Indianapolis Journal, Volume 53, Number 214, Indianapolis, Marion County, 2 August 1903 — Page 26

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THE INDIANAPOLIS JOURNAL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 2, 1903. PAKT THREE. i

ILLUSTRATED

WfF ASHIDWS

ASHIONS for summer reached their prime only a few weeks ago. their best display being long delayed by unfavorable weather, yet now the talk Is of fall styles. Women at the resorts, not yet over the fatigues of the season in town, a considerable item of which lay in fittings and the other worries of getting up summer dresses, t nevertheless are already anxious to know what is coming, and women in town, dressmakers particularly, are on the lookout for hints of the coming season. Little thai Is reliable is forthcoming. The reason is that current fashions are much varied, and it Is difficult to foresee which Items of them will fall by the way and which will hold over. This, naturally, is the time when new features are few in the shops, so little evidence of what is coming can be seen, and when the shopper takes to advising with supposed authorities, she bo-

THREE STYLISH WRAPS

comes confused because she finds much diversity of opinion among them. Early fall styles will probably be those of summer to roost intents and purposes. Then the old fashions will blend into the new, instead of coming to as end with a rightabout. This has been the way for several seasons, a development that cool springs and late summers may have assisted. The blending processes are pleasant, anyhow, especially for women of limited means. These processes are suggested strongly by the new wool fabrics offered for early fall tailor suits. These goods vary very little from the present ones. They include many

fancy suitings, showing either flecks, dots, stripes or fancy figures, all of which point ! less elaboration in make-up, but it will not do to be sure of a widespread change in this direction. Many new fabrics show fancy borders, often on both sides of the goods, so a. lot of the border can be used in the gewn. This border is submitted as a substitute for lace, passementerie and other elaborate trimming.-1. The fabrics are light in weight, many of them noticeably wiry. Canvas, voile and otamlnes can be worn late in the season, and the sensible plan to follow for her who has to practice economy Is to make her summer tailor gown do till late In the fall, when it will be possible to know definitely what Is the proper thing. It is disappointing to have a gown made and think that you are fixed for the coming season, ar.d then to hive that particular style slump. This has been the case with those who had a lot of shirtwaist suits made early in the spring for summer, thinking that these would be all needed for the entire season. No sooner was that done, than the pleated skirt and long coat came in. and a get-up of this character became almost a necessity in a well-regulated wardrobe. Many of these suits are very pretty and look cool, while many another looks hotter than do canvas cloth gowns. Some are being made from galatea. material that looks as If no air could penetrate it. so, as a gown for wear on hot days, it is hardly successful. Coarse-weave linen suits look and are very cool, but in natural shades they crush easily. Linen in colors and white seem to stand wear much better. No suit seen on the street on a hot day looks cooler and fresher than the silk one, aud these in the gun-metal grays are especially attractive. The blue and white combination in silk is so liked by many women that it bobs up annually. Many current examples are trimmed iu such original ways that they are very pretty. A striking example showed tiny dots of white on dark blue ground. It was made with three-quarters coat and pleated skirt. The skirt was heavily stitched with white, and ou the coat were handsome appliques of white guipure, the heavy white -fit. hing runniug down the fronts of the coat to the bust line, where the appliques were put on. and from the latter running to the bottom of the coat, where more trimming was applied. The combination of stitching and guipure was rich and handsome. Another blue, figured with white, had a girdle formed of ecru lace appllqufd on the .-ilk. This was very wide in back, so that the entire lower part of the waist was covered with the lace over which the blouse fell. It was odd and attractive. On the whole, it is safer to choose a gray for the silk, for unless you can be original in your manner of decoration, the gown may be too much like those of the past two or three years. Not iu memory was there ever a wider choice of wraps. Very few tight-fitting Jackets are worn, for this garment looks best when it can be worn tightly fastened, but there Is an abundance of loose coats and Jackets, and it is almost impossible to be out of style If only your coat is light in color, of coarse weave and loooe. Many are white or in cream colors, but such are by no means th- only proper thing, for women who require a wrap that must iri hard service recognised the impracticability of these early in the season, so turned their atte ntion tu more serviceable ones. A white wrap may be essential for evening and dress wear, but for ordinary service taus. blues, grays and eds aro available. Rod Is pretty but apt to 4

