Indianapolis Journal, Volume 52, Number 250, Indianapolis, Marion County, 7 September 1902 — Page 22

PART TWO.

THE IXDIANAPOLTS JOFRXAL. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7. 1902.

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS

N fall street attire there 1 a noticeable return toward simpler tailoring. Features that how this tendency are basque coats, habit coats, threequarter coats, the short walking jdcirt and the decline of the shaped flounce. There is a fancy for the use of two materials, one rough, one smooth. In walking gowns. Rough tweeds, friezes, cheviots and checked materials are very at tractive in color, and show many beautiful blendings, particularly in browns ana greens. Greens are more conspicuous than usual in such materials, and appear very often in brown, gray or blue mixtures. There is a blue tweed with a very small green pin check that mskes up prettily, and there are rough browns shot with threads of dull blue and orange that are attractive in tailor gowns. Suede leathers are an accessory on many new tailor gowns. The leathers are found in almost any color, and are used in bands, pipings and for cuffs, collars and belts. They make pretty waistooats, too. Suede coats made over frieze skirts are a stylish novelty. Belts and pipings of vivid orange leather are shown on some dark wools, on which they are the only high color. Finish of bright stitched silk furnishes the needed dash of contrasting color in other gowns. Thus in the gown of this initial picture, which was green tweed shot with white. the collar and tabs were red taffeta stitched in white and finished with pearl buttons. AH walking skirts are unlined. Circular skirts have disappeared. The gored skirt, with flare below the knees and heavy stitching or strapping. Is fashionable, but the pleated skirt is the newer model and seem, s to be the coming sort. It ap years in side or kilt pleats and In very broad, shallow box plaits stitched down to below the knees and then left to flare. These skirts are very hard to shape, and fit smoothly over the hips. Some are made with a closely fitted plain hip yoke, to which the plaited skirt is attached. With these are seen the modified Norfolk Jacket and the loose blouse coat with basque, especially for outing suits, where they are preferable to etons or bolero jackets. All skirts are a trifle shorter than last season, while those for house and evening have sweeping trains. New flannel waists are a little more se vere than formerly, some being very plain. showing a few gathers in front and plain backs. Others are finished with strappings of leather, of the material or some other fabric, and are stitched, tucked, plaited and gathered. Few are made with yokes, but now and then one shows a gathered yoke Little vests of contrasting material are put on many of them. Sleeves are tight at the top, but very full below the elbow, and iiave plain or odd cuffs. Much diversity in wraps is indicated for fall and winter, hut long and three-quarter coats are so richly furnished and are alto gether so handsome that they probably will dominate. Light cloths and fancy silks are used for these coats, and many handsome I velvet coats are seen. They are more elab orately trimm, d than in former seasons. hang looser all around, and have Immense bell sleeves or huge puffs. Stole ends and fancy collars adorn many to be used for evening and carriage wear this winter, Slack velvet makes up stunningly trimmed with gold or silver embroidery and heavy OF M1RUOK VELVET ecru lace. Moire is greatly liked, and looks well when trimmed with heavy cream lace and black or bright colored velvet. Changeable silk Is used for short coats, with a trimming of guipure. Newmarket coats promise to be stylish, and the favored colors are red and scarlet. Loose mantle coats are seen. too. Some close-fitting short coats have shoulder capes that dip to a point at the back. The shoulder portion of the cape Is buttoned back to give a hood effect. Besides all thess coats, there will be more caps than have been worn recently. A large share of these outer garments have a look of novelty, so the array of them now In the stores Is especially interesting. Pictured here is a cape of silver riy moire hanging full and cut away in front, with a gray velv. t collar; a long white broadcloth cl-.ik trimmed with silver embroidery and rose pink velvet, and an odd short coat of gray moire, with cape collar and trimming of each pink rose Tuchings. Tassels are seen on all sorts of gowns and are made of everything, from wool or 41 It, to gold, silver, steel or pearls. Fringe, too. is employed more than It has been in many years, and Is knotted in colors to match the Oriental, Russian and Persian mbrotderles that are used so much. Embroidered stoles are finished at the end with deep fringe to match. Yet another new embellishment Is illustrated by pretty whits

