Indianapolis Journal, Volume 54, Number 66, Indianapolis, Marion County, 6 March 1904 — Page 28

TTTE INDIAN PAOL1S JOtMiNAL, St' N DAY, MARCH , 19(14. TART TlTTtEK. AjsK-JPLIÄ CT m BS Kiyf"" Fashion's Decrees on What to Wear; Gossip on Subject o Pretty Gowns

'nFi Women 16

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In Newly StylisH Fabrics and Trimmings

Matters of Feminine Interest

Household Lore, Beauty Philosophy, and Other Subjects Which Women Arc Especially Concerned

11 F YOU haven't a stomach, have J one made. If you nave a stom ach. have It unmade, for. unless your stomach Is the correct shape you can walk stiff-kneed until you're paralysed, but you won't have the correct form." vigorously announced Miss Elizabeth A. C. White, president of the Dressmaker' Protective Association, to an audience of mild-eyed women at the opening session yesterday of the fourth dressmakers' convention, in the Masonic Temple, according to trw New York Press. "Oh, you needn't look at one another in that critical way.'' continued Miss White. 'I know who has 'em and who hasn't 'em, and you all need to be fixed over. Now, you," pointing her finger at a stout woman, whose waist was only a sad memory. "I can give you the most approved 'Grecian bend." teach you to 'weJX on your knees, but I'll have to get you Into a straight front first, fastened down with my new safety." The stout woman, looking almost green, pushed her way out rnrough the throng of eager women and waddled, with all the dignity she could command, straight for the door. Her exit was so hasty and so pronounced every one turned to look. "She'll come back. Don't you care," said Miss Wnite. 'Til get her into a good-tlt-ting one. She feels delicate about well, about her lack of a straight front. She has too much stomach. It sometimes affects them that way." With a quick movement Miss White turned to a slight girl, took her around the waist and said: ' Why. you have no stomach. You must have that fixed at once. Now" with a graceful courtesy "look at me." She was clad faultlessly in blue. There was a murmur of admiration as Miss White wheeled lowly around to be observed. Then she "stood on her knees." She explained she really meant "standing on common sense." "Your feet?" said she. "Why. they're only appendages, for you all stand on your knees." Tnis was a point for the uninitiated to ponder, and more than one fair brow was wrinkled. "Now. I declare!" said a portly woman from Jersey, her admiration forcing her to speak. "Mary Ann!" calling loudly to her daughter. "She has no stomach at all. Do you suppose your father would know your mother if she went home with all them curves?" But Mary Ann refused to venture an opinion. Miss White whispered to the New Jersey woman. "You be sure to come to the corset demonstration." "Indeed I will." said Mrs. Jersey, "but I do wonder what Mrs. McOee will say when I try to fix her Easter dress without a stomach." A woman got out pad and pencil and asked what the "safety." to work in harmony with the straight front, was like. Miss White gave a long, technical explanation, to which the questioner listened, bewildered by the number of fastenings. Seeing blank looks on the faces of many of her auditors. Miss White shouted in strident tones: "Bring that leg!'" The leg was brought, nicely covered with a black silk stocking. Caressing it, the president said: "This little pocket Is for the safety garter." Tnen the glad light of knowledge dashed across the faces of those who had been mystified about the uses of the "safety." "Now. where are those garters?" demanded Miss White. "I can show you so much better than I can tell it. Bring me those garters!" shouting to a girl who was passing. But while the garters were being brought the presence of a man was discovered by some spinsters. They quivered with indignation. There stood Miss White with a leg In her arms, and a man watching! This discovery caused a mild sensation, and with one accord there was a right about face movement, a break in the ranks, and without waiting for the garters the objectors hastily left the group. Some hurried out of the Temple and others found shelter In the rooms where the Imported gowns were on exhibition. These had come frm prominent French modiste. Perhaps the most striking was of white net. with steel trimming and flowers embroidered in lavender. The net overdress was worn with a green slip, and the Mending of green with lavender gave a beautiful effect of freshness. This elaborate robe was an evening gown with a long train, and having wide flounces on both skirt and waist and a wide girdle of green at the waist. Men's Demands I pnn Woman. New York (Jlobe. "Men are constantly growing more and more exacting In the demands they make of women to be Interesting." So said Rolf R. Taylor, a broker of Chicago, and well known In society here, now at the Netherland. He was inspired to make the above remark last evening through two friends who were airily discussing with him the Increasing number of divorces and unhappy marriages in America. Continuing; Mr. Taylor said: "Young men and old men, too are not half so simple as they were, and they demand modern improvements in all things before they rind them satisfactory. A tireworks show of twenty years ago would be ted a poor display to-day. Men who - 1 t hoi,! .tigress tremulous with eagerness to catch each word that fell from their lips have lived to find their rising the -ignal for a general exit. And so It is with the weaker sex. The young woman who in this year of grace possesses Just the amount of intellectual attractiveness which would have sufficed to make her Interesting years ago will meet. I am sorry to say. with much disappointment She must enlarge her stock of attractions Just as she herself demands that hT customer shall march with the times. "Personally. I must confess my inability to pass an hour pleasantly away with an uninformed woman. 1 have met many worn-