look warm if the day is sultry and hardly is a wise choice for a woman who is to have but one wrap. Many linen ones are seen, but look fresh for such a short time that they must be worn with discretion. Pongee oats are great favorites, even though they need frequent pressing to keep them in condition. Many of them are brightened with a bit of stitching or cording in color, a little of which relieves greatly the trying pongee hade. Unless a woman has a fresh complexion this color is apt to be very trying, and the addition of a bit of color next the face will help much. I'our selections from the current display of coats and wraps are pictured herewith. In the initial is a bolero wrap of light tan canvas cloth trimmed with braid of darker shade, with tabs embroidered in shades of brown and with brown silk taesda In the group are a dark blue taffeta, cut in c ircular flounces and finished with blue passementerie and Russian lace collar; a natural color pongee banded and stitched with red, and a light tan voile self-stitched and finished with Irish lace. Besides all these stylish sorts, there are beautiful lace wraps, which are an expensive grade, because they must have lining of a silk that has body enough to set the lace out well and give it a finished appearance. Most light-colored loose coats are adorned with lace collars or other lace trimmings. The heavy laces are especially attractive in such uses, as they stay in place much better than do lighter ones. In some wash suits and waists of white lioent is hard to say whether the suit Is lace-rrlmmed with linen, or linen trimmed with lace. The lace insertions often are so wide that there is as much lace showing as linen, and on one waist thi entire top and bottom were of Irish lace, a band of white linen just below the bust and across the elbow being the only linen showing. Much the same is true of while suits and of linen dresses generally. Three of them are put in the second of to-day's pictured groups. The first was a white handkerchief weave, trimmed with embroidered nainsook ins. r-Mll.-1 MMKR

ELABORATE V

tlons. Below it is a light blue linen, finished with Insertions of white embroidery, and at the right hand is another white linen elaborated with Mexican drawn work. The remaining gown of this group was white figured 8wiss. with insertions of point de Paris lace. Swiss gowns are made up very drcssily. and as this picture- indicates, the summer dress-up is much elaborated. It certainly does not convey any hint of simplicity for autumn. Many fringes arc seen and it fs safe to ?ay that as the fall comes these will increase in numbers. Many of them are very long. Some combining two colors are handsom- A gown of black silk had a fancy passementerie trimming, its skirt being trimmed to a point at the knees in front, and there long fringes In black and white fell to the bottom Such fringes are seen. too. on the shoulders and yokes of waists. Silk gowns, both those designed for the street and others for more dressy occasions, are being trimmed with large renaissance rings covered with silk of the same shade as the gown, and from these, as centers, fancy embroidery radiates. Sometimes these rings are simply applied over the silk foundation, and again they are inset so that the ring center shows the lining beneath. They form very attractive trimmings and on the lighter weights of silk lend enough of weight to keep the gown down in an ordinary breeze. Another form of trimming that is being used a deal fa smocking, and it retails the gowns of a dozen years ago. It is seldom seen now. as it was then, for mime a whole waist, but Is used as r in

bellishment. One model had rows of smocking put around the skirt in the form of insertions, and another had bits of smocking in the shaie of medallions all over it. The lightweights in silk, chiffons and even the lighter weaves of wool goods lend themselves readily to this form of trimming, so now Is a favorable time to revive th? style. Many of the newer black grenadines are extremely pretty, and the materials are so woven as to make it unnecessary to buy anything bur the goods itself. Some of them are Jetted all over, others, besides the jetting, show stripes' and figures, and still others have, in addition to the jetting, inset squares of chautilly lace. These last are especially line. (few York, July tL