w

wool gowns trimmed with broad bands of red asd blue Russian cross stitch boffd by plain red taffeta bands. This CT OSS stitch is very effective, giving an especially fine bit of color and ornamentation to dark wool gowns. Kings or neavy DiacK corn are uen for trimming, too, usually running throush rows of wide braid. Mirror velvet, almost as fine and soft as crepe, is one of the season's very handsome materials. It is pushing panne to the wall, and small wonder when its quality and colorings are considered. It will be used for almost everything cloaks, coats, street and visiting gowns and evening gowns. In the light shades it is, perhaps, at its b t. Silvery shot effects in peach pink, blue, Nile green and rose pink are lovely, and in combination with rich lace and trailing silver embroidery will be rivals of sheer transparent fabrics. Swisses, mousseiines,. are also to be combined with velvet. Sil very green mirror velvet, about the prettiest shade of all, was the material of the left-hand gown of to-day's third pic ture. It had pipings :,id revers of black and white striped silk, and was embroidered in gold. Peach pink, named as hand some for this velvet, is in general favor, and is much used in liberty satin for house dresses, with lace and chiffon trimmings. Delicate blues are liked for house dresses, too. A blue liberty satin gown is shown here. Its fichu draping of white chantilly

SAMPLES OF MANY NEW WRAPS.

was caught at the waist with a black velvet bow, and its shield was smocked white chiffon. Empire models in satin and velvet are very swagger for evening and house wear. Dressy attire will be no less elaborate than it has been recently. Its skirts will fit very closely about the hips and flare at the bottom. Some skirts will be made with yoke effect at sides and back, the front having a wide box plait stitched down flat. Other gowns will have gathered yokes, or else the top part will be in rows of AND LI libtt i Y 8ATIN. gather, the body of the ?kirt falling full. Double, triple and quadruple skirts will he fashionable all winter. Skirts with deep flounces of lace or embroidered material are to be worn. Bodices will be rather elaborately trimmed, a shield front of tucked chiffon or some transparent material being an oft-repeated feature. Collars are to be fashionable, cape and shawl-styled predominating, these to be made of silk, velvet, handsome lace or embroidery. Thin cloths will be worn during winter for afternoon reception and dinner gowns. Fichu effects and the surplice bodice appear here and there. Fancy bows at the bust and at the side of the belt are still favored, as well as the large bow at the center of the back. New fall skirts are rather striking In coloring. Striped weaves have several colors, as a rule, the stripes both wide and narrow. Flowered silks are pretty, some with such large, sprawling patterns as to remind one of Dolly Varden. Dresden designs are to be stylish. Silks are a little heavier in texture, and have a soft, satiny appearance. New laces are very heavy, and come in cream, white, ecru and black. Woolen laces are to be worn considerably, and these are tinted to match the gown. Finer laces, such as Chantilly. Valenciennes. Mechlin and Maltese, will be used on transparent materials for evening. A deep coffee tint in heavy lace la about the best liked

shade. Mack coming next. Black looks well trimmed with this coffee shade. On sheer gowns are put handwork, embroidery and lace, and winter gowns repeat those of summer in these trimmings, cord braiding is put on the thinnest gauzes with good results, and the silver lace that has been employed so much is combined with white lace. Tiny blossoms are set on daintv fabrics in large rings, and scarfs of lace, tulle or satin are threaded through them. Scarfs are also drawn through cloth cut in lattices or circles for trimming cloth or wool gowns. The cape collars so conspicuous just now call Into service all the fine, short-haired furs. Krmine will be fashionable, partly as a medium of black and white combinations. It is ready in capes, cape collars, long cloaks, empire scarfs, stoles, muffs and trimmings. Chinchilla, seal and baby lamb are standard, and beaver and otter will gain new favor. The fiat stole, in one form or another, is the most fashionable of the small fur pieces. It is wider and longer than in recent seasons. Loosely fitting blouse coats, with long basques or skirts, are made in flexible fur, and are ornamented with touches of embroidery and lace on belt, collar and cuffs. More loose box coats of fur will be seen than in the last few winters, and all the flowing

