Valenciennes lace about an inch and a half in width. This bertha falls over a large puff sleeve of gauze finished, at the elbow with flowing lace frills to matcu the bertha. The skirt of the gown, falling straight and full from tho shirring girdle, yet clinging, has at the bottom a lace-edged flounce of gauze. Above that eight frills of Valenciennes lace are set upon the sloping skirt, the top frill being headed by a line of tiny applied pink chiffon roses and foliage. Next comes a broad band of shirring, then another band of lace frll.s, and then another line of flowers. One more band of shirring lies about half way between knees and hips. The deeolletage is finished with applied chiffon roses and foliage. A handsomi wedding gown is of slrimmering white cream. The full skirt falls In soft folds from the waist band and Is trimmed at the bottom with three very broad bands of exquisite real alencon whose Irregular edges are outlined by tiny ruche* of real Valenciennes. These bands are set on at Intervals and run

around the skirt The full blouse bodice la ccHarless and ha* a close-fitting yoke and bertha In one of the rare delicate laces. The deep cape bertha droop* over huge elbow sleeves forme<J of full frillr. of white chiffon, each frill edged with Valenciennes, and there is a touch of chiffon and Valenciennes at the throat line. The high folded girdle Is of crape and fastens with a knot of orange flowers and foliage. Another pretty frock Is made of white chiffon over white silk, the silk obscured by interveilings, save In the skirt front, where It forms a plaited panel, the plaits falling free below the knees. On the bottom of this silk front Is painted in water colors a very deep pompadour flower design In pale blue pink and corn color, the garlands held by painted loops and knot* of black ribbon. The sides of the skirts are formed of three deeo, rather flat flounce* of white chiffon, each wavy on its edge and finished with very narrow black Valenciennes. The topmost flounce fits the hips snugly and reaches half way to the knees. On it Is painted a deep border matching that upon the front petticoat At either side of a full, flowing back of plain chiffon, this painted flounce turns downward and runs to the bottom of the skirt, cascading softly In a ripple of color and falling in with the fold* of the back. The bodice deeolletage Is finished In front with wavy frills of white chiffon edged In black valenclennes and the elbow sleeeves axe also of these frills; but starting In front of the shoulders, a deep cape collar of painted chiffon fall* over the sleeve, sloping down in the back until It reaches quite to the high folded girdle.

THE ETERNAL FEMININE.

Evening gown of pale blue mauve trimmed to fine tucks and transparent cream colored applique, showing the blue of the under robe. A high girdle with knots of black velvet makes a pretty effect.

A red cloth gotvn, much admired ar.d remarkably chic, but suitable only for the woman with an Irreproachable figure, ha* a cadot which reaches only to the waist to front, ts absolutely tight fitting and levere and buttons straight from the throat to waist line with a single row of gold ball buttons. In the back the coat W tignt fitting and has a straight skirt rea»«uig almost to the knees. Buttons are set at the waist line In the back. A fiat collar piece Is of red velvet, braided and embroidered in gold and black, and the extravagantly full sleeve® havo deop turn-back cuffs of the embroidered velvet, and lingerie frill*. The skirt fits plainly over the hip*, and *t the knee line full plaited panels are Mt In, giving width around the bottom.

these pretty baskets from cretonne anq heavy pasteboard. The pasteboard foundations must be covered on both side* with cretonne, and pockets, straps icr •owing Implement* etc., roust be »ttached to the lining before the latter is fastened on the pasteboard. A small pattern of cretonne gives best results. At one of the woman's exchanges was recently shown a screen for the sewingroom that attracted much attention. The foundation was tho ordinary triple screen of light bamboo, not quite five feet in bight. It was covered on one side with a cretonne to delft blue, and the other side showed stout blue denim, with pockets. There were big pockets and little pocketa pockets as generous as those seen in shoe bags and as dainty as those found to milady'a useless but ornamental wicker basket padded with silk. Across the very bottom ran the most generous pocket of all, not deep, but wide, and each pocket could be drawn up tight with the streamers of white linen tape, so that dust could not get in, nor sewing supplies fail out if the screen were moved or toppled over. The big pocket was for pieces such as the home dressmaker and mender likes to have at hand—flannel and balbriggan scraps for underwear, strips of percaline and lining for belts, linen and cotton belting, and scrap* of silk for patching.

