Indianapolis Journal, Volume 52, Number 5, Indianapolis, Marion County, 5 January 1902 — Page 24

z

PHE INDIANAPOLIS JOU?NAI., SUNDAY, JANUARY 5, 1902.

. .1 '

. : i .

FURNISHING A HOME

The Uses of Chintzes and Cretonnes in the Bedroom.

"When tho upholsterers' shops present euch beautiful designs and coloring in llowt r-tl cottons as they now show, and when the prices for these stuffs range down to ond ; centr a yard, there is no excuse for the bare, uninviting bedroom. Th plainest bedstead, if valanced and curtained In a chintz which has the Jaintiest of pink losts scattered on an ivory grouvd. becomes a thing of real beauty; it is fittel then to adorn any lady's chamber, no matter how fastidious she may be, and simple, homely, old-fashioned rocking chairs may Le recovered and cushioned with this enticing flowery material so tljat they are metamorphosed completely. When there is a tieep window seat so covered, with soft pillows of the same, when a mirror over the A IIOYAhl.Y BKAUTIFUL HANGING mantle has a flat frame on which tome tieft. Ingenious woman has tacked a flowcry border, while she has also hung a Jlounce of chintz from the mantel shelf, the room has itself been transformed from v.h.it was possibly a cold and cheerless lipartment into a veritable bower. There are many little touches which an ingenious woman can give such a chamber to complete its charm after &he has done iill that can bo accomplished with her draperies. ?ho can carry out the quaint suggestion of the hangings by placing bits of polished bnss in view, such as candlesticks on the mantel, fire-irons underneath rind hinges and oval knobs as door handles. ihe can rummage through the attic or isit the second-hand shop until she has lound an oval mirror or picture frame such us was much in vogue fifty years ago, and Slaving fitted this with a good French plate looking glass, she should hang it against the delicate striped paper of her wall. The olor and finish of her woodwork is really immaterial, though an ivory white enamel is much to be desired if we can encompass it. She can have the floor painted and laid with rugs of woven rags if she cannot aflord Oriental carpets, and when all is accomplished she will look about her with delight and marvel that she has wrought Mich a change with such a small expenditure of actual money. To be sure, there will have been a somewhat extravagant outlay of time, strength and ingenuity, but as one's capacity in this way usually "grows by what It feeds on." she is in every way a gainer. THE I'SK OF DIMITIES AND OKflAXD1IIS. Tiie shfer white stuffs that float and cling, that lend the charm of transparency and delicate purity to tone to a simple bedroom, do not belong alone- In the rich man s home; they are equally in place in the cottage. In fact, it is an advantage of th unpretentious house, simply treated in its furnishing, that dimities and organdy, embroidered muslin and white dotted nets are peculiarly appropriate for Its decoration. When, as window draperies, these fascinating materials are hung under others which are heavier and warmer in tone, they lend just the lightness and airiness r.ecessary. They are inexpensive to buy and are serviceable because they are readily laundered. Their crip freshness lends an fdr of refinement to the plainest room and their white surfaces bring into strong relief the coloring of the room. For example, k modest little dining room with dark woodwork, dark furniture and green walls may wear an air of gloom until sheer and full white muslin curtains are Introduced to fill the window spaces. The green walls theti suddenly become illuminative, one perceives that a beautiful contrast is presented by a clear, cool, green and a dinphanous white, the dark furniture outi v. U5L OF EAST INDIA COTTON IN IJ E A 1! T I F Y lines itself against the green background with fr:!t distinctness and the dimity or orgai'dy hai. done its work. if Kh are some of the artistic possibilities of house furnishing. Fvery woman has an Innate Iov for homemaklnff. the majority r f womn have the artistic temperament c::d I hold that It is a nolle expenditure of the best that is in me to create from th material within reach a home atmosphere of rcrinmrut and actual l- auty. TiiF. i:i;tfkn of tjik Foun-rorfTun. Vith all of its quaint and old-fashioned fcccorapaniments. the four-post bedteai tz2 ocie back to To-day we are madly aai up unu uunu old Chinook com

