Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 275, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 November 1920 — Old Greece Is In Style Note [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Old Greece Is In Style Note

a prominent fashion correspondent. Ihe romantic morganatic marriage of the young king of Greece and his June visit to his bride, living. In Paris, set the French dressmakers to thinking of the beautiful possibilities for fall fashions in the native Greek costume, both ancient and modern, the result beluga decided Greek note in the autumn collections. The wife of the king of Greece, who is very beautiful, and her younger sis l ter, equally lovely, wear charming Parisian clothes. The youth and beauty of these two girls plus the royal romance 'of one of them appeal to the creative genius of the Paris- dressmaker and milliner, consequently “a la Grecque,” will be very fashionable in Paris. As there is so much of real merit, in Greek inspiration, one may ex-pert-'many lovely things during the coming winter. . ’ • Designers Turn to Greece. , Greece is only one of the many countries to which designers have turned for their inspiration. Makers of clothes appear loath to give up any. successful Idea that has been brought out recency, and we find The old mingled with the The Egyptian influence is still felt, as is the Italian Renaissance. To Persia have dressmakers turned for embroideries and to Russia so? loose, baggy sleeves and blousing bodices as well as embroideries. Trply, we have an'unusual mixture of fashions. Spanish styles have not relinquished their hold. Many ideas are still .gathered from the picturesque costumes of Spain. . There are several-things, however, upon which all agrees—the slender s’lhouette, the nlbre somber colors so? day time wear—blffck. browns ar d grays leading—and, striking contrast to these, brilliant hues for the evening. They agree, tpo, in the tendency toward,the high collar, long sleeve and the unevenness of skirts at the hem, which tends to make them more graceful. AU of these points are brought out in every collection. She collections are being constantly augmented and we may expect a great many interesting developments from the numerous Meas already advanced.

Dresses that fit in with the presentday fashions may be made by using the forms of the ancient Greek costumes with few changes. In an interTBsting frock we see the straight Greek dress of about the Sixth century. The embroideries are exact copies of those used on an old Greek costume. In the sleeve lies the only real change in the design. A medium shade 6f tan duvetyn is used for this frock and the embroideries are in beautiful shades at brown. A narrow belt of brown leather girdles it. • - “ ' si Moflel of Mousseline. > An Interesting model is developed in coral mousseline de sole and gold cloth, with coral chains forming a girdle and shoulder straps. It will be recalled th€t the ancient Greek military dress showed plaits and even that of the present day carries a remnant of

the Idea of plaitings which were so characteristic of the costume of Greece during thebeight of their imperial glory. We usually think of Greek dresses as having been simple and beautiful always, consisting of the straight chiton—a garment which was cut and partly sewn—or the costume achieved entirely by means of drapery. The Greeks, however, had changing fashions, just as we hate today. There were periods of overelaboration, which saw the dress laboriously and artifiwith pun* ver, much modernized, U developed in pale blue crepe Boman. In color this model jwa«. th. Great, being pdrhte

and gold, the tatter forming the embroidery and bands on the skirt and on the jacket A big double looped sash at one side is seemingly a continuation of the crepe bodice; Autumn Models Have Plaits. Any number of the smartest model# for autumn have plaits. Coats, suits and frocks fresh from their recent voyage from Paris show plaits of every kind and description, which indicates that it is impossible to go too far with this trimming to please women. One of the most extreme uses of plaits for the new season appears on a model suit developed in beautiful crepe Roman. Black is the color selected for this suit, the coat of which is very long~and slightly blousing at ji low waistline. The sleeves are loose and-cut in one with the garment

itself. The Interesting application of plaits Ues in the form of a fanshaped panel on the jacket. This panel has fine horizontal plaits placed as closely together as. possible. These Ue very flat The skirt has a corresponding plaited panel in the front, which hangs a few inches below the hem of the skirt itself A lovely white' embroidery and white fox collar and cuffs emphasize the vogue for black and white. A band of the embroidery is placed down either side of the panel and around d shoulder and back yoke in the coat. Designers |loe Ermlnette. A few years ago, when women wore white furs in the sweltering heat at summer, the craze for white fur reached such an extreme tharfor some 'time after the well dressed woman was loath to wear any white fur. We can only hope that the present-day revival will not run to any such extreme. For the present, at least, snowy fur trimmings are oil models frqm the Most exclusive houses. Ermlnette is being extensively exploited as a trimming by the Paris designers. This fur very- closely resembles real ermine, one of the pelts always greatly in vogue. While it is not-as expensive as the real fur, it is not cheap. As well as being used for a trimming in the form of narrow edging and for large collars and deep cuffs, it is combined with seal in evening wraps. White skunk is used to make -great muffling collars and deep cuffs on the most elaborate of evening wraps, some of the'newest of which are formed of beautiful' silver brocades. One great designer- has invented an entirely new shoulder line of Greek influence in which the material Is held up over one shoulder and cut to appear as though falling off the other. Embroidery Is Featured. Martial et Armand feature embroidery on the backs of garments only. A large disk design in contrasting colors 4s a favorite pattern. An embroidery design may extend across the back of a coat from shouldfer to shoulder or be placed horizontally from shoulder to. hem. On dresses the embroidery used in the latter way Is very often of silver threads. Black embroider? on I white velvet, white satin and white net is prominent A few models, show white embroidery on black, the preference being given to the former. An interesting model in white and Marit has a foundation skirt and bodice of black satin, with the tunic of white embroidered Ina* XTxrsr.™ I U ’ A ' •4411'‘'wato/wi f*'®* ”•** __ r' _ _ Ito Asm' /hi" mdhHCMAIinAA.

Plaited Draw of Blue Crepe Roman Embroidered In Gold.

This Is a Simple Evening Frock of Gray Crepe.