CLAIM LIBERTY BELL. Three Women to Sue Oat Injunction to Prevent Further Junkets. Philadelphia Inquirer. Injunction proceedings of a remarkable character will be begun if any further attempt is made by City Councils to send tne old Liberty Bell to other cities on junketing excursions. Not only will the law's restraining hand be sought by the lineal heirs of John Wiltbank. but the plaintiffs will set forth the fact that the bell is not the property of the city, State or Nation, but the personal property of the descendants of a man who took the cracked emblem as part payment of a debt due to him by the city of Philadelphia. The strange story behind the claim that is about to be asserted is one that lawyers say can be amply verified from historical records, the journals of Councils and the private papers of the Wiltbank family. The three heirs who are prepared to prove that the old bell is their joint property are Mrs. James McClosky, of Broad and Rockland streets; Mrs. Sidney Wright, of Germantown, and a maiden lady residing in Brooklyn, N. Y. The last is a niece of the original John Wiltbank, while the Philadelphia women are his grand-nieces. The task of asserting and proving the claim, should occasion arrive, has been intrusted to Magistrate James E. Gorman and H. Gilbert Cassidy, as attorneys for Mrs. McCloskey. Magistrate Gorman, in explaining the attitude of his clients, said: "The three women who are prepared to assert that the bell is their own personal property are thoroughly patriotic and have no desire to remove the bell from the custody of the city of Philadelphia. They are fearful, however, that in some of the junketing excursions around the country the bell may be injured, and for this reason they are prepared to take the requisite steps to stop this reckless carting of the bell around if it becomes necessary. "I know it will occasion much surprise when I say that the bell does uot belong to the city and Is as much the property of our clients as a pair of old diamonds or any other family heirloom. Their right to the old emblem dates back to the casting of the new bell after the Liberty Bell became c racked, and isvery easy of proof. "In the first place, it is an erroneous supposition that the bell became cracked in tolling on the death of Chief Justice Marshall, in lH.'i5". As a matter of fact the damage was done several years prior to that date, when the bell was sounding forth joyous peals in celebration of the visit of General Lafayette. The general learned of the accident, and not only declared that the bell should be recast, but offered to defray the cost himself. The city and Nation refused, but later Councils made an appropriation of $11,800 for the casting of a new bell. The contract was given to John Wiltbank, with the understanding that he should take the old and cracked bell in part payment and should throw off $400 from his MIL The new bell was cast and now hangs i the town hall at Germantown. "Wiltbank. in rendering his bill, said: I will not destroy that bell. Surely some day Philadelphia will remember it for what it really is.' Wiltbank could have destroyed it as a piece of junk had he so desired. The metal was valuable, and Councils in that dav apparently regarded it as little more than old metal. Wiltbank allowed the bell to remain in the possession of the city from patriotic motives, but he never relinquished his claim to it. The claim, of course, passed to his heirs, who are now prepared to again save the priceless treasure from damage in innumerable junketing excursions." Chicago Domestic Problem. Roswell Field, in Chicago Post. Judge Tuley, one of the ablest jurists that ever adorned a bench, tells us married men that he will not grant divorces mereTRI MM I NU ly because our wives swat us in their moments of wrath. He asserts with grant distinctness that it is our privilege and duty to protect ourselves, and when our wives get a little loo free with their calisthenics we must "slap them on the jaws." This seems like very excellent advice, but as Justice Dogberry's minion pertinently asked. How. if a will not stand ?" What if the lady refuses to be slapped on the jaw, and is sufficiently potent to make her protest good? Suppose the lady Is hardened by golf and tennis and outdoor recreation, while we are correspondingly weakened by office toll and lack of physical exercise; would it be prudent, though legal, under such conditions to make a plav for the feminine jaw? Surely the law is designed to protect the weak against ihe injustice of the strong, and it is no protecttion to tell a little man to hit a big woman if he is so disposed, when the chances are all against him if lie Is disposed. Assuming that this Is the law. it should be amended at once. AVe must have some protection, even if we are merely men. The World's Page. AVhat it you see from the window sill, Old I.izette? "Tossing waves that nevtr are still, sullen sun in a gloomy sky, AVheTt- the raving clouds go hurtling by. Ami a torn sail cioKsing the selfsame track. Where my man went out, but never came back." What do you see from the open door, Little Uabttc? "Blue, blue wave on a golden shore. Srkle and glow of the glad heart sun. And say little cloud that cling and run. Aud a fair, white sail on a happy sea. Where the lad that I love sails home to me." II w hall I fudge hn r-' . .liht, Babrtte. Usette? i - i. who hath tears to dim hr -inlit. r one with so much joy in h-r - oat glory kh e iu me arKi v sale.! Whh h reads aright OH the world's great page t Would ye could answer me, Youth and Age! John WUiwuvd-