, ...... i . ... j . w, ... ..... wnwig ipl.w,l,,, nip I ? v- -: :. . ' - ' - :r 'WW WWWWft W :' ... :.: . ' v ., . ! ' V:.: . .X Kl W " . . .: v. . . . ..... . ' . ' j, ...ri vAir - ' : . . . - : . r . . . , .y; -. . ' " v ' . : v ' ' r- '" ' " A ' vi '' ' y:sfAfi'J:J"yr- ' ' ' - . : J :; : :'- v: 'w -:;V 1 r C; "i ' : i4- , . . . . 4 . - . : - AI-, .k-- , . i tf i f " V U'JT - - Jt -- re xi: vvvfrr .. : . v : If -. : ; '.:: t-iv-' -a s : .. ,V y;s?-. -f,- " A --:.-M : : --"IS

... , . . T . ; . V v 1 ' - : . 1 1

searching the antique shop3 for what was not long since stored in our attics. Mrs. Mary T. C. writes to ask me howto curtain one, of beautifully carved mahogany, and for her benefit, and, incidentally, for that of others vho still retain or have acquired such pieces, I publish illustrations of three old-time bedsteads most artistically treated. No. 1 is hunt; in a royal way, although the hangings are of cotton. A two-foot valance around the canopy and single curtains at the head of the bed preclude all possibility of the stuffiness which was in the days of our grandmothers often the fault cf these beeis. A marked feature of these three rooms is simplicity, the furniture is of the handsomest, the colors used are rich and

FOU A KICHLY CA II V KD r.CDSTKAD. strong, and yet the lines and spaces are severely p'nin. The result in each case is a suggestion of cleanliness and purity of tone which is most restful. Nothing in the arrangement is "worried" or fussy, nothing tawdry, cheap or useless has been admitted. The note of color is struck in the roaI Bokhara rug, which lies on the floor in No. 1. It is a rich, dull crimson. The figures are ivory white and the floor is of dark polished wood. The window drapery and the led curtains are of a tine quality of French cretonne, which has the crimson chrysanthemums on a ground of yellow ivory shot with a damask figure. Straight scarfs of the cretonne outline the white ruflled curtains at the windows and are lined with yellow white sateen. The wall paper, which has the picture mold at the COIIHKCT DKAI'EKIES ceiling line, is a delicate pattern in ivory and gold. The woodwork is white enamel. The oval mirror over the simple little mahogany dressing table is particularly appropriate in style. A wicker chair, plain and handsome, is the only break in the mahogany furnishing of the room, and the superb old bedstead, with its fine carvings, is the piece de resistance. A KOOM IN YELLOW AND WHITK. Illustration No. 2 has bed curtains, a valance around the posts at top, and another around the legs, of white dotted organdy musliw. These valances and curtains are all trimmed with a four-inch rufile, giving a peculiar appearance to the whole. The coloring of the room i a strong, yet soft w.v? . .v. M.y v-v.y '.wavv v.w- -jy v.y. y. V -.V- .' - . Si' &cA?A V I G A SIMPLE KOOM AND IT FURNITURE. .-hade of yellow, with whito. The wall paper lias yellow flowers on a white ground and the woodwork is painted the yellow of this flower. The fluted silk that curtains the upper part of the windows in the rounded bay, is a still deeper tone of yellow and this strong noto is reproduced in the damask which covers the couch. One pillow of plain yellow and one of dull blue silk embroidered lie on this couch. On the hardwood floor there is an Oriental rug which contains much soft old blue. No. 3 is of a yet simpler style than the other two. The red here is the vivid scarlet of t:ast Indian cotton. There is almost an a - blowm' the Ter- 1 vory meat lying in

