Indianapolis Journal, Indianapolis, Marion County, 22 September 1889 — Page 9

SUNDAY UNA PAGES 9 10 12. PAKT WO. PRICE FIVE CENTS. PKTCE FIVE CENTS. INDIANAPOLIS, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 22, 1889 TWELVE PAGES.

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TRANGERS IN THE CITY

We would rather sco a man tarry for a time upon the fence of doubt than get down too suddenly, and buy on the wrong side. Do not accept the advertisements of other dealers as the truth, nor drop conclusion's anchor until you have cast the lead in our direction and seen how well wo bear out our claim of THE FINEST AND LARGEST STOCK OF CLOTHING AND THE LOWEST OF LOW PRICES.

All colors. All sizes. All now and stylish. Over 500 to chooso from. Now is tho time yon need a Fall Overcoat. Grand values offered in Fail Garments at $5, ?G and $7. Plenty finer in stock. Our $15 Overcoats would cost you 20 elsowhere. Boys' and Children's Fall and Winter Clothing now ready. Winter Overcoats on sale. In the Children's Department we show the greatest variety of suits. We give all colors in Cheviots, Cassimeres, Plain and Fancy Mixtures, Corkscrews, Worsteds, etc. The Children's Suits we show at 4 and $5 ire particularly choice and nobby. Boys' Long-pants Suits at $4 and upwards.

HATS JsJSiJD A pointer. We sell a nobby

ORIGINAL

'L STRAUSS, Proprietor.

GUAKD FALL OPENIXG CLOAK AMD DRESS GOODS MONDAY, SEPT. 23, 18S9. PLUSH CLOAKS, CLOTH NEWMARKETS, JACKETS, In Cloth, Jersey and Plush. SHAWLS AND BEADED 'WRAPS. Cloaks in Stock and made to order ton small Weekly or Monthly Payments. DRESS GOODS

IX Henriettas,

Wool and Silk Warps.

Serge. Tricots Cashmeres.

Sevastapol?. Silk, Flannels, Satin?, Ladies' Cloths. Flushes, Habit Cloths, etc. For Cash or on Easy Pavmcnts, at tho Store of Ik F. I. FDIJ1 lPLlISl CO. 108 North Pennsylvania St. GTOpen Saturday Evenings until 9 o'clock.

ROCKERS. , BAEGAMS THIS WEEK A lot of solid Cherry Rockers, handsomely carved, covered in Plush or Tapestry, at $7; former price was 12. Also, a lot of Arm Rockers, with upholstered seats, at $5, that were sold at $8. These arc special bargains. Don't fail to see them in the windows. "WTVC; L. ELDER, 43 and 45 South Meridian Street.

VISITORS TO THE STATE FAIR Are cordially invited to examine our immense stock of TOYS, NOTIONS AND FANCY GOODS, Representing tho products of tho leading manufacturers in tho world. To the Trade: Our samples of Holiday Goods aro now displayed in wholesale salesrooms.

CHARLES MAYER & CO QO & 31 West Washington Street.

KATUBAL GAS SUPPLIES Tulto. Cmtijifr. Pipe. Coriae. tiig lmn. Drilling Toou, BnunQoort. !kfa!leabi. Ovlvatvlzed anl Cat-iroa yittinjs. Complete line of House Fittings for Natural Gas. GrEORGOE GRIOBLAJRDS. TELEPHONE Stfl. C3 South Pennsylvania St., Indianapolis, Ind

1 FUNERAL TELEPHONE ZCA. !

KREGELO 1S2. North. Delnwnro Stroot.

OYSTER SEA.SON" 1889

TAGGART .BUTTER CRACKERS PARROTT & TAGGAKT, BAKERS.

Subscribe for the Weekly State

DOLLARS ARE

IN BUYING

CLOTHING OF ALL KIDS Of us during the present week. We offer vou what is positively the largest stock of Men's, Boys and Children's Clothing in the Staie to choose from.

OUR PRICES ARE THE LOWEST A comparison of them with others is all we ask. Pat our SUITS side by side with the boasted low-priced goods of other dealers, and you will find

OUR S8 SUITS BETTER

OUR Sio SUITS BETTER THAN OTHERS AT $15 OUR $15 SUITS BETTER THAN OTHERS AT $20 And so on. In every department we save you money. Not a garment in our vast stock but that is a bargain. See our prices on FALL OVERCOATS NO ONE DUPLICATES THEM.

CAPS FOR jVIEJST -A.ISTD BOYS. Cap for a Boy at 15 cents.

m, -la

yv

V

f , SARATOGA. DIRECTOR Journal-Ono Dollar a Year

1

1

m 11

-

Free Ambulance.