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

Mill COLLKolE GIRL'S OUTFIT OW A MATTER OF MOMENT WITH .MAW. o A Mnn Offers Some Advice on the Matter of Keeping Young Coming Changes in Fashion. Still, there is good in clubs, says Ijavinia Hart, in Collier s Weekly. The- clubwoman has the nucleus of the right idea, and so, to a lesser extent, because of lesser need, has the clubman. The husband and wife who exclude themselves from society and lead a hermit's life, must necessarily weary of life and each other. In a very limited time their limited resources are sapped, and they have nothing from which to replenish them. Men and women, particularly in cities, where the inspiring effect of living close to nature is denied them, must have intercourseand plenty of it with human beings. The right sort of intercourse with the right sort of people is character conic. It strikes like flint to sharpen the wit expand the mind, and multiply the resources. Real companions and understanding fellows are rare; but there is something for us in every one, and the chances to glean and appropriate it, and also to find those rare companions, are heightened in proportion as we mingle with our fellow-men and women. To this end the club has master possibilities; but not under its present regime. Drink, dress, gossip, cliques, classism, snobbishnessthese are the cankers that eat af the roots of the modern club and nip the bud before iu full flowering. There could be no more important factor than the club In developing and binding the brotherhood of mankind; but such club of lofty purpose must be unrestricted as to sex or condition. The club that announces its own limitations sounds its own doom for high possibilities. What moral progress can be made by the state when political clubs admit only their own party, who cherish and believe in that party's weaknesses as well as its strongholds? What of the higher education in artists' or authors' clubs that admit only their own kith, who sit abdut talking of themselves' or flattering one another? (Would that they might introduce red corpuscles into the club's system by listing a few audacious critics. j And the actors' clubswould not a few conservatives give balance to the ultra-bohemlan atmosphere? And what of the churches those mighty religious associations of distinct aud contradictory charters what are they dedng. with their conservative creeds and regulations, towards the fulfillment of a universal religion of one faith, one God? It is not such a very big world, and we are all related and dependent upon each other. Neither do we stop here long. What, then, is the use of conservatism? It is sluggishness, impediment, decay. The ideal club Is a gathering together of men and women for every better cause. Why limit its purpose, why burden its membership with restrictions? We fuss so much about our little set. and fume so much about our little feathers! AA'hy bother? There is a law of moral aud ethical gravitation which adjuet these things. The vulgar And no comfort with the cultured; the ignorant take no pleasure with the lettered. Only those who have sympathy with us will seek us and stop with us long; and those who do not congene are as anxious for riddance as we. AVe may keep our eyes wide open, we shall see only that which we seek. We may open our hearts as wide, and none will enter there who has uot by natural selection the right to a resting place. Until the conservatism of sex has passed out. the club cannot fulfill its whole mission. That part of its mission which is fulfilled today is gained at the expense of other obligations. To get from the club all that it is capable of yielding toward the solving of social and domestic problems, men and women must animate and co-operate in their club life. The first advantage in this will be the obvious one of keeping together, and robbing neither of rights nor time. Husbands and wives can spend their leisure hours at their club together. Another advantage will be the influence which this grafting of masculine and feminine principles will have on the characters of both: I can fain y the scorn of men at the suggestion to have women rustling through their clubrooms and demanding continuous dress parade; and I fancy, too. the disgusted look of women at thought of smoke and stale beer odors permeating their delightful clubrooms. But these discrepancies !n taste and opinion constitute one of the main needs for the club of both sexes. The initial jars which such clubs must encounter, would prove their neOeeafty. Why should men and women, whose lives must be so closely lived, differ so essentially in every tendency, habit, viewpoint and standard? Are not these differences the fundamental cause out of which spring dissension, disruption and heartac he? Ifen and women have not the slightest conception of the motives and principles by which the actions of th other sex are guided. Men think women petty and silly; women think men coarse and unfeeling. It would not take so long an experiment in CO operative club life to find the masculine and feminine characters understand. ng, responding and merging. Women will acquire the broad view by contact with men and affairs, and men will gain somewhat of gentleness and finer feeling. Women will attain the breadth and poise of men; apd men will learn the subtle distinction between brute force aud that strength which reaches its acme in gentleness and self-control. Meu lose patience most quickly with woman's narrowness. But centuries of narrow living and narrow environment imposed by man, must have yielded to woman the narrow view, the narrow means, the narrow end. For the correction of which no. method can be truer than the co-op rattvc club, where man may find woman in the place where comrades are sought, at the time When they are most needed. Perhaps the woman's clubs have in them more virtue than we think. They may be a preparatory school for higher grades; a forerunner of the future; the shadow cast by the coming event. College Girl's Outfits. New York Sun. After all is said and done, the rooms of all college girls are much the same a dearth of floor and wall space marking them all. Before the graduating year comes all sensible girls learn that the question what to take from home is of far less Importance than what not to take. Each succeeding yeai from freshman to senior notes a falling off in traps, decorative and utilitarian, not the kost of the lessons being that furnishings occupy space and wealth multiplies care. A few things, especially In wearing apparel, kept in order, are worth untold wardrobes of frayed skirt hems and shabby sleeves. The arrangement of all others that will bring the most peace to life in halls of learning is such a connection between home aud apparel that the latter may be kept In wearable condition without vexation to the student. It Is a usual mistake of the mother to fit her daughter for college as if she were going to a long house party, and were about to need clothes for all sorts of occasions. As a fact, dress-up occasions are few, but everyday occasions are incessant in repetition, and wear and tear are great. The wearing of shabby cjethes is a proverbial falling of college students, although the last few years have seen their reputation for grooming looking up somewhat. The fact is that the college life is a busy one, and there is little time, even if there is inclination Which is seldom present in a startling display to attend to mending and other repairs. The mother should remember that dally through the college year her daughter will wear short skirts and shirtwaists. Evenings she will need wash dresses. Her one good tailormade will see the light about once a week. At dramatics and the like she will wear h r "summer" silk or silk blouse and long, light wool skirt. For the dance, a muslin gown of dancing length is in order. This will usually be done up fresh for the occasion. Only a few times a year, at the prom., etc.. will she need it "truly" evening gown. But of negligees there cannot be too many for these are the daily apparel of the girl who "gets right down to work " The only requiMte of this part of the wardrobe, which, in number, is usually absurdly out of proportion to the conventional supply. Is a certain simple and picturesque style In the washable kimonos, drsslng sacques and blanket wrappers. House slippers, too. should not be forgotten. Underwear, picked for its eudurlng qualities, not decorative effects is best suited to college mangles, which, according to legend, feed on lace and embroidery. As to headgear: This is a simple matter. As a rule, the college girl goes bareheaded