Y . H ':..-.: . ; : -

wwrw - r

affectation in the countrified air worn by this little bedroom and in its simplicity lies its chief charm. The windows are draped with a very fine quality of sheer white dimity, and the bed cover and valance are of the Fame material in a heavier East Indian cotton over the window tops, and the couch beneath has a cover of this brilliant and fascinating material. The chimney piece is faced with dull red brick and the delicate coloring of the French paper on the wall does not interfere with the general scheme of red and white. The plain lines of the high-backed rocker and the rug of rag carpeting on the floor emphasize the severity of this scheme, but the whole idea is relieved by the introduction of a mahogany desk, dainty and superfine, and two fine old mahogany chairs. TIIE WOOD FINISH OF A ROOM. Mrs. Dora V. writes that she is building and would like some advice in regard to the wood finish and the side walls of her bedroom. She has two Oriental rugs for the floor and mentions, as a guide to the color scheme I may design for her, that they have a great deal of soft old blue in them. She would prefer pink In walls and ceiling, either in paper or a wash, but is not certain that this coloring can be used with the blue rugs. To Mrs. V. I would say: If you have in your bedroom a dark polished floor, either in hardwood or stained and shellaced, and your rugs are in soft harmonious tones, you can use any side wall that you fancy, and the colors will not clash. A peculiarity of an Oriental rug is that wherever it may be laid, the color of its surroundings decides its dominant color. In other words, the blue shows off most prominently if the rug is laid in a room with blue walls or blue draperies. If your rugs have any of the lively old rose or faded pink seen in Turkish rugs running through them, you will find when they are used in conjunction with pink walls that this color comes to the surface. This is the secret of the universal success of these rugs as mediums for bringing colors together. Having many colors in soft gradations, they adapt themselves to any scheme. And now for your walls and woodwork. I would advise you to use side walls and window draperies of paper and French chintz or cretonne, of a design of pink roses and delicate green foliage on an ivory and white ground. The wood finish should be enamel in ivory white and the doors should have hinges and oval knobs of old brass. The picture mold, set eighteen inches below the ceiling, should also have a white enamel finish. A slender line of molding is in much better taste than an ostentatious one. The ceiling and top of side wall down to picture molding, should be calcimined in a delicate shade of pink. This color should correspond exactly with some shade used in paper and will emphasize the softest and most beautiful tone in the roses. If you wish to elaborate this room, to arrange a most becoming and fascinating light in it, drape your windows in thi? way: Hang over the glass very full and sheer curtains of fine white organdy. These should have a three-inch rullle down the front edge and across the bottom, drape them softly back about midway of your window, hang the rose-flowered cotton in straight full scarfs of drapery from top of window casing to sill, lining it with pale pink sateen. Now cover the lower s;ash of window with a sash curtain of thin pink silk, running a slender brass rod through a loose casing of the silk and

FOR A FOUR-rOST BED. so arranging them that they separate in the middle. They can thus be readily Flipped back and forth to influence the light in the room. As the outside of the house must alw ays be considered 'in window drapery, I must not advise these pink curtains if your bedroom is so situated that its windows show prominently in the street. It is much better to preserve a certain uniformity in the drapery which falls next the glass in the front windows of a city house. You suggest that a polished floor and rugs may seem cold in your bedroom in winter. You can obviate this possibility by using plenty of rich, warm rugs, or you can have the entire floor covered with Wilton fdling in plain green, selecting a cold shade of medium dark green such as you will lind in the foliage on the wall paper. This green is a good background for your rugs and it is the only color that will blend well with the pink in your walls. Mahogany furniture will Iook well in here, and I would advise the use of a low curving French bed. instead of a brass one. A slender mahogany stand holding a bowl of pink roses w ill add much to the charm of your room if placed between the white curtains of a window. Tall silver candlesticks holding pink candles with shades made of tiny pink roses will also look well in front of the mirror o:i the mahogany dresser. KATK GRKF.NL E A F LOCKE. ICopyright, 1002.1 .Nam oh of Material. Chambers's Journal. The line white linen of which cambric handkerchiefs are made is so called because it was first made at Cambria, in the department of the Nord. France- the gauzy fabric muslin is so named from the town ot Mosul, in Mesopotamia; nlpaca was originally mule from the wool of th Peruvian shtep of that name, akin to the Llama. In eighteen century romances we often read of garments made of padu:ioy, which was simply a smooth kind of silk originally made at Padua, sov or soie bt inFrench for silk. To this da'v shopkeepers who appeal to the custom of ladies are fond of labeling their goods with French names; and the description of the dreses at a fashionable wedding is a hidden mystery to the male reader. Mousseline de oie is simply silk muslin, and crepe de chine js China crepe. Crepe is also called from its wrinkled appearance and sharpns to the touch, and is the same word as we know in the form of crisp and apply to a iresh lettuce. The rough material ca'led frieze was originally made in Fricsland but twetd. although Scotch, is not named from the famous border river: it H a corruption of twill. It is. indeed, never safe to jump at apparently obviou3 derivations. T!i? Croat. Great is he Who ur his greatness for all. happy 1 h Of whom t himself amon? th drad Ar.d jolent. this word f.haJI b said: That hft miKht have h:id the world .vtth him lu chos to ?ii vrjth suffering m?n, Au4 had the world agaljist him. Elizabeth Uirrett Erownin. their path is a iure lor a Charlotte necxer,