exaggerated lines of the summer coats are to be repeated in fur for those who can afford euch costly garments. New York. Sept 6. THE MAX MILLINER'S PRATTLE. An Experience Which Shown thnt You ( an Do Anything; If Yon Try. New York Sun. They climbed into a Broadway car at Twentieth street and sat down on the front seat, facing the rest of the car. They ware from the Middle West Indiana or Illinois. One was tall and spare and nervous. His hair was clipped very short. but he wore a long silky mustache. The other man was stocky and clean shaved. Opposite them was a well-set young man, with a square jaw, a clear gray eye and a tine coat of tan. The Westerners were talk ing fast when they got into the car and they continued to talk, without a moment's pause, al! the way down town. "But I never liked that shade of green." said the tail man. "And I shall never be brought to like it. even if it is all the rage. It's the same burnt orange and, in fact. most yellow. You remember Miss Conlan and her eternal yellow roses? I believe she set me against the color." "I could tell her hats a mile," said the other man. "How they are piling on the fur. aren't they? "Ys. And do 1. t me tell you the swell thing I picked up thlo morning. It is a round turban effect, the brim deeper in the back than in the front. The crown is mink and the brim alternates bands of mink, folds of white satin, appliqued with lace, and tuckings of white chiffon. A garland of white roses and pale green leaves on the left side, to droop over the hair, you know. fastened with a green and gold buckle. "How perfectly sweet!" exclaimed the stocky man. The square-jawed young man leaned forward with a dared expression. He seemed uncertain whether his eyes or his ears de ceived him. "It is. 1 assure you. Then another, simpler, but not so pretty. A sort of Greenaway to wear low on the forehead. It is made entirely of quillings of pale pink and hortensia violet taffeta. There is a chou of pink chiffon in the front, with a wreath effect of small green leaves. In the nark a rhinestone buckle and long, drooping ends of black velvet ribbon. "But. my boy, they're not wearing droop ing ends. Why. they're entirely out." "Don't you believe it," said the tall man "Evi rything is going to droop flowers, ribbons, feathers. By the way. you're tak ing back plenty of cock amazons, I nope? "Oh, yes. You know I'm not touching trimmed goods this year. I m buying plen ty of beaver and plush. Plush will have a great run with us. Me pulled a handful of samples from one of his nor-kets. and the two men bent over them with enthusiasm. The square-jawed young man gazed at them in sheer fascina tlon. "Isn't the Alice Roosevelt pink a dream? And look at this ping-porg blue." "Lovely," cooed the tall man. "That cafe frappe brown is a winner, too. But I don't fancy that Mont Pelee red. Too much yellow in it. By the way, I saw Miss Ktrbj yesterday. She has quit Jones & Brown. Had you heard? No. You don t say. Jones won't fill that place in a hurry. Miss Kirby's hats are real snick. "But they never had the quiet elegance of Miss bilversteln s. said the tall man. critically. "There's a woman with an eye for de-tails. I've known her to study a hat half an hour, convinced that it wasn't quite to suit her. Finally she'd say: 'This thread is drawn too tight. That's the whole trouble.' Have you seen her this trip'." Have T? Ha! Ha!" giggled the stocky man. "My boy. I ve not only seen her. but I've pot ;i date wtih her that will make you simply green. She has invited me to spend a whole evening with her to watch her trim: The square-jawed man staggered to his f e t . pulled his hat down to his ears, and plunged desperately out of the car. A Novel in Pin Pricks. Worcester Spy. C. Albert Fairbanks, of Worcester, who has been blind for thirty-time years, or since he was two years old, has published a novel. It was written by the Braille system of pin pricks and thtn translated by a friend, whose copy was the manu script used by the publishers. Would You lie Young- Again f Would you be young again? So woul 1 net 1. One tear to memory glv'n, onward I'd hie. Iain's dark fio!W forded o'er, AH but at rest on shore. Say. would you plunge once more, W.th home so nigh? If you might would you now Retrace your way? Wander through thorny wilds. Faint and antiay? Night's gloomy watches fled. Morning all blooming red, Hope' smiles around us shed, IP a t n ard away.

H here are they gone, of yore M best delight? Pear and more dear, tho now W'li. re they rejoice to be. There Is the land for me; Fly. Time, fly speedily; Come. Llls and Light. Ladjr Nalrna,

