Indianapolis Journal, Volume 54, Number 94, Indianapolis, Marion County, 3 April 1904 — Page 28

PAKT THREE.

8 THE INDIANAPOLIS JOURNAL, SUNDAY, AF11IL 3, 1901. FasViion's Decrees on "Wlat to Wear; Gossip on Subject of Fretty Gowns

. r alFil women 4 5fie uome (y? ppvi : B I . - . - .... - III - - - I I !

Suggesting the Diversity In Millinery

Matters of Feminine Interest

Household Lore, Beauty PHilosopHy, and Other Subjects "WHicK Women Are Especially Concerned

T big hotels, says a writer In Table fleers. The "men behind the sns" are as our Hibernian iriend would say the trained women in their employ. The Waldorf-Astoria in New York is a superbly typical hotel of the opening twentieth century, and even a superficial acquaintance with its intricate, finely-geared machinery will bring to light the fact that, barring the culinary department, the "power behind the throne"' is the feminine contingent enlisted there for service. Mrs. Kate Sewering, who recently resigned her position as head housekeeper of the Waldorf-Astoria, had held that responsible post for ten years, and the fact hat she assigned ill-health as the cause of her withdrawal could hardly, in view of the "strcnuousness" of the office, give rise tLo incredulous comrr.tnt. :ver sine the doors of the big hostelry rwere thrown open Mrs. Sewering has acted tas generalissimo of a force of helpers seven jhundred strong, some of the men assistants coming within her jurisdiction. Hers was the strong, pervasive presence that made itself felt in every corner of the , monster hotel. A woman of commanding presence, with snow-white hair, ever vigilant, marvelous in resource and possessing the finest tact, she ministered for a decade of years more directly than any one else to the comfort of the many wealthy and prominent guests that came and went. Thousands of dollars are paid out weekly to the women employes of this modern caravansary. The humble cleaners and thes dignified "floor clerks" who not infrequently write college-earned titles after theif namesrepresent the two social extremes of this hotel community. The force of women workers necessary to keep each of the fourteen floors right up to dots' is twenty, besides the assistant housekeeper who has charge of them. There are seven of these assistant housekeepers. Each one is responsible for two Jloors. and reports regularly to the senior In command. The very nicest discrimination is brought to bear in the selection of these seven head workers. They must be exceptionally intelligent, alert and possessed of much more than ordinary executive ability, while the advantage of a pleasing presence is by no means ignored by those in authority. These seven women Autocrats employ, discharge and direct the tasks of fifteen parlor maids, ninety chambermaids, fifty cleaners and twenty seamstresses, as well as u goodly-sized contingent of minor assistants. There is. besides, a small army of women employes who are not "under orders" to the housekeepers. These are the "floor clerks" and cashiers, to the number of thirty-three; the fifteen kitchen helpers, who are almost lost there in the crowd of masculinity in the shape of cooks and waiters; the seventytive laundry employes, and the four "controllers." whose special duty it is to audit the checks of the men waiters. Then there are eight busy workers constantly employed in the storeroom, twelve in the glass pantries and sixteen waitresses who serve all those women helpers who live In the hotel. The fact that there are in daily use at the Waldorf over twenty thousand sheets . and as many pillowcases; more than eight thousand Vthirsty towels." and twelve thousand napkins, all of which are laundried in the hotel, will give an idea of the importance of the position of head laundress, fche directs the work of many men helpers, as well as of scores of women, in their arduous task of keeping the hotel linen spotlessly clean. The making of the matchless salads and delectable ices, as well as the selection and artistic arrangement of fruits, is under the direct supervision of the woman head of the storeroom. The wealthy and lastidiou-s gourmets of the Waldorf in a city of nerves and notions are, it is almost needless to say. mercilessly exacting in evervthing that pertains to fine eater-Ins-Their soups, their entrements, their salads, their ices, their fruits, must be as near perfection as human skill and human selection can possibly compass, and the reigning head of the "storeroom" with her ctgnt expert assistants must be since those who prepare food for mankind are ma kefs of morals veritable arbiters of dfstmy, along with the cooks. Each floor in the mammoth hostelry has two women clerks, who are under the direction of the head clerk, a man. This man is. however, something: of a tlgureheuJ. while his woman assistants are strenuously employed fnvn morning until night looking after the comfort of guests on their particular floor. Each floor is a little hotel in itself. It has its own corps of pageboys. Its own key and mail service. The two "floor clerks" take orders for flowers, for theater tickets, for carriages and laundry. They keep a watchful eye on all meals that are served In the rooms; "welcome the coming and f IK-t'J the parting guest" after collecting his bill and giving him careful directions concerning railroads. Meamers. etc. The patrons of the Waldorf-Astoria need never descend to the main floor for any service whatever. Every possible wish is anticipated right "cm the level." There are professional women packera ready to pack trunks and dress-suit caes; cx:rts in manicuring and massage: stenographers for busy capitalists; maids for lady diners-out and theatergoers, who respond at the magic touch of the "floor ch-rkV hell. There Is one duty performed wholly by m.u now, :n the up-to-ccv hotel, that

