Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 186, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 3 August 1920 — Page 2

Two Days at Rest Cure

By JOHN FIRST BROOK

1838, by McClur* Newspaper Syndicate.) The season was rather dull at the Rest Cure. The ladles had been wishRig for something to happen out of the ordinary when the advent of a guest who refused to be sociable set them all in a flutter of excitement. “Are we all quite sure that we saw the crutches?” asked Mrs. Dunvegan as she poured tea. “Oh, yes, my dear; I, for one, am quite positive—two crutches with leather tops," proclaimed the widow Pepper, as she fingered the locket that contained the portrait of her dead husband. “What night was it we saw them come?” piped Miss Tinpenny. ‘‘Since my nerves have been so sensitive I can’t remember dates, or handkerchiefs, or anything Important. “It was last Wednesday evening.” declared Mrs.-Looney, a fat woman In a scarlet sweater coat; “being so sensitive to the weather I remember it was raining a perfect downpour. We bad just finished dinner, you all recollect, when they came into the office, the woman stamping and shaking the fain all about, and saying to the clerk as soon as she reached the desk, *You got my letter! I hope you can let me have rooms on the ground floor. I will not stay unless I can be quite away from the other guests. I have reasons for not wishing to be disturbed.’ ” “Yes, yes,” murmured Miss Tinpenny, “It all comes back to me now, dear Mrs. Looney, for you describe things very well. lam quite sure you could write a sonnet. The man with the crutches followed her?” “Such a lot of baggage as they had!” softly murmured Mrs. Fish, a thin woman with straight hair and scant clothing. “Yea,” chimed in Mrs. Tepper, “what a fuss and clatter there was. Boxes and bundles, and two trunks. The poor man with the crutches was bandied about and carried along in the midst . of the confusion. No one tool; a single thought of him, poor fellow. I suppose he was tumbled in with the rest of her baggage, for when she at last banged her door the man with the crutches was gone.” “Poor fellow,” faltered Mrs. Fish; “perhaps he did not pass us, but he may have climbed out of the hall window.” “With crutches?” Interrogated all the ladles at once. “Not possible, my dear,” drawled Mrs. Looney. “Well, none of us really saw him go Into the room,” persisted Mrs. Fish. “No, we did not,” assented Mrs. Dunvegan, “but that he went in we are all quite sure, for We heard his crutches pounding on the floor.” “My impression is that the person Is a medium, and that she smuggled him In while she kept our minds merged in a subconscious mist,” musingly suggested Mrs. Pepper. “Well, who are they? Perhaps the man with the crutches is ill,” further Inquired Mrs. Tyroll. “We looked in the hotel register. Two names were given—Miss Burkholder and below a name so blotted we could not make it out; we thought we recognized an S, and an M.” “No matter.” murmured Mrs. Dunvegan, “the name was purposely disguised. and 1. for one, decidedly object to such deceit going on under our very noses.” “I suppose we might form ourselves into an investigating committee,” said Mrs. Looney, “if it were not so much trouble.” “Now,” said Mrs. Dunvegan, “let us go about the thing in an open, straightforward manner. Let us go right to the point. I will myself interview the proprietor (though Pm afraid he has been bribed). You, Miss Tinpenny. interview one chambermaid. Mqs. Pepper the other one. Mrs. Fish, could you take bold of the bellboy? “And you. Miss Tyroll, would you mind tackling the bathman?” “Don’t ask me.” objected the newcomer. “Remember, I never saw the apparition of the man with the crutches. Anyway, especially at’Vest cures, I believe in letting sleeping dogs lie.” “We must’ dress for dinner,” exclaimed Mrs. Dunvegan, rising. The next afternoon the ladies met as usual at the hour. There could be observed an -undercurrent of suppressed excitement. Mrs. Dunvegan looked nervously about. “Where is Miss Tinpenny? She is the only one absent I do hope her poor nerves have not given way. Did yon find OUT anything definite from the bellboy about the person on the ground floor, Mrs. Fish?” She took a small piece of paper from her reticule as tM timid lady made answer. “I Inquired from Albert by way of an opening If the rooms in the hotel were pretty well filled. *Middlin’,’ answered the bellboy.” Mrs. Fish referred to her paper as she continued; “he —id. ‘Them two rooms on the ground floor bein’ occupied makes more work; she’s'an awful ringpr! Wants things all the time. But the boss says It’s none oil'my business, and if his help tikes to complain of his way of doin’ tilings it can get out One thing I can ttil you. missus: them two downstairs is a rum couple.’ I sat at the table and wrote every word he said as well as I could. I do like to be exact!” “Dear me, dear me, are you sure he

