Indianapolis Journal, Volume 54, Number 80, Indianapolis, Marion County, 20 March 1904 — Page 28

THE INDIANPAOLIS JOURNAL, SUNDAY, MARCH SO, 1904.

PART THREE.

Occasional

Matters of Feminine Interest Household Lore, Beauty PHilosopHy, and Other Subjects in "WHicH "Women Are Especially Concerned

WOMAN may make herself supremely, beautiful at certain moments by the addition of "jewels to her toilet, says the Philadelphia. Record. At others she may bedeck herself with the splendors of the Golconda or the . De Beers mines and look quite cheap and commonplace! There Is a knack in comparisonlng one's person with jewels just as there is a knack In dressing plainly but correctly to attain the ultra modish. Too much jewelry "whether It be the genuine article or Imitation evidences a tendency toward vulgar show. People of wealth and refinement are never ostentatious in a display of their belongings. The society woman may glitter in resplendent tiara and sunburst at a cotillon, but on Chestnut street you will scarcely discern so much as a small diamond brooch at her throat. Jewelry Is for formal and semi-formal occasions. Outside of the few social functions at which diamonds and other precious stones are worn in the settings of rings, bracelets, necklaces or hair ornaments, the times when a woman may with propriety wear more than five pieces of jewelry are few Indeed. This little schedule will give you a fair Idea of how closely the lines are drawn In good rociety with respect to the wearing of Jewelry: Morning shopping, little or no jewelry, except rings. Morning calling, small articles, severely plain! ..Afternoon shopping, about the same as morning calling. Afternoon calling, one or two gold ornaments; few precious stones. Afternoon tea, several rings, necklace, bracelets, small pin for collar; precious stones not too much in evidence. Evening functions, as much as you please, within limitations apparent to good toe use. To wear ear-rings in the morning is a -great mistake. Putting them on tor the street at any time of day is a grave error, but in the morning they are simply impossible. By daylight a woman's natural fresh,ness is supposed to constitute sufficient charm. Diamonds look faded by daylight; they pale into insignificance for" the reason that there is no rich intoning of shadows .to offset them. The illumination by day comes from all sides and gives their reflection small chance for effectiveness. Darting back the rays from an electrolier, the diamond's scintillations are at their greatest brilliance. Therefore, reserve your precious stones for night. A woman who possesses more than five rings should not wear them all at one time that is, if she desires to make the best of her modest variety. It is good form to wear diamonds with an emerald, sapphire, ruby, topaz, turquoise, amethyst or pearl ring, but the mixing of rings in such color combinations as diamond, ruby, topaz and emerald is decidedly poor taste. Of course, you wear rings to be seen you would not concern yourself about them if you lived upon a desert island. Let the idea in ring wearing be rather that the hands call attention to their adornment, and hot that the rings attract the observer's eye to the direction of the hands. Bright color effects, brought about by wearing many different stones at one time, make the hands unduly obtrusive. . Large brooches containing precious stones should be reserved for afternoon and evening, while any neck or throat ornament that approaches the magnitude of a sunburst must be kept in its case until night. What more incongruous than a woman attired in shopping costume wearing half shabby gloves and with a startling cluster of diamonds at her neck! In cheap Jewelry there is the strongest temptation imaginable to overdo things. The designs in rolled gold ornaments are muny of them exquisite so beautiful in fact that it would be unfair to make a sweeping denunciation of them all. To people of refinement the thought of wearing anything but solid gold is highly distasteful. Yet It is no crime to wear "fake" jewelry. The enormoity of the offense lies In cultivating too much of It and wholly unpardonable In adorning the person with a blinding array of paste gems. Don't gather together all .the stick pins you can And and make yourself a human pin-cushion by stringing them down the front of your waist. Better one rich ornament than a miscellaneous collection of nonentities. Don't wear string after string of beads. The bead habit will grow upon you. More than oe necklace at a time is poor taste. The be?d chains now in style are charming. Wear a plain one morning or afternoon. Cut glass beads should not be worn in the daylight: many of these are truly resplendent and. like gems, show to advantage only by gas or electric light. Don t wear three brooches at one time, on the front and sides of your collar. This Is the latest fad. but It will scarcely commend itself to women of taste. An antique breastpin, either real or imitation, is in keeping with good taste. There are also many varieties of pretty medallions which look well for street wear because they do not come forward offensively. Dome tic Service Stigma. New York Tribune. "Women are blamed because they shun domestic service." said Rev. Anna Howard Shaw. "No one can have a higher appreciation than I of the lmortance and prime necessity of domestic service. It means so much to the health and comfort of the whole family. Rut I will say that so long as a stigma attaches to any work I glory In the fact that women will not do that work. "You cannot tell me that a stigma does not attach to domestic service. 1 have been

