Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 244, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 9 October 1920 — Large Hats Gay as Posy Garden [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Large Hats Gay as Posy Garden

As the summe? advances hats grow larger. The small hat Is always popular, both with the American woman and the Parlslenne, but the mode must be varied throughout the year, declares a prominent fashion writer. Consequently a fair proportion of large hats is always shown, but midsummer Is the logical season for them. The efforts of the milliners to popularize the more dressy, picturesque styles have met with great success. — Midsummer models are of lace, organdie, bright colored Swiss muslins, tulle, taffetas, ginghams and, of course, some straws. The fact thnt more fabrics than straws are used is due to two causes —the Parlslenne has never considered the all-straw hat as becoming as one in which a soft fabric is Introduced, and the difficulty of obtaining straw. The high cost of straw braids, together with their scarcity, is making it practically necessary for the Paris milliner to economize in the quantity used. Spring hats were gay. Those for summer are gayer. Summer time means flowers. So, of course, we have the flower hats. Not the slightest bit of care appears to have been taken in trimming them, yet*we know by the

beauty they so subtly express that they represent the greatest care on the part of those who are real artists in this Une. Like Misty Gardens. Dozens of different sorts of flowers are on a single hat Milliners appear ’tcrfagve a penehaut^r^ tumbling, them haphazardly over the crowns.' to trail onto the brims in the order that they happen to fall. They frequently swathe their miniature flower gardens in veiling. Both milliners and dressmakers have taken to softening bright colors by covering them with airy bits of tulle. Perhaps they got the idea of covering the colorful flowers with blue-gray net from the gardens all misty with dew in the early morning. Certainly Hie effect recalls such a picture. Lewis of Paris shows very pronounced floral garnitures on widebrimmed. large-crowned taffeta hats. Not only do these have their garlands of flowers, but they also have the ribbon bridle or throat latch as an added bit of coquetry. Large hats trimmed with veils are very much in evidence. Long scarf veils delicately embroidered and bordered are draped crosswise on tricorn hats. The flowing scarf end is left to hang from one side. The big coolie hat is again being used, and is especially interesting and becoming when made with a transparent brim developed from horsehair braid. Many coolie brims in combination with close-fitting headbands and turban crowns of taffeta are noted. Taffeta and Straw. ——- Taffeta in combination with straw is a big feature. Broad-brimmed sailor shapes covered with taffeta, have the brim edged with straw and sometimes are trimmed with large petal ornaments made of taffeta and bound at the edge with straw braid of matching or contrasting hue. Marie Crozet shows very smart semitailored hats of taffeta entirely covered with little lines of satin cire ribbon. This makes a hat which is simple and at the same time elegant This house also exploits large black straw hats faced with colors, such as king’s blue and emerald green. About the cro*n and falling over the brim are lightly placed draperies of black chantilly lace and the crown is banded with a narrow ribbon in the bright

color of the underbrim facing. This makes a very picturesque hat. Combinations of straw and ribbon frequently are seen among new hats. Special favorites are those in sailor shape where the brim Is trimmed with broad strappings of straw braid through which a wide ribbon passes to form the garniture. Talbot makes a strong feature of this type of hat, which is perfectly lovely In white straw trimmed with navy blue taffeta ribbon. ■ • Hats; like dresses, have sashes, and the sashes are also veiled. The ribbon is crushed and run through a jtublng of veiling much narrower than the ribbon. A large coterie of hats have come to be known as garden hats, not because anybody ever wields the rake or the trowel in one of them, but because the drooping brim, picture type of country hat needed something in the way of a name that brought with it a vision of lovely old gardens and of times when women dressed in keeping with their surroundings. Petal Ornaments Popular. While it is doubtful if there are women who would like to return to the days when we spent our

time' In the occupations which were considered purely feminine, such as ordering our households and watering our rose bushes, the memory of oldfashioned days always has a certain charm, and we still like to dress ourselves in this picturesque fashion when in the country. Ix>vely things are done wlth organdies and straws. Drooping brims of black mllan are topped by puffy crowns of pink organdie. Here we see the hard-working petal again. Apparently not at all weary from playing its important role in fashions this summer, made of pink muslin, It flutters around the crowns of such hats. While it is charming as a trimming for dresses, it is even more attractive as a hat garniture. I have just seen such a hat in pink and black, with clusters of glistening black cherries scattered over the brim. The orchard has not been neglected by searching modistes. It has given as much inspiration as the garden and the summer fields with their galaxy of wild flowers, and of all the fruits of the orchard the cherry is the favorite.

Since smocks have been practically adopted into the sweater family we see more and more sets consisting of this type of waist, copied from the dress of the peasants of France, with hats to match. Having these overblouses that match the hat is an excellent idea, for everybody knows how difficult It is to get a sweater and hat that look as if they bore any relation to one another. Now that smocks of materials. Including duvetyn, tricolette and angora, -and many sweaters are so much like blouses, one may easily masquerade as .the other. From Paris comes a smock of white gabardine—not the lightweight gabardine such as is used for suits, but a heavy quality like coat materials. It is made to give the effect of a panel both back and front by means of bright scarlet leather bands from the bottom of the blouse in front over either shoulder to half Way down the back. The leather has a perforated design revealing the white. The same Idea is carried out tn any trimming buttons, which are covered first with white, then with the perforated leather. Accompanying this is a large hat of rough white straw banded with scar let leather. ' : \ - Duvetyn sets are. much In favor. * some, two colors are combined.

Upper row, left to right—Marie Crozet hat of blue taffeta, with a straw braid edging the taffeta petals at the side. Lewis model of navy blue taffeta, with a garland of roses. Lower row, left to right—Talbot sailor having the brim threaded with ribbon. Talbot veil-trimmed tricorn, with long scarf drapery falling from one point Reboux, hat in Chinese coolie style, made of blue taffeta, with a brim of plaited blue horsehair braid.