SAVED YOU

THAN OTHERS AT Sio

Iff ACT TFT

5 & 7 West Washington St.

DEPEW DELIGHTED. The Distinguished New Yorker's Visit to the Taris Exposition. New York World. In, an interview with a reporter Mr. Chauncey M. Depew said: "1 went over to Franco and went to the exposition. There is no use of our belittling it. Never in the history of industrial presentations of tlio productions of the manufactures and arts of the world has there been anything that begins to equal it. Eleven million dollars ban been expended on the buildings alone, and they nro built as if they were intented to remain forever. After I had taken a bird's-eyo view of thii exhibition, I got an American Hag, about one hundred feet square, and wrapped myself into it, and walked into that exhibition. 1 found that all tho dwellings that mankind has ever had, from the cave to the largest style of marble mansion, were represented fully and completely. I found that old Egypt had a street where she reproduced Cairo as it now is. I went through the exhibition of Spain, of Russia, of England, of Italy, of almost every country, and I was amazed at the marvelous gorgeousness of all that was presented by these governments, and then clasping that flag about me I walked through the exhibit of the United States, and when I got to the other end I found I could put that Hag in my vest pocket. I said to myself, knowing that the United States could beat all these effete and wornout civilizations, 'by tho holy Moses,' or whatever other deity the patriotic American swears by under these humiliating circumstances, tho American people have got to iust rise in their might and create a world s fair in which the foundation shall be such an exhibit of manufactures, arts and sciences, as shall astonish the world, and around it shall be gathered as tributes all the exhibits of the world. If we are to hold our own in the markets of the globe after this exhibit in Paris, which has been visited by all the commercial reople of the world, it is an absolute necessity for tho United States to redeem itself from the monstrous perversion. The exhibits which are there are all right as far as they go, but it is like sending a peacock to represent a Holstein. "The peacock itself is all right, but it does not represent America. I had tho pleasure over there of being entertained by a delegation of American workingmen. A remarkable thing about their journey was this: Here were fifty real live workingmen. No shams, no mouthers. They represented forty-four different trades. They were excellent representatives of the mechanics of tho United States. At no time iu the history of the world for 2.(XX) rears past, would a tieiegaiion 01 mat Kina nave uen received. Before the United States were born, at any time prior to the Declaration of Indenendenceor the inauguration of George Washington such a delegation would havo been arrested any where, but the Uuited States being a country without classes, without nobility, and with only a respect for men who have a worthy mission to perform, this delegation was received with all the honors, with the freedom of cities with public banquets. As the only real exhibits that the United States had they invited nm to a diuner in the Eiffel lower. It was an elaborate affair. There were rish, two entrees, two roasts, sorbet, pastry, ices, two kinds of wine and no end of champagne, and I said to the French representatives present: That is the way tho workingmeu in America always live.' Whilo wo have never had any immigration from France, it will be very large during tho coining years. "I met the Prince of Wales. He is always cordial to America, always most complimentary and most warm in his expression toward the American people and toward the American Kepublic, always saying something to show tnathe wants aud believes that there will be no trouble between these two great countries, and as far as he has got anything to say, there never cau bo, and always recalling with the greatest pleasure his visit here when a young man.'' This Is Cruel. Washington Post. Brother Depew is a bright, frisky person, who talks a great deal and always to his own gratification. As a soda-water orator who gives more rizz to a glass than any other speaker in the country, ho is not only first, but first, last and all the time. Mr. Depew is the George Francis Tram of politics, and in the soon after a while, when people grow tired of hearing him. he will go out, sit in the park and talk to the birds. Refer It to the "nuestlon Clubs," Atijrusta (Qa.) Chronicle. We would like to "know from our freetrade contemporaries how it is that bix cotton-nulls should havo to close down in Kugland under tho so-called blessing of free trade? Surely, in view of this statement, protectioL in America does protect