Finery

rnstor of a church. In the church, if anywhere, the stigma should be forgotten. Rut never, under any circumstances, will they give a hired girl prominence in any branch of church work. Never in a young people's society, in a missionary society, or any other form of church activity will they let her come to the front. They will take a girl from the counter, from the factory, on occasion, but, never from the kitchen, no matter how good or able she may be. "The -world extols the home and homekeeping in song and story, and then ostracises the woman who makes it her business. I do not propose to do any work that puts a brand on me. And I will not advise other women to do anything I will not do myself. If they wish to do it, well and good. I will not blame them if they do not. "I know my maid has a much easier life than I have. She doesn't work nearly as hard. She doesn't have nearly as much to trouble and annoy her. And yet she would like to change places with me; and I would not change places with her." Miss Shaw gave the last, and in some respects the best, of her series of lectures at Brooklyn Institute on Friday afternoon, before a large audience. Care of the Complexion. Grace Peckham Murray, M. D., in Delineator. "Indiscriminate massaging and steaming the face have somewhat gone out of fashion, but there are many instances where facial massage is of the greatest benefit. If the complexion is muddy, inclined to pimples, blackheads and other facial blemishes and the cheeks are without a good healthy color, it is well to use a complexion brush or facial massage to bring the blood to the surface. The light massage described in the last paper and used while washiug the face does not have very much effect on the muscular structure underlying the skin, but is designed for the skin alone. "To massage the forehead, the fingers of the right hand should be placed upon the right temple, with sufficient firmness to hold the skin in place, while the lirst finger of the left hand goes slowly and thoroughly with a circular motion over the surface, pressing at the same time deep enough to move the muscles upon the bones underneath. The next movement is to smooth with considerable pressure the skin above the eyebrows, using the first and second fingers of both hands, and in the same manner pass around the sockets of the eyes, always using the rotary movements. "One of the most useful movements for giving tone to the cheeks is that of gently pinching them with the thumb and forefinger, taking a deep pinch so as to have the muscles and underlying structures receive the benefit. Then place the palms of the hands upon the face with the fingers upward and bring them gently dowu until the fingers reach the chin; after wnlch, by means of the fingers pressed deeply into the fiesh. push the whole mass of the check on each side firmly upward. This counteracts the sagging of the face which in time takes place with almost everybody. The chin is next managed by means of the thumbs, the palms of the hands being placed upward with the fingers at the back of the neck. With a deep circular motion, the same as employed with the fingers in massaging the forehead, the thumbs gradually pass backward over the whole of the chin, while the first and second fingers of each hand with the same circular motion ' work among the muscles at the base of the skull and the upper bones of the spinal column. "Mo-Jt beneficial in the matter of giving tone to the chin and in reducing the ugly rolls of fat which have a tendency to accumulate, and which the tight stocks and collars of the present day exaggerate aro the following exercises. First throw the head back with sufficient fore to pull ail the muscles on a stretch. Then in the same manner twist the head first to the right and then to the left. A fourth useful movement consists in thrusting out the lower jaw as far as possible and bringing back firmly the corners of the mouth, putting all the muscles under the chin on a firm stretch." Murrled Women AVe Have Known. M. Wells, In New York Globe. For a long time I have felt tempted to write about married women I have known, and for a long time I have said to myself: "It is unfair to your own sex." But there are a few types so well known to the general public that I do not feel as though I was betraying secrets in writing this. For instance: There Is the woman who is forever sighing over her envirenmcnts and blaming her husband for them, and who incessantly bemoans a past attachment, for the benefit of her frier.ds, and when questioned as to why she accepted her present husband, says: "I was so sorry for him; or, I thought I might help him; or, he was so persistent that I married him to get rid of him." This is the type of woman who nags her husband to destruction, and whereas she was the only one wh pitied him before marriage, now he is pitied by all the world. She never mentions her former love to him. except in such a manner that he feels he has robbed her life of that everlasting bloom of love. When he at last realizes what a life he is leading her; and begins to fade away into the recesses of some club, it is she who goes around with an abused air, sobbing and sniffing stories of his infidelity to her friends. Would that the ducking-stool were again in vogue, and that I had the right to strap a couple of these plaintive naggers into the scat! Another type is the woman whose chief joy it is to spring a new disease on her husband at least once a week, and whose house is redolent of drugs; who accepts her lord's theater Invitations with the air of a martyr, and grieves because he admires some healthy-looking chorus girl; a woman who mopes and dopes and dreads fresn air as a cat does water; whose chief delight Is in regaling her patient friends with her latest attack of appendatonsilinflammatory illness and who lugs flannels and pills to all her relatives, and whose