unless she makes a concession to college tra

dition and dons a cap. For dress up, she will need a store hat. Among the needfuls are mackintosh, golf cape and vest and a useful luxury is a big evening wrap that will completely envelop her for college entertainments. Pretty floating scarfs, too, are always welcome. But to return to the first proposition with a connection between mother and wardrobe a girl will be better gowned in an outfit of Spartan simplicity thau the student with no such arrangement, though she may be fitted out with vast elaborateness. Pointers on Looking Yoang, Philadelphia Telegraph. "I saw Mabel Simmons to-day. Goodness, but she has grown old! And she used to have such a fresh, peachy complexion. It's strange how quickly some women fade." The man of the party laid down his paper. "There is no need for any woman to fade," he said, oracularly. "No woman need begin to look old until she's well toward seventy. She should never have wrinkles until after sixty." "Oh, fudge," said his sister, scornfully. "That's all you know about it." The man sat up, straight, determined. "Look at men." he said. "Do they get old at thirty? Do you hear of men 'fading at thirty-five, unless they are in poor health?" The other woman of the party admitted you didn't, often. "Walk along the street and look at the men," went on the exponent of the charms of his sex. "Here comes a fellow of thirtyeight, fresh, rosy skin, not a line on his face. There's a man of forty-five; his face as smooth as a baby's. Why, I've seen men of sixty with a skin as fresh aud clear as a young girl's." "Yes, and I've seen men of sixty with a face as seamy and wrinkled and sallow as an old crone's," said his sister. "There are exceptions, of course; a sailor won't have the skin of a banker. But I am comparing men and women of the same position." "What is the secret?" asked the other woman, anxious for peace, and longing also to know the lurking place of the fountain of youth. "The barber," said the man, with a grandiloquent wave of his hand. "Goodness! But you don't want us to shave." "Women always jump to conclusions," he said with withering scorn. "They can never work a thing out logically. No, what do I mean by the barber?" "Goodness knows," they replied meekly. "Just this: A man goes every day and gets shaved, which means a good massage, and he comes out as fresh as a daisy and as clear-faced as a year-old babe. A man will go into a barber shop, tired, haggard, looking like a piece of damaged good " "Oh. theu. they do have wrinkles?" interrupted the sister. But he scorned to notice her. "Yes, sir! What Ponce de Leon was trailing around for was a good, up-to-date barber shop." "I suppose he thought -Ue d And a twentieth century barber sitting, waiting for customers, in a sixteenth century Florida jungle." remarked the sister, sotto voce. "Now, a woman doesn't get a good massage once a week. If she does go in for it. she sneaks around thp back way and locks the door when she's doing it at home, as if she were committing one of the cardinal sins." "You've been reading somebody's beauty book." "Then, there's another thing. "When a man quits work, he quits. He goes home and gets on some easy togs, puffs a good cigar, and reads something diverting. He doesn't sit down and darn stockings, or sort over the wasli for to-morrow, or read up on the internal organs of bachtrachlates." "What are bachtrachlates?" "But let a woman have a few minutes, and what is she doing? Fussing around to see if she can't get beforehand with the winter sewing, mending the children's clothes, or in some way or other workiug overtime every blessed night of her life." "But the stockings have to be darned." said the matron of the party, "and clothes mended." "I'm talking about keeping young," said the man. "Women never will keep to the subject in hand." But, you see, he wasn't married. If it comes down to practice, he would probably prefer a few wrinkles on his wife's brow to holes in his socks. Coming; (hangen in Fashions. New York Evening Post. "The return of the fitted bodice is heralded. Women have been trying to get rid of the pouch effect in bodices and coats forv some time, and the autumn and winter models show that they are succeeding. The Kitchener coat has a very slight fullness, not more than enough to allow for the bodice beneath. Skirts arc to be worn very much fuller, that is, when the final style shall be achieved. This will come about gradually, but the coming season will show marked tendency in this direction. We are slipping back to the ample proportions of the skirts of the old crinoline days. Like then, too, the new skirts will show trimmings of narrow ruffles and full pinked-out Tuchings. Fringes, too, will be much used in garniture, but not in the old way of falling from an ovorskirt or edging a basque. An imported evening gown of pale blue chiffon clotli has scrolls LINEN WITH i Blouse Waist 4465. No matt rial makes more satisfactory summer gowns than linen in the many shades and qualities in which it is offered. This stylish one is of the material in the shade of blue known as Delft, and is trimmed with heavy ecru lace. The waist is simple and effective. It Is made with fronts that are tucked from the shoulder to yoke depth and joined to a p'ain central portion, on which the trimming is applied. The skirt is cut in nine gease and is laid in tucks that conceal the scams and are so arranged that tin y give the effect of narrow panels. The quantity of material required for the