Prof. Earl Barnes says that women form their conclusions too hastily. "Women have not developed the give and take of public life Present any motion before any gathering of women, and you can get It carried If you can get the affirmative put first." American women In Berlin pay 6 marks —about Ji.50-monthly for their street car tickets. It bears their pnotograph—often a caricature of one—and must be exhibited on demand. The bearer is entitled to board any car at any time of day and as often as she pleases In the October Delineator Agnes Surbridge begins an interesting narrative, entitled, fhe Evolution of a Club Woman; a story of Ambitions Realized,'’ to the truth of whiclT'many women with Similar ambitions will testify. "The Wedding Dinner ’ is a pleasant and suggestive article, illustrated with portraits of the supposed principals In the wedding, •o that it reads like tho account of a real ceremony between people one knows of. Waldon Fawcett discusses the romantD charm possessed by historic slippers. Tho fashions of London and the dress and aosstp of Paris are as usual entertaining departments. All of the matters that pertain especially to women s life are treated fully and by experienced writers. A funny story Is told by the Rev. 3. B&rmg-Gould concerning Catherine of Beraln, a Welsh woman, who was known as the Mother of Wales, because she founded So many families. "She was first married to John Salisbury, of Laewen!, and became the mother of Sir John Salisbury, who was born with two thumbs to each hand and was noted for hlk prodigious strength. At the funeral of her husband. Sir Richard Clough gave her his arm. Outside the churchyard stood Maurice Wynne, of Gwydir, awaiting a decent opportunity of proposing to her. As she Issued from the gates he did this. ‘Very sorry,' said Catherine 'but I have just accepted Sir Richard Clough. Should I survive him I wiU marry you.* She was as good us her word, and married yet a fourth before she died, to l«c.' Eureka Lake, a Kansas summer resort, had a funny strike recently. The chambermaids to the chief hotel struck. The guests, to the number of about one hundred, arose one morning to find that their beds must remain unmade and their roc mo untidled, unless they did them themselves. But within an hour a number of fashionable girls from Topeka, who were among the hundred, organised themselves into a volunteer chambermaid force. They went to work with a wlU and tidied up all the rooms before noon: Not only was the work done with greater thoroughness and neatness than before, but with less clatter and fuse. The original chambermaids soon returned to their duties, but the volunteer bed makers awoke to find themselves the heroines of the hour, ana "the yachting trips and boxes of candy and other acceptable attentiona that find their way to their direction ts unlimited King Baby. Kin* Baby an hts tsrona Sits retgmn* O. sits reignteg Or Kin* Baby on his throat Sits reigning ail alcas.

MOLESKIN FAD OF THE MOMENT; LEATHER ALSO HAVING ITS DAY

THE MODE.

on a sepannouftce-

Aidreas Editor Mods for answers to ques-

tlo&s on dress, etlqustts and hyglens.

Inquirer—Grape Jelly should be nut up In glass. If placed in tin. It would apolf,

as the acid would eat the Uh:

M. A. Z.—Mall announcements of a wedding Immediately after the ceremony. If there Is tc b* an “at home'* or recep-

tion, this fact should appear arute card inclosed with the

ment.

B. L.—It should be a comparatively easy matter for you to determine whether your teeth, stomach or throat is the cause of your unpleasan. breath. Impaired digestion, neglected teeth or catarrh must be attended to at once If there la to be Improvement. Try a mouth wash

of llsterlne after each meal.

Anne—A pint of hot water taken Just before going to bed Is often more beneficial than when drunk on rising. In the latter case, there is usually too short an Interval between the hot water and the breakfast hour, so that while the stomach is still weak from the water—and any but a very strong stomach Is weakened by it. it le called on to digest food. Taken at night, the pint of hot water both washes out the poisons left by half assimlllated

food and also acts a* a aedative.

Mary—Here is a list of healthful breakfasts suggested by a woman physician: Monday, prunes, force, soft-boiled eggs, entire wheat toasted, not grape Juice; Tuesday, baked apples, kom krlsp, toast, hot milk (not bolied>: Wednesday, oranges, shredded wheat biscuits, poached eggs, toast, weak cocoa; Thursday, peaches, egg omelet, zwiebach or toaxl, not milk or hot water; Friday, grapes, fish, toast, hot grape juice; Saturday, prunes, baked apples, zwiebach, hot milk; Sunday, oranges force, soft-boiled eggs,

toast, hot grape Juice.