Fashion's Decrees on What to "Wear; Gossip on Subject of Pretty Gowns

ONSIDERATION has been extended to the tall, finely formed woman In every department and feature of the spring fashions. If women who were plump and short had something of an inning two and three winters ago. they now are compelled to make up for it fully. All manner of stylish trimmings are applied in horizontal lines, and almost to the exclusion of vertical lines. This one point is a sore trial for short women, for such trimmings, if used freely as is the usual manner, have the effect of cutting the height up into section and so making a woman seem shorter than she really is. The consequence 13 that if the woman of moderate height and fair proportions is to escape appearing, as positively dumpy, she must avoid tho trimmings that seem to divide her off into several portions. Instead of the straight round-ahd-round trimmings, she may select those that encircle her in waves or scallops, and instead of unbroken lines, as in the simpler band trimmings, she may have every ornamental line interrupted here and there by some elaboration of the trimming. This last need not be at all complex to accomplish the desired end. For such vertical lines, on the other hand, as her gown may Include, she should aim to secure length. Let there be no breaks here, no matter how much opportunity may seem to exist for "relief." Don't relieve, but rejoice in every up-and-down line, no matter how indistinct, if only there Is considerable length to it. The one essential in new dress fabrics Is softner.s. a texture for which lace Is especially effective trimming, and the consequence is that the coming season Is to be one in which lace garnitures are to be valued very highly. All kinds of lace seem to be acceptable, though the coarser threaded ones are in a minority. Those of fine thread, however, are made in bold designs and often are combined with embroideries. Dyed laces retain their vogue, and seem likely to be used more than they were the past season. Threads of gilt or of color run ning through the lace are an especially stylish touch. Bright colorings will appear in the embroideries, passementeries and braids, and from some of the Kastern colorings in such trimmings the womeu who delight In rather bold hues should be able to make satisfying choice. Fringe, both the silk and the chenille, will continue in favor, appearing chiefly as embellishment for the flounces of skirts and as drapery for bodices. Braids present no end of novelties to the shopper, and the number of them that include touches of either gold or silver, or of both, is impressive. More than a touch is seen In many, too, especially as to the gold. Many braids are entirely of it. The softness aud lightness of the new dress materials are splendidly adapted to ruchings and puffings, and such treatment will be extremely free on stylish dresses. It promises to become the most marked keenest joy is in going to a funeral. In fact, the woman who makes a cynic of her husband and a nuisance of herself. May all the angels of which my mother told me protect me from the woman who constantly boasts of her father and ancestors. The woman who makes you distrust every person without a family tree, and who fixes her husband with a baleful eye when he mentions his old-fashioned mother and shudders when he refers to his father's Utile one-horse mill. In fact, the woman who demands homage on account of her father having been Senator Vearmount Myple. How She "Entertained. Washington Post. , I suppose there is nobody who doubts that honesty is really the best policy. It i is only the abnormally clever who can afford to be devious in their dealings, and even then they occasionally commit the unpardonable sin of being found out. It is a story with a moral that I would be telling, aud the heroine of it is a woman of extremely good family, who, for the past season, has cut a wide swath in society. I am convinced that some people have discovered a way of splitting their money in two and spending first one side and then the other, and that's what the lady of the story does, or she couldn't possibly make ends meet on her income, though that's nobody's business, for we ought all be so taken up with our own ends, chief and latter and the kinds that are so hard to make meet, that we had not time to Inquire into other people's affairs. People have entertained the lady, and she has returned courtesies in kind. Toward the end of the season, however, the social account ceased to balance, and she was, so to speak; in debt, when she asked nearly a dozen persons to a theater party. After the performance there was to te a supper at one or the hotels, and everything was to be elaborately smart. On the afternoon of the appointed day, the invited guests received hastily written notes from their hostess-to-be. She had been called from New York by the death of a dear aunt, and the party, of course, was off. In her haste and anxiety she neglected to say that the theater tickets would be waiting at the box office, but it wasn't to be expected that she would remember to say that, under the circumstances, and everybody felt as sorry as could be for her. Everybody kept on feeling sorry for several days, and everybody wanted to know about the deceased aunt. At length, one member of the party, which was to I ave been, met a cousin of the lady who was to have given it in market and asked questions: "Has Mrs. So-and-so returned from her aunt's funeral yet?" she asked. "Aunt's funeral!" said the cousin. "Why, my mother's the only aunt she ever had and she's been dead ten years. We aren't on speaking terms, but I guess I'd know if anybody in the family was dead. You must have misunderstood her." And so, you see, the fat was In the fire. The lady hadn't any more intention of taking those people to the theater than I have of sprouting wings. It was merely her way of squaring her social accounts without expense to herself. I imagine that when she takes time to think the matter over she'll wish she hid gone to her own funeral instead of to her mythical aunt's, and if. after that story, anybody doubts that honesty is the best policy, I'd like to hear from him. Moderate Exercise Best. Cleveland Leader. It does not follow that girls should not learn to swim because Ethel Goldin, the champion swimmer of the United States, died recently, aged only twenty-three, and a victim of excessive training. Because basketball, as well as football, has had victims there is no need to taboo the game. There is reason, however, to counsel moderation on the part cf the player, and to demand judicious oversight from instructors, teachers, parents or older friends. Many a girl whose outward appearance would justify the phrase "splendidly healthy" could not pass the ordeal of an examination for Insurance. Not a few of the most notable tf our athetlc girls of the period could tell of times of strange and