tfcasev

set on around the bottom of the skirt outlined in inch-wide, self-colored chenille fringe. Fringes edge tabs on bodices and fail from collar points: they are cut up and applied in a way that is entirely different from our former idea of using them. What may be called the raised or repo c effect in trimming is the new note, and this may be achieved in many ways, but not. alas, by the home or amateur dressmaker. The smart gown of next season must come from the hands of an expert. What the home woman may do will be to overhaul her boxes and bags of laid aside finery there will be undoubtedly treasure trove of available trimming. Old-fashioned gimp ornaments with long ends, crochet buttons and all widths and varieties of fringes, silk, jet and steel, are to be revived. Wool embroideries are the high-class thing In that class of trimmings. They come in bands and ornaments, in a mingling of colors in Oriental effect. Where is used it will often match the color of the gown. The silk cluuy is a fashionable variety. The peacock effects in color and form are also in high favor in braiding and embroidery. At a fashionable fete in Paris recently a novel gown was spangled with peacock green and blue paillettes, the train reproducing all the colors of the bird. "The changes in the sleeves. Ilk those of other parts of the dress, are gradual but steady. The undersleeve effect Is paving the way for the long, sloping shoulder that belonged to our grandmothers' gowns. To match that, bodies trimming will slip lower on the corsage, and that peculiar falllng-off effect that we see in old daguerreotypes will, before long, be in vogue. This effect is already noticeable in some of the models intended for high-class trade the trade that deals with the individual rather than with the class. The first token of this on-coming style is seen in the pushing up of the puff from the wrist toward the shoulder. Some French models sent over have. In fact, the well-defined shoulder puff that was worn forty years ago in the days of hoopskirts and berthas. "No." the speaker continued, replying to a question, "hoopskirts will :iot be revived. That fashion can never come again. Our present style of locomotion prohibits that. They were bad enough in the days of Sedan chairs, and later here in New York with the stages of a generation ago. but they would be hopelessly out of place racing up and down the stairs to the elevated stations or, as will soon happen, to our new subway cars. The fuller skirts, however, have the plain stretches that were set off by the oldfashioned crinoline, but their stiffening of to-day is got by the use of hair cloth and other stiffening fabrics. What is true of dress materials is true of these interllnings; many of them are called by the same name, but they are practically different fabrics. The hair cloth, Sur example, of to-day is vastly improved over that in use the last time it was employed. Featherbone is already used. It is applied to wash dresses by being run in a casing. It edges flounces, holding them out for the full effect." From a Grandmother's Scrapbook. The Housekeeper. Fainting. This is caused by the blood leaving the brain. Lay the patient down with the head lower than the body. Sprinkle cold water on the face. Hold hartshorn near the nose. A half teaspoonful of aromatic spirits of ammonia iu a wineglassful of water will tend to revive the patient. Hemorrhage. To stop hemorrhage of the lungs wrap the thighs and arms above the elbows with small strong cords tightly drawn and tied. This will stop the flow of blood almost instantly. Hiccoughs. Take a small piece of sugar and allow it to dissolve very slowly in the mouth, or drink water very slowly. Another remedy is, have some one locate the pulse. The person afflicted should then take a very deep breath, holding it as long as possible, the other to keep a steady pressure with the fingers upon the pulse. Nose Bleeding. A small roll of paper or muslin placed above the front teeth under the upper Hp and pressing hard upon the same will often arrest the bleeding very shortly. Rheumatism.- Take half an ounce of pulverized saltpeter and mix with half a pint of olive oil. Bathe the affected parts and cover with warm flannel. Another remedy is to heat a flatiron and cover with a flannel which has been moistened with vinegar. Place as near as possible to affected part. Repeat two or three times a day. Sprains or Bruises Bathe the injured part well with very hot water, wrap with flannel, then heat some extract of wit- h hazel and pour on the flanuel. Place the white of an egg in a saucer, stir it with a piece 'f alum until the egg forms a jelly. Lay this over the sprain upon a piece of lint, and change as it becomes dry. Stings. Take a pinch of common table salt, put on the place stung, and dissolve with water, rubbing with the finger. If not relieved, wet the place with aqua ammonia. Or a lump of wet salaratus may be applied. Burns. Mix fresh lard with baking soda, aud spread upon silk paper. Apply directly to burned part, and cover with cotton batting, using care fcst the batting come in direct contact with injured part. A Practical Gift. August Housekeeper. Now that mercerized cottons sre obtainable in delicate shades which will bear laundering, a set of wash cloths which, are quite pretty enough for a gift, may be made. The centers are of white darning cotton, either crochetted or knitted in any close stitch, which, however, should not be drawn tight enough to make the cloth stiff. The stitch