in

used to come strictly within the province of the one overworked housekeeper the caring for its lace curtains. In the Waldorf there is a corps of men busily engaged during all of their working hours, year in and year out. taking down lace curtains that are soiled or worn and replacing them with fresh white draperies. There is still another relay of men that looks after the colored hangings. The specialist is found in all ranks of workers. The "cleaners" in the big hotel confine themselves exclusively to scrubbing floors, and are a distinct class from the "sweepers." Those who are detailed to wash the glassware never even see the regular dishwashers. All of this work is done solely by women. Shopping guides and trained nurses can be obtained from outside on short notice. Even women detectives are to be found beneath the roof cf this wonderful hostelry, and are often engaged on cases where men would work at a disadvantage. There is a small coterie of cashiers all women each of whom sometimes handles $5.000 a day. The entire n. iber of women who find remunerative employment, according to their rank, in this incomparable "inn," 'approximates Ave hundred. They have besides being' well paid the distinct advantage of having their duties strictly assigned, so that they can measure their tasks berore they attack them and there is vastly more in this in the way of gain than appears on the surface. The managers of the Waldorf-Astoria have no difficulty in securing skilled women workers, although the strenuous life of those who must be always on the spring to meet the whims and caprices cf the traveling public can hardly be conducive to a well-preserved old age. Preliminary to Hoasecleanlnir. Country Gentleman. Begin early to inaugurate the spring cam paign; much can be done before the weather warrants the general upheaval. Boxes and trunks can be brought Into a warm room, assorted and neatly arranged. To save time in finding odds and ends when needed, paste a plainly-written list of contents on box and trunk, and you will not need to overhaul or hunt for something that after all may be somewhere else. Tidy up the secretary and bureau drawers, dust, assort and rearrange bookcases. Closed cupboards in pantry and kitchen may receive attention, bottles and spice boxes labeled, cans made ready for the season's canning. Make them air-tight with two old rings or one new one. Tnis is best done by filling half full of water, adjusting ring and cover and tipping the cans bottom side up. Leave half an hour. If they do not leak in that time they are hermetically sealed. 1'ress the edge of the cover on the glass without the ring, thtn put on the ring. This facilitates the testing process. To sweeten tainted cans and earthen Jars leave- them filled with dry earth for several days. Clothes presses adjacent to rooms that can be warmed can be cleaned; garments past wearing laid aside in box or barrel, to be cut in odd moments into patches, house clothes, rugs or carpet rags, all clothiner which will be needed before houseclcaning is ovtr should be put in repair. All out-of-the-way niel.es and corners can be set in order. These things well done materially lighten labor when the more strenuous work of houseclcaning is upon us. Use a short-handled mop, wrung so it will bot drip, to wash the baseboards, tops and bottoms of doors and the tops of window casings. It largely does away with so much getting up.and down. Wash the outside of the windows on a cloudy day; sunlight falling upon the glass makes it streaky. There are preparations for cleaning windows which many prefer to water. To mend holes in a rag carpet, cut away the rags to where they are strong and cut and fold rags to match, baste flat and sew to the ends of the rags on either side, drawing them quite tight. Cut away the warp, turn threads under and fasten to the wrong side of carpet. Make a knot in thread, or rather cotton, to match warp in size and color. Commence on wrong side and weave over and under the rags, and fasten on the other side. When the space is filled, place a damp cloth over the place, a dry one over it and press heavily with a reasonably hot iron. To mend Brussels carpet, cut away a square or oblong (not round) piece and buttonhole the edges with yarn to match in color, with care not to ravel or flatten the edges. Cut a section of the carpet to fit, one which will exactly match, and buttonhole the edges as before. Sew together with overhand stitch on the wrong side. Dampen the Joining and press on the wrong side until the seam is flat. If the carpet is faded, expose the section to be set In to the direct rays of the sun for some time. Sew the breadths of a new wool carpet over and over, stitch on the wrong side; a rag carpet on the right side with ball stitch. taking an occasional back stitch to hold firm. Free braided rugs from dust by spreading them on the ground and using a rattan beater; if hung over a line the threads are likely to be broken. It weakens the fiber of a carpet, especially If much worn, to beat it hanging over a line; but it is more work to clean it by sweeping or beating when it is spread on the sround. When buying a new carpet, get a half yard more than enough to cover the floora yard would be still better. The thrums from a rag carpet are useful in many ways. The? "Wife Ilelatlve. Foster Washburn, in Haroer's Marion Bazaar. If any of our relatives are really in need of shelter, care and a home which we only can give. It is so true that our husbands ought to be willing to help us give it that the dazzle of the truth fairly blinds us. It blinds us to that other less effulgent truth, that no man can be compelled or napged Into the daily exercise of the Chris-

