Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 285, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 30 November 1920 — Slovak Grace in the Fall Modes [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Slovak Grace in the Fall Modes

Among the novelties that have-been launched tor the fall, observes a Paris fashion correspondent, are a number of dresses and coats that show the present embroideries of Csecho-Slo-vakia. This idea was first exploited by Jeanne Lanvin at her August openings in 1919, but at that time this maker was entirely alone In using distinctly Cxecho-Slovak patterns and colorihgs. Since then many other

dressmakers have taken up the Idea, and now the fashion is in full swing. This Is'an Interesting example of the way in which a fashion, if good, will live, no matter how extreme It may appear. It may not endure in Jts original form, perhaps because of its extremeness, but its offspring are met for many a day. So few worthy ideas are brought out that dressmakers are not willing to let a really good thing escape.

Influence Is Maintained.

We prophesied when this style first appeared that It would have a remarkable Influence on fashions for a long time to come. While of a marked type, it was not bizarre in any way. The delicate thread embroidery was charming Along with the black and white effects were lovely black embroideries on stone-colored cloths. This has developed into black or white embroideries on all tones of gray.

Lanvin developed her costumes of Ozecho-Slpvak inspiration in the form of a long coat or overdress with a tight underskirt. Some of the costumes even had the loose hanging trousers of the rustic goat herders. There were feV women who cared to accept such an extreme movement tn dress, so these were soon replaced by a short, tight skirt falling below a long tunic. The tunic did not allow more than a few Inches of the underskirt to show. A great deal still is made of skirts of this type. The peasant or chemise type of overdress girdled at a low waistline has passed through many evolutions. There is great variety in the embroideries from this new republic, as many different peasant peoples have been thus brought together. A dominant note is the black and white embroideries, which may be, according to the original Moravian dress from which they are taken, either black on white or white on black. We now see the Influence of the picturesque dress of these countries in both tailored suits and dresses. These ideas are carried out clearly and definitely, so that there is no mistaking the source fronj which they come. So distinctive are they that they would be completely spoiled if combined with any other, motif. This idea is emphaetaed in colorings as well as embroideries. Its influence appears in the use of bright red as a trimming on dark suits. Plentiful use Is made, too, of the white and black embroideries of the Moravian and the brilliant red, white and Hack geometrical patterns of the southern Slavic people. Craze for Combinations. A strong feature in the fashions of tile gj o^® 8 * “ mpn t <« erase for comhf ns HobS Of 1 thes reta her indlvSual impression.

new long sleeves, the high stock collar and the black embroidery on white, , Heavy white crepe de chine lb s favorite fabric for black embroideries. And what could be more effective than a simple chemise dress of this silk, with touches of black? On a model of white crepe de chine elaborately decorated In black, the embroidery serves to accentuate the side panels. These side panels are among the most popular new features In clothes. A charming effect is obtained by trimming the high collar with a band of sable. Of course, so much embroidery adds greatly to the expense of the dress, but the woman in the home, as well as the professional dressmaker, can see the possibilities in this model. A very simple white silk dress may be made most effective with just a touch of black embroidery and perhaps a sash of black ribbon or a bit of black fur. One of the loveliest frocks that Paris has sent us this season is developed In white crepe de chine and black velvet. It is made in this way: First a straight slip of-the white silk with bretelle top has a wide band of black velvet. placed around the top, passing under the arms. Over this Is worn a separate skirt of silk, made entirely of loop panels attached to a belt. Each panel Is edgdd with black velvet ribbon. Then there is a little overblouse fitted In at a low waistline. There are no sleeves and the overbodice Is cut low under the arms to reveal the black velvet banding. Hanging handkerchief points and cascading draperies continue popular. Skirts made with these offer an excellent opportunity for featuring contrasts of black and white.

Collar Adds Dainty Touch. Mme Jenny’s clothes this season have proven even more successful than ever with Americans. The models are most attractive and at the same time wearable. She shows straight box jackets, withr straight, short, narrow skirt, one-piece dresses with flowing panels starting from a low waistline, evening dresses having side trams and those having sashlike single strips of a contrasting color, also hung from one side. Many of her models show high collars. There is a particularly attractive blue serge, having a high collar with a narrow plaited jabot of sheer white organdie. This jabot is attached to the top of the collar, so that about three Inches of the organdie extends horizontally under the chin and the remainder cascades down the front of the suit This form of collar ornamentation is even used on velvet dresses. Another interesting high collar Is joined to the bodice In deep Van Dyke points all around the neck. ' ■ * '

Lovely little suits that are simple and wearable, as welt as very smart, are made with short box coats that

have bell-shaped sleeves and high collars. Fur banding is placed all around such jackets. Sometimes they are fastened only by a single fur button at the neck. While bell-shaped sleeves are used in many of these models, others have the regulation coat sleeve. Both velvet and cloth are used for suits of this type. lAPkPtit and lone coats Both Stilts, juckcus miu wug vmw m™. backs and short capes enBiww | t . Das a kb high fur collar across the I MIX — __ - it Gesireuv

Gray Jersey Dress Embroidered in Black.

Frock of Heavy White Crepe de Chine Embroidered in Black.