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

SOME OF THE l( ONSIDKH T IM.OI'LE WHO ( OME TO VISIT I ft. One Rmpprt In Which American Women Are Deficient Onr Lnnndrr Bills Odd and Ends. "You look tired, dear." said the woman in ?ray. "Has your cousin gone?" "Yes." sighed the blue-eyed one. "She left at 6 this morning." "Six? Isn't that pretty early?" "My maid thought so. said the blue eyed one. Then, says a writer in the New York Times, she burst into indignant explanation. . "It wasn't nice of Mollie. It wasn't! It wasn't considerate. She studied the time table and she found that by leaving here on the 6:02 a. m. train she could save twenty min utes at R . You know the connections aren't very good. That meant we must have breakfast a quarter after 5, Which meant, of course, that Bridget must get up about half past 4. I begged her to take a late train, but she simply wouldn't listen. She said she never slept very much, any way, when she knew .she was going to do anything particular the next day. So here I am, all tired out and with a cross maid on my hands, and she has saved twenty minutes!" The gray gown was properly sympa thetic. "People are funny," she said, "and when they are visiting a good many of them are funnier. I have an aunt a dear, good woman, and I love her. She comes to me often, just staying a day or two, and I never can make her believe I'm not turning the house upside down for her. She will say, 'Have a simple luncheon, dear, please don't get anything extra for me.' 'Why do you bother about having any dessert for lunch; I don't care at all,' or 'This is very nice, indeed, but you shouldn't have done it for me.' Some day I'm going to turn on that woman and tell her I don't live like a pig when she's not here." T don't know why," said Blue Eyes, "but it is a comfort to fee' somebody else has the same troubles that you do. And as for company! There was Jack's sister. A nice, kind girl, but she has taught school for ten years and she simply must be managing something. She will say, 'I think you ought to speak to Bridget about this,' or 'I shouldn't allow that if I were you,' or T think this tea is boiled, dear tell Bridget it mustn't happen again,' until I feel as though I should throw something at her. She staid with me three weeks this summer, and I don't think there's a thing about the house she hasn't tried to regulate in some way. Of course she means to be kind, but it's meddling, just the same." "I had a guest once," said the Gray Gown, "who came to me from paying a visit to some rich people who were distantly related to her. I was just married, and we were living very simply, and be fore that woman went home 1 hated the very sound of the Blanks' name. I had one inefficient maid, and 1 knew my meals were neither cooked nor served quite properly and at breakfast, dinner and supper I heard how the Blanks' butler served this thing and how the Blanks' cook prepared that. I've seen a good deal of Mrs. Blank since then, but I have never entirely got over my objection to her and her name." "Did I ever tell you." said Blue Eyes, re flectively, "how a friend of my mother's came here once without any warning and brought two strangers to luncheon?" "Fancy!" said the Gray Gown. "Jack and I were alone, and there wasn't much to eat In the house. It was awful. I never liked the woman, anyway. She was one of the people who were always saying people must take her as they found her. which meant she could do anything she wanted to, and other people must put up with it." "It always does," said the Gray Gown; like these 'sensitive' people, who always walk right over other people's feelings. It's only their own they think about." "Exactly," said Blue Eyes. "I had a sensitive guest once. She was always thinking people didn't want her. If any body else had more attention than she did, she'd go off with her feelings hurt. I call it sulky, but she thought she wasn't un derstood. I think she felt a little superior about it, but apparently the never once thought of its being unpleasant tor me." "I am going, next week, said the Gray Gown, "to visit a cousin of my husband's. And this is what I am going to do. I am going to arrive at a reasonable hour, when It will Inconvenience no one to have me coming in. I am going to realize that there are times when my hostess doesn't vant me around, and then I will am ise myself and make her understand that I am con tented to do so. I am going to be moderately interested in her home and her af fairs, but remember that there are some corners of the house I am not expected to penetrate and some thing's that are none of my business. I will help her if I can do so unostentatiously, and I will refrain from giving her advice. If I do anything for her I will do it in her way, though I know twenty better ways. Too many better ways. I have found, being a weariness to the flesh. I will enjoy whatever she may do to

A STYUSH AFTERNOON GOWN.

Fancy Blouse 4048 Louisine silk is exceedingly fashionable for indoor wear, and takes the soft, graceful lines that are so becoming and attractive. This stylish gown shows the material In B -tel tan. with trimming of deep cream MM and front of cream chiffon, and is essentially smart. The blouse is novel and admirable in line and general effect, and the fkirt includes the circular flounces that give freedom and flare about the feet. The quantity of material required for the medium size is. for blouse. 3 yards 21 nu hes wide. 3 yards 27 inches wide or 14 yards 44 inches wide, with one yard of allover lace and one-half yard of chiffon; for

entertain me. and I will not tell her of the better things other people have Jone. And