dm

0 MUCH of winter millinery was in large sizes that the headgear from which women are now choosing does not make the impression for size that otherwise it would. The fact is that a very large proportion of the new hats of dressy order are very large, but since the same has been true of late, and as the largest of them Is of a feather's lightness, the extreme sizes do not seem at all out of the way. In the spring models small and medium sizes are not lacking. many of them dressy enough for any reasonable taste, but the prospect fcr summer is that there will be few sizes between the small and simple hat and the large and showy affair. This matter of size is apparent, too, not only in wide-brimmed sorts, some of these drooping and some stiff, but in turbans and like shapes, quantities of which are in hand. These new turbans are not the little snug-fitting affairs they used to be, but are either high of crown or wide of brim, or often they possess both these characteristics. The coarse braids of which those hats often are made serves to make them look even larger than they are. Of shapes there is no end. Those of turban-like character are numerous, but the name should be read with the understanding that modification has been of the freest and has been accomplished with great diversity. The disposal of wide rim3 may be quite to the wearer's taste. If her liking Is for a brim that droops throughout its circumference, she may have hers that way. If she likes it turned up at one side, thus it may be, and the upturn may be of the extreme sort that leaves one side of the head almost bare, or it may bo an entirely moderate uplift. Then, if she has a fancy for originality In such matters she will- seem more in touch with millinery standards if she confesses to love of individuality, not of novelty; then there are all manner of ways to curve the brim up hero or there saucily, and all these methods seem equally stylish. If one is more favored than another, it is the droop. This appears in so many forms, both in the shape of the hat and in the trimmings, as to hint that it may become a characteristic of the season, but it is too early as yet to tell. In summer hats of the garden variety it is a very dainty and tasteful effect. Another feature cf shapes that appears often in examples of widely different character is a long point for the front. This may come well out over the wearer's nose, and be of the simplest nature, merely the texture of the hat itself, or it. may be a showy mass of trimming, as a bed of roses or a bank of violets. Sometimes this point appears only In the brim, and again it is acctntuated by a creare running from front to back In the crown. The latter sometimes is so decided that the walking hat of years ago is suggested. Again the point and crease are only hinted. A quit different type of hat also is built out over the face. It is a reflection of the hats of a year ago, those that extended away out in front and tian virtues; and nothing short of daily, hourly exercise of the highest of these virtues will enable him to bear the constant presence in hi3 own house, the only place where he is entirely himself, of a person belonging to his wife's family, and possessed of all her peculiarities and none of her charm. If these virtues spring spontaneously in his heart, we are fortunate indeed, and the intruding kinsman performs a blessed mission in bringing before our proud eyes a daily vision of the magnanimity, gentleness and patience of the man we love best. However this may be, our own obligation to his people remains an obligation none the less real because it comes third. Wc must consider ourselves first, indeed, but only so far as It is necessary to keep our useful ejuaiities In good working order. Our enjoyment, our selfish case and convenience, are not. of course, to be considered at all. Neither are our personal likes and dislikes. Then we place our immediate household second, and In doing so discover that we have a double motive to spur us to meet th.s third obligation. For while we may not force our husbands along the path of duty, we may indeed, we must run with them when th:y incline of themselves to walk therein. The better Eon and brother a man Is the better husband and father he will be, and our sacrifice will be made up to us In ways that are dearest to women provided we do not sate our hunger on the cheap pottage of immediate approval and recognition. Rice mill It Merita. Table Talk. As an article of diet, rice possesses the advantage of being the most easily digested (but one hour being required for perfect digestion) and most completely assimilated of the starch grains. For these seasons it becomes a valuable food for persons of sedentary habits. It is also rich in nutritrive properties, being four times as nutritious as the potato, and more uniform in quality. According to the views of mod em chemists, rice contains a smaller amount of flesh-forming substances and a larger amount of fat-forming or heat-producing substances than any other grain. Owing to the small quantity of gluten which it contains, rice is capable by itself of only very imperfect fermentation, and is. therefore, unfit for baking Into bread. The palatableness of rice, if not. indeed, its wholesomeness. depends largely upon the way it is cooked. The gummy preparation which passes muster on so many tabics under the name boiled rice is a sorry travesty upon this wholesome dish when it is properiy cooked. Boiled rice forms the basic principle of nearly all rice dishes. It is. therefore, well worth any cook's while to master the art of preparing it. First of all. a superior grade of rice must be selected the Carolina is the best in the market to-day then it must be washed In several cold waters and carefully picked over, after which it should be plungeel into unsalteel boiling water, allowing four quarts of water for each pint of rice. Cover the whole closely and boil rapidly for twenty minutes. Turn into a colander and drain well; then stand the colander over a vessel containing a small quantity of boiling water, and steam until the rice Is white and dry, occasionally stirring lightly with a fork. The grains should b full and soft, and each one retain its form though twice its original size. Rice With Cheese. Boil one pint of rice; when full and soft, remove from the fire and stir into it two well-beaten eggs, onehalf cup of grated cheese, one tablespoonful of butter and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Turn into a buttered ramequin and stand in a. hot oven for a few mlnutes. Serve at once without redishing. Or, just before sending a dish of boiled rice to the table, cover thickly with a layer of grated cheese. Rice Souffle. Blend three tablespoonfuls each of sifted flour and butter' in a clean saucepan; then add one cup of milk; place over the fire and stir constantly until the mixture thickens and is very smooth; then add one cup of grated cheese and the yolks of three egps beaten light. Season to taste with salt. Fold ir. the stiffly-beaten whites of the eggs. Have ready a buttere-d baking dish, lined bottom and sides with boiled rice, into this turn the mixture and bake In a rather slow oven twenty-five minutes. Serve as soon as taken from the oven, and without redishing. Rice With Oysters. Place a layer of boiled rice in a buttered ramequiu, dot