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en who are not quite sure whether, for inmaiice, tu. i niiiK'ii is 01 lo uui lilt- ppcciwi of the House of Representatives, whether Mr. Chauncey Depew is not .a celebrated general, and whether Tom Piatt is not a light of the Roman Catholic Church. Only recently I heard a woman parajyze a whole company at an evening party by her confession that she was unacquainted with Mansfield's or Jefferson's acting, as she never went to variety shows. But. of course. this Ignorant woman is not frequently so brilliantly ignorant as all that. I do not mean, understand me. thafa girl hould be a prodigy of learning. I have never yet heard of a man who gave a young woman te Encyclopedia Britannica a a present, id if one did I have my suspicions as to the use she would apply it. Be that as it may. most women to-lay betray an ignorance of passing events which was marvelous in beings who had the advantage of living in an age in which there existed even stich scanty educational facilities as newspaper bulletins. Now. at an expenditure of a cent, she can possess herself of her own dally newspaper, and she can read as much as is necessary in half an hour. But where can you find the woman that can talk with even a fair degree of intelligence on the Japo-Russian war? Few of them can tell you offhand where Russia or Japan is situated. That's a fact. Of course, a fellow cannot tell a young woman that. In spite of all her worthiness and goodness, she is, through her unaequaintauce with common worldly matters, a very wearisome companion. He would be a brute if he did so, however emphatic his opinion might be upon the point." Art of Cake Making:. Good Housekeeping. The ingredients, which, to produce fine cake, nust be as good as the market will provide and the purse allow. It is impossible to make nice cake when poor cooking butter and stale eggs are used, the strongest vanilla extinct will not down such flavors. Besides good butter and eggs ha', e pastry flour, first-class baking powder, good granulated sugar and a flavoring that stands at the head of its class. If inferior baking powder is used, your cake will either be full of holes or heavy; as for poor extracts, they either evaporate altogether or your cake has a queer, unwholesome flavor, which stays in the mouth after it is eaten. If you cannot afford good materials for cake, substitute wholesome gingerbread or crisp cookies. Before I touch on recipes I want to emphasize some of the other secrets of good cake. One of them is an oven of proper temperature. I am now using a gas range and I light both burners ten minutes before the cake goes in. This gives the necessary heat for layer cake, which must be raised quickly and baked quickly. When baking a loaf cake or sponge cake reduce the heat, for they should bake slowly. The cake must go in the proper place in the oven, always In the lower shelf. If you could watch cake baking you would see the tiny bubbles that have been obtained by beating the eggs and the cake mixture, also the gas liberated by the wetting of the baking powder, grow larger and larger. As they expand by the thousand they are gradually, as a cook calls It. raising the cake. There comes a moment when they have expanded as far as it is possible, then the cake ought to begin to crust and brown. At this point the heat penetrating the mixture begins to transform the bubbling batter into the feathery substance we call cake. The last portion to bake Is In the center, because there has been greater heat around the sides of the pan. Whether cake is well baked, you may tell by pricking it with a toothpick in the center. If it comes out dn the cake is baked, if it is the least bit sticky it requires longer baking. An excellent rule to follow while baking cake in a gas stove is to run two burners till It Is fully raised, then turn out one and allow It to finish be king slowly with one burner. Cnjoymcnt In w York. Town Topics. "There are so many Inexpensive ways to enjoy oneself in New York! Just seeing things is an inspiration. Now, one can go shopping. Of course, it isn't necessary to buy things. One can just ask the prices and watch other people buy. The salesgirls never know that you do not intend to buy anything. It's a good way to see the latest fashions. The really swagger people always shop at 10 in the morning, and. save on matinee days, the actresses in the afternoons. I find out Just what the smart women wear and then I get the same things at the cheaper shops. There are people who make a profession of copying, you know. Oh! there are many ways of getting the latest cut. One can always have things sent home on approval, and then take the pattern. Well, as 1 was saying, pleasures are many right here in town. "There are the fashionable cafes. I find it quite as satisfactory and not nearly so expensive to lunch at home. Just before stSJtnagJ out. and then to go to a very aristocratic lunch place (where the 4D go, and where they have music just for a cup of tea. The price of tea or coffee is twice what one would pay at the department store lunchrooms, but it's such a gratification to be seen in a select place! I always try to get a seat by the window, too. Then 1 there is the 4 o clock parade. Now it isn't always that one feels like hiring a cab for one's afternoon drive, so there is that dear old Fifth-avenue bus. Oh! yes. really nice people do ride in it. While in it the other afternoon I saw two beautifully gowned women. They sat opposite me. and they spoke so familiarly of New York s Upper Ten that I'm sure they were of that set. Since then I've come to like the bus immensely, and I ride quite frequently in it in the afternoon. It BOSS so slowly one can see right into the faces of the people in their victorias What do I do in the evenlacs? Why. I Just go over to the Waldorf, where there is a constant stream of fashionables from every city, and I see more style and hear the music at the same time. It doesn't cost a thing, either. But I'll teli you what 1 did see there the floorwalker of a little shop on Fourteenth street Really. It's getting too cosmopolitan. I Just love the Waldorf stationery, though. I write nearly all of my letters there. There are so many things like that lu New York.