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN

A SCUVAM CilHL, SAYS A WOKD COXCEHMXG DOMESTIC THORLEM. Women' .eeil of l'Iiienl Exercise The AVoman Lobbyist .o Longer Conspicuous. The editor of the New York Independent says: "Some weeks ago we published an article by a woman who tried, for a time, the life of a servant girl. One of our readers gave the article to his ?ister, who has been in domestic service for twenty years, and asked her to write up her experience. She thus replies in a personal letter to him, which he sends to us, and which we are glad to print." "I am sorry, but under present conditions it is impossible for me to write anything on any subject. Thi3 may seem incredible, but it will not be when I tell you that from 6 a. m. to 8 p. m. I don't get time to write so much as a postal card. After the day is over I am too tired, confused and nervous to do anything except look over the paper and go to bed. Including the basement, this house has four stories, and I have to go from the bottom to the top, or from the top to the bottom, about forty times a day. Sometimes the front and back door bells ring simultaneously, the latter down in the basement. Mrs 's customers and callers are numerous, and I have to answer the bell, then go up to her workroom and announce the name of each. There must be a million agents in Chicago, and a large proportion of these call here. I also do the marketing and housework, washing and ironing, and cater to the stomachs of these very fussy people. When 1 get to my room It is sometimes as much as I can do to tell "where I am at.' There are so many books here that I would like to read, but can't even get the time to look at. "I wonder if the time will ever come when servant sirls or anybody else will get any rest; or will the people who live at the beginning of the next century have to hustle as the people of to-day do, consoling themselves meanwhile by singing: 'We'll rest on the evergreen shore.' It is about the same with everyone who works, the 'Song of the Shirt,' with variations. With Mrs. and her two assistants it is 'stitch, stitch, stitch and keep the sewing machine buzzing all day long. Her customers are hurrying her for their dresses, so that she is nervous ami overworked. When I occasionally ask her what she would like to eat the usual reply is, 1 haven't time to think of it; get what you please. She is one of the few women I can stay in the house with in this capacity, and even if she made housekeeping her business she would be a good woman to work for." As to the article in the Independent, the young woman had no experience worth mentioning. She docs not treat the subject from a general point of view. Leaving the question of thirteen, fourteen or fifteen hours a day of hard drudgery out, 1 cannot see how anyone of pride and spirit would choose that kind of work, as she says she would, unless compelled to earn her living. The negroes of the South have as much chance of social recognition as have those who do domestic service in the North. Between them and society there is a great gulf fixed. Of course, I don't mean fashionable society, but any that a respectable, intelligent person would desire to be recognized by. The very name servant girl carries along with it a degrading sense of servility and serfdom that is resented in the most ignorant of them. Lately some enterprising and well-meaning women have formed a union here in the hope of bettering the condition of those whose lot it is to do housework. It is not called the "Servant Girls' Union. ' I believe it is the "Household Workers of America." What's in a name? Ask Shakspeare. A good deal sometimes. I am extremely optimistic of the servant girl problem. 1 think it wilKbe solved ome time in the millenium. Anyone reading the newspapers and other periodicals and not knowing the significance of the term would think the servant girl problem was some formidable dragon, such as mythological heroes used to distinguish themselves by exterminating. If one of the twelve labors of Hercules had been to solve the servant girl problem he never would have had the reputation he has. Cldcago, 111. To liaiii.sli irvoii9iira. New York Tribune. "Observe the young girls in any of our cities on their way to or from school," recently said a physician who is also a close student of physical culture, "and note how few have high chests, plump arms and a graceful carriage. In any large assemblage of women the greater number have llat chests, shoulders hollowed forward, pipestem arms and an inelastc, awkward walk. "It is all nonsense to say that a line physique, or the contrary, is natural. Nature will always be beautiful and perfect if one co-operates with her. Intelligent training ot the body, as well as of the mind, will make a weak body over in a year. "Nervous disorders would soon be vanished and beauty gainetl by a reasonable amount of simple exercise, calling for no costly aparatus, but expanding the lungs, strengthening the digestion and creating tree and vigorous circulation. This is .is true of women as of girls. There is no occupation in which the 'toning up' power of judicious exercise is not needful and helpful. The clerk, the factory operative, the seamstress or milliner, the stenographer or bookkeeper are all confined for many hours a day in an unhealthy and contracted attitude, with only a few minutes In exi reist. "It is the same with the married woman of limited means. Her tasks are almost numberless, and she needs strength of muscle and nerve every minute of tiie day. Ten minutes of definite, well selected exercise every day would give her a buovancy and flexibility that would make her daily labor a pleasure. The first thing to do is to bring up the weaker muscles by special effort that calls them at once into vigorous action, and to restore shoulders, back or chest to the natural and healthful position. When symmetry has been gained then equal exercise for all the muscles taken daily will keep all in good condition. "The amount of the exercise depends on the health of the woman at the beginning. Gradually it may be increased as she grows stronger. Every one can have a pair of two-pound dumbbells, and thev serve for all sorts of purposes. I should advise the woman who does not want to grow old to get a pair immediatelv. In the morning let lvr stand erect, throw the chest out firmly, breathe deeply and 'cutr dumbbells twenty-five times without stopping. Then, placing the bells on the floor, let her bend as little as possible to pick them up, keeping the elbows firm and rie to an upright position, , repeating twentvrive times. After a minute's rest, standing erect, let her lift the bells as far up and out behind her as possible, keeping elbows straight and taking care when the bells reach the highest point behind to hold them slid a moment. This is also to be done twenty-live times. Next, starting with the bells at the shoulders, push them up high over the head and lower twentylive times. "After another minute's rest start with the bells high above the head, touching Lower the arms to an exactly horizontal position, keeping elbows rigid. Hold the head back to face the ceiling directly overbead, and swell the chest as much as possible while doing this, and repeat ten times. This exercise is one of the best known chest expanders, and after two or three mornings may be executed thirtv times renting after every ten minutes for a half minute. "These five exercises have brought nearly all the muscles above the waist into activity Hnd filled the lim??, and th whole day will be brighter for them." "Women Lobbyists. Waldon S. Fawcctt, In Collier's Weekly. Women do not play as important a part in lobbying operations as they did before Speaker Reed ordered the closing of a reception room of which they held almost sole possession and where it was always convenient for them to meet congressmen However, a number of attractive women who have an acquaintance with many congressmen are regularly employed hy the in Amsne'a Magazine.