flip-flapped in every breeze. These were hardly a pretty fashion In the form they then had, seeming to be hinged at the back of the head so as to be at the mercy of every draught. But the new forms are not so exaggerated as were the old, and the remarkably open texture of most of them will let any ordinary breeze through - without difficulty. In all sizes and shapes everything is planned for lightness. Were it not that recent summers have accustomed shoppers to staringly coarse braids in straws, the current sorts would seem striking. As it is, they seem no more remarkable than were those of the" last two or three summers. But what is noticeable in them is their openness. No little ingenuity has been exercised in making and using open-mesh materials, and the coarsely-woven braid seems all the coarser for its many and sizeable open spaces. Last summer's trick of combining straw braids of several colors is repeated with the modification that has the braids in several shades of one color. Lace straw insertions account for much of the look of lightness and openness, and are seen in great variety. Much straw of close weave is of the soft weave to desirable for floppy brims. Makers of this straw seem to have achieved new softness. Some of these straws are so silky of appearance as not to seem like straw at first glance. Lace is to be the main material of many hats, and on others is to be employed lavishly in trimmings. The matter of color is of secondary Importance in that all colors are admitted. Beyond the point already hinted of having a hat composed in several shades of one color, there is little new in colors. The shaded scheme appears in all manner of headgear from the showiest to the very simple. In the showrooms all red hats are much in evidence, but when are they not? And women are not going to top themselves in flaring red in any greater numbers than is usual. Purples, lilacs ami lavenders will be numerous, bMng a frequent resort of the admirers of shaded hats. Practically' all stylish shades have a showing, so the choice is wide. Gold appears in the materials and trimmings of millinery as in gowns, though hardly in such quantity. But traces of gold are numerous, and they usually prove a elecided addition. In hats, as in gowns, however, it is a mistake to employ the gold in masses. ( . Flowers fashioned from ribbons and from straw are novel trimmings. The straw flowers are especially useful in suggesting lightness and complexity, but recent standards have demanded passable counterfeits In the imitation bloom, and except in shape, the straw flower cannot meet this test. Their newness, however, is immensely In their favor. Many turbans are made and trimmed entirely with straw, a plaideil or variegated straw being used for the foundation, and a straw of plain color for the trimming. On the larger turbans the brim turns back to the height of the crown, and a band is often put midway of this. An example was a red and black and green straw trimmed with a band of green straw anc a straw rosette. Turbans of finer straw sometimes show a wreath of small roses on the rim. The back of the hat may be either plain or