characteristic of summer gowns. So much of it Is used In many model dresses that very little of the plain material is left In sight. Puffings are made of silk, satin and of cloth, the last being put on very filmy materials. Button trimmings are stylish, and in some simple gowns stand almost by themselves, but more often are accompanied by other ornamentation. Medallions are admissible, tho.e of embroidery counting as very stylish and often appearing in the model dresses in conspicuous size and plentiful numbers. Nothing in the outlook, however, indicates such a run of medallion decorations as occurred in the recent rage for lace medallion trimming. Bertha trimmings will be employed in all possible veriety, and an inevitable consequence is that tho surplice bodice will be revived. Altogether the standards of embellishment for spring dresses are suggestive of elaborateness, whlch for summer seems likely to develop into very highly-wrought styles. Sample drcss-ups for spring are put in the first two of these pictures. Those gowns were sketched in brown voile, black velvet and fancy braid, with Irish point yoke, for the first; rose taffeta and dark rose velvet, for the second; light blue taffeta, guipure and fancy bandings, for the third, and gray voile trimmed with hand embroidery in a darker gray, for the last example. Both the taffetas and the voiles of these dresses were new weaves, markedly soft and pliable for the silk, and thin and open of texture for the voile. Taffeta is on hand in many novel weaves, but all have the softness that is a comparatively new characteristic for this silk. Silk pongees and weaves that resemble it very closely in all but the names are shown In attractive array, and Chinese and Japanese silks make their usually attractive showing. Crepe do chines have had decided favor for so long that novelty is not a reasonable expectation of them, but some of the figured sorts are new enough to satisfy any sensible craving for novelty, while the standard weaves are pretty enough to insure their having many purchasers. In voiles, particularly of the thin-, ner weaves, are many downright novelties, and this fact explains the confident prophecies given first many weeks ago, that voile is to be one of the foremost dress fabrics of the coming season. Recently shown are gayly stripped sorts, with now and then a plaited weave. Next in importance to these, perhaps, are the linens, which are to be in high favor for summer dressing. There are brand new weaves among them, too, despite the fact that they were to the fore last summer. Silky finish is characteristic of many of them, others show lace striping and still others present surprises in openwork designs. This showing will repay attention, for not only are the linens stylish and pretty, but with no great care in selection a sort may be secured that surely will give excellent return for the investment. So much rarely can be said of fabrics that are fashionably In the leadJ The bridal gowns of the coming Easter and spring will not be very noticeable for newness except in their lace trimmings, which will be more than usually profuse. Fashions in the bridal costume do not undergo frequent radical changes, and this spring the available materials and embel