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ARCH brings much study over shirtwaists and of the pretty suits named for the waists, but consider iug howlarge an item these garments and suits are in summer wardrobes, there is little in the new ones that is outright new. No lack of popularity for them is hinted, yet there are few changes of fashions in them, no change that is at all radical. Shoulder slope is aimed at, but that is not uew. and in all the simpler waists there is no novelty about the ways of suggesting it. In some shirtwaists of the fancy order there is a yoke, usually reaching over the round of the shoulder, but there is nothing strikingly new about this, and simpler cut is more favored. The number and variety of fabrics offered for waists and suits is as large as it was last season. Practically all summer stuffs are available, aud the lack of new features in the waists themselves may result in some straining effort after novelty in the material chosen. Suggestive of this are waists of scrim, with no pretense of being anything else, but embroidered with crossstitch in colors. Negligee attire is especially a timely consideration Just now, and ranges all the way from what should fairly be classed as wrappers to affairs hardly less fine than evening dresses. Many tea gowns are of the latter class, and are the product of very skillful makers. There are simple tea gowns, too, and no end of simple Jackets. In fact, the Jackets themselves are usually of simple construction, the look of especial delicacy and elaboration coming in most cases from liberal application of lace and ribbon. In this is an unescapable hint to economizers, for more than half of the seemingly elaborate negligee Jackets can be made at home by any one with fairly practiced hand. Among the new fabrics are some very sheer ones, and others of remarkably loose weave. Gauzes and veilings are especially filmy, and silk foundation for them is an absolute necessity. The shopper is confronted, too, by many fabrics of basket texture or of mesh apparently but little removed from common burlaps, and finds that these stuffs are advanced as new and at the prices usual with unfamiliar fabrics. Softness and pliability are noticeable In practically all the new silks, and the range of colorings is large, with little to furnish surprises. Figured silks that seem especially attractive after a winter's supply of bold designs are delicate of tracery and if one just knows about them. One can live here, and well, too, on really quite a small income." The Club Troasurership. New York Mail. "You say that you are a possibility for the treasurer's office, my dear.'' said the club woman, repeating her friend's remark. as they ate their ices together at one of the club functions. "Well, I'd rather you than your humble servant. I've been through the mill. I'll take any other olflre for the good of the sisterhood. If I am called upon, but I draw the line at the treasurership. Why? Just because, my dear, we women haven't got over taking things in a personal light yet. Perhaps in a generation or so we shall, hut Just how the collector of dues, fees and fines is a sort of female Ishmael, with the difference that her hand, instead of being raised against every other woman, is thrust into the pocket of her fellow-members. A purely official dun is regarded as a deliberate personal affront by some delinquent members. "I know that Mrs. I'nowho has slwajl been cool to me since I called her attention to a by-law regarding the dropping of members who were behindhand In their payments for a length of time she had long exceeded. Did she pay up all right? Oh, yes, or she wouldn't be a member now. I had a check from her the next day. with a letter saying it was the most unaccountable tbing what had become of the other checks she had sent previously; that she was the soul of punctuality in the payment of her debts In fact, a perfect crank on the subject, etc. But but she did not speak as we passed by till she accepted a chairmanship at one of the fairs, and she wanted me to work on her committee, for I am a bom hustler, if I do say It myself. She burled the hatchet, but it is in a very shallowgrave, and there's no knowing when she may disinter It and go on the warpath again." "Well. Washington's birthday is coming, and hatchets are in order." laughed the other. "I guess I'll risk it." "All right. And some day 1 11 have the satisfaction of saying 'I told you so.' " Odds and Kndt. Wine or flavoring extracts should not be added to dish or sauce until cold. If put in while hot much of the flavor passes off in steam. When frying cold potatoes first slice them and dredge quickly with flour. This causes them to brown quickly and also improves their flavor. If an egg' is broken and not required at once for use. stand it in a basin with a little cold water over it. and it will keep fresh until wanted for use. Put a metal spoon or fork In a glass or china dish before pouring hot water into It. The metal conducts the heat away, and the dish will not crack so readily. After drinking tea. coffee, sour or anything which has scalded the tongue, hold some milk in the mouth for a minute or two. when the unpleasant feeling will have entirely disappeared. The best way to prepare canned salmon for the table is to remove all the bones and place the fish in a stewpan, adding a pint of milk and allowing it to come to a boll. Add a piece of butter the size of half an egg and salt to taste. Then roll two or three soda crackers to a tine powder and add just before taking the salmon to the table. Ham toast makes a dainty breakfast dish. Melt in a stewpan a small piece of butter. Put In .is much finely minced ham as will cover a large round buttered toast and add as much gravy as will make it moist. When quite hot stir one egg In very quickly with a fork. Pour the mixture over a piece of toast from which the crust has been removed. Taxi ni; l Heart. In that heart realm where Cupid relrns. My heart remained a rbel province Ion; And vowed to keep its selfish gains Of love, and happiness, and song; Never to pwy love revenue Whence Cupid's governance accrues. There came a queenly messenger Who would extort the dues my proud heart owed. t'ould it refuse to welcome her Who promise of such gentle ruling showed? She asel unhindered thro" the gate Demanding tribute from that state. My heart made her a tyrant there. And paid her all its store of hoarded love. But O. felt richer then, by far. Than aught but angel-trodden realms above. Hut should she leave, that state would fall For ah, has all, u &h. has all'. John Paul.