professional lobbyists, the usual ruse employed being to have them call at the Capitol and each send in a card requesting a brief Interview with some one representative Just at the time when an important bill is to be voted on and when the absence of one or two members may change tho result. , , , New members are the particular prey c the unscrupulous lobbyists. They analyze a newcomer with the skill born of long experience, and govern themselves accordingly. Verv seldom does one. of these adroit maniplators of men risk alarming his Quarry with the suggestion of a downright bribe, but the congressman is entertained at informal little dinner parties, where he meets some very agrreable people, his social and political ambitions are furthered in a quiet, unobtrusive but effective manner, and mayhap he is even made the recipient of carefully selected presents, such as cases of old wine or boxes of high-priced cigars, if be manifests a willingness to accept sucii evidences of good feeling from a casual acquaintance. AVocs of Velvet "Wen rem. New York Evening Sun. It was at a formal luncheon at a restaurant the other afternoon, but one of the women in velvet (there were four of them altogether), before seating herself, beckoned to a waiter. "Something over the seat of this chair, if you please," she said, in a low tone, but not a bit as though she were ashamed of what she had to say; "a cushion, napkin I don't care what, so long as the cane seat is covered. Otherwise my frocks will be ruined." The waiter brought a napkin, and upon its being spread upon the caning the woman took her seat. "I know it seems queer to ask for such a thing," said the woman with perfect aplomb, adrcssing the tableful, "but if you'd had as many velvet frocks ruined by cane-seat chairs as I have you'd do U. too." with a special glance at the other three women in velvet. "Why, once 1 wore a brand new velvet evening frock to a dinner in a private house and sat for

MIDWINTER nearly four hours upon a cane-seat chair, to find, when I got home, that my skirt was ruined; there was nothing for it but to get a new skirt. Since then I've been more careful. Velvet is all too easily crushed under the most luxurious conditions; a cane-seat chair stamps it irrevocably. I must say I hate to display such caution in a private house. In a way, you see. It reflects upon the house and its appointments. Only the othr day 1 wore this identical frock to a breakfast In a private house and there, when we were ushered into the dining room, I was expected to seat myself upon a cane-seat chair. The butler lookeel as if I had insulted him personally when I bade him cover the seat. Put. really, it is the emly solution to the problem, 'How to Wear Velvet and Look Decent.' " And as the woman was very rich and able to provide herself with a new velvet costume for every luncheon she attended if she so wished, her economic theories were listened to with the greatest respect, and before she had finished expounding them the other three women In velvet hael in their turn beckoned waiters and bail something placed over the caning of their chairs. Ilesnlt of Perseverance. Philadelphia Inejuirer. A woman who writes says she dates success with her pen from a New Year's resolution, made years ago, when she resol veel to. do away with moods. "I was highstrung and sensitive." she says, "and always waiting for a mood in which to do AFTERNOON AND things. Of course, the things were never done. "The mood would come, but never at the right time or place. When I was in a mood to write it always found me in bed, and when I felt like playing 1 should have been at work. I had what I call 'inspirations.' They kept me up all night scribbling and scrawling and fuming and fretting. "I did achieve stories during those fevered nights, but I was so exhausted, physically and mentally, when I had finished my work that I could do nothing more for a week. As I had to earn my living I determined to abolish inspirations and moods as a preparation for steady work. It wasn't easy. I assure you. "I stuck to my desk and wrote, and I kpt myself from tearing up things in a frenzy my favorite emotional outlet and I even published things. It seemed to me the dullest stuff ever written, as it bore the earmarks of uninspired Industry, of dull, dogged plodding. But people liked it quite as well as the inspired sonnets and essays I had written before. "It wa a blow to my vanity which I haven't recovered from to this day. Hut it taught me a lesson, that, after all. our New Year resolutions mav not ho ntiroh. I fruitless."

