Indianapolis Journal, Volume 54, Number 66, Indianapolis, Marion County, 6 March 1904 — Page 37

SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH tt, 1904.

l3tiößQ5ttietii(MJ5ßtc6eper5 of Japan ESO By Mary Gay Humphreys f

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HEN O Yen San. the Hon

arable Miss Dollar, cut the;

iuiiai, v. u L Hit, tender, young onions for tender, young onions for tori-nab!, hc as inevitably sKcca thun diagonal M Bridget them in tubular sections. Hut what a difference between the-c oval, gra dated rings, revealing the delicate shadings and attractive anatomy of the onion, ar.d Bridget' chunks! Thi symmetry and beauty oi color in some t hai, .U t beauty bcl re the onion gave up its jr laiisiicu kj i en s instinctive scn-e o

i or and -cent to the bit- oi chicken drinkers nervous, ami other matters that made up one wu.i- w - 1 r i , oi the best of Japane-c dishes, our, While bpcaking oi articles of food, tori-nabi somt t"er things arc worth mcntionI know of no better illustration ofing Öne oi lhce i: Dcan curd the fundamental difference between the SSV a, th.at k

Japane-e and the Wc-t than this aethetic treatment of the onion. O Yen was our handmaid, but she drc-scd in silk, and the hair drc-ser came twice a week. When .-he put a flower in a va-c, WC were painfully cohaciou of awkwardness and barbarm taste. She had a dainty cabinet. with little drawer-, her own little lacMticr bows, pale blue china, and sake jng, her own hibachi or brazier where she prepared her own food, and when this was reaIy she squatted betöre her six-inch high tabic, arranged about her the little bow-, or rice, .soup, and her condiment-. got out her ivorychop .-tick-, and ate like a lady. Nothing ever disturbed the elegance and dignity of this routine. When She Ate Her Evil Smelling Daikon" Certainly, -lie had a way of sucking in her breath that put our teeth on edge, and we tied the hottSSj when she ate her evil smelling 'daikon," a lng white radi-h. which al-o would make i -kunk remark, ' there's no u-e in living." But sucking in the breath is Japanese etiquette for respect and appreciation, and when 1 intimated anything derogat r to the daikon to a Japanese acquaintance, he commented it ur lively cheese. Thus the races keep tab on one another and suppress vainglory. But 1 silently reflected that a foreigner cooking and eating alone Would soon come to serving himself out -,f sardine boxes and baked bean- from the can. The root of this difference seems to lie in the fact that in the Orient houseping is almost the only profession open to women. This is why they arc so expert and pleasing in their mcthods. From the Empress to the maid there is but ne law. In the handbook, which every Japanese woman knows by heart. "The Code of Morals i r Women." No. 16 of the eighteen article- reads: Though a woman have many servant-, it is the rule of women that she do all the business herself. She shall sew the clothing and cook the food of her father and mother-in-law; she shall wash the clothing and sweep the mat of her husband, and when she nurses the child -he shall wa-h the linen herself. Women shall always live within the hou-e, and also not go out without any bu-iness." O Yen's Artistic Household Pots and Pans This i- not mere verbiage. It seems also to account for the household utensils beinc so beautiful. O Yen's 1 in vvhirh the honorable hot : v hiv , hi ......... i hnilerh i of bronze with wave-like formation- in fine gold lines .. i. i iiv w - p - t-icr with wnicn sne manatreher coal- arc ot carved brass. 3hc ( UIIRS IIV I 11V. i f hr n.-p m a near co mm :rthn di-li with black whorls that i -et directly on the coals. The cooking of rice, as we know it. is a performance, hit or.jpiss Oriental rice i- always perfection. Each vzrain is whole and dry O Yen put her dih on the fire with water enough to cover the rice. When the water was boiled out the rice was done. Rice i mre to the Japanese than brcarf la to us. Etiquette demands three bowl- of rice at a meal UptoDate w IN PIUS lesson instructions will be given for I making waists with tucks, gather- or pleats from a plain shirt-waist pattern. The illustration shows one with three deep tucks going over each j ,n.A inrvinc toward- the cen MlUUlUi i uu jivjp - ter at the wait at back and front. These tucks may be converted ino box-pleats by opening and refolding them, or the extra amount of mate rial allowed for them may be used in gatherIn the 1 ttter case, there arc usually a few gathers also at the front of the