not assertive, in the matter of color matings. As to colors In these materia, while it ts asserted positively that all the current offerings will retain good standing, and that there will be no especial favorites among the many shades, yet it should be noted that some of the new violet shadings are advanced persistently, and that grays art likely to renew to the full their recent favor. Browns, too. although many do not like them for summer, as being too warm coloring, are here and there in all manner of materials. It would seem as if they must count as newer than the violets and the grays, and so win acceptance from those to whom newness is the first consideration. Some of the fine calling and reception dresses being worn now are, in effect, spring styles put on trial. Some of the wearers of these fancies might be indignant if charged with being the subject of experiment in this way. but more would be flattered. And of course the new reception or calling dress is entirely suitable to its purpose, no matter how much of advance fashionableness it may foretell. Such get-ups are of especial interest for this look-ahead they furnish. Four gowns of the reception sort are put in the first two of these pictures. The first was irridescent blue taffeta, one of the new silk weaves, and was finished with chantilly lace and hand embroidery in white. Next comes a gown of mauve English satin, with guipure yoke and chantilly ruffles. Let it be noted here that for spring and summer two or more kinds of lace will often be employed on the one gown. The next one of these dresses in the pictures was a princess affair of pink silk, the skirt box-p!eated. the yoke tucked white chiffon, with bertha of embroidery. At the right of this is shown a cream white silk, with shoulder caps of white lace and with much heavily beaded embroidery. Embroidery for the summer is much marked by raised designs and by weight generally, this even on materials of very light, almost filmy nature. There is to be a deal of perforating, too. the edges finishtd heavily and in wavs that will employ deft fingers for much time. Crossstitching in color is to be a favored form of handwork, and what is styled Bulgarian embroidery is to be very stylish. Embroidery will be as much favored as ever, but its winter use on velvets hardly will be continued. Chiffon velvet, for example, will escape this ornamentation. It Is so finely adapted for shirrings that much of other embellishment is hardly needed. An example of It set for spring copyists is at the left in the third of these pictures. Here the chiffon velvet was plum colored, and the yoke was white silk and passementerie. The continued stylishness of voile is impressed on the shopper everywhere. Here are shown two handsome dresses of it; a gray, with eluny lace and bandings, and a fuschla. with embroidery of black cord and ruchings of black tulle. The newer weaves of this fabric are remarkable for openness and looseners. The walking suit for spring may be of tweed or cheviot, both of which are at hand in a variety of natty mixtures. The suit may be finished simply with stitching, or may be trimmed with hauls of material