HEAVY LACE, Nine-Gored Skirt 4432. medium size is, for waist, 3 yards 27 or 24 yards 44 inches wide, with yard of trimming; for skirt, 8 yards 27 or 3 yards 44 inches wide. The waist pattern 4465 is cut in sizes for a 32. 34. 3. 38 and 40-inch bust measure. The skirt pattern 4132 is cut in sizes for a 22, 24. 26. a and 30-iueh waist measure PATTERN COUPON " For pattern mt the t garments lllustrHted abovt Knd 10 cents for each (coin or Rum.) " i oui iiiuxiraiion n; im-io it m letter. Write your name and addrens distinctly and siaiv nuinuer jinn niie wanted. Ad. In Pattern Dept.. The Journal, Indianapolis. Ind. Allow one week tor return of pattern.

for the border may also be selected to suit the fancy, an it is the colors in the borders which make the s. t attractive and dainty. T!iere are not only the conventional pinks and blues in the mercerized rM-het cottons, but lavenders, delicate grens. and yellow in varying shades A half dosen such cloths, each with a border of a different color, folded square, and tied together with baby ribbons matching one of the borders, would

be a gift which any woman would welc Odda and I ml. Sweep carpets the way of rhe nap; otherwise you brush the dirt In rather than out. Fringes are unquestionably successful at last, and their vogue will doubtless continue through the coming season. It is said that a teaspoonful of powdered alum mixed with with stove polish will impart lustre to the stove, which it will retaia a long time. Deep collars of panne, ornamented with embroidery or inset lace, are Hkely to b much worn In the fall, replacing the cape collars of lace, embroidered batiste, etc. There is In the millinery world a tumor that the plateau is doomed, and that the h gh jam pot crown, in combination with a drooping brim, is to have its inning. The small toque and the Victorian poke are also bidding for favor. A little salt mixed with powdered chalk and orris in equal quantities makes an excellent tooth powder, and salt mixed with ordinary dentifrice will harden and i strengthen the gums. A pinch of salt held i in the mouth and swalktwed slowly as it I dissolves is used by many singers and pub- ' lie speakers as a simple and effective means j of clearing the throat. Salt is a simple home remedy whose properues are not always appreciateo. Harm salt water, held in the mouth, will stop the flow of blood caused by a drawn tooth, and will cure a toothache many times when other remedies fall. It is also useful as a gargle for sore throat and hoarseness, ind salt water drawn into the nostrils every morning will arrest the further development of catarrh. A CIRCUS WOMAN'S CAREER. Once Noted la Her Line, She la Burled in Paiptr'i Grave. Chicago Tribune. There recently died In New Orleans the one-time 'queen of the circus,'" Elisabeth Howard, who forty years ago divided honors with Dan Rice. In the old days Misa Howard was easily the most popular woman performer in the sawdut ring, but the last twenty years of her life were spent selling- newspapers in the streets of tha Southern city. Time was when Elizabeth Howard received $150 for forty minutes work each night. And the success of the entire performance depended upon her whim as much as the singing of a grand opera does ujon the humor of a prima donna. During her life in New Orleans "Old Miss Howard.'' as she was known to the newsboys and street urchins, earned about GO cents a day. and to do this she I was forced to rise at 2 o'clock in the morn- ! ing. summer and winter, and be at News paper row at 3 o'clock, when thr morning papers sent out their city editions. It is said that Miss Howard arrived iu New Orleans about twent years ago. I cold winter's morning a sweet-faced, whit- -haired old woman was seen selling oapers at the intersection of Custom-huise -nd Royal streets. She had a rude little table with uncertain legs. When it was time to close her "shop" she asked permission of a near-by storekeeper to allow her table to remain over night In his establishment. Then she trudged home to a bare, cheeri leas little room somewhere down town la I the French quarter. After a while she re turned, passing the corner on her way to the levee for a walk. She was followed by six dogs, her friends and companions. Thla was the history of each of the last daya of the old woman's life. She never selected any other corner, and she was never absent from her little stand. She always went for hei walks accompanied by a halfdozen dogs. Sometimes a change was noticed in the personnel of her canine bodyguard, sumo of them falling victims to age, accioVnt or the dog catcher. But there were always six of them. There are times when the. most cheerful and willing of souls will re. bei at the idea of going out into the darkness of a bleak