n,s is moistened with tea or soup,

Sfti? .C?1.11 5? S rfl',, lYmo.st' cv" r v 'tr " As Mr. YYegg would sav. 'it mrllrr the organ." It is worth noting that the Japanese do not make it with boiling water. The water is allowed to lose it- tir-t fervor, so that the tannin is not extracted. Nor doe- the tea stand. The pale, greenish liquid is nmmuiumj uuitu UU. 1 Ills IS DrOD--.hiv whv th. ,i... JZcL Z. -uccu aim irieu iikc musli, with soy tor a davor, lhi- curd is so nutritious and so cheap that an American who lives in Japan Migge-ted it- being introduced into this country as a food. Soy is a brown liquid made from the black bean and 1- said to be the foundation of Worcestershire sauce. It enters into almost all cooking, and most agreeably. Once being in a remote corner of Tokio, the hour for eating arrived. It was impossible to get home in a couple of hour-, liui hunger inspires courage, and seeing a restaurant with the unusual sight of a carcass at the door, J took OH my shot - and entered. A number of men were squatted about. The sight of a foreigner and a woman was, indeed, a novelty. The whole a-semblage Look an active ami genial intere-t in my luncheon, giving tinmaid advice and suggestion. lic brought my mat and a brazier of coals on which was a patina that might have come from Pompeii, it was so lovely. In this she placed sonic wafer-like slice- of meat from the beef at the door, and pouring in the soy. Lsive me some brass tongs and left nie to cook it myself, while she arranged my little table nnd brought my bowls of rice soup and relishes. It was charming, a meal to be remembered, and meat thus cooked in soy something Japanesy" that we might well import. It's Worth While I to Cultivate the "Nuta" Salad Another dish worth cultivating is a salad, though cooked, called "nuta." This is made of clams, rape tops and onion with a sauce of bear, paste, rice, mustard and soy, rubbed into a brown liquid.' These dishes, including a sponge cake called castello, and supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards centuries before, every Japanese woman, whatever her rank, is supposed to Taiow how to prepare. As they use neither milk nor butter, from our point of view, their kitchen is handicapped. Another peculiarity of the Japanese menage is that there is no common table. Each person has his own little table and separate dishes. As many different people, so many different dinners. In this manner the wife and daughter of even a "daimio" might serve her husband or a guest without great labor. In even the highest families, the daughter of the house is expected to get up earljQ air the futons on which they sleep and the night kimonas and put them away, sweep the matting. help with the dishes, then go to her sewing, while the wife acts as her husband's valet and looks after the . . comfort of her mother-in-law. The women of the house do all the cr - f .L 1 sewing. ine women oi ine nuusa may inciuae a coupie oi uchk, o, The Crown wncs unucmuun.?. Prince of Taoan is the son ot a 'mekake," but was formally adopted by the Empress, who is childless. All the world, even the new-born baby in Japan, wears the kimona, and the fashion never change. There is no elaborate making of undcrgar ments; they do not wear them. K petticoat is a straight piece of stuff wound around the body, and if more warmth is needed, wear two kimonas. Sewing, however, i- carefully taught.

Tips for the Home Dressmafcerßy Rosa E. Payne-Waists With - r !... . , , ., .ft.' .1 m. t : i . 1. 1 1 a. I

neck, to make the fulness extend all across the front of the waist. This is very simple to cut out, although most amateurs make a mistake in allowing for the fulness, with the result of misfitting shoulderTo allow for fulness on a line at an exact right angle with, say, the selvage or lengthwise edge, it is only necessary to extend it further in the same direction. But where it has the least slope, it will, if this is done, be at a i t more acute angle, wnen gaincrcu, than the original pattern, and consequently will not it To mcrea-e the length ot the sloped line and guarantee that the longer one, when gathered, will lie exact to the original slope, it is only necessary to keep the comers parallel. Diagram show the front pattern placed on the material at six inches from and even with the selvage. The other points, A, B and O, are carefully meas ured straight across from the original ones A six inches. B and U respectively four and a quarter. The shoulder line is redrawn from D to the new B, and, when gathered, will be exactly to the original line. From B to O the lines are identical, because at that part of the neck edge there must be no gathers; and from O to A the small curve is extended on the same plan as the shoulder line, and will be COT fact when gathered. The margin is used for turning under, and such a waist is u-ually made to hook invisiblv down the middle of the front, the opening being concealed amid the fulness If the waist is to have a pleat or titched band down the front this is allowed, and the gathering from O to A may either be dispensed with or there may be iust l little beyond where the edge of the box-pleat will et. On no account must the side of the neck be gathered, or it will make an ugly little puff.