I hall depart. I think, a little iefore she wants me to go." "I wish." said Blue Eyes, "that you would come to see me!" American Women's !ula Abroad. Si w York Evening Post. The S i ty of American Women in Liondon is the somewhat cumbersome name of a lub formed to bring American women together in the great metropolis and give them a center where they may enjoy the companionship of their fellow-country women. Its ambition, as is stated in its constitution, is "to bring together women who are engaged in literary, artistic, scien tific and philanthropic pursuits, with a view to rendering them helpful to each oth er and useful to society." The societv has mr.e rooms at Princes, handsomely decorated, which are always at the disposal of memtk rs, and a large banquet hall, where monthly luncheons are given on the first Monday. At these gatherings prominent women of any nationality are entertained and invited to speak on subjects they have made their own. Mem bers are privileged to entertain their English friends at stated times. Informal at homes arc held on the first Saturday afternoon of each month, to which members are privileged to invite both men and women. Music and recitations are indulged in, and the function ends in tea-drinking. Business meetings are held once a month. The constitution provides for election of active, honorary, life and nonresident members. Every candidate for active membership must be projosed by one member and seconded by another, and must be personally known by both proposer and seconder. Candidates residing outside the United Kingdom are eligible for election, provided they are personally known and properly vouched for by a resident member. The annual subscription fer active members is two guineas ($10.50); members living abroad and country members residing not less than fifty miles from London, one guinea ES); the entrance fee being two guineas. The president is Mrs. Hugh Reid Griffin, who is the only daughter of Mrs. WellsBeach, of Waterbury. Conn., formerly of Chicago. She has lived twenty-two years in England, and is the regent of the English chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution. The society has joined the General Federation of Women's Clubs in America an organization which is really international, as it numbers membership in India. China, Australia and several European countries. There is also an organization of American women in Paris, known as the Ladies' Club, which has a beautiful, commodious house on the Place de la Madeleine. There are large rooms in one building, and the annex, any one of which might be used as an assembly hall, irrespective of anterooms, toilets, kitchens, etc., for the accommodation of the club women of all lands. A first-class restaurant is on the premises, and meals are provided for all visitors in the dining room. The club now numbers several hundred members, whose annual fees, however, do not nearly meet the expenses of running the sumptuous quarters occupied. The founder, Mme. De Marcy, meets the deficit yearly out of her private purse. This club is now classed as one of the old organizations of Paris, although it had to combat a spirit of hostility as soon as its formation was first suggested. Twice a week there is a club dinner, and every day from 5 to 7 o'clock tea is served, while any member so minded is free to take her meals at the club regularly. Berlin has a club composed of American women; so has Shanghai, in China; Ceylon has a small society, composed mostly of the missionaries; Bombay has a Sorosls numbering several hundred members. Dr. Emily H. Ryder, who formed this, went afterward to Australia, where she started the Karrakatta, in Perth, in 1894, still in a flourishing condition. There is another interesting club in Adelaide, the president of which was in this country two years ago and was entertained by some of our prominent clubs. In Santiago. Chile, there Is a club belonging to the G. F. W. C. We will not mention the clubs of Manila. Alaska and Hawaii, as they belong in the category of those of our own country. The Coat of Cleanliness. Mrs. M. B. Sherman, In Collier's Weekly. There is one expense which has become so much second nature that it never occurs to us to curtail any part of it. A man may decide to economize and cut down on his cigars and drinks; a woman, imbued with the praiseworthy determination to reduce her living expenses, will make the braA'e resolution of buying fewer matinee tickets and less candy; but what man or woman, when puzzling over the problem of reducing expenses, ever considers the possibility of curtailing the "expense of keeping clean." As a nation, we are the cleanest. By foreigners we are looked upon as cranks. The English consider the morning tub part of the daily routine, but the necessity for frequent changes of underwear never enters into their calculations. The French are extravagant in the matter of clean and beautifully laundered underclothes, but a daily tub "mais e'est ennuyeuse!" In fact, plenty of warm water and castile soap goes against their grain. The hall-mark of the refined woman today is spotlessness. No bedraggled, lacetrimmed white petticoats, rumpled stocks or shirtwaists which have lost their pristine freshness are to be tolerated. The shirtwaist, primarily so plain and innocent-looking in its very simplicity, has developed into one of the most expensive articles in a woman's wardrobe. When it first appeared on the feminine horizon it was a simple enough affair, which could be laundered anywhere for 10 cents. It gradually became more complicated, until this season the fad for lace and embroidered confectiors makes not only a large hole in a woman's pocketbook as an initial outlay, but constitutes a weekly expense of no inconsiderable amount. From 50 cents to $1 is charged by the laundries now for doing up one of this Five - Gored Skirt 3881. skirt. I014 yards 21 Inches wide. 10U vards 27 inches wide or 6 yards 44 inches wide. The blouse pattern 4048 is cut in sixes for a 32. 34 . 36. 3S and 40-inch bust measur. The skirt pattern 381 is cut in sizes for a 22. 24 . 26, 28, 30 and 32-Inch waist measure. PATTERN COUPON For patterns of th two fftirmentt Illustrated above enU 10 cents for each (coin or stamps.) Cut out illustration and Inclose It In letter. Write j-our name and address distinctly and state number and siae wanted. Address Pattern lept . The Journal. Indianapolis. Ind. Allow one week for return of pattern