Mrs. B—The limber waist exercise as It is called, is performed aa follows; Bland erect Heels together. Take a deep breath. Put the left hand high to the air. the arm close to the head. The right arm should be close to the body, the the fingers nearly touching the the knee. Body bent to the right. Right hand raised in the air, left hand down at the side, body bent to the left. Do this ten times, moving the body from side to side, holding the breath and expelling every few seconds. This will strengthen an! at the same time make supple the waist muscle*. It is a fine exercise for the

Uver.

tips of side of

JAPANESE GRASSCLOTH.

Th* Many Uses to Which lng«niou* Women Put It* Japanese gr&sscioth Is one of those convenient commodities which Is useful for many things and fills In all sort* of domestic chinks. In its wall paper uses it frequently goes Into what may be called the Informal rooms in the house. la the blUlard-room, the smoking-room or the man's den, where bright colors are in demand, it Is a treasure. It comes in the most brilliant as well as the more subdued colors, and to the former is used as a frieze with deep colored papers. The Japanese papers, new this' year, which look like enlarged fans, with their storks and chtysanthemums and little Japs, have on# of their brilliant colors, red or yellow or blue, reproduced as a frieze to the grasscloth in any one of the rooms mentioned. It ts for smaller things that women like this grasscloth best. It is detlghtful used as a covering for screens, or it may form a mat for a picture of some kind in the top of a screen, the lower part being covered with some textile. It .is also used to form a mat or setting for some light, comic picture, and even with some pretty ones which arc hung by loops from the back without frames. The number of shades in which tho grasscloth comes make It possible to obtain pretty results with the pictures. The poster picture—not a poster in Itself, but mounted poster-like, with roll# at the end and unframed—is one of the recent fads, and the grasscloth mounted pictures are similar. They are pretty in bedrooms and in any of the informally furnished rooms to the house.

HOME DETERIORATES, ISAYS MRS.RUSSELL SAGE

WOMEN INCREASINGLY DESIROUS TO SHED CARE.

CLUBS ARE PARTLY TO BLAME*

GIRLS LIKE SEAL RINGS.

They Ar*

Handsome and Ways Useful.

In Many

Seal rings are th* most popular Just now with girls—that Is, their popularity Is second only to that of engagement rings. These rings come in all sorts of designs. They were first worn by college girls, who had th«lr college and class Insignia cut in the seal, but the designs now are multifarious. Some girls have their monogram or coat-of-arms on the seal and employ it in sealing letters. Three girls comparing rings the other day began to discuss the practical uses of such a ring. “I have solved a perplexing problem," •aid the girl who keeps house for her bachelor brother. "One of my married friends told me that the tradespeople always looked at a woman customer s hand to see whether she wore a wedding ring. If they saw that she did. they presumed that she knew something about meats and vegetables and that sort of tiling, and were afraid to try to deceive her. I thought over what she said and the next time I went to market I turned my ring around so that the seal was on the inside and the ring looked like the plain gold band which denotes matrimony. “It worked like a charm. When I was ordering anything I kept my left hand In such a position that ths ring was prominently displayed before the eyes of the shopkeeper. Since I adopted the plan wo have had the beet of everything in the market and at prices averaging about 10 cents less on the dollar than 1 had been paying for Inferior merchandise.’’ ARE TOO SENSITIVE.

As though to emphasise ths need of th* home, Mrs. Russell Sage, whose pea grows ever more busy with advancinf years, contributes to the Clubwoman an article on the “Deterioration of th* Home" that is calculated to make the American woman pause on the brink of an abyss by which Mrs. Sage thinks she* stands For Mr®. Sage sees national peril 1 to the present "homeieea" situation. “There is certainly a growing deeire on the part of women to free themselves from all household cares. Hotel Ufs offer* to many the -easiest solution of th* domestic question, and lazy woman are really to blame for their trouble with servants, as the duties of the mistress toward the latter ar* not properly discharged," she says. "Three of my servants, the coachman and two maids, have been with me thirty, twenty and ten years, real'actively, therefore, I can not say that th* question has troubled me personally. A common Interest binds us together. Feeling that this is thair home as well as mine, they do not refuse to do extra service whenever it is needed.

As to Cooks.

“Cooks ore difficult to keep, as they are more to demand In marriage. Men Ilk* to m&rry cooks. They feel that th* food question Is settled then, whereas chambermaids and waitresses do not appeal as closely to a man’s Interest. Club life to some extent is responsible for th* desire on the part of so many women to get away from housekeeping and its attendant drudgery. But it is hardly Just to lay the onus on clubs if there is no sense of duty compelling the wife and mother to look well to th* ways

of hsr household.