WKat Literary pwk I'lii xvu&uiiiu, X 11-!., xuuuu inuic is I la club composed of graduates ot III.-' T.- 1 T" A Fl,llÄ im lilts Ullciuiituqud VI LCI a l J oim Scientific course, who have seven seals on their diplomas, each seal being a mark of some special course of study completed. It is the outgrowth of a very prosperous Chautauqua Circle, which every year graduates members into the Round Table. There are at present thirty-six members. The meetings are held once a month on Saturday afternoon, so that teachers of the public schools may not be debarred from belonging if they so desire. The programmes are much the same as those of any other literary club, at every meeting light refreshments are served, and the guests linger for social conversation. The last programme consisted of two papers, one on "Modern Prose Writers." and one on "Who Writes Our roetry?" The present officers are: President, India Martz; vice president, Mrs. J. N. Jackson; secretary, Mrs. L. C. Hass; treasurer. Miss Anna Ward; recording secretary. Miss Anna Collins;, organizer, Miss Mary Winfield. Detroit has a new $50,000 women's clubhouse. The Century Association, of which a number of prominent women are members, built the house, a handsome structure of brick and stone with a heavily tiled roof. The interior is very satisfactory, Flemish oak being used throughout. A large library, a tea room, and several parlors, a dining-room and kitchen occupy the lower floors, while above is a very large assembly room with a stage and a polished floor for dancing. A number of artists' studios are on the north side of the building. It is expected that every woman's club in the city will, in time, use the building for their meetings. Already the income promises to be ample. The Chicago Woman's Club, always to the fore in its good works, has arranged to hold a conference April 1 and 2 on "Woman in Industry." The six departments of tho club are art and literature, science and philosophy, education, philanthropy, home and reform. The other com frightening depression, mental and physical. It is trite as true to say that young persons can overdo outdoor exercise as readily, and with nearly as evil results, as they can overdo dancing or party-going, eating or drinking. It is well to disport one's self in the open air; to walk, to ride, to play golf or tennis, to row, to swim, and. if conditions are proper, to hunt. It . is ill to refuse to use in snorts the moderation demanded In studies, in social, in domestic duties. To the heart and lungs of each of us is set a maximum of work, beyond which lies the danger line. In young womanhood, especially, there can be an overexpenditure of nerve force, consequent upon muscular competition, that has as a resultant condition distressing always, oftimes dangerous. Moderate your transports in your sports as in your duties. Silly atnens. Youth's Companion. One hears so much nowadays about hygienic housekeeping and sanitary matters generally that it seems impossible that any woman who can read ordinary printed matter can fall to have some knowledge on this important question. But for all this it is certain that the woman whose housekeeping may be described as "nasty-nice," and whose methods are of fifty years ago, has by no means died out in the land. She lingers here and there with her old-fashioned prejudices and preferences. She prides herself, it may be, on the fact that every article of clothing of herself or her children taken off at night is carefully folded, one piece upon the other, before she gets into bed. This is a piece of folly

lishments are stand-bys. The lavlshness of lace trimming permitted is indicated by the pictured bride's dress, which was white mousselline de soie and alencon lace. In this picture, too, are a low-cut gown of white figured lace net over black silk, with a spangled lace bertha and black silk fringe for trimmings; a blue velours chiffon, shirred and finished with guipure yok edged with jet pendants, and a gray voile trimmed with passementerie and embroidery, both in black. These black trimmings on gray materials will be one of the up-to-date touches of spring. A great many handsome, dresses, some of them easily of the elaborate grade, are made from solid color materials with little other trimming besides the goods itself than lace. But self-trimming is often along complex lines, so this feature does not tend strongly toward severity. The lace sleeves supplied to such dresses are very rich, and often are of such elaborate pattern that no observer would think of the dress as simple. The uses of braids on the brief jackets that arc to bo so stylish for spring are very pretty. Wide bands of the braid edge the fronts and supply cuff finish for the sleeves, or they may follow the seam of the sleeve. Often, too, a band of the braid passes over the shoulder. Ordinarily there i3 trimming to match on the skirt. There may not be a lot of it, for it seems more in line with the stylish trick to have the major portion on the little jacket, but a little mates the two portions of the suit very tastefully. Pieces at the hips or just below the belt, or at about the knees, will suffice. These little jackets are going to be a considerable factor in summer dressing, and already makers are competing in the Jauntiness of their output of them. It is some twelve years since the Eton suit was so generally worn for rough and ready service as to become almost a uniform. The present situation is directly the opposite, or will be as nearly so as the designers can make it. The jackets are going to be worn generally, but they will be as varied as ingenuity can make them without resorting to unique elaborateness. Girdles are retained with the short jackets, and must have the most careful preparation, as the jackets expose them to view so much. Much diversity prevaila in them, and the range is from plainness to match the skirt and bodice to complicated arrangement that is in contrast with the rest. Finish of tiny bows is seen at times, again the front is held by a sizeable buckle, but usually not a very showy one, and tiny buttons make a stylish finish. For dressy gowns the girdle may be more complex and Its colorings more Impressive. Thus the little bows that finish the girdle in back may extend in an unbroken row to the cut-out of an evening bodice, or the girdle may show two contrasting, colors. "Whatever the nature of the dress, the girdle usually stanfls alone. It may not be in striking contrast with all the rest, but rarely will be found matched in any other portion, nor does it often, as lu the evening dress mentioned, unite closely with another part. This is noticeable in dresses of bright colored stuffs, where contrast is found only at the throat, the lower part of the sleeves and in the girdle. At the former two locations the trimming will match, but the girdle will be like it only in color. New York, March IS.