j jlt juu Li-r j JJinr jujuinrxji , j u u juftj mux jjjuxjxrr-jj irL j.sinir j

i

5 Little Lessons in Economy One remarkable feature of our summer is the unexpected changes of t- IHJSSlStlir A cool, crisp morning, with a hint of frost in the atmosphere, following a ay of intense heat and humidity, arill ft n sssJM quite a radical change in the appetii. well, and arouse a desire for some of the warm dishes which would not be relished under other conditions. Yh re are 3MB9 tasty little dishes which the hous. k- . r may get up for these em : g-nues which are very little trouble, as they require but a few minutes to prepare them and the materials necessary are always found in the refrigerator and on the pantry shelves of the provident, practical housek per. Eggs, which are always vailuble, with rare exceptions, may be used in many attractive and tasty ways, making suitable dishes for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Escalloped Eggs. This is a nice dish which is quickly made if you have cld mashed potatoes on hand from the day before. Reheat the potatoes over hot v. ater, so they will spread easily, then butter some scallop shells and line them smoothly with the potatoes. Cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters lengthwise, dip each piece into thick white sauce and arrange neatly on top of potatoes, cover with another layer of potatoes, rough the surface with a fork, brush over with beaten egg and place in a hot oven long enough to heat through and brown nicely. Serve with white or tomato sauce. Egg with Shrimp Sauce. Cut slices of stale bread into rounds with a large cake cutter and either toast or fry them a nice brown, allowing a round of toast for each egg to be served. Poach the eggs and trim them neatly, lay one on each piece of bread and serve with shrimp sauce, made as follows: Pick half a pint of fr. sh shrimps over carefully and wash well. Stew the heads and shells in a little water to make a cup of stock. Molt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until smooth, then add the stock, season with salt and pepper, and stir and cook until it begins to thicken; then add a few drops of anchovy sauce and the picked shrimps and let get very hot, pour around the eggs and bread slices and serve at once. Curried Sardines. Skin and bone six or eight firm sardines, season with pepper and season's fine shirtwaists. These flimsy, lace-trimmed affairs cannot be worn more than twice before they are ready to be laundered again. At least two of these find their way every week to the laundry, at 75 cents each, besides which are three or four tailor-made shirtwaists at 25 cents apiece, if white, 20 cents, if colored. This one item means between two and three dollars a week alone for the smart woman who prides herself upon her immaculate appearance. When the new stocks were first shown last spring, every woman's heart was gladdened. No more starched linen collars, from which every vestige of stiffness disappeared as if by magic a few moments after they were donned, and whose number swelled a laundry bill so enormously. But these hopes did not last long; for the coal strike came on, soft coal threatened to make New York almost a second Chicago or Pittsburg. Just as many stocks were soiled, and the laundry people charged double the price for doing them up. This rise in prices had no effect on the summer girl. She went on weariug her stocks only as long as they were spotless, and cheerfully economized on something else in order to meet her extra laundry bill. It never for a moment occurred to her to reduce that. Years ago, lace-trimmed und rwear was looked upon as being almost disreputable, and no woman of refinement ever dreamed of purchasing lt She contented herself with fine ruffles and tucking and hand embroidery. All this is changed to-day, and this item of underwear is one of the largest a woman has to consider. In proportion to the fineness of the lawn and lace the price for laundering them went up, yet she continues wearing as many, if not more, than she did when the price for doing up the plainly-trimmed garments was merely nominal. This season's fad of "tub gowns" has been a bonanza for the steam and hand laundries. Notwithstanding all this, the American girl is as fresh and spotless as though there was no such thing as the question of expense in keeping thus immaculate, and she is looked upon by her foreign sisters as being just the least bit in the world crazy! No greater proof of the growing cost of keeping clean can be given than in the succass of the steam laundries to be found in every town in the I'nited States. Where there was one five years agt there are ten to-day. The prices charged soon brings the garment to twice its original cost, and the treatment it receives at the hands of inexperienced workers rapidly reduces it to a condition of raggedness which makes it unfit to wear. Yet the American woman goes on hr way serenely, purchasing every new toil et concoction, paying enormous laundry bills, devoting hours to tubbing and keeping her clothes in order, economizing in any and every way except on that one Item the "expense of keeping clean." Traveling; Parties. Washington Star. The traveling party is a novel mode of entertainment which is being received with enthusiasm by the socially inclined. The party is easily arranged after this fashion: As the guests enter each woman receives a railroad ticket, or, rather, a facsimile of one, of home manufacture, bearing the name of a town or summer resort, such as Buffalo, Lake George. Chicago or Saratoga. The men are given duplicates of these tickets. Each then goes in search of the guest holding the double of his own ticket. The woman and man then seek out a small table, of which there are a number, arranged as for progressive eucnre. Two chairs are placed at each, and the guests sit down in pairs at them. If the tick's have the word "Buffalo" upon them the woman and man proceed to write togetle r a description of an imaginary Journey to that place, making it as humorous or literary in its character as possible. Previous to the guests, beginning to write these descriptions a young man in the uniform of a porter goes through the rooms and distributes pads and paper. Another amusing feature of the evening is the advent of a train boy in uniform, who calls out "fine candies," and from basket proceeds to supply the guests at the tables with small boxes of confectionery. The time limit for the getting up of the stories is from twenty minutes to half an hour. The stories are then read, and the guests vote on the most acceptable ones, the porter coming around and collecting the slip? of parcr in a basket. After the votes are counted the story receiving the largest number of them n cdTM two prizes, one for each of the writers, the s- ond, third and fourth stories receiving respectively the next largest number of votes are awarded other prizes. The prizes are all suggestive of Journeys and may include traveling cases, akin r mounted flasks, books for whiling away the hours on a tramp, blue glasses, silver drinking cups, small traveling bags and other appropriate articles. At the conclusion of the distribution of prises the porter again passes through the rooms with boxes bearing tags lettered "Buffalo." "Saratoga." "Lake George." etc. On opening the boxes lunch is found within, sandwiches, cups of salad, fruit, chicken pattes. and another porter follows with ice cream, coffee and cake on a waiter. There is much amusement In the opening of the boxes, and the informal nature of the affair and its many surprises make it mm of the most enjoyable and novel entertainments whieh has y. I n devise,!. Where Oar Irl Fall. Table Talk. The only real knowledge is experimental knowledge, and while the vexed -täte of the servant question is due to many causes. one most potent cause is the Ignorance cf the mistress, and. consequently. I he unreasonable demands they make. It Is. too often, a case of the blind leading the blind.

