Indianapolis Journal, Volume 53, Number 186, Indianapolis, Marion County, 5 July 1903 — Page 26

THE INDIANAPOLIS JOURNAL, SUNDAY, JULY 5, 1903.

PART THRICE.

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS

Ä IKI.DING to admlF ration for foulards d&B&t nt a I way? a safe A course for the shopPr. These weaves VKnruJr" demned. yet she - who is anxious to appear in downright new fashions should consider them carefully. They are much seen, and it is hard to convince some of fashion's followers that they are not as stylish as in former season?, but It is becoming more noticeable that othr silks are coming In for a large share of the favor heretofore given undivided to foulard. Earlier it was Mid that pongees would be the stylish thing, but their proneness to crushing has led to their being discarded for serviceable wear, and newer weaves prepared with this fault In mind are very attractive. Punjaub silks are to be popular. There Is no crush to tbem. they are of floe appearance and can be worn for almost any purpose. This material stands packing in trunks and comes out without wrinkles, which la a big recommendation at this season. The more abundant shadings are grays of gun metal tones, and most of the weaves are striped. Besides the stripes many pieces have dots of white silk embroidered on. These are particularly attractive. Punjaub silks are being made up in shirtwaist suits for walking. They are cut Just to clear the floor when standing still, but of course they must touch with each step. A silk gown never should be shorter than barely to clear, for the dressiness of the goods forbids rough and ready cut. Many of these gowns are made in box-pleated skirts, the box pleats stitched down to the knees and from there allowed to fall free. This model is seen also In shepherd's checks In wools, and If done well Is very pretty, but it has a serious fault that has appeared some in wool gowns and which is far worse and more likely to appear in silk models. That Is that there Is not enough fullness in the skirt to make it seem graceful when the wearer is walking. The desire for clinging effects has made it easy to go to the other extreme, and this must be guarded against. This fault is worse in silk than It is in wool, for there is a certain look of elasticity to wool stuffs that is lacking In silks, and. as a result, many silk suits made after this model give the wearer the appearance in rear view of having carefully to measure the length of each step lest she should break something. The same can be said of some habit-back skirts. They give a very ugly effect in back unless Just right, but the perfection example is fine enough to offset several horrid examples. New designs in fancy silks for dressy wear are fine. Moire antiques are especially bandsome, many of them so elaborate that the waist or suit can be made plainly and Still have the look of great dressiness. "White habutai silks make up daintily in wash gowns, and are marvelously light in w-ight. These make up very prettily with lace trimming, and seem to look better after being laundered several times, as the silk becomes even softer with washing. They re easily laundered, too, for if wrung out In warm soapsuds, rinsed thoroughly and Ironed when damp, they will look as fresh as evr. Tussore is another soft silk that will not crush easily and that will give god service. Countless gowns of white and very light stuffs make it hard for women who are obliged to practice economy in dress to know Just what to get. There is no comfort in go to fashionable places unless you can feel A GOWN AND A WRAP that you are dressed so as not to attract attention by being out of style. This makes it almost a necessity to have a white cloth or lace wrap, for afternoon and evening dress affairs make It practically impossible to get along without a dressy wrap. To Women thus situated there Is no more serviceable gown than one consisting of skirt and wrap of white canvas or cloth. The skirt may be made In any way desired, but have the wrap a loose coat, trimmed either fancifully or with self-strappings. Thus you will have the whole suit for use when desired, and a loose, dressy wrap, so two birds will be killed with one stone. Many a handsome white wrap will do double duty this Samson, and the ease with which a simply made one can be cleansed will make it possible to keep it In good trim by sending it to the cleanser's whenever it best can be spared. Never try to wear such wrap or suit When it is the least bit soiled. Many white wraps are merely stitched and strapped, a simple and Inexpensive manner of decorating, yet one that Is very affective, for If the material Is pretty It Will stand being simply made. Another pretty mode of decorating is to trim with oord ornaments or a tiny bit of lace or passementerie, but the later models are the plainer ones, and if only a bit of originality oan be shown in the trimming it matters not how simple it is. If the pure white seems light, very delicate shades just off white be saad, but whits aad cream white