T

ILLUS

FASHIONS

ASHIONS in street attire are increasing in variety, and the newer type arc less severe than the established ones are. Skirts that Just touch or that arc a little off the ground aremadeand trimmed as a reception gown would be. They are of rough cloth?, velveteens and corduroys, and have either blouse Jacket or fancy coat of some variety. A few show the three-quarter coat stylo. The skirts ar ideated, tucked and -fm,. - - - trimmed, made with several gores or with attached flounce, with lines of braid or straps on every scam, or chow narrowbands of velvet and rows of stitching. The blouse coat, double-breasted and made so it can be worn open to show elaborate rovers, braided, embroidered or faced with fur is plentiful and stylish. Bodices with STREET ATTIRE. jacket fronts and postilion backs trimmed with heavy lace, folds of satin, brocaded waistcoat and fur are worn with all lengths of skirts. Velvet, satin and cloth are the raw materials. Sleeves are larger than they were, full below the elbow and include fancy undersleeves. Panne velvet is used for cuffs, trimmings and full fronts on coats in many colorings, some to harmonize, some to contrast. With velvet, fancy braid of all descriptions is put with a thread of gold, silver or tinsel, and with colored stones as well, but there is nothing like last season's display of gold, silver and jeweled braid. It now would be considered garish. As to furs, their use in garments, accessories and trimmings, seems almost excessive. It certainly would be considered so were not furs so expensive. This year's cheap furs are cheaper than for several years, many of them practically worthless. So the really good ones are as stylish as ever, and safe from being overdone until their prices come down. All winter indorsement has not been lacking for conspicuous street rigs, but now these striking suits seem far more numerous than they were in fall. Red suits have taken on a new assertiveness either i:i the shade, the weave or in the trimmings. The mm EVENING DRESS-UPS. gown sketched in the first picture, for instance, would be considered loud, were it not so stylish. It was deep red corduroy, trimmed with white cloth, gilt braid and handsome buttons. Even newer than the attempts to stun observers with reds is the employment of medium and large plaids. These usually are zibeline or camel's hair, and gowns of these fabrics run much to double and triple skirts, to the bias Spanish flounce and to Russian blouse and eton jackets. A typical gown appears in tiie next illustration. This was zibeline in red, green, black and yellow, with black velvet for trimming and piping. These plaids, as well as plaid silks are being used a good deal, too, for the shirt waists of tailor suits. Black velvet was the material of the next pictured dress. Persian passementerie was its trimming. The mating is a frequent and hanelsome one. Fur trimmings appear not only on indoor dresses, but arc put on sheer fabrics and laces. Narrow fur band are much used to

