Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 252, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 20 October 1920 — SERGE OR SATIN FOR MID-SEASON [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

SERGE OR SATIN FOR MID-SEASON

With the first breath of cool weather the dying season’s wardrobe begins to look like nothing at all. observes a New York fashion correspondent. And what is to be done for clothes, for something that resembles tbe proper sort of clothes, for this halfway period? That is the problem, and It is comparatively easy to solve when one regards the array of mid-season dresses that the shops are offering. Even on the streets and In the restaurants there have been evidences that, among fashionable women. there has been some thought of preparedness, for many are the new street frocks that have made their appearance. A study of them may save many mistakes. - The dresses of the Intervening sea* son are serge or satin, for they must be worn without coats and on tbe street, with hats and furs, just as any suit of the later fall days, taffeta had Its run through the summer months, but it has reached the time of discard. Black satin or meteor or any of the allied materials is the thing for street wear, and it has come back Into its own. The newer black satin dresses are charming enough to lure even the purchaser who has decided to wait until winter is really upon us. _ ■ It sounds like an old story to say that the simpler the satin dress the more beautiful it is. Most of the newer satin gowns for tbe street are in black—a very few in-the darkest of blues or in black —and they are cut on the stralghtest lines possible, with skirts just a trifle fuller than they have been and necks that are round or pointed, as the case of the Individual taste may dictate. A touch of

some white thing about the throat and the neckline is a usual thing. It is more demure In aspect than were the flaunting flebus of the spring and summer.

* Skirts Are Full. The skirts at these later dresses are full, and they take on this extra width in various and interesting manners. For Instance, there is the paneled skirt, with loose and flopping breadths at front and b ac k or at both sides, but usually there id a suggestion of an underskirt which gently hugs the figure and allows the fullness of the outer skirt to hang loosely over it The sleeves are lons and loose or tight as the case may be. Some of them are fitted at the armholes and others are cut In so baggy, a fashion as to have almost no shape at all. It ail depends on the figure and what It can stand and what Is chosen for a particular case, for there is coming to be more and more of a regard for the individual note. Each woman for her own charm and expression of personality—that Is the new slogan, and it Is expressing itself in every direction, especially in this case of the street frock.

Then there la the serge dress, which at this season of the year particularly demonstrates its place in the wardrobe of seasonable frocks. There Is nothing to take its place—nothing that can step to to make the assertion that It to “Just as good.” About this blue serge frock there to everything that to smart and chic. The newer serge frockh are almost sure to be embroidered, at least those which are shown now are so trimmed. This is an embroidery that can show originality. and there to the best of chances for a disx - Hrhan Hbttfgg fat MnnlOTPd .nnctive gown wuen In the selection. The most of the embroideries of course;ttey show all ceteraofthe rainbow combined in one narrow atrip. The stitchings is most c , . 1 . ness of a < background at blue serge.

dally if they are cleverly distributed and if their colors are chosen with a view to making the most of a small space. Woolen Stitches Effective. K Woolen stitches on blue serge or tricotine, or on any of these materials that in some way resemble one another, are as effective as anything’ can be,’ and on many of tbe newer fall frocks they are seen. Red Is the color that does the most In this respect. There are some serge dresses that show only long red woolen stitches, with here and there a stray motif to accentuate the Idea of the color combination. Then there pre others which are more lavishly worked up In tills same color combination. It is a bl nation that carries an appeal because of it#» cheerfulness. Embroideries following the Roumanian designs or those from Czechoslovakia are the most popular. It to the strip of many triors that has the first place to trimmings, and, applied to' the frock of blue serge, certainly beauty and wealth of Its texture. A frock of blue serge, one of the very newest te be seen anywhere, has a high girdle sort of belt curved to front to a width greater than at any other place around the waist. This strip l« embroidered solidly In reds and. greens and purples. Then, to repeat this brilliant bit of color, there are bands at the hips, each about two and a half inches broad and twelve inches long. They are applied so that they bold, extra side fullness for the skirt The neck of the frock Is plainly finished by a cord, and the sleeves are ended to the same way, so that all tbe trim-

mlngs are gathered about the waist and the hips. It to a novel grouptaML; of strips, and it is beautiful as an example of what can be done with a small amount of «■- Droiaerea inmmmg appiiw. Rpadlnff bltle seres—SDd not long ago as not togethonly to provethat the American woman wants what she wants when she wants it and will not Bed belts and red. bindings and red facings are popular with the newer blue serge frocks. These touches, go a long way toward providing that necessary element Of style. One little girl at tea In a gay hotel Had. a blue serge frock with a short and very full skirt, like the Partolennes are wearing. The bodice was short aud_tohtty fitted and a bit Thesleeves were tight. The one was a handsomely steel-studded red sr be " " o ' ”° re •“ “ The waistline of many of the new dresses has dropped to the hips, all which potot It to handled to various ways. But this does team tobo a most popular waistline with who are buying frocks for wear just now. This long waistline, while M to Ey ; . erally liked by every one, must be most artistically adjusted to the demands of the individual figure In order to make it really attractive. Therepurchase a gown of this general charly, to study the gown she would have and to make them adjust tbeamlni «, W the other. .