Doing's of Literary Clubs

S" I J I.- I- , , I TT".-.-. a 1 1' i iiiu i ill' t-1 1 1 1 k ' i tor- i i i - I I nightly Club, of Fort Wayne, SB 1 ma . a a a.1 aionnay ntgnt occurrea at me home of Dr. M. F. Porter. Mr. L. M. Nlnde presented a paper on "The Historical Side of the Louisiana Purchase." closing with an extract from the Hon. John W. Fetters's "Hundred Years of Diplomacy." The members engaged In a spirited discussion which went into many phases of the subject, particularly that concerning expansion. Most of the memb rs indorsed the course of events bringing into American influence the islands acquired from Spain. Rabbi Cohn, who leaves for his new charge in Omaha, was present for the last time and was given a tribute of esteem by resolutions accompanying a copy of Senator Beveridge's "Russian Advance." The Helen Hunt Club, of Cambridge City, Ind.. formed fifteen years ago for literary study and mental culture, has adhered closely to scholastic work, which will compare favorably with any college or university work, along similar lines, in the State. The study is systematic, vet varied enough to prove acceptable to the diverse talents of the thirty ladies now forming the membership. Varied in their social and church Interests, but one In their literary aim, this very variety makes the association of these ladies more delightful and compels a broader outlook upon all subjects. With its own library, which is rapidly assuming valuable proportions, and this energetic membership, the club is enabled to do more and better work each year. The Woman's Club, of Newcastle, enjoyed an unusually pleasant meeting at the beautiful new home of Mrs. Carson. Thursday afternoon. Feb. 25. The meeting was a social affair given to welcome the two new members. Mrs. Faulkner and Mrs. Slough. Patriotic responses to roll call were followed by the singing of "The Star-spangled Banner." The members were then given an opportunity to tell what they knew' of the "father of his country" by answering a series of questions that tested their acquaintance with Washington biography. A game introduced was "The Finding of the Hatchet." A hatchet made of stiff cardboard and painted with the stars and stripes was pinned to the curtain. Each guest in turn was blind-folded and placed about ten feet from the hatchet, turned around three times, given a little silk flag and told to go and pin it on the hatchet. The guest who placed her flag nearest the star on the hatchet received the first prize. The rooms were draped with flags and the national colors were carried out in the refreshments. The singing of "America" closed the afternoon's programme. The Clio Club, of t "onnersville. held an open meeting at the home of the president, Mrs. Frank Hopkins, on Tuesday afternoon, a large number of guests being present. A paper, 'The Great Movements Which are Making the World Better." was given by Mrs. Florence Hapner. A poem on "How Modern Science Proves the Bible True." was read by Mrs. James Kby. Both productions fhowid that much thought had been given to the respective topics. Mrs. A. J. Salyers then gave a historical sketch of the club, covering eight years of club work. A conversation on "Nature's Best Gift to Mothers." followed, conducted in a very creditable manner, by Mrs. Edward W. Ansted. After the close of the programme a pleasant social hour was spent. The Current Literature Club, of Rockvllle. met with Mrs. Charles Overman on Thursday. The subject under discussion. "Myths," proved to be of unusual Interest. Fach member of the club gave a noted legend. Miss Mate McCaine set forth the origin and prielpal superstitions of the day. This part of the programme was prefaced by a very interesting talk by Mrs. Connelly on mythology in general. A paper of unusual Interest, written by Miss Mary Overman. "Myths and Mythmakers." was read. AM present felt that a pleasant and profitable afternoon had been spent. Lincoln. Neb., is certainly a club town. With a population of something over 40.0UÖ the Worqan's Club membership of 643 is remarkable. In acknowledging the $.vi assessment paid in recently to the General Federation, the Ureas orer. Mrs. Kmma M. Van Wehten, was moved to Inquire what method had been used to keep so many women interested in club work. "Please tell us how you do it?" she wrote. The answer was significant. The Lincoln club women always have one practical object to work for outside their literary work and they never