are the more sensible, for if the wrap is to be worn more than the skirt it will require the more cleansing, and it often happens that the color of tans and light shades changes a bit with each cleansing, so soon wrap and skirt would not match and the economical scheme fail or become unpleasantly apparent. These wraps can be made more dressy. If they are plain, by adding a stole or collar of lace to them. Their appearance can be changed very materially In this manuer so that they hardly will be known as the same wrap if ingenuity is displayed in different neck arrangements. In the white wrap that the artist puts h'TP was no attempt at economy. It was peau de soie heavily trimmed with white .Ilk passementerie. The simpler schemes Just outlined will produce many wraps as sightly, though there may not be anything gniud about them. The gown opposed to the wrap in the picture was of the costly grade, t'-o. it was white antique lace, with black velvet belt and white louislne silk puffs. The other gowns the artist presents were inexpensive following of fashions for white and very light shades. In the Initial is a light gray voile, and in order from left to right in the next picture are a white cloth suit trimmed with white silk cord and pearl

THE HEIGHT OF STYLISHNESS buttons, a light tan voile finished with stitching and covered buttons and trimmed with darker tan velvet, and a white canvas SJSSJII finished with silk and tassels. Little ripple flounces are much seen on tailor gowns and form a very pretty style of trimming, as they fall attractively, and if cut circular and have little fullness, are not bulky. For Inexpensive summer dresses for afternoon wear challies are often chosen, though they are not as stylish as they were, and many newer fabrics of more silky appearOF COSTLY GRADE ance have won favor. Silk and cotton sublimes and louisines are liked.. When first made up they look so much like thin silks that It is hard to tell the difference. Many of the simpler designs will wash very nicely, so gowns of them will give good service. Silk and wool crepes are greatly favored and reasonably so, for they are as dressy as crepe de chines, are newer and, having rather more substance, will wear better. Then the crinkly appearance of crepe de chine makes it more difficult to trim successfully than silk and wool crepes. A new weave of eollenne. called boutonne eolienne, has its surface covered with tiny flecks of the same color as the material and is very pretty. Evening finery shows no lessening of new designs and color combinations and materials. The demand for quantities of work In the get-up holds with undiminished strength, and in some cases Is carried almost too far for quiet taste. A gown of Mack net lace and chantilly had Its entire skirt of alternate insertions of tucked net and chantilly. was gathered full and caught In by three shirring.. Round the bottom was a wide trimming of white passementerie containing a bit of light blue. The yoke to the waist was of white passementerie, stole ends of the same hanging almost to the knees. An evening gown of black chiffon had at its bottom a wide nounce of tucked taffeta, the tucking diagonal, the flounce edged with two bands of light gray silk.

Where silk flounce and chiffon joined there was a wide band of white guipure insertion. Occasionally a gown is seen w here the desire for originality has produced ugliness instead of beauty. An exampl' was of flgureed chiffon trimmed with six-inch medallions of black chantilly. The medallions were square, but for lopped-oft corners. They were put around the top of the skirt, the corners only being caught together, and the same trimming was on the waist, where the huge things were arranged below a white lace yoke. Every movement of the wearer caused the medallions to part and let the material below bulge through unhandsomely. Yet for the amount of originality displayed and the wide ranges of styles permitted there are few such mistakes. Occasional models seem much cut up and overtrimmed. as a gown of white silk and voile whose skirt and blouse consisted of alternate trimmings of voile bands and scalloped silk flounces each two Inches wide. This looked rather too much slashed. Gowns entirely of lace are pretty, especially so in princess style, with only enough trimming to relieve the plainness of the waist. This is done prettily by deep fringe to simulate a yoke and continued well down over the sleeves so that the drooping shoulder is gained. New York. July 3. A SLATE IN THE HALL.

