Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 258, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 28 October 1920 — Suits That Win Favor in Paris [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Suits That Win Favor in Paris

In Paris there to a marked preference for extremely simple toilettes. In fact, writes a prominent fashion correspondent, the Tailored costume of almost classic style is now tremendously fashionable with Its long, hatf-fltted Jacket and slender skirt, the latter either plain or plaited. A costume of this type Is more representative of the real Paris fashions thnn anything Zouave. African, Czecho-Slovak or Egyptian. The Parisienne, therefore, may rightly claim that not all women tn France are extravagant nor are all of the Paris dressmakers producing extreme effects. Fashions are often misrepresented, and through this misrepresentation one might gather that the taste of the present-day woman is for clothes that are showy and extravagant, rather than those that are beautiful and simple. Many people, when viewing the new fashions, are Inclined to talk of the things which are extreme and unusual, rather than those that are simple and refined, which tatter the best-dressed women buy. The women of Paris, even more than those of America, are misrepresented In this way, so that It would appear that the Parisienne is a slave to every delirious creation that the French couturiere may put out A mannequin at the races wearing some bizarre costume will be Immediately proclaimed to the world as wearing the latest Paris fashion, when perhaps this dress is the only one of Its kind seen during the whole season in Paris

Simplicity Sought After. What more simple and economical than the tailored suit or blue serge dress, both of which are now and have been for some time In Paris fashions? What more refined than the models which the leading dressmakers create for their own private customers? That this simplicity is greatly admired and much sought, regardless of the publicity attached to the bizarre styles, is proved by the fact that certain houses in Paris who cater entirely to private trade are sought in a roundabout way by purchasers of models. One house in particular that has • great Paris following and which because of this'refuses to sell to manufacturers- or dressmakers, preferring to keep their models exclusive, can and do get from their private trade from 2,000 to 3,000 francs each for their simple silk crepe dresses made without one stitch of embroidery, lace or trimming of any character. Even the hems are only hand-rolled, and ihe dresses, which are little more than slips with pendant cascading panels or' handkerchief points, are without lining, guimpe or undersleeve. Some of these models have not even * hook. They slip on over the head

and a sash ties around the waist. Yet for this simplicity and grace the discriminating Parisienne will pay 50 per cent more than for a dress with trimming, wftoi lacks the cachet of simplicity. individuality and perfect cut. Tailored Sults With Fur. For the autumn there are charming tailored suits in redingote style trimmed with fur bands. Sometimes these redingotes have plaited fullness let into the skirts. Simple fall dresses also are being shown in both redingote and apron styles and new wraps are in perfectly simple outline. - In dresses many variations of the wvttngote appear. They may be made entirely of cloth and trimmed with

braid or with a slip or underdress of satin an£ a long redlngote of doth. Many such frocks have high collar* which button tightly about the throat and are faced with a contrasting cloth. Autumn skirts are somewhat longer than those worn during the spring and summer. A skirt with Its hem ten Inches from the ground is smart, yet not extreme. A redlngote suit developed in green velveteen has a plaited skirt and th*

coat is trimmed with skunk fur. In this model we see the beauty and grace of the suit with a very long coat. In past seasons women have declined to accept the long-coated suit, saying that it had a tendency to make one look older. This, however, is not true of the really long coat. Nothing could be, more girlish than a suit such as this one, giving, as it does, the appearance of a one-piece dress with an underskirt. Another example of the redingote type is evolved from brick-red broadcloth material, and the trimming is kolinsky fur. t Ideal Dress for Street Wear. One of the newest and most popular blue serge dresses is very much like the redingote suits in outline. It gives the effect of a skirt and a very long coat, although it is really a onepiece dress. The trimming consists of bands of tailer’s braid of the same dark blue hue as the frock. It is an ideal dress for street wear in the autumn. Braid as a trimming has found considerable favor in this autumn’s fashions. Dressmakers are showing great originality in their methods of using this trimming. Not content with braid alone, they have stitched it in silks of contrasting colors and applied it in ways that give the effect of new and elaborate embroideries. Often the braid is embroidered by hand. The new square-hanging satin mantle is of the very heavy quality which is being used for street wear this fall. The trimming is moleskin, a fur which will vie with squirrel in popularity this winter. Great stress is laid on satin for wraps of all sorts. The satin of 1920 ts a striking example of the wonderful progress that has been made In the silk industry. One never would suspect it of being even a distant relative of the stiff and lustrous satins of bygone days. In past years satin coats were considered suitable for elderly ladles only, w’hile a wrap of today’s satin is youthful. Lining silks are quite as handsome as those from which the garments themselves are made. These are beautiful Chippendale prints and mikado jacquards, both of which have radium backgrounds. The Chippendale is printed in multicolors in Japanese, butterfly, leaf and flower motifs, while the mikado jacquard is brocaded in conventional and floral designs in selfcolors. A strong fancy is manifested at the present time for plaits arranged In groups of ten to twelve, with plain spaces of equal size intervening. There are dresses on which the trimming consists ot inserted plaited bands surrounding the skirt in rows, Many of the new printed silks are worked up in this way.

One of the new fail suits developed In plain and plaid woolen, a combination that is being emphasized in autumn collections.

Dres* of gray satin and dark blue velvet. The long'mitten sleeves are of the satin embroidered in blue to match the velvet.