with bits of butter; over this place a layer of oysters seasoned with fait, pepper and lemon Juice; alternate until the elish is filled, finishing ofT with a layer of rice. Pour over all half a cupful of oyster liquor and bake twenty minutes. Rice Pyramids. Toast a sufficient number of rounds of bread, and butter them. On each arrange a small pyramid of hot boiled rice. Shell and halve the refjuired number of hard-boiled eggs; place a half on each side of ih? pyramids and over all pour a little drawn-butter sauce. The Houackeeper'ti Tnlcnts. Harper's Weekly. "A Mere Man" has written a series of articles In the Baltimore Sun on the deficiencies of his womankind. No business on earth, he asserts, is so Ill-managed as housekeeping; no other arti.-an is so stupid, so extravagant, t so unprogressive as the housekeeper. There i3 much to be said on the side of "Mere Man's" assumptions. Home, In the minds of most men. Is synonymous for paradise, and doubtless It often falls short. On the other hand, there are many who, if they could be translated into paradise, would find halos unbecoming, a disagreeable glare to the goklcn streets, and milk and honey naucecus. Meanwhile, the "Mere Man" should have begun by taking stock of the demands made upon a good housekeeper. He rlmply states that men learn their business and Improve and expand it, whereas a woman never learns her business and carries it on as badly in the twentieth as in the first year. But there are both imbeciles and unfortunates among men whose businesses deteriorate. There are bankrupts whose businesses fail. There are listless rvt An orwt -lnll r.ln iK-A i I J it low level from end to end of life! All mtn. too, are numan ana apt to nna their counterparts among women. The main point of the "Mere Man's" contention is. however, that housekeeping Is perfectly easy and would improve if put into the hands of men. There is an interesting and quite authentic case, known to ph$-sicians. of a man who married a very successful business woman. Her salary was so much larger than his that they reversed the order of things; she continued hfr business and he . ran the home. Within three years he was a total nervous wreck and wis warned by his physician that no man had the endurance to be a housekeeper. This was despite the fact that he was filling the functions of housekeeper pure and simple. and was let off the usual burdens of social life and child-rearing. The competent housekeeper; the "Mere Man's" experience to the contrary. ke?ps inventories of all her belongings, of the linen closet, the china pantrv. the silver, the kitchen and cleaning utensils. She goes over It twice a year, correcting and renewing, and sets nlde a given sum for depreciation and unavoidable wear and tear. The average housekeeper is a better housekeeper two years after she has gone into the business, and improves steadily as time goes on. Despite enormous diflvcultles she usually has a very smooth-running machine after five or six years. The wonder of it all Is not that housekeeping is so badly done, but that, considering the lack of proper technical training of domestic servants and the excess of talents demanded for the business, there is still such a preponderance of cheerful, beautiful, orderly homes. HouHchold Hint. Curtain rods may be passed through the casing of a curtain far more easily and with less risk of damage to the muslin or lace if the finger of an old kid glove is slipped over the end of the rod which enters the casing first. To clean agatewear put the ware on the stove filled with water and into the water put a tablespoon of salsoda (washing soda) and then after a wrflle use a scouring soap and you will be pleased with the result. Also put your bean pot on the stove and a good, generous-tablespoon of soda and It will wash as easily as a cup. A little soda put in your greasy baking pans and keeping them warm while washing your other dishes will help along that most disagreeable task. Laying carpet down before the floor is thoroughly dry after scrubbing it 13 a frequent cause of moths in carpets. The floor