“The desecration of the Sabbath which tills restl ess ness lias engendered grieves me greatly. I will not say ‘there la no Sabbath, 1 but excessive entertaining draws people away from church attendance and produces the worst effect of all upon the home life. This has been going on for years. Many people never resume church membership after coming to New York. This affects the horns through ths children. They receive no Sabbath instruction or training of an^r ktod^ They are

People Who Lose Money Need Not Lose Friends. The reason why people who have lost their money drop out of their world is not that by becoming poor they lose their friends, as is generally said and believed by those who have been unfortunate, but because they themselves are the first to withdraw from ths companionship of those with whom they used to associate. The world is very good-natured and very good-hearted, but it is also very busy, and has no time to stop and pick up those who fall by tho wayside; but if the latter struggle up and stagger on it is generally very willing to lend kindly assistance. If people who have had reverses would act just the same as ever, there would be no difference, but they withdraw to a distance, and then wait for especial attention, which, it must be admitted, they do not often receive, as people in Vanity Fair seldom go out of their way, for anybody or anything unleaa some especial advantage ts to be gained thereby. Those who have been unfortunate would be less bitter if they realized this fact, if they felt that it rested with themselves to he or not to be socially existent They must not seem down-hearted, and they must not look shabby. This Is ail that the world asks of them. If they can bravely hold their own In these respects there is no need of "dropping out of everything."

A MOLESKIN COAT.

There is, for example, a moleskin coat among ihe imported garments, it hangs lor>se and flowing to a point well below the hips and has huge flaring belt sleeves. Around the bottom

r of coat and sleeves rvi* a wide band of L.—One of the best methods of strength- 1 handsome Irish lace, and into each wide eelng the eyes is to spend as much time ; sleeve, hall way between the shoulder and the country as possible rtstlns — * —

taught to entertain and seek for distraction, and as they grow older this craving for artificial life grows stronger and

more difficult to gratify.

And Manner*.

"As for manners! There are not enough to be mentioned to-day, and I doubt if w* will see the pretty courtesies of the young to the old again. Neither does the school supply this moral training. Ths intellect is fed, and there is no time left for teaching manners. Colleges are powerless to accomplish anything In this line. Th* girls go for brain work and take with them a certain maturity and habits to manners acquired at home. • The maternal instinct seem* lacking to some mothers or is in a very crude state. One woman frankly admitted to mo that she did not understand her children—that they were both mysteries to her.* One is four years old, the other eighteen months. The failure to become acquainted with them appears tp be due to a lack of inclination to try and enter into their young Uvea at th* oest of bar own personal comfort." SHIRTWAIST SUGGESTIONSBlack Embroidery on White a Popular

Combination.

Black embroidery on whit* Is extremely fashionable, providing the contrasts are not too startling. As ons well-dressed woman said; "Black embroidery on whit* should take the form of a delicate tracery. otherwise it becomes bourgeois." A dainty white waist follows after this dictum. It la of fine French flannel and Is perhaps too elaborate to come under the head of a shirtwaist. It is cut after a shirtwalat model, however, except that it has a deep cuff. The sleeves are laid in wide plaits as for down as the elbow. Each plait is ornamented with a slender line of black and white silk embroidery, and the end of each la marked bv an Inch wide medallion, also embroidered In blaok and white silk. The same embroidery trims the box plait down th* front of the waist, and a line of medallions runs across, Just below the bust line. But the waist does not depend on embroidery alone for its ornamentation. Th* high stock collar is a combination of embroidered white flannel and white laoe. Lace Is also appllqued to form a shallow rounding yoke, which extends slightly over the sleeves, and the cuffs are covered On another white waist the black embroidery is set between the narrow stitched box plaits, which run from throat to waist line, The same plan 1* followed on the sleeves, though her* the plaits of necessity only run a short distance below the elbow. Below that point the sleeve widens out Into a puff which drop# over the shirtwaist cuff.

MODEL IN WHITE CLOTH.