Clubs are Doing mittees, particularly the third, fourth, fifth and sixth, have gone into the question of woman in industry more or less exhaustively, but with regard to art and literature, as it represents the economic and financial status of woman in literature, design, music, the stage, journalism, decorator, and the artist-artisan in arts and crafts the club, wishes to secure information which covers the facts needed, and to that end send out a circular to business firms, theatrical managers, designers, music schools, decorators, publishers, heads of newspapers and magazines, asking the percentage of women employed, salary and so on. Women will be interested in the answers to these questions. A Massachusetts paper says: An excellent resolve has been taken by the State Federation of Women's Clubs; that Is, to concentrate its efforts this year on two lines of work, "stamp savings" and "the tramp evil." No one will question the desirability of fostering the one, and striving to delete the other. Thrift and the discouragement of vagrants should ever go hand lu hand, and since government is squandering the riches of the country in every way,, it well becomes the pecple to show what home thrift and economy can do to defeat and discredit official waste. Stamp savings has been the subject of the care of thirteeu clubs of the Massachusetts Federation, and this is to be fostered as much as possible. The tramp evil Is a most serious question in every city, town and village in the United States. The tramps is discouraged by nothing but work aud an honest life; he will cheerfully walk across the continent and count it nothing more than a holiday, excursion. The social service committee of the State Federation is at work getting all the advice possible from organizations that make the tramps a special study, n order to begin work intelligently and Is sending a list of questions to club presidents for local facts. It is Intended to get statistics from every town In the State if possible, asking what (local) provision is made for tramps; how cared for; the yearly proportion of vagrants, the amount of door-to-door begging and other pertinent questions,, ending in the request that the members of the club addressed strive to abate the evil. What the present Legislature will do about it is problematical very likely nothing. exacted by elders In past days a remnant of old-fashioned early Victorian tidiness Almost better the methods of the average man who flings one garment here and another there. At least they get some chance to ventilate. It is better still when clothes are separated and hung for the night near the open windows. Then there is the woman who prides herself upon the fact that her bed is never seen unmade; that before she goes down to breakfast ,it is Immaculately remade, with its French bolster and its starched "shams," and its interior, alas! still warm. It may be a radiant piece of furniture, but all the same it Is a fustj-, unhealthy sleeping place. Then there is the housekeeper who goes out against dust s if she were a. Loudon policeman and dust a street gamin. She has but one idea it must be "moved on " aud so with a Happing cloth or that ridiculous household utensil, the feather duter she stirs it up and whacks it from place to place, but never learns to gather it up Into a soft duster and remove it to some place where it will not be rebreathed. The care of clothes lu a closet is another matter often mismanaged. Everv one knows how quickly wardrobe.? grow fusty, and the happy day may come when architects will manage some method of ventilation for cupboards other than by occasionally leaving the doors wide open. In the meantime, if all clothes are perfectly cooled and aired before they are hung up, and if they are carried out from time to time aud hung in the open air for a few hours, this difficulty will be very largely met. The lives of women who keep house will be simplified and sweetened when they all learn to "use their brains to save their bodies."