Why Callers are Asked to Write Their Messages. Brooklyn Eagle. g One house on Brooklyn Heights has a good sized white slate hanging from the hall hatrack. On Its broad, wooden frame AND SIMPLICITY COMBINED is printed in the best hand of the master of the house: "Please write your message on this slate." It has been hanging there ever since the eventful evening, some weeks ago, when the mistress went out for a stroll. j They have a new waitress, a recent importation from England. The family is still in doubt as to her name whether it is Anna or Hannah. Being asked she said: "Which hits Hannur, Mum; 'Annur bein a bit too hold-fashioned fer me naime." On their return from this recent evening stroll the mistress asked the usual question, "Has any one been here while we were out?" and the maid, dimpling and blushing until she was a Joy to behold, said: "Ow yes, mum. Sich a nice gentilmin." "What was his name? Didn't he leave any name?" Hannur looked at them both, bit her thumb, blushed still more, hesitated, and said, despondingly: "Ow, I ferglt, mum. Haint hit strainge! Hi thaout Hi 'ad It daown hin me mem'ry, mum. Han e were quite pertick-ler that you should kneow 'e 'ad bean ere, sir. because 'e were werry desirous to see you, sir, upon a bit o' bizniz. Ow, Hime werry sorry, sir! Neow 'ow do you suppose has. that naime slipped me mem'ry, sir?'' "What did he look like?" asked the master, hoping to get a clew. " ' w. r.- i nu thi - nr'ot amaa mUkt mil . ------ . .... i . v . v j ' v, luiiii uau good-lookin'. Tall. Hi should soy, that his tallish. Han, furthermore, 'e's w'at you might call fair, with Jist a sprinklin' o' dark hin is air. Is mustache, neow, Hi remember, were a bit darker than is 'air, han' not droopy-Uke. 'Is heyes wuz heither blue or broawn, wuz hit, neow? Hi hain't sure w ich." "Any other points about which you are certain?" asked the master. "Yes." said Hannah; " 'e "ad on a sart uv a pepper-an'-salt suitin' uv a broawnish cawst, an' 'e wore a black darby 'at or were that broawn, neow? Per'aps it were a soft gray 'at. Hows'ever, a 'at more or lris; don't make no difference, han belike HI hain't sure w ich, sir. Ow yes, further, 'e were smokin' a seegar for 'ose oder Hl don't care, sir." "I'm-m," said the master, considering. "Did he leave any message?" "No," said the sweet voiced girl, with an even great i r confusion of soft vowel tones; " e said has 'ow 'e hadn't no need. Hit wouldn't be nes'ary, because soon has you rd is name you'd know 'is bizniz. Han' 'e saved has 'ow you could call 'im hup hover the 'phone, sir. soon has you got hin. has 'e were so very partlck'ler." "You'll call him right away, won't you dear?" said the mistress. In a faint voice, from the stairway. "Yes." the servant nodded, affirmatively. " 'e 'oped you would." What the masur MM was not clear to the two listeners. Later in the evening a ring at the telephone was hastily answered by the master, who was heard to laugh and sav: "That so? Well, she didn't! O yes. you did make an impression, but not the kind you usually do. No! Yes! Oh! she thinks you are only 'rawther good-lookin' " and say. she does not like tobacco. You'll have to get a new brand, old man!" Then followed a full account of the happening over the 'phone, the mistress taking her turn when the master had finished. This explains why the slate was bought. Garden Llteratnre Aw Style. B. L. Taylor, in the Reader. How I love a garden! Oh. I Just love It! What a sanctuary In which to rommtine with one's soul! I can conceive of a garden without a house there was none In the Garden of Eden; but a house without a garden to me It is unthinkable. Gardening is not learned in a day. You must expect to "make many slips." A pine tree always reminds me of a cow at rest, it is so peaceful, .so placid, so uncommunicative. I had such a happy idea to-day. Why not plant my thoughts, literally plant them? For example, take the thought. "The grass Is green:" why not plant flowers so as to form those very words? Thus I might water and nourish my thought, and watch it grow in beauty day by day. And think of a whole garden of such thoughts flower platitudes! Of all my flowers I like best the poppycock (poppycock literatus). Oh. I love it! I never tire of caressing Its pnper leaves and violet ink corolla. Whenever I have a thought I run to Poppycock and tell my set: et- And Poppycock understands.