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(Copyright ix4. ly Mry Gay Humphreys

When a large amount of extra width is added to a front for fulness, it is as well to fold over a piece of the lower edge of the pattern, as illustrated by E, to reduce the width at the waist. Judgment must be used, as what would be a bulky amount in flannel or thick linen would not be at all too much in chiffon or anything of similar texture. For an ordinary amount of fulness, six inches are usually allowed from A to A, about four and a quarter being apportioned to the shoulder and the remainder to the front of the neck, as in the diagram. The amount measured may vary, but the manner of tieasiiring and keeping the points strictly level is invariable. This applies practically to pleat-, but for these the edge has to be zig0ACAM ) zae in order to make it perfect when completed. It is. therefore, better not to cut the shoulder in a direct line. Diagram I. shows the shoulder sections cut for tucks. They are an inch wide. Each tuck will, therefore, take up two inches, the three nece--itate -ix inches extra being allowed from B to B. The easiest plan is to allow the ex

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A 'Ü1 Y r UU I sJ M tra amount, and draw the direct line as for gathers, but to cut a good turning above it. Then arrange the spaces in the following manner: Measure along the line one inch from the neck and three-quarters from the armhole corners. From each of these points mark off two inches for the first and third tucks; mark the center of the space remaining, measure one inch each way for the middle tuck, making them equal distances apart. If a shoulder should be too small to leave at least half an inch between the edge of one tuck and the stitching of the next, it will be prettier to make the tucks less wide. Arrange them in their respective folds, either pinning or tacking. Then lay the plain pattern on the inside and carefully cut only the paper under and between the tucks by it, after which cut the tucks themselves straight acro-s from the stitching points. Do the same for the back, when the line will appear as in the larger one in Diagram 2. The material is, of course, cut carefully to all the zigzags, and in this way the shoulder edges may be stitched before th tucks are made. If the seams are well pressed, the effect is infinitely smarter than when the tucks are stitched before the shoulders are joined, in which case they often do not meet nicely. The illustration shows three tucks down the upper parts of the sleeves and three around the lower parts. As a rule, they are made less deep than those on the waist, three-quarters of an inch being ample to be in accordance with the inch ones. To allow for these, four and a half inches (one and a half for each tuck) extra are required respectively on the width and length. Diagram 111. shows the plain shirtsleeve, and the necessary increase at the fold for the lengthwise tucks, ex

7

If m li i.V. FEEDING THE D-

The Baby's Good and Bad Luck

All the world over the mother has mieer superstitions about her baby. Here are some of the queerest of them from the four corners of the earth. In Roumania the infant's ankle is bound up with red ribbon immediately after birth to ward off evil spirits. In Ireland, for the same reason, a -trand of woman's hair is placed in the cradle. Garlic, salt and bread are placed in the cot of a newly-born child Jn Holland. In the West Indies the negroes follow the same custom as the women in Roumania, but their ribbon is blue instead of red. If they have no ribbon, they make a mark with washing blue upon the child. In Russia there is a superstition that I baby and a kitten cannot thrive in the same house. One is sure to pine away and die, so pussy is always driven away as soon as a baby comes. Mösl Englishwomen think it is extremely unlucky to carry a baby downstairs before it is journeyed upward. If the baby is born on an upper floor, and there are no stairs to climb, the mother must hold her darling high up in the air, standing upon a chair or table, and only then can tending the top edge from its highest poittt, a- illustrated. It is as well not to curve out the under part until the tucks are placed, when the whole top edge may be revised to match the pattern. To allow for the tucks around the lower part, extend the length or drop the corner by the fold, if preferred, as the tucks will give a certain amount of stiffness and keep the sleeve out, so that a little extra length at tfie back of the wrist may be an, advantage. The middle tuck down the sleeve should run from the shoulder top, and the others at equal distances on each, side of that. Those around may cither be tucked in parallel line- with the lower edge, or straight around. If the former, it is nece--ary to run them from the un der side of the tuck to gradually ease the larger part on to the smaller one. when they can be made to set very satisfactorily It is almost impossible to do this it they are run from the upper side. The wait. illustrated, does not fasten down the front, but under the first tuck down the left side. Therefore, in order to cut the fronts' out from the pattern obtained, as shown in Diagram 11. the right one must have a fold down the center. The over lapping part should extend to a two inch margin beyond the first tuck marked on the diagram by an arrow. The left front needs to be cut a turning beyond the seam of the first tuck,