FEONTIER I0VE HISTORIES

Some of the TrialsThat Are Encountered by tho YoungBridesof theBarracks, Army Ambulances as Eridal Carriages Wh er the Face of Woman Is Man's Greatest BlessiE Lives That Prove Pure Devotion. Copyright, i8tt.l Tho greater portion of tho women who follow those who "led the way" to the far West were the wives of farmers or workingmen, accustomed to some sort of labor at home, or at least domestic women, who were used to bake, brew, and stitch for the household; but there were other sorts of pilgrims whose pretty feet were imprinted in that virgin soil, who knew little of the utilitarian sido of our existence, These 'lilies of the field" were the wives of our officers. A military man is generally conceded to be the most engaging of beings. His personal appearance takes him a long distance on the road to favor, for he is trained to erectness, to a fine carriage of the head; his mu&cular development follows on the habits of his active life; his uniform transforms one who might he passed by in a crowd into a cynosure for all eyes. Add to physique, carriage, and clothes the manner which a man in so social a life as the army acquires, and it is seldom that he comes knocking at the barely halfclosed door of a susceptible heart that is not flung wide to welcome him. If our American can bo made to admit that there is an aristocracy in the United States, tho army belongs to it. It is one profession where money is not necessary. An officer dares to be poor, because a fortune cannot improve his social position; it is independent of filthy lucre. The military man, therefore, poor as he is, is welcomed with cordiality in all the higher walks of life. Whilo among civilians on duty, or when on leave of absence, he is thrown among the fairest women of tho land, and he, of course, proceeds to fall in love. Tho father who smiles on him would frown on a clerk with the-same salary. Tho paternal mind is at rest about the daughter's social standing. Compunctions do assail the officer when the object of his adoration is the center of a devoted family, living in idleness and luxury. He pictures her enduring hardships, ana shuts his heart against temptations. How often I have heard them say, How could I have the effrontery to ask a girl to endure our life?" and yet in the end they all do. When he tells a girl that he loves her, he has the grace to mention that there are trials. Tho girl usually tells him, in a wise little way, no life is without its trials, and in accepting him makes him sure an existence with him. no matter how hard, is preferable to a lifetime of luxury without him. The prize he gains is a pretty, accomplished, agreeable girl who knows literally nothing of the practical side of existence; who very feoon after her initiation to the plains would give all her knowledge of the piano in exchange for the secret of breadmaking: she would barter her skill with the brush and pencil for the gift of an expert needle, or the power to cut and model the simplest garment. Nevertheless, with her charming head, empty of all that portains to the prosaic side of life and its grind, she is still a prize. The daintier and more butterfly her previous existence the quicker her transformation into a practical housewife. 1 have hardly known it to fail that the more luxurious her former existence the less mention of it and the fewer complaints an army woman makes. These tine, fnstidious creatun courted in a conservatory and won in a ball-room, can exhibit more adaptability and show more endurance than any women I ever knew. Our women, as a nation, are becoming more renowned for adaptability than all the women the world over; and if a young girl can come from school and fill the highest scat in the land without an error, or if our beautiful belles can enter the nobility as wives, and shino with such eff ulgence at the most formal and austere court in the world, why should we not claim that there is no situation in 11 fo that an American woman cannot grace? But the army woman is the most tried, and the manner in which she meets her Kudden transition from a princely life to one of genteel pauperism places her at tho head of those who lit thein&elves into a new existence, and who fill it with a charm all their own. Sue cannot only endure what the rough pioneer woman does, but after she conquers the kitchen, tho needle and the scissors, and tho mystery of taking caro of children, she can still charm a weary ear by her music, or adorn her rude habitation with tho work of her brush. What contrast can be greater than the transition from tho modern wedding, with its lavish expenditure, the music, liowers, gifts, splendid pomp of the service, the train of exquisitely attired brides-maids. the crush of jeweled and richly-dressed friends, to an army ambulance, following in the dusty trail of a long line of slowmoving wagons, carrying supplies to a distant Territory! And yet this is the history of so many brave women that I can hardly glance down the page of an army register and lind one name exempt. Since the lines of the Pacific roads are finished, overland travel has, of course, greatly diminished, but there are still isolated posts where the bride of a military man will, in all probability, make her homo at one time or another. It may not bo generally known that it is the policy of tho government to give each regiment five years' tour of dnt in a department. Circumstances chauge it to two years, and, oven alter a year in one Territory, unexpected orders transfer troops to the Gulf ot Mexico or California, perhaps. A young arm' woman holoing up her rosytipped fingers to tell off the etttiousin which she has lived, finds, even when she is but a new campaigner, that her fingers give out in keeping tally. Governments forget that there are such blessings as domestic life among those who serve. While a woman looks about her plain quarters in Texas, and congratulates herself that her inventions and devices have turned . the barrack into a "homey" spot, and reasons to herself, "Oh, if it is so dreadfully warm, still this is better than moving;" at that very moment perhaps the orderly crosses the parade-ground with an order for her husband to prepare to take np his march for some- post hundreds of miles in the north. Possibly but a few hours are given, and in tho hurry of preparation the prcttj devices for beautiiying the home are torn from the walls or hurriedly jumbled into crowded packingcases; the choice garments crushed into trunks; the china which, in her inexperience, the young wife has brought from home, instead of earthenware, is put into barrels by clumsv hands. Officers are seldom afraid of their dienitv being injured by doing any sort of manual labor, especially if by so doing they can make life easier for their wives. But when orders come to move, their whole attention must be given to the preparation of tho men and horses for the journey, and to the superintending of the packing of the company papers, records and property. Consequently, the wife is given soldiers at such a time, whose hearts are most willing, but whose awkward hands are apt to make havoc with the household lares and penates. At dawn next day the ambulance in which she is to journey is brought to the door and almost filled with the last-forgotten trans, guns, books, ammunition, baskets and boxes. In the first place, the ambulance in which the bride is going to travel for hundreds of miles is not a luxuriant equipage. The government builds them for the sick, but. happily, there are few ill people on the frontier, and they are therefore often loaned to the officers by the quartermaster to transport their families. The wagon is long enough to admit of two seats on the side being joined in the middle and constructed into a bed over six feet long, on which the wounded or nick can lie. Under these seats at tho ends are round holes, in which the kegs of water are carried. Tho