So tender O, Hi* throne 1* Where none mi

tender oi Mother"« Xr.re. ■T sit hut he

His crown It is of gold. So curly G. so curly Oi Hi* crown it Is of gold. In ghinirg tendrils rolled. HI* Xtogdom Is my heart. So loyal O, eo loyal O: Kis kingdom Is my heart. His own to every part. pivtoe are all hi* laws, So simple O, so ehnpie O! Divine are ail his laws. With Dove for end and cause. King Baby on his throne Sits reigning O. fits reigning Oi King Baby on his throne Sits reigning all alone. —Laurence Atosa-Tadema.

MOST delightful garment Into whose composition kid enters, is made of oyster white cloth, and is full length and closo fitting. Beautiful lines, accommodated to the straight front figure, are attained by the use of man}' seams, and each of these seams is piped or corded with the merest line of dead white kid. The full sleeve has seams and kid pipings running down the outside of the arm and ts finished by deep turn-back cuffs of white kid heavily stitched In black and bordered by a narrow band of cloth. The stitched kid collar corresponds with the cuffs, and the coat buttons down the front with a single row of silver bail buttons. For wear with the coat are a stole and muff of moleskin and miniver. A flat cape collar of miniver lies over the shoulders and has a border and stole ends of moleskin, the ends being banded to miniver at the bottom and finished with heavy chenille fringe the shade of the moleskin. The muff is a huge shaped affair of moleskin, trimmed to miniver, and the whole costtime presents a picturesque ensemble all in soft white and gray and black.

Rich and Poor. rPhUadetoh:* Lodger.] "You know Miss Golden? "Yes; the rich girl—" •The same. She s engaged to Jack Cad-

Yes? the poor girl.*"

An Agreeable Remedy. fCleveland Plain Dealer.]

my husband is greatly afflicted

•What does he do for It?"

“Stays out until 2 © clock every morn-

"Yes,

by Insomnia.

e country as

exercising the eye j far-off objects. Jn j vision is constantly shortened by nearby wails. Out-of-door life always gives i Increased vitality, of which the eye parI takes with the. rest of the body. Tnen, . too. there are the restful green of the ] earth and blue of the sky to hasten im- ! provement. Freedom from dust and the glare of the pavement are also gained. It Is a good Idea for one whose eyes are senI sitive to go occasionally to an oculist and have them washed clean of grit and dirt, by a fine spray of hot water. The operation takes only a moment and is extremely grateful. One doing this for the first time is surprised to find how much the eyes need this bath. Thle Soup will Not Curdls. To th# Editor of The News; Sir—Will you please publish th* following receipt for making tomato soup, that will not curdle when th* milk Is added, and which is perfectly delicious: Take one quart of tomatoes, cut fine, add salt, pepper and lump of butter the size of an egg; when it has come to the boiling point add half teaspoonful of soda, which sweetens and prevents curdling. Have a half gallon of rich milk boiling hot, in another vessel: add the tomatoes and two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed to a smooth paste. Allow all to become scalding hot. Run through a colander and serve. SUBSCRIBER.

large lace medallion. The coat Is of white satin, but light blue velvet On each of

the colling blue revere is applied a genuine peacock feather and around the edge of the revere on front is a line of hand embroidered work done in peacock colors.

HOME NOTES.

For a rejuvenator when one’s vigor is at an ebb a sandwich of ground coffee is recommended by one who ha# tried it A Uttle sugar makes it more palatable. Much of the stress of the housewife's day would be saved if certain essentials were always to be found on each floor of her houne and unnecessary going up and down stairs were thus eliminated. Among the needfuls called into use constantly are a clock that can be relied upon, sewing materials for household rents, a calendar, a brush broom, a broom and dustpan, or carpet sweeper and plently of dust cloths. While the grower is bending his energy to produce beautiful stems to his flowers a multitude of his patrons are hiding this most important part of his product behind the walla of opaque vases. The shops are filled with multitudes of clear crystal vases in attractive shapes at prices to suit all buyers. For choice flowers or, in fact, flowers with green stems of any length, the plainer and clearer the glass of their holder the better.

There is another unusual model to white cloth with the ubiquitous moleskin. The coat is a Russian blouse, with long skirts, and has a flat collar, or rather a shallow, rounded yoke of moleskin and bands of the same skin upon the oddly-shaped, voluminous sleeve. The other trimming of the garment consists of heavy silk soutache braid laid in three rows upon bands of orange velvet and allowing only the merest line of orange to gleam through between them This banding borders the fur yoke, runs down the front# and forma the belt and cuffs. Enamel buttons in silver and orange carry out the color schema „

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