Samples of What Women All questions pertaining to subjects on which I women desire information, relizious subjects I excepted, will be answered in this column. . Removing Facial Linen. LSIE: The deep, drooping lines which run from the nose to the chin are the hardest of all wrinkles to eradicate, especially If they are largely hereditary, as is often the case; then it is almost impossible to remove them entirely. Again, the formation of the face has much to do with the depth of these lines, or it may be a force of habit of expression has set them unusually deep. Although the facial operator may have one or more of these causes to contend with, regular and intelligent treatment will surely reduce the unlovely lines, if directions are carefully observed and followed with system. At the same time you are working try and discover any habit which may be deepening the lines, and endeavor to correct it, for this will facilitate matters greatly. A pure skin food is invaluable in the work, used in combination with the massage. To protect the delicate texture of the skin from grime and render the pores more, effective, it must first be prepared to receive the food by a face bath of hot, soapy water, foVowed by a thorough rinsing In warm water to remove every trace of soap. Then begin by anointing the deep lines generously with the cerate. Remember that you wish to build up, hence the pressure must be light and of not too long duration. The first movement consists of kneading, to tone up relaxed muscles. Pick up the flesh on each side of the lines, between the thumb and finger, and gently press it in a slightly rolling or clawing motion. Go over the entire length of the line two or three times, then perform an upward rotary movement, keeping the skin moistened all tfce time with plenty of the cerate. Lastly, place the finger tips on the temples and with the thumbs placed just forward of the lines smooth and stroke the lines crosswise, upward and backward, toward the ears. The results, after a few weeks of this treatment regularly dally, will be most gratifying. Developing Muscles of Shoulders and Back. M. F.: Properly to develop the muscles of the shoulders and back rhythmic exercises are required; massage alone will not bring about the desired results. First of all learn to stand correctly and to do this practice before a mirror until you are sure of yourself. Balance the body firmly on the balls of the feet with the chest raiged and the abdomen drawn in. After a few minutes of deep breathing, which should al ways precede and form a part of the exercise, you are ready to begin the shoulder and back movements. If you prefer to use light wooden dumb bells do so, although they are not essential. Stand erect with arms resting lightly at the sides, palms against the legs and raise the arms upward simultaneously. When the arms have been raised to a level with the shoulders, turn the palms upward and continue to raise the arms, bending them at the elbows bringing the closed hands, palms downward, over and six inches above the head. Then force the arms backward, which will be tiresome at first, because the muscles are weak, but after a few trials a feeling of elasticity will result which will be most pleasant. Then bring the arms downward with elbows still bent and the upper arm straight out from the shoulder; continue to hold the arms as far backward as possible while you are counting ten rather slowly; then repeat from the beginning of the exercise. The movement may be continued for a half hour or until tired. Do not over-exercise the muscles at first. If the muscles feel sore rub thoroughly with equal parts of alcohol and tincture of camphor; after you have practiced for a week you will not need the application. Always bear in mind that If the arms are allowed to Come too far forward, which is a much easier movement, the upper arm will receive most of the development and the beneficial effects greatly lessened, especially on the back muscles. Value of the Sponge Dath. Majorle: There is much confusion regarding the proper method of taking a sponge bath and of the effects of such baths. Strictly speaking, a sponge bath is performed without soap, cold or tepid water being used according to the needs and vigor of the patient. As a detergent the effects of the sponge bath are "merely superficial, consequently should never be confounded with the cleansing warm tubbath, as It can never take the place of the latter. The main reason why some people cannot endure a cold sponge bath is because they do not take It correctly. The usual plan is to apply the water in dabs, finally getting the body dripping wet and then quickly and only partially drying it. Result, chills and colds. A cold water pponge bath should always be taken in the morning and never at night except in very warm weather. If the shock of the cold water is too great bgin with tepid water and after a week gradually use cooler water until at the beginning of the third week the water may be used as cold as It comes from the faucet. As a stimulating exercise the sponge bath has no equal, for it gives tone and energy to the skin and perspiratory organs, promotes excretions and secretions and tends to equalize the circulation of the blood. To obtain beneficial results the cold sponge bath must be rapidly performed in a moderately warm room and be followed by a very brisk rub-down.