morning and standing iu the face f a tiff, icy wind that blows straight from the gulf, but Miss Howard was always patient and gentle While she rarely smiled, she bravely faced life and the changes it had for her. and when her work was done she folded h r arms and went away. Miss Howard ia held by many to have been the most dashing, the most darin, circus woman tha world ever knew. 8he was the flrst person, man or woman, to tumble through paper hoops whih her horse was going at a mad gallop. She could perform on the horizontal bars. too, and as a dancer she rivaled Canaendta. She had a voice of richness and power. Miss Howard deserted the circus for a single season, when she starred ir. a comedy of the sort in which Ijotta waa successful. She achieved a triumph, ner sing, ing of "Kong, Long Ago" being still fresh in the memory of many an old man. But Um stage was not to her liking and she soon returned to her old love, the night on which she reappeared under the big tent being an event to amusement seekers. It was in Pittsburg, and admirers from Cincinnati ani Detroit made pilgrimages to the Pennsylvania city to give her a welcome. Before ih "grand entry" there waa an aorldent in one of me dressing rooms. A candle was overturned and some flimsy gowns were soon abläse. Dan Rice's little niece was sh ping on a. pile of canvas trunks, and the names had reached the child when Miss Howard went to the rescue. The "queen's" left hand was badly burned, but the little one was unharmed. Miss Howard bowed to the big audience that night, but she could not r hr horse or leap in midair. She sang -ng, Long Ago." Miss Howard was once a society girl of Montgomery, Ala., and Alst before the civil war she visited Kichpond, where she led the cotilion at the season's most notable affair, it was during this visit to Richmond that she met a circius clown, to whom she lost her heart. There Is no rec ord of her marriage to him, but at anjr rate the members of her family, one of the oldest In Alabama, were shocked the following year to learn that Ahe had signed a contract with a circus .aanager and had begun what was to la- a moat notable career. She was lorhidden ever to ehter h. r home again. Miss Howard sold papers the day she died. The last morning she spent on earth was bright and warm. She left off selling pa pi i s about 10 o'clock and went to Newspaper row to settle her weekly bills. Then home, dinner for the dogs, a two-hour "nap." and her dally walk. As she was returning home she had s coughing spell and swooned. A hemorrhage followed and -she was taken into a dwelling at 730 Orleans street, where she died a. few minutes later. Miss Howard had been a member of a co-operative benevolent aaacKiatlon which assured Its members a Christian burial upon payment of lj i . nts a week during life. She had neglected to pay the current week's dues, and so the "queen of the circus" was laid to rest tu potter s field. Bl.t l m II VIK. Its Blessed Qualities are LoTlusly Descanted I post. Minneapolis Journal. The Boston Transcript discourses lovingly on blueberry pie. so lovingly that we doubt not that itf readers ieinand- d blueberry !o at the next meal, even if It were bieakCaat, The pie should go to the tabu not longer than an hour alter It leave;, the oen. says the Tra? be of the fi point wher. i and the beru "Then the crust should kind, browned to th itrvaks yet linger in it. iselve wsnt no spices In them, as anj true to proclaim them berry lover will tell you. you find hints delicate and subtle, of all the tragrai.t things that gn w In pastures near them, especially sweet fern. Oh. they are not pronounced, of course, these flavors. Thev are merely suspicious, nothing more. And sugar, of course, there must be sugsr In a Pc. and over It if oj like, cream." At this season of the year the blueberry pie is the great American pie. Pumpkin and mince will yet have their day. as rhubarb has had Its. and apple pie Is alwas with us. At this season there are nsen who count absorption of the bluebrtry pie the chief Joy and end of life There la something about the taste of blueberry that harmoulxes better with pie crust of the flaky kind prescribed by the Transcript than anything else ever does or can. The man who has the price of a ee tion of blueberry pie has no license to rail at fate or declaim against the unequal distribution of wealth. In a section of this j. u ple-boitied pie there is as much luxuir for tlx i"Jt man as Rockefeller cau ever extract from his millions If the blueberry l ie season could I" xteudVd throughout the year there would be little unrest or disoontcut so long as the populace had ia It trousers pocaets tne price of mouthtula of this delectable pesu?.

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