entrance is at the rear and the steps are low, so one can get in and nut readily. The

driver on the front seat can be cut oil oy a curtain from those inside. In time officers af e enabled to "save up" money enough to buy a condemned ambulance, the running gear of which needs little repairing. I he seats are then arranged across and re covered, as well as the top of the wagon, the steps changed to the side, and tho con veyance is not only made very comfortable, but there is hardly a trace of the gloomy old hospital wagon of the government. An officer just home from a wedding festivity, and having devised little domestic outfit, is not usually prepared to purchase and make over a vehicle of any kind, nor can he fit his wife out with a horse and equip ments, with which, later in their history, she varies many a weary march. ino savmg-up process is slow work, with all the exDenses entailed bv the freouent changes ot station, so that a newly-married woman is ant to journey at nrss in an ambulance. At dawn tho troops move out and the wagons are pulled into lice and begin their monotonous march of four miles an hour, sometimes varied by a long s:op at the crossing of a stream, where a bridge is made or a causeway laid of logs. Ko matter how smooth the road, the traps inside the ambulance roll around, and. with the persistent obstinacy of inanimate thiugs, which makes them seem human in their perversity, they plunge toward the open door to turn hie out. The traveler spends the day slipping from the leather seat,;,and recovering herself. The seat is narrow, hard, and has no back, except the slender wooden strips of the frame over which the cover is stretched. It is dusty, and there is a tantalizing dry heat, while the sun beats down remorselessly on the black water-proof cover. The luncheon, hastily prepared, is not improved by travel, the water in the canteen is warm. And yet, at the end of twenty-five miles of this irksome journey, I have seen the sweetest face, pale, perhaps, but not frowning, look out of the entrance of the wagon and greet her husband without a murmur. She speaks always of tho loneliness; that sort of murmuring no man minds, since he knows it is for him the sentiment is called forth. Most of them say something like this: "If a girl marries a man and comes out here, she rather expects to see something of her husband, don't you think!" and then he lowers his voico and makes some reply that the driver tries in vain to hear; for a soldier, from the highest to the lowest, has a world of romance in his nature. The promises of a few weeks or months before of a girl in tulle and lace, and orange liowers, with all the glamour of first love, all the allurements of luxurious surroundings, were not idle words. With such chances before her to prove her devotion, she enters into her life joyous at the very thought that no one can doubt that she married but for one reason. Her journey over tho plains is but the repetition of the experiences of tho wife of the pioneer; there were no royal roads over those sun-baked prairies. The wind-storms shrieked around the ambulance, rocking it in its violence, or tore the canvas of the tent in its fierceness with just the same savags fury that it did the lumber-wagon of the frontiersman. The 6un scorched and the rain soaked the military pioneer just as it did the brave man who sought a new home. There was this to be said for the pioneer: when he finally located he need not move again, unless from some untoward circumstances. With an officer the marching was "from sun to sun." and, like a woman's work, it "was never done." Some may suggest that the military wife had not the ever-present fear of Indians in her journey in gs that the wifo of the pioneer had. But she had, though. We have, even now, with peace brooding over tho land, a very small army. A few years since there was an immense frontier to protect, and ofteu our brave little army was divided np so that small knots of men had to be marched from one post to another through the very worst of the Indian country. The garrisons, even, were too small for safety, and behind an inteeuro log stockade our men have heard the orgies, the threats, the insults of the foe. There was never any let-up to a woman's fears after she left the railroad and civilization. In one respect the army wife had the advantage of the pioneer woman