trimmed. If an effect of breadth is desired at the back, it may be obtained with loops of two-Inch velvet arranged to lie down over the hair. Elaborate trimming is characteristic of many large hats. Lace and flowers are combined without apparent system. Flowers appear here and there in clusters, and lace droops and drapes without other rule or reason than a graceful, ornamental appearance. Tiny flowers are put in clusters, and large ones may stand alone, in lots of two or three, or they may be sprinkled about in profuFion, though, as a rule, the lavish use is restricted to the smaller bloom. With the flowers and the lace ostrich feathers may appear. Feathers in two colors are a stylish notion. Thus a tan hat is trimmed with feathers half white and half green. The notion looks better than it sounds. Some of the color fancies of new millinery always are trying, some being discarded altogether, more surviving through women becoming accustomed to them. A color scheme that first consideration left in doubt appeared in an elaborate hat trimmed freely with light blue rosettes having purple centers. Such fancies never should cause alarm, for if they do not impress women as tasteful they will not find acceptance. So diverse Is the new millinery, then, that the choice of a few examples for illustration is not easy, typos being so few that selection of monstrous novelties becomes a temptation. But in to-day's pictures the artist presents hats that are pretty and stylish, with the warning that there are hosts of others eiuite unlike them. The hat of the first picture was a fancy white straw, trimmed with white lace in -whose mesh black velvet showed. Wide black velvet encircled the crown and fell on the hair In back. In the next picture, at the top, is a wide hat of pale green chip trimmed with pink roses and green velvet. Its wide black chiffon veil was to be counted a feature of its embellishment. A,t its right is a threecornered hat of red and white coarse straw, finished with a fancy rosette of soft red straw. Below these, in order, are a fancy tan straw picture hat trimmed with black ostrich plumes and black silk; a sailor of white straw, with pink roses and white quill, and a blue chip sailor trimmed with blue silk and clusters of white chrysanthemums. In the next sketch se at the top, an open-work hat of white guipure, with edge of pink panne, and with pink -silk and roses for trimming. Below are a soft tan straw trimmed with lavender silk and white roses and leaves, and a rough brown straw turban topped with a bunch of double white roses. Old-fashioned touches arc valued in the new millinery, of course with up-to-date modifications. Much draping of brims is a, reflection- of this liking. Elaborate veils come in for such use, some of them suggestive of lace curtains. Garden hats with wide brims have very pretty draping. Another o!d-fashioned medium is the hat that fastens with tie strings. It is present in every showing of new millinery, but not in impressive numbers. Of its kind is the hat secured by the new ring veils, the veil having ends to the waist line from the bow beneath the chin. New York, April 1.

should be absolutely dry before the carpet is relald and it Is a wise precaution to sprinkle a little ini-ect powder between it and the floor. To eradicate moths from carpets damp heat is best, for thus the eggs are destroyed- Wring a cloth out in hot water, lay it, on the carpet and then go over it with a hot iron. Do this on a fine day and afterward keep doors and windows of the room open till the carpet is dry. The "housekeeior who has not discovered the value of the small towel in her household e-eonomics has .something yet to learn. It is only recently that they have been used to any extent in private famiiies. but their usefulness is making them increasingly popular. ,Thls is the towel that has heretofore been fcnown as the Intel size. It is the small hand towel that is used in large quantities in public places, where many people uee a towel only once. A large towel would be inconvenient and the ordinary towel would make at least twice the bulK to send to the laundry. To polish furniture use one ounce of brown beeswax; one-half ounce white wax. one-half ounce castile soap, one-half pint turpentine, one-half pint of water. Shred the brown and white wax into a jar (a twopound jam jar will do), add the turpentine and let it stand on the stove until dissolved. Shred the soap and let it boil in the water until quite dissolved. Allow to cool. Then pour into the 'am and &tir all the ingredients together. When cold it will be a thick cream and must be kept air tight. For old furniture this produces a deep, glowing polish, quite different from any other, and it does not finger mark.