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3 I03 SS&U.W. COC00N5. it be taken downstairs in safety. This superstition is also common in France and Germany, and even in some parts of this country! Another English superstition is that the baby who does not cry when it is christened will have bad luck all through its life. If the infant insists on being good, the mother pinches it to make the cry come. In Spain the women say 'that' a baby under a year old should not be allowed to look in a mirror; otherwise it will grow up proud and haughty. Most mothers are very much alarmed when their babies fall out of bed or off their laps, but in India the women think it is an excellent omen. In Ireland there i- a -imilar superstition, which says that unless a baby falls out of bed four times before it is a year old it will be a hopeless idiot. mvas Checks Popular for House Accessories. Mosaic toilet mats, table scarf.-, -ideboard cloths and many house accessories are made of canvas, which fines in checks. Blue and white is a favorite combination. It is quite a fad to place a few cross stitches of white on the blue check?, and vice versa, when the embroidery is all done. This gives the star effect. Tucks, Gathers t-I l- ii, . wwicu i inarKcu uy an arrow and a star. The middle of the back is placed to a fold. I t is as well to make small notches on the shoulder edges to indicate the tops of the lines for the tucks, or to chalk or trace these part of the way down. In making the waist, the first thing is to stitch the right shoulder seam, and the left one so far as it goes. Then make all the tucks and press them all well. Gather or pleat the -mall, plain piece at the back waist and fold the pleats a little farther over each other. Place and stitch a narrow band of the material over this, just where the waist line comes. See that it is short enough to draw the back tautly down and secure a tape or ribbon on to each end of the small band to tie around the front. Set the overlapping part of the right front carefully to the left Moulder, at if to stitch, and fold under the edge of the left front, so that it will ex ...u:i. r 1 1 1 . actly fit under the first tuck and over the margin allowed. Sew hooks under the left edge, and make it neat with narrow ribbon. Face the right one and sew straight eye- under tri tuck as near to the seam at posStble, and close together. The alternative is to turn the margin on the right front edge quite under and hook it over the left one Make the shouMer hook clo-ely, at if earned. There arc several ways of finishing off the tucks according t the smartness desired. There may be several row- of stitching, the thread u-c d being of a contrasting color to that of the material. A pretty effect may he obtained by a piping made in a bright color which harmonizes with that of the materia! The piping mutt be made of bias strips, stitched close to the cord Then, placed under fhe tuck, the latter is stitched on its edge to the piping,

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A JAPANESE TF2A. This Is the Biggest Family on Earth A West Indian scientist has lately bet n making investigations into the family life of the green fly, a plant parasite whose fertility eclipses that of all other living crcature He asserts that a single green fly will produce ninety young, all fertih females. In a few days each one of these ninety will produce another ninety, each equally capable of replenishing the earth. During the summer, about eleven generations of this, interesting creature make their appearance. It will, therefore, be seen that at the end of the season .' e progeny of a single fly would number, barring accidents, three thousand one hundred and thirty-eight trillions two hundred and five thousand nine hundred and sixt billions nine hundred Thousand mil lions. The accidents that prevent this consummation, devoutly not to be wished. t;.ke the form of lace wing flies, lady birds and other birds, and. happily, hundreds of other natura! causes. If ten green flies should weigh a grain a by no means moderate etfh mate its descendants in the eleventh degree would weigh no less than ne hundred and forty-five billion tons. A Christian Japanese Statesman. In no country in the world is there more complete religious toleration than, in Japan. It. is not general known that several of the high officials in the Mikado's service are convert -to Christianity. The president of the Lower Hoiise of the Japanese Parliament, which SSM recently dissolved because it censured the Cabinet for not being mre vigor ous in the negotiations with Russia, i--one of the leading member- of the Presbyterian Church in Japan. His name is Rataoka Kenkichi. At various stages of his political career, his friends have urged him t resign his church offices, in order that he might promote his public career, but he has consistently refused to do o. His career has seemingly never suffered: he i- to-day one of the leading statesmen in Japan. Novel Opera Glasses at Last For many year- Dame Fashion hat adhered t the stereotyped mother-of-pearl opera glasses, or the lorgnette, white and gold being the favorite. Now comes an innovation which will please women who have an eye for color. A pair of opera glasses seen recently was of violet porcelain, and the mount ings were silver. Another pair was of red porcelain, drlicatcly mouoted with pearls and silver filigree. For Milady's Writing-Room. Cocoanut fibre scrap baskets are the latest novelties for the writing-room They are made in the shape of a large jardiniere, and are rich in coloring. The fibres cross and recross in a labyrinthine design which is most at tractive. A large bow of ribbon iv tied around the basket and attached to one side. or Pleats . and then once or twice inside th;.t again. This makes a really effective trimming, and the collar and cuffs may be made to match, simulating two or three tucks done in the same way. The sleeves, when tucked, are made just like ordinary plain ones. It is always smarter to make the wristbands fit snugly, which generally implies fastening. For a trimmed band it is usually sufficient to leave about an inch of the sleeve seam open. This must be neatly hemmed. Either hook the band edge to edge, or sew buttons on one edge and make straight loops along the other. Where buttoning through seetm more desirable, make a small open ing at the bacic of the wrist in the sleeve, and place the ends of the cuff or band there. Al ways set the great er part of the fulness to the back of the wrist. Many people experience great difficulty in setting a sleeve into the armhoje. The seam OMGKAmUT should be about two and a half inehes in front of the side seam of the waikt In tacking in the under half, hold the armhole to au the sleeve away from you, and reverse the order for the upper half, when the sleeve should be eased. If there i fulness, don't place it all to one point, but let it gradually lessen from th shoulder tip equally each way. In the waist illust rated, the effeit of the tuck overlapping the -houlder I seam is very becoming.