A soldier was allowed each officer as servant, and they cooked, so that the'military woman who could eat what they cooked did not have to put her eyes out with the smoke of a camp tire, or struggle with wet wood and a hurricane of wind to prepare the daily meal. The journey overland from Fort Leavenworth, Kan., which was the great outfitting place, to Santa Fe, N. M., took six weeks, and this was the bridal tour of many an army bride. I saw bo many then, and have talked with them since about that eventful time, and no woman of them all but declared that their wedding journey was the best auy ono ever had. In our life there was no gradual leading up to anything. It was a succession ox plunges the wholo life through. For instance, one day a pretty, delicate brido plighted her vows under exotics aud in the midst of aiHucnce. In three short days, poraibly less, 6he was sitting in an ambulance trailing slowly over the Western divides. It was not the enthusiasm of youth and fervor of early love that made even that weary way seem to have the verdure and bloom of a garden, for years afterward I met these girls one after another, developed into matrons and mothers, and perhaps in all that time never knowing what people in the States term comfort, but still they had no murmuring word. Army women have faults, but complaining of their life is not among them. At the eud of these journeys of weeks. after experiencing every thing in the way of what the elements can do, encountering prairie fire, making camps without fresh water, eating salt meat and coarse food, subjected to fright from Indians, and, perhaps, being even in the midst of a skirmish with the foe, into what sort of a habitation do you think she was introduced! Long before the post was reached the field-glass revealed a group of low huts, isolated and dreary. The color of the plains a dull, rusty nue. it was hard to realize that human beings were herded there. On nearer and nearer approach, there was no mistaking that it was a garrison of Uucle Sam's followers, stationed way out in the plains boside a muddy stream. The low dark quarters were built of adobe, the sun-baked blocks of clay that the Mexicans use. The earth lloor. small windows, and narrow door all combined to add to the gloom. Not a tree was in sight that could cast a shade. The army woman set gloom at defiance. She went to work resolutely to try to make auother home. She watched eagerly when the boxes and bales which contained her few treasures were unpacked, and winked very fast to keep the tears back when almost everything was found to bo nicked, bent, broken, or crushed out of shape. I havo seen them take the articles one by ono and arrange them in the quarters, get some simple curtains to the Mindless windows, and so settle themselves in a few hours that the husband, coming from his duty at ui gut. entered a home. There was one post that we all dreaded, and yet after it was really inevitable, and the order had been issued to go there, I heard little more. Like tho last described, it lay in the midst of a desert of dreariness. No trees or shrubs, only tho bristliug cacti and the neutral-tinted sage bush could be eeen on all sides. The roofs of the dwellingswere even lower tuan tue tirst described, for the quarters were not even adobe; they were dug-outs, and delicately reared women went under ground, like the prairie-dog, for their homes. Onr officers, poing to this forlorn post on duty, came back with only accounts of the health, contentment and hospitality ot tho people who had been obliged to burrow in the grouud for shelter. In traveling now over the routo to tho Rocky mountains, I sometimes hear the wearjf voice of some complaining woman exclaiming: "When will these hideous plains cease 1 and looking at her surround ings the comfort and ease of a Pullman car, the books, fruit, ice-water, the dining car, above all, all the water in a land of water famines that she needs for her toilet I cannot help contrasting her journey with that of her brave predecessors, whoho buoyant faces gazed westward, and never turned back a regretful look. ; Elizabeth Bacon Custeb. Surprising? Progress. Chicago Ms.lL Four jurors have heen secured in the Cronin case. Four jurors in two weeks and a half meaus a complete jury insoven weeks and a half. And yet some people are inclined to groan at the law's delay.