TSATED Ml

outline the design of lace. Bottom, flounces and bodices of gown aro trimm with it, and many handsome evening wr.i- ; are lined with some ?oft white fur, . r trimmed with it. Dark fur on white or cream grounds Is a sv.-aKgcr ar: 1 v, : y striking combination. In millinery ap;.-,ir such für as ermine, caratule, broadwi:, artrakhan and other skins in white, rr toques arc relieved by trimming of flowers. A pretty mink hat showed a facing of yellow and white chrysanthemums. T)ah'.: and camelias are put on many of tho fur hats. Cabochons of velvet, plain, h.ir.-l-painted or spangled, panne velvet and decorated leather are new millinery ormiments. They are used as centers of vdvit choux and rosettes. Long and three-quarter coats still hoM. and semi-fitting ones aro the more p pi'' ir. Loose fitting coats, with deep care and draped fronts, usually fur-trimmed, aie worn now and then. Cloth and velvet are the materials, although a few arc seen ef heavy bfack satin, trimme-d with fur or fancy passementerie. Sketched here is a tan melton coat trimmed with Russian table. Short loose-coats are seen now ar.d then, but are neither generally worn nor liked by many. Black and white continue to be a much favored combination for afternoon and evening. For tho latter, mousseline de soi.j makes an excellent foundation. An illustrative model was white mousseline with black cluny lace appliqued in square medallions. These were outlined and slightly sprinkled with silver sequins. For afternoon, white broadcloth, corduroy and. panne velvet, with black lace or vch t, makes very handsome costumes. A white cloth gown finished with stitched bands of black cloth is yhown at the left in the next picture, iilack xdoth and velvet gowns elaborately trimmed with white lace nr.-l silver sequins are very dressy. The n. pictured dress was black cloth trimm J with black velvet and black and white l.i-. . Lace dresses have been restored to fa - r, and in black and aro especially :tyi.-h. Shown here is a black net over white .-ill;, with bright green satin ribbon, given ;- vet and cream lace ruching for tritnini::-. Besides dresses entirely composed of !,: and put over satin, tilk or chiffon four-rations, there are all manner of combinations of laco and embroidery, while a-y flounce or piece of lace may be utiliz l with good effect on evening dresses of ;-at-in or brocade. Black and white net ,u 1 lace are mated. A black net sprinkled with white lace leaves and finished at the foot with a deep laco flounce ricked out wita challie, is one example. Black velvet lf ;iv and gold sequins trimmed another whit lace. White lace and crepe dc chine gov, i s beautifully appliqued with tinted clui.y lace flowers are strikingly handsome. Those of white lace appliqued with gr en velvet leaves and chiffon roses aro also very pretty. White lining is used with black silk, a line of lace at the top of the shaped flounce showing the white glaco silk glistening through its meshes. An ordinary black silk gown becomes transformed when abundantly trimmed with lines of black lace. Sometimes medallions of whit lace touched with sequins are appliqued on black lace. In any color scheme, the lace arrar-e-ments of dress-ups are complicated nr.l showy. Delicate, Inconspicuous, traceii.s are of little value. The scheme must be such that the trimming will impress either by its amount and richness, or by thi color contrast It affords. The