Dressy Get-Ups Want Know This Is essential, as the ratient must experience a decided feeling of warmth as soon as the body Is dried. If some light exercise or a brisk walk can be Indulged in immediately after the bath so much the better. The beneficial effects of the cold water sponfte bath will soon b apparent la increased energy and a clearer, brighter complexion. Five o'clock Tea. Dorothy: Successfully to entertain your friends informally on Sunday, I would suggest that you provide something more substantial than the conventional tea and wafers. These are all very well when ladies only are present, but a big. broad-shouldered man never feels quite so close to a "sissy" as he does when attempting to hold a fragile bit of china and look unconcerned and happy while nibbling a tiny wafer. He may put up a splendid bluff and vow serenely that he is having the time of his life, depend upon it, deep down in his heart he is longing for a big cup of coffee and a sandwich of generous proportions and doesn't care a rap whether it is the proper thing at a tea or not. So if you would be a popular hostess, provide something which the men can enjoy, or the house will know them no more. The refreshments should not be of a character to spoil a relish for dinner. Such dainty sandwiches as chicken, cheese, minced ham, nuts and whipped cream may be varied by the admixture of finely chopped parsley or a crisp lettuce leaf moiitened with a rich mav.in. naise. StutTeil d.ite. salt1 mit rnr. wafers make a tempting addition, and fra grant tea ana conee served with rich cream may complete the menu. Have plenty of everything in readiness, the sandwa3 kept cool and moist until the last md?e3 and the drinkables piping hot. The table must be as dainty as fine china, glass, silver and Fpotless linen can make it, and a vase or bowl of cut flowers will add to its attractiveness. Treating Calloused Spots. Golfer: The woman who is fond of outdoor sports must bestow a great deal of care upon her hands if she would retain th dainty feminine softness po much admired. The calloused spots on the hands are directly caused by the hand coming in contact with the unyielding substances or by hard rubbing. The friction caused by holding a golf stick, a tennis racquet or coach whip and reins is quite as detrimental to the texture of the skin as any of the homely household duties. Hands which are manifestly disposed to a calloused condition must be protected by heavy gloves at all times when one is engaged in exercise or work which requires much muscular exertion. A clever girl who disliked a bungling glove hit upon the idea of selecting easy fitting gloves of heavy kid and neatly applying a lining of chamois skin across the palm. By catching the edges into the seams of the thumb, fingers and sides of the glove no ugly stitches were visible in the kid. while the protection of this soft lining saved the hands from unsightly spots. In addition to this precaution the girl never neglected a daily inspection and thorough treatment of the palms to keep the rosy color unmarred. After holding the hands in rather warm water for ten minutes, to soften the skin, any suspicious yellow spots are rubbed with pumice Ftone, Just enough to wear down the thickened skin. Thea a good emollient is rubbed into the spots and then over the entire palm. The result is delightfully soft hands. Irregular Teeth in Children. Mother: You need not feel alarmed If the second teeth of the child come in irregularly, as, in the majority of cases, they will become more even as growth advances. Sometimes this irregularity of growth lu due to too much crowding by teeth which should be removed; a dentist would recognize such cases and set the matter straight. The enspid or eye teeth should be closely watched to prevent the new teeth from coming in above the normal position. In some families this tendency seems to be hereditary, but it can usually be averted by prompt measures. Fully developed Irregular teeth can te straightened, but the process is both tedious and painful, as the teeth are loosened and then held in the new position by some plastic substance until firmly established. The time for this process is from three to six weeks,- according to the location of the teeth and the number thus replacc-d. This work should be intrusted only to a skilled dentist, for in the ;ands of one whose knowledge of the optTtion was doubtful the nerve might be Injured so that the permanency of the teeth be Jeopardized. In skilled hands the operation is quite successful, and the results warrant the cost and brief discomfort. The Newest Taffetas. Olga: Waterproof or cravenetted taffetas are the newest Imported silks designed especially for the shirtwaist suit, which will b; ns popular in town ns at summer resorts the coming season. From point of beauty and utility this silk is a decided triumph of the manufacturer's art. It is wonderfully soft, conforming to the prevailing modes and so practical that the most exacting cannot find fault. Moire effects are numerous among the choice samples, although small pinhead dots, checks and fine striped patterns predominate. The full scale of blues figured with white are presented and also many lovely greens, browns, gray and black, all more or less broken with white. The smartest suits have a short skirt, either side or box plaited, tailor finish, or a plain gored skirt trimmed about the foot with stitched bands or taffeta. The very ! newest decoration consists of milliner's folds set on In graceful scrolls to simulate braid. The folds are made of plain silk to match the prevailing color of the figured silk from which the gown is made. Smalt ruinous oi c UK ur kui nie useu iur laxieo. ins and ornuraentlng- the waist and skirt.