H

Odd and AppetixinU Little Diahea That Are Kaaily Prepared and Add a Pleasina Variety to the Daily Mt nu

R

sprinkle a few drops of lemon Juice over them. Heat in the following curry auc and serve with a dish of plain boiled rice. Fry two mc dium-sised chopped onions and a sour apple, two bay leaves, a sprig of thyme, a little scraped carrot and celery in two ounces of butter until soft; then mix in smoothly one ounce of flour, add an ounce of curry paste and a pint of stock or milk. Stir and cook until the sauce is as thick as cream; add the sardines, heat very hot. arrange the boiled rice in a flat mound on a heated dish and place the curried sardine and sauce on top. serve at once. Spleed Tomato Sauce. This Is a very nie sauce to serve with cold meat, especially with a 'pick-up" meal. Take one pint of ripe tomatoes, fresh or canned, add half cup of good elder vinegar and simmer together for an hour if tomatoes are whole; then add an onion chopped fine, a small r I pepper pod. or quarter of an even teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar and half teaspoonful of mixed ground spices, mace, cloves, allspice and cinnamon. Cook another hour until the sauce is as thick as ordinary sauce, to which you have added flour thick i.ing. If you desire the sauce smooth, strain it through a sieve. Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce. Into a quart of fast boiling water put a cup of spaghetti broken into small pieces, add half a teaspoonful of salt and boil several minutes, stirring to keep the pieces separated; then cover and stand where it will keep just below the boiling point for twenty minutes; then bring forward and bod steadily for about thirty minutes. It must cook long enough to mash easily, but not long enough to destroy Its nutritive value. The cover may be left off for the last halfhour of the cooking, so that the water may evaporate and thus avoid the necessity of draining, as the macaroni is sweeter if it 1 not drained. Make the sauce as follows: Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan with a slice of onion, a clove and a sprig of parsley or piece of celery. Fry a delicate brown, add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir and cook until a pale brown; then add a pint of strained cooked tomatoes and cook a few minutes, remove the onion, clove and parsley or celery; add the spaghetti and season to taste with salt and pepper and serve steaming hot. Copyright, iy02, by J. B. Pinkhsra. One of the cleverest women I know told me that when she was married and went to housekeeping, and the maid came to her to ask how she would have the dinner table set, she had not the faintest idea what to say. She said: "I told her I was busy, not to Interrupt me Just then; then flew to my room and shut myself in, and I just agonized! Of course, I know how a table ought to look, but I had nev r thought of having to direct any one how to set it." American women are quick-witted and adaptable; and, for this, let us give thanks! Otherwise things would be a good deal worse than they are. But I all it a terrible blunder to speak mildly that a girl of twenty should be turned adrift upon society with her head crammed and her hands useless full of the fa?ts and fancies of history, literature, mythology, mathematics and a smattering of science, but unable to cook and serve a good meal. It may be, though this is unusual, hat, after she has studied everything else, she goes to a cooking school, and takes a few lessons, and learns to make something useful, like puff-paste. But. generally, she trusts to her inborn genius and waits until she has a home of her own; then the experiments besin and oh! the loyalty, trie long-suffering patience of our men would that I could do Justice to them! In time, the novice learns; but, meanwhile, what about the poisonous condition of the .refrigerator, which Bridget forgot? What about sour breao and scorched soup, and what about the good money that 1 wasted? 