CEAT ABOUT KEW FASMOXS

Selecting Something That Will Meet tho Eeqnircments of Artistic Taste. Mary Anderson's Plain Gowns and Charming Neck Wear Mrs. Bernard Beere's Xetr Gowns A Philadelphia Parlor. CorresposAence of tho ImlUnapoli Joorn&L New York, Sept. 20. You all have the fashions before you in papers and magazines. Suppose, instead of rehearsing ail the hackneyed items, we go over them to criticise and select what will suit a really artistio taste. That includes convenience, sound wear and comfort, as well as becoming effects. It does not include the protended antique, studied by ambitions damsels, for Greek and medieval dresses are as inartistic for the society of to-day as a freedom cap and gown of tho star-spangled banner. Fitness for its time and purpose is the keynote of tasteany where. Take the fashion plates in the popular sheets ana the artist quickly discriminates the points which recommend the present style. Tho waists are well proportioned, sleeves capable of being made convenient, the skirts full enough for becoming drapery and clear the ground. True, dress-makers cut skirts to brush the street, but there is a general protest on the part of wearers, which wins the day. When the trailing skirt last made its advent, twenty years ago, -women meekly swept a quarter yard of demi-train over the pavement for vulgar men to step on aud poke their canes through, without trying to evade the fashion. But now fine dressmakers acknowledge the sweeping skirts are in style, yet advise against them, and fine women follow their advice. The hands on the dial have moved forward. Nobody pretends to wear a bustle now in good society. Two springs in the petticoat, and full back breadth in the dress give elegant relief to the figure, but even tho little silk pad is discarded by modish dressers, though second rate women cling to the relic of the big, bouftant bustle. Stiff underskirts keep the dress from clinging about the limbs, and the flounced hair cloth, or the cheap manilla skirting, which retains its wiry quality without starch after washing, give that bouyant air to draperies which big tournures never have. The coat-shaped polonaise in velvet or matelasse over a skirt of soft wool is the stylish street dress for autumn, varied by the much-braided jacket for shopping or running about, and the Cossack capes, or coachman's capes in three to rive overlapping folds, for those who can wear them. The artistio woman will strike those capes from use at once, as they are the most trying thing in the fashion. As commonly worn, of contrasting color to the dress, they trive a parti-colored effect and cut tip tho figuro intolerably. Of the same color as the coat they might be admitted for warmth, but only for slender, line figures. A well-drawn, clean-lined pair of shoulders in a cape, looks absolutely clumsy. The only capo that suits general style is the military, cut precisely like that on a soldier's overcoat. This is useful as an additional protection and lends a grace to the close coat, especially with that silk lining to snit the cloth. The fabrics of the season are many, but 6trict style chooses for coats among velvet, corduroy, camels hair cloth, serge and smooth-faced cloth, light, thick and pliant. A lady who dresses well, but with careful outlay, does well to choose camel's hair cloth in dark green or prune shades, chestnut orEittel red, the new terra-cotta prune or nut-brown being most stylish. Tho coat has short directoire front, with plaits in the back, covering the skirt. Or it is a polo naise, simpl3r tit ting, enveloping tho entire hgure, and might be ns well worn without any dress for all that is seen of tho latter. An economical woman will havo a handsome coat of this stylo and wear out her old dresses under it for the street, I repeat the caution of careful womennever to wear the waist of a good dress with a cloak, which rubs and defaces tho bodice, but keep a plain wool jersey to wear under wraps. Ihe coat is made handsome, with velvet collar and trimmings, and a long front of velvet is a sensible addition, laid over the cloth, which it Keeps from wearing. A velvet point covering the back to the waist also gives warmth, but tho velvet breadth un der the coat skirts open in the back is out of taste. 1 he open skirt looks and is chillv in windy autumn, and appears as if a lady had made a mistake in dressing, while a rich fabric is sure to be crushed in sitting and show it. Country dress-makers show very poor taste in making cloth coats open back and front over wool goods of contrasting color, and the effect it not much better in moire aud velvet. Full velvet sleeves on a cloth coat are inartistio unless worn with a velvet skirt, as a sleeveless cloth overdress upon a velvet Kown. 1 hey are in fashion, it is true, voung woman, but you don t want to wear them, as they make the cloth look poor benide them, and you can spend your money to better advantage. It is well enough if you can afi rd to dress as Airs, liernard lieere does, who is. or whose dress-maker is, the most admirable designer on the English 6taco. Her costume will be a close overdress of India camel's hair, in indistinct chevron and shawl weav ing, of one color, or two shades almost alike, sleeveless and open over full velvet robe, with rich metallic embroid ered girdle, and border at the throat and hem. Hhe looks a picture in it and sumptu ous enough for a countess, while a J'ew York cirl will spend enough on her com monplace street dress to have such a gown twice over. What will she spend itinr W by. in the coarse braiding and applied triminiutfs which distigure. every other dress one sees, trimmings only fit for iiphoUtery. not for women's figures that do not add one idea of refinement or pleasure to a dress. Passementerie to be worth wearing, costs like lace, real lace, mind, and these detestable woolen Rim pa and soutaches have the stamp of Berlin and machine woi k all over. Different as day from dusk are the narrow borders and ribbons embroidered in small Arabic lettering of gold or strong color, to which all the rich confused shades of the grounding converge. . This is the finest of machine work when machine at all. and meant for the harmonious bordering of mellow-hued velvets and camel's hair, more silken and supple than velvet. If one can't afford camel's hair. Eastern embroideries aud velvet under-dresfees. a suit of chestnut corduroy is as durable aiid chic as anything in the way of inexpensive dress. Just as a gentleman who can't atlord frock coats and dress coats keeps to gray chevoit, a lady compelled to count cost chooses between serge and corduroy. A studied plainness lends style; the skirt m box-pleats, a round waist with slashed tabs celow the belt, as seen in old pictures, an easy coat sleeve, longer tliHti usual, a lit like a riding habit, a jacket of the plainest, finely finished with red nasturtium or bottle-green silk liuings showinir at wai.t. collar and tabs, the jacket lined with silk, has more real style than showier dresses, and bing practicall indestructible, it is a gown for years. It rtands any weather, auy amount of cleaning, and the sleeves don't wear out in a season at the drawingboard or desk. The bonnet or hat may bo of corduroy, or better, straw or felt th same color, trimmed with ribbon loops and quill feathers, a facing of velvet under the brim. In serge-like materials, the India twill, smoother than camel's-hair, wears like tho old Thibet in good qualities. Make it with plain skirt, trimmed bv rows of ribbon velvet above tho hem, or rnn tho frout widths in lengthwise "accordion tucks' which look like the accordion pleating, but wear so much better. A coat polonaise, faced with silk, havintr Di rectoire front, is the appropriate tliiug with the skirt, and where judicious cost i.i an object, dispense with trimmings, havo all pleats pressed carefully and tacked to linings, to keep in place; ue handsome buttons and silg liuings, desirable for warmth as well as elegance, aud nut th money into pretty plastrons, cravats and