matching one color of the mixture. The latter method is productive of very attractive results. Mohairs are stylish for this use also, and will be serviceable as well. Among the woolens for walking suits are many rather indistinctive plaids and checks, both of them pretty and especially-well adapted to the finish of stitching. The s .- all. d homespuns are offered, too. perhaps because no field of dress is to be without its stvlish open weave. Considering how high a value is put on the appearance of softness in finished dresses, the use of braid is surprising, both for the number of gowns showing it and for the lavish ness with which it is put on some of them. But it should he remembered that braids have changed as materials have yes. have become proportionately even soi'fcer. Consequently a beautifully pliable material may be trimme, 1 with a braid two inches or more in width. Such trimmings are a stylish finish for tailor suits, and when put on a gown prepared with some degree of elaboration are employed with a very free hand. Gold braids are found in surprising widths, too, but the danger point with them is not a look of stiffness but a confession of a lack of taste. The gold trimmings should be used rather sparingly, and careless employment of these wide gold braids will be likely to suggest the barbaric. Much of the gold trimming goes to make some military finish, usually rather faint in its suggestion. There's to be a run of this sort of thing for summer, for the young folks at least. So epaulets and frogs will be generally used. A deal of the gilt is o mixed with something else that it is ssjfr from gaudinesSt even when the trimming is used freely. Thus the more stylish passementeries often have gilt threads showing here and there. and the shopper will find anything she wants between the all gold and those in which the gilt is but I speck almost lost In the greater amount of white or color. Gold is present also in embroideries in impressive quantity. Much embroidery is of the raised and filled sort, and cloud-like materials now and then seem almost over-

Weighted with such embellishment. Fringes are goiug to continue their winter vogue to judge by the quantitie s of them on the shop counters. The narrower sorts seem in the lead. For dressy get-ups Tuchings are to be a much favored means of ornamentation. I-ace trimmings become of greater value when sheer fabrics are seasonable. Model dresses suggest with some force that there is to be a whimsical fancy for the use of heavy laces on delicate fabrics and of filmy ones on firmer goods, but this notion need not worry those who at first thought do not approve it. Such may follow their own taste in lace and be stylish without trace of f reakishness. The showjngs of dress goods include much that conveys an impression of extreme thinness, but for the real thing In counterfeits of the cobweb, consult the neck arrangements provided for summer evenings. And you may be sure that they will be seen of spring evenings, too, for they already are in the stores in quantities, and ar- altogether too fine to be held in hand until spring is over. Lace, chiffon, muslinanything not over the feather's weight is shaped in stoles and boas, often with cape-like arrangement for the shoulder, and all made elaborately, but with everything meant to suggest airiness and delicacy with the utmost strength. Spring wraps of weight sufficient to afford warmth to their Wl arers are unusually varied, though not making so marke-d a showing in this respect as the winter outsldes did. But considering the season there are many long wraps. Yet these are outnumbered by short ones, which end anywhere from just below the waist to Just above it. They range from snug fit in back to boxiness ail around. New York. March 4. have more than one. The fall and early winter months are needed to develop a plan, according to their calculations, and the spring is profitably put in concocting and considering new schemes. The largest thing acompüshed by the club is the high school lunchroom, established last year. Ön stormy days over 400 students patronize the room, and there is an average attendance of over 300. A good, hot luncheon costs about 7 cents. This charge covers the cost of the food as well as all other running expenses of the lunchroom. LIBER i V SATIN Liberty satins share the honors of the season with foulard and are eminently graceful and elegant. This one is white, with waved lines of ecru and dashes pt brown and is combined with white chiffon and cream lace. The waist is a charming one and includes both shirrings that give the broad effect, and shoulder trimming, which Intensities the drooping line. The skirt is cut with a front gore and circular sides and is lengthened by a graduated shirred flounce. To make the waist for a woman of medium size will be required 37 yards of material Li, J yards II or 1 yards