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

A VERY MPERIOR KIM) OF BREAD IN WHICH POTATOES ARE l SED. A Theory as to Why Some Girls Marry Feminine Ignorance of Mechanical Appliances. I have a new maid whose bread is better than any I ever made, at any period of careful experimentation, writes Ella Morris Kretschmar in Good Housekeeping. It Is moist. clns-grained. very light, deliciously flavored, "keeps" to the limit of good keeping. Is white in short is all that bread should be to merit the verdict "perfect." When I add that anyone may make it without difficulty, that no one need fail who attempts it, "ray neighbor" should feel very grateful for the "expert recipe," herewith appended. Let rto "expert" breadmaker score to give it a trial. I feel like a national benefactor in sharing with the readers of "Good Housekeeping" the good fortune of Fannie Shanklin's bread. For four loaves boil two good-sized potatoes (slicing them) in three pints scant of water, without covering the vessel used. Have ready In a gallon bowl a tablespoonful of salt, sugar and lard each, and when the potatoes are done strain the water Into the bowl, also add the potatoes, rubbed through the strainer. Blend the ingredients by a little stirring and when the temperature is lessened below scalding, add enough flour to make a medium thick batter (four or five cupi), beating until all lumps disappear. When the temperature is reduced to lukewarm (or a little over) add one-half cake of any reliable dry yeast dissolved in a cup of warm (not hot) water; tlc until well blended and stand the bowl covered) where It will not chill over night. In the morning work In flour until the dough will not stick to the molding board which point should be attained while the mass is fairly soft and yielding, not stiff and hard as some poor breadmakers fancy it must be. Work well for thirty minutes from the time of beginning to add flour. When light work down by just a few "turns," and when It has again risen mold into loaves. Now allow to rise a third time, and then bake from forty-five to sixty minutes, according to the oven. The proper degree of each rising may be definitely indicated by the veteran breadmakers' formula: "When it doubles in bulk." It is better to raise dough in a covered stone Jar (It should be warmed in cold weather) than In a tin breadpan. "Fannie'?" bread may be begun in the morning by using one cake of compressed yeast, but it is not so fine in flavor as the over-night bread made with less yeast. It is possible that half a cake (or less) of compressed yeast might be substituted for dry yeast In the overnight sponge; but that is a point for experiment. Matrimonial Philosophy. Detroit Journal. "Whether girls marry or not depends more upon their parents than on anything else." This is the startling statement of a well-known Detroit woman. "Some fathers and-mothers always take It for granted that their girls will marry," she went on. "They educate them to that end, and talk it to them from their youth. When they are hardly out of their teens they begin to invite young men to the house and encourage the girls to go out in society. The result is that their daughters, without exception, become brides. "Exactly the other attitude is taken by other parents. They educate their daughters to be able to earn their own living, and seem to think they are as likely to remain old maids as anything else. And very olten the girls do not marry. "I knew a family of young girls, sweet and pretty, every one of them, whose parents taught them that It was a disgrace to be left an old maid, as they called it. Those girls were afraid of their lives for fear, that dreadful fate would happen to them. They all married in their early twenties, but not one of them did well. "An old friend of my parents, on the other hand, took his three girls out into the country, built a barbed-wire fence around the place, and gave out that he didn't want any young men around. He couldn't bear the thought of his girls leaving home. The older two were pretty, and the youngest was strikingly handsome, but one is an old maid, the next is teaching school, and the youngest has Just broken her engagement. I don't believe any of them will ever marry. "I am sure I wouldn't urge my daughters to marry, especially not to marry young. Every girl gets a chance or two to have a husband, and she had just as well wait till she is twenty-six or twenty-seven before she lays down her good time and takes up her cares. Some girls, of course, are too particular and Independent, and thy refuse one man too many, and never do get mar ried. But what of that? They're better off than tnese mat lane me nrst man wno 01fers his heart and hand. The latter are likely to make the worst mistake a woman can make in her life that of getting a husband who isn't congenial and ceases to love her." What Woman Doesn't Know. Philadelphia Ledger. The average woman's Inaptitude for mechanics is truly pitiable. When the electric bell at the front door gets out of order, how many women have any idea how to locate the break In the circuit? How many women know how to turn off the water in the cellar? How many do it without a creepy feeling that perhaps the main ill burst, or maybe there will be a terrific boiler explosion? Only the other day a woman who has done her own sewing for eighteen years, had a little difficulty with her sewing machine. The effort to set it right, resulting In a study of the book of directions, which, although carefully preserved for eighteen years, she had never before seriously consulted, led to the discovery that in all that time she had never properly threaded the shuttle! Her process of threading, all wrong anyhow, was also laborious; in reality, the abused piece of mechanism was a self-threader. That it has done her Blieb, good service all these years speaks volunn s in praise of its manufacturers. Welt, it's like a second honeymoon. That woman is falling in love with her sewing machine all over, although she has been its devoted admirer ever since the day it came to her as a wedding gift. It is presumable that very few women undertake any part of their own sewing unless they are actuated by the wish to economize. Every time a woman sits down tc sew she puts herself directly in competition with factory workers. When a man does that he makes sure that his facilities are as good or better than those of his competitors. He takes paper and pencil and mathematically figures out questions as to economy of power and time. Did you ever, at one of the department store exhibits, for instance, see those curious devices on machines driven by belts, by means of which a flounce is shirred, put on. and bound at the top. all in one operation? Did you ever see an underskirt turned out factory style In five or ten minutes? Do you think you can successfully comepte with that? Well, not unless you go about it right. Everv modern sewing machine is pro vided with attachments which treble Its value; yet how often they are unused. The average woman would rather fold four or five yards of hem by hand than she would take two seconds of time to screw the hemmer In place. It all comes of the feminine aversion to mechanics. Couldn't we somehow reform in this respect? Some Summer Beverages. New York Sun. Combinations of fruit flavors may be varied indefinitely for tutti-frutti punch. The special characteristic of the following recipe is found in the Maraschino cherries, which give a peculiar zest to the whole. Boil together for five minutes one quart of water and one pound of sugar. Add the grated rinds of two lemons and four oranges, and continue boiling for ten minutes longer. Strain the syrup through cheesecloth and add one quart of cold water, Extract the