PONCE, E, WITH BULGARIAN EMBROIDERY

Pongee in its natural color Is exceedingly fashionable and combines with the brighthued Bulgarian stripes admirably well. The handsome waist Illustrated shows the two used to advantage and is distinctly smart. The vest effect, produced by the narrow center front, affords an excellent opportunity for contrast and the arrangement of the tucks gives tapering lines at the back as well as the long ones from shoulders to wrists. To make the waist for a woman of medium sixe will be repulred 4!4 yards of material 21, 3? yards & oi 2ij

t Types cf

WHat Women All questions pertaining to subjects on which women desire information, religious subjects excepted, will be answered in this column. EicrfUe in Deep Breathing. ULI A: To strengthen the lungs, fill out a flat chest and to tone up the whole system, deep sji oreaining is wonaeriuiiy elec tive. A woman finds It very dif ficult to derive the full benefits of deep breathing if the exercises are taken while fully dressed, although she must do the best she can when out in th? open air. Spend a quarter of an hour or longer each morning and evening In a thoroughly ventilated room, before an open window and if possible be dressed in a gymnasium suit or a wrapper, and go through the simple exercises. Attired as suggested, the entire thorax will expand with each normal breath. The muscles must never be forced by haste or hard exertion, for the pulmonary tissues are likely to be injured. Do not be alarmed if you feel dizzy after a few trials of deep breathing but as soon as the feeling is noticed rest until the sensation passes off, then begin the rxerclses over again. Practice only for a. few minutes at a time at first and at r.o time practice until you are on the verge cf breathless fatigue. Stand erect, head and chest raised, arms resting easily at the sides., then slowly draw in a full gentle Inspiration. As the diaphragm descends, by its contraction it presses down the abdominal viscera immediately beneath It and thereby enlarges the capacity of the dust in that direction, allowing the lungs to expand. At the eame time the muscles of the ribs contract and draw them upward and outward. The chest being thus enlarged, downward by the diaphragm and laterally by the nuscles of the ribs, gives the lungs room to stretch out and expand, which they do. As the air rushes in, first the abdomen expands, then the sides and back and lastly the entire chest. When you feel that the lungs, are filled, gently and slowly exhale until the lungs are. empty. Then repeat the exercise. Never practice directly after a meal btit allow at least an hour and a half to elapse. Itciluriny "Weight Henlthf ally. Harriet: A successful reduction of weight, was that of a noted platform speaker. At forty years of age she was'quite stout and her bulk greatly Interfered with her work. Being a woman of determination she set about getting rid of the burden and at the end of a month the scales showed a reduction of four pounds, while at the end of six months she had reduc.J her weight twenty-five pounds. This was the way it was done: Breakfast was omitted and the time usually spent over that meal was used in the air, taking a brisk walk. On getting out of the bed In the morning, a quick sponge bath in cold water was folyards 41 inches wide with 14 yards of banding 5 Inches wide. A May Manton pat tern. No. 4tJ70, sizes 32 to 42. will be mailed to any address by the fashion department of this paper on receipt of 10 cents. PATTERN COUPON. For patterns of garment Illustrated above sni 10 ents co!n or lamp8.) Cut out Illustration and inclos It In letter. Write your name anl aiMre distinctly and atate number an1 ntze want!. Ad J res Tattern Dept., The Journal. Indianapolis. In1. Allow one week for return of pattern.