kerchiefs to wear ith the drew. Mary Anderson wears very V?'ltg?' ever expensive, for tho atntt or carnage, but has charming cravats ond lingerie for the throat, stylish gloves and bat. of overloaded trimming, which always

looks third-rate on an out-uoor ks imru-raieuu nu ; t -.i L'o freshen passe silk, talc Wa out jith ,er. press with hot , j .Vla 2 skirt iiinT Ahnr the si k. make a plain skirt T etl half-inch velvets are very well nsd jn tnis way. with the effect of . graduated n "tripes. To keep silks from "cutting out . and g earing on the hips, interlino with the thinnest the arms of the dress material aouoic. prevent wearing ont and to give ease in mending. There arv but two shapes of bonnets worth considering, the toque lor piquante. or regular features, and the PKe, with a broad fiat brim in front, rounding to the crown alone behind, for passee or prominent faces. Straw will be worn lata this year, silk, mixed with velvets, and tine jet aigrettes forming a distinguished trimniine. In buying leathers. Ret tn French ostrich plumes, which keep in curl much longer than the ordinary ones, ana are said to resist even seaside damp. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. . R. 8. W. Is tLere anv remedy for prematuregreyne8 and bald net! 1 reler to young n-ca tveutv five to thirty-five, of good Mrtn. ound eonoUtntioDK. correct habits. Myelf and Kianr of roy friends arc Iat becoming prev-La'.red r.mi palninsr high foreheads. What Is the rrobab!o cntme: hertdlty, tichthat or brain work! l or in) ell. I Lae lived out of doors, never was tick, elilom near atlrht bat and live Plainly" and correctly, aad llaaliy g rej n.cs is not hereditary. One of tho last opinions on baldness ia that it is sympathetic with dyspepsia or visceral inllammation, added to the intenso mental strain of bnsiness. The loss of Chosphates from bolted Hour also robs th rain of the supply needed for its constant labor, and the physical demands cf tho system. Close sleeping-rooms injure the hair, as well as the brain it covers. 'cry few young men have really correct habits of eating, or sleep enough to recruit tho nervous forces, f hey eat and sleep just enough to prevent them from feeling any failure of force, but an unconscious drain limits and lessens it. I should, like to know just how many hours by the clock that young man sleeps in a fortnight, and just what is his bill of faro forthattimef Astrictacconnnnightthrow ' light on the matter of correct habits without further advice. If young men will demand the strong bread aud cereals which keep up nerve and muscle, will not grudgo sleep, and wear hats only when indispensable, thev will find hair staying on their heads. The habit of wearing hats in omces. in hotel rotundas, whenever possible, injures the brain and hair more than any.ono is aware of. If men should return to antique usage, and lift the hat more frequently to ventilate the head, it would benefit more than their manners. A Constant Header As I am unable to go out to ascertain, you will confer a favor by informing me through your coIuuids what the rulintr wa?es of dome&tlcs are In your city, and how they compare with prices paid In othr towns. I denire to treat my girl a well an others, and. as it ladeft with tue to tlnd out what tho ruling prices arc, I am at eea till 1 see it in your columns. By all means let us hear from women in nil parts of tho country nbout this interesting question of wages. In Boston, pood, girls get from $3 to 4 a week, as plain cooks, and for general housework done in, the best manner, and I think New York, prices are the same for competent help. The rillraff ask this, but no instructed i housekeeper will clve it unless to good help. French Canadian girls in the suburbs of Boston work for $2.f0 a week. They know little of cookery, but are teachable, neat, and pleasaut to have about, At least so I have found. We must havo vital improvement in the matter of servants, or wa shall cease to have homes, or mothers. E. N. am the posseMor of a "rhiladflphia parlor" I'm ure you understand what that means a long narrow room with two windows on the street ide folding doors into the hsll one narrow French wlu low in the lower corner opening on to the side y.ird and a mantel set dt rectly in front of the hail and dividing th wali into two equal, unpromising halves. There aro no poMibilities to a Philadelphia parlor. Amongst my presents is a marble tSgu re considered very tine the subject a pylvan godde. hair wieathed with leave, and in her hand a bell-shaped instrument to the sound of which & pet fawn beside her moves. On its pedestal it stands about fire feet. Now against the rale gold paper of thewaU this looks completely lost. There is no nook, niche or alcove to let It In. Yet I wosild not banish It from that parlor. I thought, considering tte woodland characteristic! of the piece, to twine the pedestal tbicklywlth artificial ivy, bnt Low about s.