juice from the lemons and oranges, strain and mix with two dozen Malaga grapes cut in half and seeded, two sliced Tangerine oranges, four slices of pineapple, one banana cut into slices and one pint bottle of Maraschino cherries with their liquor, the cherries being halved. Serve from a punch bowl, in which a cube of ice has been placed. Old-fashioned, home-made wines are again coming into favor. They are delicious when served ice cold, and this is the season for their brewing. For dandelion wine, over six quarts of blossoms pour four quarts of boiling water. Stand for several days, stirring frequently. Then strain the juice, add to it four pounds of sugar and let It come to the boiling point. When cool add two slices of toasted bread, two slices of lemon and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of yeast. Stand for four or five days. Then add a handful of raisins and half a glass of whisky. Strain and bottle. To make elder blossom wine, pick from the stems enough MOSSOSSS to fill a quart measure wrren pressed down. Add to them one eallon of cold water and steep for twenty-four hours. Strain and add four pounds of sufc-ar, three .sliced lemons and one cupful of yeast. Set the mixture away for two weaks, Then strain it carefully, pour it Into a jug and after several months bottle. For currant wine, select dead ripe currants. Stem, mash and strain the fruit. AM granulated sugar and water, having allowed one-half pint of water and threefourths of a pound of sugar to each quart of the mashed fruit. Stir well together and pour into a clean cask. leaving the bunghole open. It should be ready for bottling in a month. Fruit syrups may he k. pt on hand ready for serving. For lemon syrup add to the juice of twelve lemons the grated rinds of six. and let stand over night. Take six pounds of white sugar and make a thick syrup. When cool, add the lemon juice, strain and bottle. When serving, a tablespoonful of the syrup Is sufficient for a glass of water. For strawberry syrup take several boxes of fine ripe strawberries and press their juice through a cloth. To each pint of Juice add a pint of simple syrup and boil gently for an hour. Remove from the fire, and, when cool, bottle, sealing the corks. Serve, mixed with water to taste, in glasses half filled with crushed Ice, To make raspberry shrub allow eight quarts of berries to one pint of acetic acid and four quarters of water. Put all the ingredients Into a stone jar and allow the mixture to stand for forty-eight hours, stirring occasionally. For each pint of juice add a pound of sugar, boil for fifteen minutes, and bottle while hot. When cool, refill the bottles. Pound the corks in tightly, cut close to the bottle, and dip in hot wax to seal.