1 4 Pa 1111 Wmlß

Moderate Sire Want Know lowed by a brisk rub down. Then, clad in a short walking skirt, soft felt hat and comfortable shoes, she started out and walked briskly for half an hour. On returning home she engaged in her regular occupations until 1- o'clock, when a licht luncheon was eaten. This consisted of a small cupful of clear broth, broiled steak or lean chops, one vegetable, but never potatoes. Graham bread, fresh or stewed fruit or green salad. A moderate amount of water was drank during the day. but no liquids were taken at meals. Rich, greasy foods. fat meats, sweets and cereals, except in very small quantities, were strictly tabooed at all times. Sho confessed that for the first week she felt the need of breakfast greatly, and to overcome the faint leeling resorted to a glass of hot water sipped slowly on re turning from the waik. Since reducing her weight twenty-five pounds she has taken up breakfast again, but it consists of one baked tart apple and a very small piece of dry toast. The reduction seems permanent, since her- weight has remained the same for the past three years and her health all that can be desired. While this is a method within the reach of all. the change In diet should be more gradually made, for the radical change may be too severe for all persons. Trentlnts nn Ollr Skin. Emma B.: It is impossible to lay down any cut and dried rules which will apply to all persons similarly afflicted. While the the basis of action, it often is imperative to vary these rules to fit individual cases. For example, to say that warm water and soap should never be used but once a day on the face is absurd. In ordi nary cases of oily skin a thorough scrubbing before retiring with warm soapy water and cold or tepid water In the morning; and during the day will keep the face in fine condition, but when the secretion Is very great, as Is usually the case in young; or very robust persons, the warm soapy face bath must be used twice a day or the result will be an accumulation of hideous blackheads. To determine the need of th morning ablution, examine the face Imme diately upon rising. If a decidedly oily deposit is noticed, especially about the nose and forehead, visibly to the eye or readily felt with the fingers, use warm water freely following It by a cold rinsing, for the accumulation of waste matter thrown off during the hours of sleep must be removed. Two or three times during the day, when the face looks oily, spong or wipe it with a piece of soft linen wet with a solution of alcohol and water, a most excellent absorbent of fat and a good tonic if the alcohol is of the best quality. Two tarts of water to one part of alcohol is the usual strength, out it must b weaker If the skin smarts greatly after application. A few drops of one's favoritt perfume may be added if desired. The Art of Applying a Poultice. S. B. J.: When the, doctor advises th explication of a poultice the fastidious woman shudders at the thought of thJ mussy thing, and with good reason, for, as usually applied, the mass soon adheres to everything except the" right spot, and th annoyance and dampness does the patient more harm than the ioultlce does good. Try this plan and you will vote it a success: Take thin cheesecloth and make & bag long and wide enough to cover the affected spot; then make the poultice and pour it into the bag. using a wide-neck funnel to avoid soiling the bag. Fold th end of the bag over and sew with coars cotton thread. This will keep the contents of the bag where It will not bother the patient. Flatten the poultice out by patting it between the hands, lay next to the skin and cover with a wide band of flannel securely pinned in place. If th patient is restless, it Is wise to pin th poultice bag to the f.annel band, then It cannot possibly slip out of place. To assist in keeping the poultice hot. fill a. small water bag with hot water and lay outsid the flannel band. When a continuous moist heat is desired for some hours, fill two or three poultice bags and keep hot over kettle of boiling water. Keep plenty of dry flannel bands handy, using a fresh one a needed, for they assist greatly in keeping; both patient and bed comfortable and dry. DlniiiK-Hoom olea. Mrs. N. M. G.: Overfurnishing. like overdressing, seems to have tecom a mania with American housewives. The woman who must depend upon ordinary servant soon finds her household goods a nuisanc Instead of the joy she had planned, and energy and time is rpent In a ceaseless routine ot cleaning and rearrangement which might be pent more profitably in rest or in mtntal uplifting. If the multifarious possessions seem essential, com promise by putting them in the last tr4ublesome form. The modern dining room with open cabinets and plate shelves filled with china is all very beautiful but a source of slavery to mistress and maids, so do not furnish your home in this manner unless you are sure of an abundanc of good help at all times. Instead of exposing a mahs of plates, cups, etc., on open shelves, have only such ornaments as can be w-U cared for. Hear in mlml that the silver and the dishes In regular use means a good deal of work, so do not add to the work of yourself or sefvant needlessly. Invest in two or three chis cabinets with artistically leaded glala doors, and in thein keep the dainty china, out of the dust. Thla plan will save not only time but much breakage.