Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 236, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 30 September 1920 — the Directoire Note in Coats [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

the Directoire Note in Coats

Coats are among the first clothes that we buy for autumn. There are several reasons for getting these early tn the season. We can wear them over our,summer, dresses and start the season with cloth frocks left over from spring If we have a good-looking coat. Then. too. the fashions In coats are settled eartier than they are.in dresses. There Is not the constant changing that there Is in frocks. Ido not mean, writes a Parts fashion correspondent, that there are not great changes tn coats from one season to another, but that the styles in coats brought out early in the autumn carry through the entire winter. This fall’s topcoats are in line with the advanced style features seen in other articles of Wearing apparel. Along with the oriental and Egyptian notes, which are being strongly Haired in both current and advance fashion models, there is appearing another note fostered by several Important houses. This is the Directoire. Regarding the styles of this period there- might be something in common between the psychology of 1920 Jn France and that of the dosing years of the eighteenth century. The style of the Directoire period was patterned upon exaggerated classical outline and appealed to that new class of citizens recently come Into power and wealth through

France’s changing political conditions. The Parts dressmaker today. Is catering to a similar class, those who have gained wealth and- influence through the recent war. Mingle In New Models. Society Is not 'yet organized as It was. before the war. Everything goes, as it were, tn a hlt-or-mlss style. The Parts dressmaker, being forced to study the state of a new class of customers. vaguely reaches out for ideas around which to build models that will conform to this new standard in -taste .in dress. Just as the Dlrectoire was a melange of classic and modern Ideas, so today are fashions culminating to a mixture of orient and Occident. . One of the most pronounced arid striking features, which has already registered a success In Paris, is the high Dlrectoire collar of organdie or crepe georgette, and even of plaited cloth. This historic form of neck dressing has been eagerly taken up by a few smart women and its success seems to be assured. These Dlrectoire collars are seen as frequently on coats as they are on dresses. In fact, the Dlrectoire is strongly emphasized to winter wraps. Very smart to Its aspect to the tall_s_ ar zelant’lt that nivnntflv omnhfl« . of form without a vestige of trimming. Only I a narrow belt of organdie tied about the waist broke the straightness of I S". i. semi- [ their lines, ineee aresses decollete and had sleeves y t -they might almost have been said to be sleeveless. . This type of costume I x.-a. w „ii that it bas been copied took so wen 1 I in heavier materials tor aumuiu. wdtoe I material as the coat- lining I Deep Color color I £ *KSc' ~

tones are being made up In Directoire style. Among the new models shown by one French bouse are dark brown and rose-colored cloths made in a cross between the Directoire and the tSMMk ern French dressmaker's interpretation of that period. One such model is developed in brown cloth with a high Directoire frill of ecru batiste. A third interpretation of the Dtreetolre is seen In three-piece suits developed tn blue serge, with beautiful embroideries executed in metal nailbeads of iridescent colors. The skirts of these dresses have a one-side drapery, with a slashed opening at the side where the drapery falls. The coat shows the cutaway front and the long sides and back so characteristic of the Directoire period. There is considerable dignity In these suits and they are also of a type very becoming to the average American figure. A strong point in favor of the success of the Directoire is the fact that almost airwomen like the simplicity of lino which characterizes it A coat with a novel vest having a Directoire collar Is worked out tn a lightweight serge, with accordion platting set on at A low hipline. This illustrates one of the methods of obtaining the iong-waisted effect that has taken such a firm hold on all autumn coats. It appears tn suit coate as- well as separate wraps. A Reboux hat of the Breton sailor type is worn

with the coat. Here the trimming, which takes the form of flat silk rosea Is placed beneath the brim just over the right ear. Lined With Brocaded Bille. The feature of a popular form ol mantle coat Is the cape back, which is lined with a beautiful brocaded _ mantles ta d* tO SF Bw Cal gFt , Ju U*s original model was made with the caps The craze for plaiting as a trimming baa set its mark on the autumn coats. There are very smart coats on which the trimming' consists of inserted plaited bands surrounding the skirt to rows and of high-platted collars ofthe cloth. Sometimes a vest pf embossed leather Is added. Then the high collar is of the leather. Tobacco brown serge and soft undressed leather in soft, harmonizing shades of browri make a smart coat One model shows the plaited trimmtog. ft is one of the most popular coats to Paris. Soft brown wool is chose* for fES/JSTflat A smart-looking French woman who recently appeared In this criat wore with it a simple Mg of an unusual shade, the edge. _ Rlbbon stjito shades. Hats are * bons to the form of the most exag. j y IWto' the° presen t-<tay woma*

Here is shown a cape mantle developed in a lightweight gray homespun and a serge coat with accordion plaiting at the sides and a vest with a high Directoire collar.