Spring Fashions What Women All questions pertaining to subjects on which women desire Information, religious subject excepted, will be answered In this column. J Hair of Fever Patient. DA Leading physicians have admitted publicly that the old theory of cutting the hair of fever patients has long since exploded and is now rarely practiced by prominent members of the profession. While everyone has more or less knowledge, gained from experience or hearsay, concerning the detrimental effects of fever upon the hair, comparatively few know howto treat the hair after an illness so that it may be largely retained. Of course, there are cases where it seems almost impossible to prevent great loss of hair, yet, on the other hand, careful and prompt treatment will oftentimes have a most beneficial result and save the patient that distressing "reconstruction period" which ensues if the hair is cut off. The direct cause of the loss of hair during fevers is that the unnatural heat parches the second layer of skin, or cellular membrane, containing in its cells the coloring matter which, seen through the cuticle, constitutes the color of the skin, and the third or lower layer, the cutis. from which the hair springs; deprived of its natural oil aud moisture, the hair withers and falls. Brush and sponge the scalp thoroughly to remove the dead scarf skin and cleanse the pores. Then rub the following tonic into the scalp daily, manipulating the scalp with the finger tips in a soft punching movement to excite active circulation. To four ounces of castor oil add eight ounces of best Jamaica rum, thirty drops of oil of lavender and ten drops of oil of rose. Shake well before applying. Brush the hair gently after treatment to remove all loose hairs, which are so irritating, arranging it loosely to admit the air freely, which will greatly assist in restoring normal conditions. Ventilation at iht. S. B. L A delicate person finds it almost impossible to admit sufficient air into the chamber at night without catching cold If the window is kept open after retiring. A much better way of ventilating the sleeping room, admitting plenty of ai without distressing results, is tq change the air before retiring and then, by leaving the window open a few inches, it will keep quite pure all night. For an hour or two before retiring have opposite windows open AND CHIFfON 44 Inches wide, with yard of chiffon and ij2 yard of all-over lace; to make the skirt. 1.; yards 21. 11 yards 21 or 6 yards 44 inches wide. A May MSJiton pattern of waist, No. 4t47. sites H to 40. or of skirt. No. 4375. sixes 22 to 3U, will be mailed to any address by the Fashion Department of this paper on receipt of 10 cents for each. PATTBRN Col PON. For patterns of ;.jimpnt illustrated aboy end lu centfc teoin or stamps.) Cut out illustration and Inclose it in letter. Write jour name and. address distinctly and state number and stss wanted. Address Pattern DspC. The Journal, Indlar apolis, Ind. Allow one week for return of pattern.

