Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 276, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 18 November 1920 — Fur Mantle in Form of Cape [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Fur Mantle in Form of Cape

Judging by the fur wraps prepared Cur this winter, tht good, old-fash-ioned fur coat has passed into the discard. To be really smart, observes a Paris fashion correspondent, our fur mantle must be in the form of a cape or closely resemble a dress or. if a coat at all, decidedly of the wrappy type. The fitted sleeve Is seldom seen In the latter. When there is a sleeve It is cut as part of the garment, somewhat on the raglan style. Some of the very newest fur garments for 1920-21 are being madt in what is known in Paris as the robe manteau style; that Is, the coat is almost in the form of a dress. The leading furriers have taken this tip. as it were, from the hlg dressmakers of Paris, who are having remarkable success with these coat dresses. From fur to organdie is a far cry, but In fashion vagaries the whole gamut Is often sounded, and so the robe manteau Is found in organdie and in priceless fur. The last word in summei frocks, worn at the Trouville-Deau-ville races, was the robe manteau in organdie, and the first fur novelty wrap for winter is in the robe manteau style. A charming wrap of this character Is developed in moleskins as thin and fine as satin, with trimming bands of d<.-k Hudson hiy mirk. There is a muff to match as beautifully tailored as if it -were of cloth. Another fur coat, in the form of a dress, is of moleskin, worked in bands whlcli show horizontal, bias and chevron lines. The quaint, snug shoulder cape is new in its slanting lines. Development in Fur. One of the most Interesting developments in fashions is seen in the fur coat of the present day. A few years ago designers would not have thought of draping fuAs in the same way that they would chiffon. Very many of the new fur wraps of the mantle type show almost priceless pelts arranged In the form of draped capes. Following the great popularity of silk and serge mantles during the early autumn season, it is to be expected that furs made in these styles will be equally popular. Both capes and coats are made in tiers, one falling over the other. These do not ripple, but wrap or drape gracefully about th« wearer. AH of the new mantles have a very flat hanging back, which gives a square appearance to the figure, although the front often crosses in a diagonal line and wraps the figure snugly. This Is' just the difference between the coats of last winter and those of 1910-1921 —that Indefinable something which makes all the difference between being in the fashion or out of fashion. Caracul is a fur well suited to these square hanging designs. A lovely new wrap of natural caracul made in this

way has a deep collar and a straight band of fur around the bottom to form a trimming. There are no sleeves, the arms coming through slits at the sides. At the armholes the points of the squares are turned back and buttoned in envelope effect. Considerable care was expended on the lining T>f this wrap, which is of beautiful brown and yellow brocaded silk, with part of the brocaded 'dolgp embroidered in yellow threads.. The buttons were selected with quite as pinch attention as was to the lining—an example of the thought given to every detail in the clothes of to- ' ” I „ 1

day. They are of gray galallth to blend with the soft coloring of the fur, and are pear-sharped, carved in beautiful design. • Another gray and caracul wrap, being shown among the newest models. Is made In the form of a straight cape but has bands of the fur .placed around the waistline to give the effect of two tiers. There is a deep hanging kolinsky collar which really forms a little cape In itself. Hudson Seal Is Favored. Hudson seal is as popular us ever for general wear. There is much to* recommend It. It is dunible and ineXpensive in comparison with many of the other furs as well as becoming. A smartly tailored fur coat developed in Hudson seal has a big cord

girdle, which pinches it in tightly at the waistline. The cuff bands, shoulder collar and skirt hem show the fur worked in bands. For those who do not care for the all-black coat there is Hudson seal combined with other fur. A tightly girdled coat of Hudson seal, with a shoulder cape collar and cuff bands of Kolinsky is another model that is shown. The fur redingote is seen in a variety of forms and is being made in a great many combinations of, furs. Among the more extravagant coats are lovely redingotes developed in unborn lamb, trimmed with sable. They are in fitted lines with the exception that the hips flare slightly just where the pocket openings fall. Tn the choice of skins we have considerable latitude. Almost every sort of fur is used for the handsomest of wraps. It is several seasons since there has been such a lavish use of moleskin in coats. There are wraps of Siberian squirrel trimmed with skunk—a durable old-fashioned fur, which has been brought into the limelight again both as a trimming and for small furs. There are coats of caracul, beaver, nutria —in fact, almost every fur is used. Among the almost priceless coats are those Of chinchilla and Russian sable. Then there Is mink —one of the most popular of this winter’s furs. In addition to being fashionable it -s durable—a most desirable quality considering the present prices of furs. The placing of the skins appears to be a very important matter, for in this way new and unusual effects are obtained. If the wrap is not made in tiers the skins frequently are placed to give the effect of tiers. Wrap Like Traveling Coat. A wrap created by one of our American designers’is of eastern mink in straight cape effect, with two bands of the fur set below the collar to give the effect of three capes graduating in size, the collar forming the first The skins are arranged horizontally on either side of the front and around the collar to make a trimming band. There are no sleeves, merely slits through which the arms pass. It Is lined with a beautiful black and gold brocaded silk. Another mink wrap, in one-piece cape effect, has the skins placed to give the effect of stripes running around both in the coHar and body portion. Trimming bands of the fur are on either side of the front and hang in wide loops, which are arranged at the waistline so that they may be used as a muff. Like an old-time English traveling coat, with little shoulder capes forming the sleeves, is another mink wrap. The body is in Scape form, with a teninch trimming border achieved by placing the skins diagonally. On this model the collar is really small, not more than six inches wide in the back and becoming gradually narrower in the front until it disappears at the waistline. Among the evening wraps are some new and beautiful models of ermine. A particularly interesting one shows a straight cape of the fur hanging almost to the waistline in the form eta deep yoke, with collar.

Coat made in the form of a dress —it is of moleskin worked in bands.

Tightly-girdled coat of Hudson seal with cape collar and cuff bands of kolinsky.