Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 214, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 September 1920 — Fall Modes as Seen in Paris [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Fall Modes as Seen in Paris

From Paris, the source of fashion Inspiration, there come at this season little talek filled with significance. They are pertinent signs, observes a Paris fashion correspondent, to be regarded with due attention and all seriousness if one would know the general fashion tendencies for the season to come. Now Is the psychological moment to think of gowns that will develop by the time cold weather sets in. The original scheme may be changed and juggled, but in that way It becomes perfected and one’s wardrobe, Instead of being d matter of chance, becomes

an individual achievement. That is the way to be really well dressed. The lessons to be learned from the French women in this respect are numerous. A French woman .regards primarily the lines of her own figure, the shape of her own head and the setup of her own personality. A certain line suits her figure. She looks upon that as a fixed point and around it revolves the building of the clothes of a new season. She does not see styles as things in themselves, she sees them only as possible adaptations to herself. And if she finds a new thing that fits in with her ideas of herself she bites at it like a trout at a fly. She never buys a gown solely because it Is beautiful. She never allows herself to stay out of the picture long enough to consider the dress as a separate entity, and, what is 'more, she accomplishes her end with cleverness and thought and usually with great artistic success. Importance of the Lines. The general lines are the first to be considered, and all signs point to certain changes in silhouette. For instance, the fullness over the hips is gradually declining. That seems to be a certainty, for all the reports from the English and French races say that the lines of the silhouette are straight and uncompromising. They - say the chemise dress is still in favor. For that fact many will give thanks, for this dress has come to be greatly loved. So much can be done with it In the way of variations. It is so vastly becoming to many figures and its possibilities of adaptation are too wonderful to be lightly cast aside. Proof of its desirability lies In the fact that it returns repeatedly to the fore ranks of fashion. There is a heated discussion going on about the ever-variable length of sleeves and skirts. Last year at this time our skirts in America very nearly touched the ground and clung about the feet. Now they have sprung sky high, and everybody—even those who swore they could not do It —is pleased as can be over the change. Will the short skirt stay with us for another season? French and English society women predicted that skirts would lengthen, but, as a matter of fact, they do not seem to be one whit longer. All the photographs which are being sent from the races show skirts that well nitfi touch Hie knees by way of length, for the French always have worn them much shorter than ours. American women, too, have become used to the more abbreviated skirt lengths, and common sense would lead one to suppose that the skirt would remain short for the coming season. However, the only fault in that heavy rerunning is that common sense does not always rule the ways of Cashion, and for the actual decision one will have to wait until the fall styles have

Evening gown showing manner in which lace is being used, Callot putting her own particular stamp upon the design. , ——

actually been • created and imported. All that can be said Is that skirts are still short. Not a long one has been seen upon the landscape. The Sleeve Lengths. Sleeve lengths are almost as important. In fact, just at this season they are really more important, for sleeves have taken on such a tendency to fluctuate that one scarcely knows what is right and what is wrong about themAnything goes as long as It is well done, and whether the long sleeve or the short sleeve or the three-quarter sleeve is the most fashionable is a fact that is hard to establish. Many of the latest Parisian reports tell of sleeves which are longer than they have been, but then, Parisian sleeves have always been extremely shortshorter, in fact, than most of ours. They ate showing and wearing sleeves of three-quarter length and sleeves that end below the elbow, having there a wide arid flowing opening. There are some very chic new things, too,That show lofig and tightly fitting sleeves clasping snugly over the hands. They look beautiful, after so great a quantity of abbreviation an has been our portion during the last couple of years. But here, as with the skirts, there is no telling what will be the wild popularity after the fall openings have actually been held and gfter the winter modes have' been Only, a change is, due, and just how iiwflWcome or what form It will take is hard to foretell exactly. At present any length of sleeve is a good length, and there is ample opportunity to adapt the length and the shape of the sleeve to the proportions of the individual arm and figure. In playing with the lengths and the general tightness much that is beautiful can be and has been accomplished this last season. Also much that is execrable has been allowed to live because not enough conscientious thought and attention has been applied to the problem in hand. Plaits have had a wonderful run of popularity, but upon many of the new models plaits . are seen revived in many ways. * Evening Gowns in Paris. The between-season evening gown's that are being created in Paris, mostly for the Parisian trade, are extremely simple In outline. Many of them, a report says, are made of heavy crepes in solid colors. The skirts are draped and the bodices are made quite simply, with little or no sleeves about them. Since lace is so extremely popular one finds additions of lace on othefwlse quite simple frocks —as an edging for an underskirt (this is an extremely good fashion) or as a trifling addition to a bodice. The whole lace gown is certainly popular. It is seen, everywhere, and every day the leading designers are adding new lace frocks to their collections. At the fashionable evening gatherings in Paris many lace frocks are seen, many

of them being of black chantilly draped over cream-colored satin. One lace frock was made in chemise fashion and had a train square in shape set on at the shoulders and allowed te sweep over the fldor after the gown, which was quite short as to Skirt. Thio was of black lace over white, and ths train was also built from the lace laid over the satin. 4

Between-season creation by Cheruit, illustrating afternoon gown of orange crepe de chine, with embroidery In Silver threads.