1 happened to quote to an American man the other day something which Robert Louis Stevenson says that "The American men are the best husbands in the world, but the American women are not the best wives." After a moment's pause my listener said: "That is perfectly true." I felt as if the sky had fallen. ( knew It was true, but I did not suppose the men knew it.) But I managed to ask. ' Whv? " "Because." he replied, "they are not thrifty; they do not do all they could to make home pleasantf they are not helpmeets. Their idea of life is to spend money and enjoy themselves." N w this was said in perfect slnceritv. by a man of at least average int- llig. n e and more than average Justice and kindliness. It would seem from this that our women have discarded Dame Gilpin's fcaving grace! NelfChborly Attention. New York Tribune. "When sending contributions to the menu of your sick friend," said the observant woman, "don't send along your richest china and linen. Of course, attractiveness is half the battle In tempting an invalid to eat. but if she is a housewife she will shiver with apprehension at the sight of delicate china, and burden her mind with the laundering of your damask napkin. It is better to use pretty little cheap bits of china and Japanese paper napkins. The pure white, silky variety of the latter are dainty Enough. And it is no kindness to a family burdened with sickness to leave the returning of things to them. Always send word that you will call for the tray later. "These conditions being followed." continued the observant woman, "there Is no more useful or neighborly kindness than the sending of delicacies to a house whero there is a si. kness. Of course, you don't know what the Invalid can eat. or that thj things will ever get into the sickroom. But those who are worn out with watching, with energy and vitality sapped by the sickroom, are Just the ones to prottt by your thoughtfulness. The sick child may be on a beef Juice diet, but if you coax his mother's appetite with fruit and little made dainties you are helping him Just ss much. "Especially is it a kind and friendly and Christian act to remember friends sick in a boarding house, where there is no hope of home dainties on the cut and dried trays that come up three times a day." Odda and F.nds. A Jar of lime on the nantrv shelf or on the cellnr floor will keep the room dry and the air pure. Those annoying white spots left by wet or hot dishes on polished and varnished furniture can be removed by spirits of camphor. Ticks of coarse unbleached murlln put on over the ordinary pillow ticks, and washed frequently, protect the pillows greatly. Dirt will work through pillow cases. Rough felt and beaver hats are evidently to be popular this fall, and long, sweeping ostrich plumes, crests, tips, quills and smartly sst wing appear ujon hats designed for various autumn wear. A white flannel cloth or piece of whits knit underwear dampened with kerosene will, it is said, clean any porcelain or metal bathtub. Dry the tub first and then rub lightly with, the kerosene cloth. Ev ry veatlge of foreign matter will dlssppear, sod an instant's brisk rub with a dry flinml will complete the task. A porcelain tub can be kept fresh as new by this treatment. Velvet in every form and color will bs very prominent this winter, both for trimming, and for gowns, for capes, costs and redlngotes. Silk embroidery and heavy guipure lures, outlined with ostlv dark fur. will form the choice decorations. English tailors are already using a great deal of corduroy and mirror velvets, claiming that they do not crush like plain velvet. The long empire cloaks and redlngotes with loose fronts will great lv help the light gowns to be worn next season. If thy are not quite so ltgbt as the gowns then . Ives, says a New York fashion article Many of them arc made of th- delicate biscuit, lawn and pearl shades- almost whlt but ths Blight tinge of gray or brown given to them seems to make all the necessary difference between a street garment and hq evening cloak. The popularlt of whits tailor costumes and light or white wraps will bring white furs into prominence again for evening wear.