Offered Tentatively

Want Know and if possible an equal distance from the top and bottom, and thus permit the fresh air to rush in. The room may seem cold, but the air will prove all the more Invigorating to tired nerves. Shut off the heat partially and depend upon it you will feel 50 per cent, better the next morning. After a few weeks you will be able to stand more air during the night and you will shortly be puzzled to understand how you ever lived, much less rested, in a close, hot room at night. It is safe to say that one-half of the women we meet are simply starving for fresn air and if they would throw away their pill bottles and headache powders and exercise freely in the open air for at least two hours daily they would feel like new women at the end of a year. Nature cannot be cheated, nor can impaired forces be r. stored by swallowing medicine every time warning pain and illness overtakes the oftender. SewinK I nmpliLM. J. V. S. Why the doing of needlework, in moderation, and ill-health are synonymous is a mystery, unless the worker is careless as to her lights. Long evenings can be passed pleasantly and profitably in sewing if the conditions are favorable. otherwise it is a case of burning the candle at both ends. First of all, a clear, steady light is essential, and the more the better; it should be shaded so that the full rays will fall directly upon the work in hand, for this relieves the eyes of any strain incident to a glare. Flickering gas is perhaps the poorest and most trying of all lights, unless it be an unshaded electric bulb, which is simply ruinous to sight. The best of all lights for night wrk 's the good old-time lamp well filled with kerosene oil, the well trimmed, blaze covered by an immaculate chimney and shaoed by an opaque white porcelain shade. 1 am fully aware that it is neither an artistic nor up-to-date law p. but it has the merit of being' highly pra tlcsl. which cannot be said of the lamps with fancy colored globes and shades which mask the light so completely that close observation is impossible. Having settled the question of light, use some judgment in the selection of the material on which to sew. Do not attempt t4 work on black or on very dark colors; red is particularly trying to the eyes, as is material with fine stripes or checks. Reserve such goods for daylight work and, at night, work on white and delicate colors as much as you can. By right planning the different colors can be made up under the best light and thus save much needless exhaustion, changing from one color to another in sewing at night will sometimes prove very restful if the eye are becoming tired. Hints for mi. hi Folic. Marie When a woman is hungry a I the time and is constantly increasing in weight it should be self-evident that she is eating too heavily. Begin at once to rigidly enforce self-control if you hope to keep within bounds as to sise. Very healthy persons whose digestion is perfect undoubtedly feel hunger acutely and are Inclined to eat more than is wise or needful, with the ides, in mind that they need it or because it tastes so good. Such people lose sight of the fact that a morbid appetite for food can be created and Increased by overindulgence just as is the case with liquor, and that eventually overburdened nature will exact a penalty in a superabundance of flesh or. it may be. in some serious organic trouble. To eat three heavy meals each day with glasses of milk at night, and then walk I mile dally to reduce flesh, is about as effective as feeding a fire with a generous hand th n trying to extinguish the increasing blare with a puny stream of water. Self-control is the first requisite In reducing flesh. By all means take the exercise, but curb your appetite. Decide upon a common-sense basis as to quality and quantity, selecting the diet with due regard to its value to the system, avoiding sweets, fats and starchy foods. By beginning at the root of the evil, the danger Of obesity may be averted. It is suggested that you join a gymnasium class and practice faithfully under a competent teacher; or. get a punching bag and pulley exerciser, using them two hours daily. For outdoor ex p is walk two miles dally or play golf or tennis, if preferred. ftcnioon I)re for Thesler. Country Girl Just what a women should wear to a matinee performance depends largely upon the mode of conveyance, whether he goes in a carriage or must depend upon the surface cars. Generally speakin. however, a handsome tailor-mado suit of canvas or broadcloth and a smart waist of crepe or silk elaborately trimmed with lace in fact. Just such a suit as you w..u!l wear in making afternoon calls is always In good taste and quite festal eSjOtlgh. Do not make the mistake of wcariiiK a showy hat. for a fine hat. quiet in style, to match or contrast with your costume. Is in better taste Of course, a flns black hat is always correct. The hair should be becomingly arranged and the hat removed before the performance begins, this is a courtesv which every woman owes her neighbors, that they may have an unobstructed rii m of the stae-. Dettcslt rjwewj gloves such as pearl and tan or white, are the most desirable for afternoon wear. It i never correct to wear a conspicuous toilet on the street, aud. above all things, never STSSJr decollete waist before o clock, no matter if vou do go to an entertainment la a carri."ce The modish gown of delicate pearl-colored erepe would be perfectly corprovide.! you have a long wrap to cover it POSapiH If i" transit I he True Kins. fTranltd from Kenca. by Llfti Hunt. 'Tis not wealth that makes a Kins. N "t the purple coloring; N r a brow that bound with cold, N-t ste on mighty htne rolled. The Loo) Vh' Nor Nr King I he. whft. void of fear. be swayed hy smile or frown. for all the treasure carts. That Or tl 1 1' : Whal v tare. in a Ria? r i i . hSStf r's trade. or n. loon Tr hi crown. I things calml Iowa; ite, when fate is near, dying breath with fear. H' loo He well Nor tai N ! ! i t t earthlv thing. Tht4 It Is that makes the King; aud all of us. whoe'er we he. May carve us out that royalty.

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