For and Against Man. Philadelphia Telegraph. "I do get so disgusted with men, sometimes," snapped the Cynical Woman. "What's the matter now?" "Oh, they are such babies, and have to be humored so." "But that, perhaps, is the fault of their bringing up." "Oh, yes, lay the blame on somebody else. That Is the way they do. Just as if they couldn't do something for themselves when they get out of leading-strings and do a little training on their own account, if they didn't get it in childhood. A man has a furious temper, and he'll excuse it by saying, 'My mother never taught me to control it.' Why doesn't he teach himself control? Is he to be a baby always?" "Goodness! You certainly are full of wrath this morning. What has stirred you up?" "I wanted Clara to do something, and she said she would wait until her husband was in a good humor to ask him. The idea of a woman In her right mind standing around and waiting till her husband Is in a good humor to ask him for something that is perfectly sensible! I couldn't stand that." "Wouldn't you rather stand it than go without the thing you wanted?" "It's the principle of the thing." said the Cynical Woman firmly. "The idea of a woman having to depend upon a man's humor instead of his reason and sense of right. Her wishes must wait upon his digestion or the state of the stock market. If these go wrong and he Is In a bad frame of mind, she perforce must put her wishes aside and be as meek as a church mouse and as patient as Griselda." "But it is better to do it for the sake of peace in the family." "Peace! Huh! I don't call that peace. I call it slavery. I would fight the thing to a finish and have real peace with declared terms and a plain understanding." "That wouldn't be peace. That would be armed neutrality. You have to take man as he is, not as you want him to be. A made-over man is worse than a warmedover dish. You may be proud of your handiwork, but he seldom is." "That isn't the point." said the Cynical Woman. "Let him make himself over. Instead of humoring and giving in to him, let him know he's got to mend his ways." The other woman shook her head. "Man never was a success at mending," she said. To Give the Traveler. New York Sun. Many a voyager is a victim to the Illtimed generosity of friends who have never "been abroad" and so have had no occasion to know the exigencies of steamship life. A useless gift is never less welcome than when one's estate is limited by the walls of a stateroom and the arms of the steamer chair. Here are some suggestions for suitable gifts. First of all. since the correct early morning costume for the stroll to the bath tub is bedroom slippers and mackinFOULARD Tucktd Blouse 4449. Tucks of all widths are conspicuous on all the better gewns and peculiarly effective in soft silk. This smart gown shows them in dove gray foulard figured with white and is combined with a yoke of cream guipure lace over white moussellne. The waist Includes one of the new pointed yokes BSS9W which are tucks laid In diagonal lines and closes Invisibly at the back. The skirt is circular with a circular flounce and is tucked In diagonal groups that match those of the waist. The quantity of material required for this medium size is, for waist, 3& yards 27 or

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(W "afar -." iv- i w '.-iVtj I JP1 the modern fable of the unsympathetic parent "ns! gg4 Wl0 TURNED DOWN THREE DIFFERENT VARIETIES