-me-thiujr at the back which would throw tho whlto figure tnto relief I Can you euicest anything! I fail to 6eo why there are no possibilities' in a Philadelphia parlor, with corner cabinets and double-decked tables, corner shelves almost to thorciling, with Japanese railings, bamboo or be.nl curt ain screening oh three or four feet of the lower end. for a coserie, with long, narrow table, couch and chairs, a painted tapestry panel or two to vary the tame walls, or banner screens of nasturtium and red silk, wide and long, to eerve as backgrounds, simply hung from a roller on tho wall. Alergth of China silk, peach color, old rose, natnrtium. red or yellow, with tho same lencth of velvet in deep red, half a yard wide, joined to one side the silk, hung by a rich cord and tassels, or a ribbon, to an ornamental book, makes such a wall screen and relieves a dull room remarkably. Panel of open work screen olf corners aud break the lines of a room, used cither in bus peuded frames or as standing screens. It is hoped tho boys with good fret-eaws will take to work again and give ns these openwork screens in Japanese and Arabian patterns at something les than the f I a Bfjuaro foot asked by the trade. This is not saying whether the manufactured openwork is not worth the price, but only that most peoplo cannot aflord anything like $10 a mi tiara yard for hiirfaco decorations. In half-inch wood fret-aws might give come xrrcount of themselves, especially when the work is finished by hand with knife aud sandpaper. Instead of using imitation ivy for background to the statue, why not havo crow ing ftms grouped around the base, and a ground of real ivy, traiuel to a square trellis, which any florist will grow for you, to stand behind the figure without injuring the wall. Tins will be an cvcr-beautilul decoration. Or h.iug a retd curtain of single color behind the marble. Tho Japanese shops import these curLtiris cf lengths of reed or bamboo, or little paper cylinders, dyed and strung on cords close together, which make delicate backgrounds as well as portieres. 1 taw one in New York, of jade creen paper quills, slichtly striped with a half lino of white, which was far prettier than the barbaric parti-colored bead curtains. I anx delighted to answer questions about furnishing. I fehall have to quit writing for newspapers or writing private ansv ers to correspondents. Of thellO letters waiting notice, more than half desire private answer, audi as each one takes from one to three hours' study and writing, there is a lile'a work laid out, especially as the letters keep coming. To relieve the tuficring public from weekly considerations of black-heads and taraxacum questions, full directions and recipes will soon be published in cheap form. Many correspondents are referred to Kenrick Brothers. Brookline. M.., for information about Mr. Edward Atkinsou's Aladdin cooker and oven. As to other invention mentioned in these letters, I bhould think the advertising man of this panr wonld unggrst to manufacturers the advantage of making their goods known outside ot trade weeklies. SiunixY Dark. The Amuieuicnt Becoming Tame. CtBsaa City Journal. Another stage robbery occured in California the other day, but it was not a sensational affair, and was accorded littla apace in the newspapers. The robbers simply demanded the treasure box. rd got it without argument, and the sta driver is alive and sound as a dollar. T A SlUuudersUndin-. Nw York Sun. Fond Motherjto hereon, home fra college on a vacation) Charles, derr, taw did you find your bed last nirhtf Charles flushing farlously-! 1 thought you wero tdetn vrhcalcr- U

with front widths fitted to strips of ribbon velvet iu .Jillj-rent vridlb ...: .1 Twrt.inrh. inCU ana.

layer of wadding tacked to t lie """ for which black linen lawn at cents a yard is a good thing. ' Make the nde. P JJJ r v.u .?.w..M. , mid waist nntitr