lower two gowns of this picture show stylish la e trimmings of a kind that abounds with expensive dressers. The right-hand lace w. cream Irish crochet, was on pink silk cr j.) de chine and was an unusual arrangement for a princess gown. The princess cut. by the way, is much in favor for long trained gowns. Beneath Is worn a taffeta pettic it that has an arrangement of flounces at t!. back so as to be a support for the train. The foundation skirt is kept in place by two elastic drawing strings run in the clings. There is a revival of old-fa?-hi-.: i damask or brocade for these everir.rr gowns. Of all transparent fabrics, silk mull Is not only stylish for evening gowns, but ! more durable than many of the perih..l ' stuffs of which the market is full. Tl.weaves are beautiful when trimmed with different colored ribbons. atin ribbon i a very pretty finish when combined :h flowers. Shoulder straps form a sp i d feature, and are made of ribbons, feather?, flowers and sometimes bands of Or: r.t.il embroidery. Women fond of heavy evening silk- luv choice of many pretty floral designs a;d dainty stripes of all-over patterns in v. hi- h full blown blossoms arc strewn. (ri - . chine Is one of the loveliest fabrics f- r inexpensive gowns. This seasem its tones In delicate hues, pink and gray t tin: A precedence. Chrysanthemums fashioned from baby ribbon make an artistic trimming for -ving gowns in delicate shades of silk. V!vet flowers arc used for trimming h .:'- some street costumes, and combined r.iih Jeweled ornaments, arc taking th place ' aigrettes for millinery. Pineapple albatross a new weavo that suggests a combination of the ordinary albatross and crepon, with a silky, sMmmery surface. It is particularly effektiv for house gowns and dressy septrat waists. Storm veils have made their :?- pearance. They are in reality two r '. one the regulation complexion typ " other heavy chiffon. The latur is drar-i over the top of the hat when ne-L rr-jjir- 1 to protect the face. Many fancy m-- i and chiffon veilings show the Angora t, which is white and fluffy. Heavy stockings arc shown for wear with low shoes, and explain the unusual mm ! " of low shoes seen these wintry day. T' are of cashmere and come in color c-i hinations, blue and white, pink n;i-' w : '. anl similar delicate tints. Plain Hark ard solid color silk with clocks are ab wem. the silk in heavy weave suitable f"i' 'i weather. New York, Jan. 3. To Cure n. Child of Cronp. Ladies' Home Journal. Wring flannel cloths out of hot wit" and apply them to the throat, rhar-!'-them frequently. Make a tent over th ;: by means of sheets ovf-r ii scrn or i:"'--brella: then place si srnrril teakettle over a'i alcohol lamp near th? crib and let th" eh: 1 Inhah the moist vapor whi h mn.v be i - nucie.i insn'.e the tent. iiv being tal.'i tr.at the child does not mti:1 dos rnn to tne hot steam to get burnt. If th

tack is severe you may po ten drops ef j syrup of ipecac cvry fin u minute ur.Ml f vomiting results. It would bet to kr--the patient Indoors for a da or two aftr the attack.

vr Field for I.y loiter. American Analyst. The human body of averag wtlht contains three pounds thirteen turners of calcium. Calcium, at present market ixte, is vorth $T0 ;m ounce, so that tb Hinount of it contained in cr.e human bo-iv ras money valu of J1&.SO0. Few of our f. ll4 citizens realize that they are wertü much intrinsically.

I

I 1 K e e 5'

1 7

'4