(Copyright, 1903. by Once there was a long-headed Father who had taken the Junior into the DownTown Office and was trying to eradicate tne Greek and Latin from his System. The Junior was a Lovely Chap whose Clothes came to about twice his Salary. He resembled the smooth-faced Hero of a Richard Harding Davis $1.50 Book. By keeping his Hair neatly gummed down and wearing the right shape of Collar, likewise vamping a few tender Chords on the Piano and holdings up his end in a light-weight Conversation, he had managed to elbow his Way into the Front Row of that Select Dhision of the Human Race known as the Landed Gentry, because they got Landed so often. Bertrand Flappingdale was the Name of this particular Confection. In Our Set he was known as Bertie and among the Employes at the Shop he was known as a Bluff. Bert's Pathway in Life was so nicely Lubricated and every one was so awfully Nice to him that after a while he felt reasonably Certain that the Earth and the Fulness thereof had been dished up especially for his benefit and he could cancel the Order any time that he saw fit. Flappingdale, Senior, had never smoked Egyptian Cigarettes and attended Junior Proms during the Incubator Period. He had been too busy trs'ing to make the Meal Tickets last from one Saturday Night o another. The only Time he got real Lungy was when he told how he used to work for Six a Week and plant $100 a Year In the Building and Loan Association. It had been many Years since they took his Boiled Dinners away from him and made him eat Artichokes, but he was still a Farmer at Heart. And when they threw him Into the long-tailed Regalia with the misfit Tie, he had Yap stenciled all over himself. You may take one of these self-made Luminaries and wean him away from his Pie and rub him with Silk Underwear for years but you cannot iron the Lines of Rugged Character from his Front Piece nor separate him from the Homely Doctrines that were called to his Attention by means of a Hickory Gad some forty years earlier in the Game. Consequently, the elder Flappingdale did not hit it off to any large Extent with Bertie's Friends, most of whom had their Names already set up in the Society Column 365 Days in the Year but not one of them could have figured a 2 per cent. Discount, unless he had taken a Day off. They did not care for Business, but Business never seemed to Languish much on that Account. One of the Hard Jobs that Fate had mapped out for Flappingdale, Senior, was to prevent his blue-eyed Offspring from being abducted and snaked away to the Altar. The Trouble was that Bertie wanted to be Abducted. About every Change of the Moon he would begin to act more or less Dippy and cut out the Office altogether and go Girl-Hunting in his cream-colored Chariot with one Horse hitched in front of the other one. Then the head of the Works would have to call him in and put some Cracked Ice on him and get him cooled down. The first one to lay him out and have him Fluttering was a 90-pounder about six weeks from the Nursery. The cold-blooded Guvnor begged him not to rob the Cradle and wanted to know something about her Knowledge of Housekeeping, which is invariably a Stiff Jolt for Love's Young Dream. While Bertrand was awaiting for tosh, a pair of crochettect or knitK J bootees, ankle high, will be sure to be hailed with delight that is, unless they are made of bright and conspicuous colors. Shoe color shades should be chosen dark browns or black. A bag for the deck in which to keep one's handkerchief, book, salts and the like is another indispensable. Blue ribbon and white ribbon in alternate stripes is excellent for the purpose. It should be made large enough to hold a magazine or book of good size. Then there is the pillow for the steamer chair. Many persons prefer this made into a sausage-like roll and tied together at the ends. The head occupies the aperture in the center and holds the cushion against the back of the chair. A bag for the state room door in which to put stockings and WITH LACE Circular Tucktd Skirt 4359. 2A yards 44 Inches wide, with yard for yoke; for skirt, 10 yards 27 or 6 yards 44 im hes wide. The waist pattern 4449 is cut in sizes for a 32, 34. 36. 3 and 40 inch bust measure. The skirt pattern 4399 is cut in sizes for a 22. 24. 26, 2S and 30 Inch waist measure. PATTERN COUPON For patterns of the two garments illustrated above send 10 cents for each ( otn or stamps.) Cut out Illustration and inclose It In letter. Write your name and address distinctly and state number and slse wanted. Address Pattern Dept.. The Journal. InOlanapoila. loa. Anowone'week fer rat uwof pattern.

Robert Howard Russell

a Chance to elope with the Bud. a New Show came to' Town and there sipped across the Horixon of his Fresh Young Life a Hurrah Soubrette who wore Holes in the Stage every Evening doing a very refined Coon Number. From the moment when he looked up at her and saw that she had taken notice of his Presence on Earth, he passed Into a Sweet Trance, from which he did not fully Awake until the Troupe left Town, when he found himself watching the Red Light disappear around the Curve and realised that he had played his Violets on the Wrong Number. The Busy Lover always goes from ons Extreme to another, so the next Crack out of the Box what does Brash Bertie do but get himself all worked up to a Temperatur of 104 over the kind that is known ss Terribly Bright The one he was determined to Marry, unless somebody got out an Injunction, sat around In an off-color kind of a sad. Mother Hubbard make-up and handed out Brilliant Conversation that was good enough to be taken down in Short-Hand and put right into a Book. She threw her Search-Light on the helpless Bertrand and dazzled him to a Fare-ye-well. She got him into a Turkish Corner and told him of the Yearning of her Soul and all about hay Empty Life and how she had groped fsj) an Affinity, and although he muffed a goo4 many of her Points and was clear of the Ground most of the Time, he realised that he was in the Presence of one who could take him by the Hand and show him a lot of Things that he had never been wise to, as yet. So he wanted to marry her and sit around all Day with his Head on her Shoulder and have her talk Copy, worth about 3 cents a Word. Father noticed that he was off his Feed and looking wild out of his Eyes, so he called him in and wanted to know the name of the New One. "Cut it out," said he, when he had learned the Horrible Truth. "Home is not a Lecture Bureau. I don't blame any Man for Marrying a Woman who has got the Intellectual Bulge on him. In these Days of Thursday Afternoon Clubs and Reading Circles, it's a Cheap Grade of Wife who hasn't got the hebend of the Outfit beaten to a Pulp. Nearly every Woman knows more than her Husband, but it helps some if he has enough Gray Matter to enable him to chip in now and then. If only to give her the right Cues. But 30 years would be a long Time to sit at one end of the Dining-Room Table, feeling about the size of a Roach. I have known several speciments of the Victim who marries the Woman who is going to lead him on and on. She leads him on and on, until he begins to Blow, and then she usually goes on and on with something wearing a White Necktie and an Alpaca Coat. If I were you, I should marry some one of about my own Mental Calibre. Of course, you may have to hunt a long time, but when you locate her you can tell that she is the Right Kind. Any one who will agree to Marry you is in your Class, and you can gamble on that." "I have tried the Innocent Young Thing, the Sophisticated Soubrette and the Cultured Club Girl, and you kick on all of them." said Bertrand. "They are all Nice Girls," said Mr. Flappingdale. "Let's wait until we spot one who has something coming to her and then we will put up a Good Joke on her." MORAL: It is a Wise Father That tumbles to his own Son. shoes, hairpins and all the small accessories of the toilet as one prepares for bed will prove useful as well at hotels during laud journeyings. Since space is precious in the steamer trunk, the bag should be made of a thin material that will take little room. Silkaline, light chintses and the like are suitable. Cut the back about the slse of a stateroom door and on it fit pockets, big and little, all bound with ribbon. But the token of all others that will be most apt to insure a coveted photograph from abroad and lasting gratitude from the recipient will be a Jar of pickles or olives, which no one else will ever think of. A thousand miles at sea, in between meal hours, a pickle takes on a wonderful flavor aad piquancy, and is sure to be treasured where sweets would go overboard. For the woman who is always read) to play the part of hostess a box of choice tea for the afternoon tea hour will be a boon, for ten to one it will draw about i her a constellation of the brightest wittiest stars on board. Odds and Ends. If the hands are well powdered with talcum powder before putting on kid gloves in summer, there will be little danger of the gloves being ruined by perspiration. To polish shell combs rub first with finely powdered charcoal moistened with water, and then with prepared chalk moist-eri-d with vinegar. Polish with the palm of your hand and dry chalk. It is no longer considered necessary or even desirable to mount muslin gowns over silk, the dainty lawn foundations now used being made elaborate with hand-sewn la e motives, frills and headings. Lacy, frilly lawn and batiste petticoats are much more fashionable than silk. Incidentally they cost quite as much if not more. Onion sandwiches are good for schoolgirls, and the continued use of them does wonders for the complexion. "Fresh onion and leek, new skin in a week." an ancient doggerel puts it. Slice the onions as thin as possible, salt, and place between slices of bread and butter. A bit of parsley helps to take away the odor from the breath. For currant punch currant Jelly is the main ingredient. Boil together for five minutes a cupful of sugar and three quarts of water. Remove from the fire and. while the syrup is still hot. dissolve in It two one-half pint glasses of currant jelly. Add three lemon. and three oranges, sliced very thin. Place it on the ire until chilled and scve in glasses partly filled with crushed ioe. Is the recent Influx of civil war novels and plays responsible for the return of so many old fashions? Now we have the undersleove again. That was always a beautiful fashion, and ought to be welcomed at the present time. Lace as well as em1 broidered batiste and linen underslev are to be had and are worn with foulard and veiling dresses made with short, flowing sleeves. Sparkling lemonade is made by substituting carbonic for plain water. To make a rufflcient quantity for twenty-five persons allow three dozen lemons, three pounds of granulated sugar, six oranges, one pineapple, one box of strawberries and four quarts of carbonic water. Squeeze the Juice from the lemons and remove the pips. Put It into the punchbowl with the sugar and stir until dissolved. Slice the oranges, shred the pineapple and hull and wash the berries. Then add them all to the lemon Juice. Put a large cube of ice in the punchbowl and Just before serving add the carbonic water, which has previously beer, chilled. A l ause for Divorce. New York Evening Sun. "Cruelty." In matrimonial suits, has taken many shapes. But a farmer's wife of Laporte. Ind.. shows ingenuity in her plea for a separation. She says that she endures great mental anguish because of having to live in the country. In other respects her husband has treated her kindly. H has provided her with frock, hats, tihoes. stockings, all in the latest styles. But what Is the use of it all if there is nobody around ta see and admire the glad rags? This case should prove of great Interest to the race of "Sociologists." Here is one ezplanatloa of the drift toward the city, of which as much has been said of late years. Medical experts have pointed out that insanity Is very prevalent among the women folk a Western farms. What is the cause of this? Is it the solitary life. or. on the other hand. is it tne a Dee nee ox opportuamea tor tortal display?