said couple?” gasped Mrs. Pepper At this point the door was flung open and Miss Tinpenny came staggering Into the room, threw herself into the morris chair and began to sob. “It’s dreadful.” gasped Miss Tinpenny. “If I can compose my nerves I will tell you all—l spoke to the chambermaid about —” “The horror of the ground floor,” supplied Mrs. Pepper. “Yes, just it —horror is the word,” continued Miss Tinpenny. “I spoke to Matilda, the chambermaid. I gave her my second best satchel and asked her to tell me all about Miss Burkholder.” “Matilda Cheerfully answered, ‘Oh, she’s all right, but queer. Her rooms are full of beetles and bugs pinned on papers. She is making human nature studies or something. She takes all her meals in her room. The waitress says her trays are something dreadful when they go back to the pantry. We all think that she. feeds that horrid object she keeps shut up in her batk

room.’ ” z "Oh. did she say that?” gasped Mrs. Fish. "Just wait till I tell you all.” wailed Miss Tinpenny. “When Matilda left me I think I fainted, for the "first thing I knew I was stumbling along toward the baths —hot mineral water often revives me. Can you believe me when I tell you that I heard a plaintive, beseeching call of ‘Help, help!’ coming up from Miss Burkholder’s rooms, and then in reply a horrid, snappy voice said, ‘Now’ shut up.’ ” “Oh, Miss Tinpenny," said all the ladles in a breath, “how dreadful"!” “We must decide what to do at once.” announced Mrs. Dunvegan. Then the ladies rose in a body and clattered their cups and saucers on the table, just as Mrs. Dunvegan’s ancestors might have thrown down their swords, then formed into a body and marched along the hall. When they reached Miss Burkhold-, er’s door Mrs. Pepper knocked. There was a great rummaging and shuffling inside, then the door opened and Miss Burkholder looked with astonishment at her visitors through large, heavily framed spectacles. — — Mrs. Pepper bowed. “We have come to call upon you. Miss Burkholder,” she announced. “Oh, dear me. this Is sudden. Pm not prepared for visitors; could you call another time?” “No,” rang out Mrs. Dunvegan’s voice. “We have come today and will not be put off. We want to know what goes on in your back room.” “Well, come in, then, and look to your heart’s content. But.” adder. Miss Burkholder savagely, “I think I told you quite plainly, ladles, that I was busy and did not want to be bothered dressing, talking and fooling my time when I wanted to study. I am sure I cannot offer you chairs. You see everything Is filled with my specimens; I even had to put the beetles on the bed." “Never mind chairs." said Mrs. Looney kindly, evidently relenting, “just let us take a peep Into your back room.” “What shall I do?” groaned the poor lady In evident distress. “Really I would sooner you did not.” • “We demand you to open that prison house,” squealed Miss Tinpenny, almost on the verge of hysterics. “In the name of humanity we demand it.” Mrs. Pepper now went boldly forward and opened the door. On a table by the window, in a gilt cage, sat a parrot in solemn meditatation. For a moment he tolerantly eyed the body of militant females, then called: “Help, I want to go home!” The ladles rushed in a body from Miss Burkholder's domains. As they reached the front hall they nearly knocked over a man with crutches, who had Just come in the front door. The Clerk called from the desk: “Hello, Sandy Malone; you back again? Did you have a successful trip?” Pell mell up the stairs, rushed the excited ladles of the Rest Cure. Mrs. Pepper and Mrs. Dunvegan on ahead. Then came Mrs. Tyroll helping little Mrs. Fish, while in the rear Mrs. Looney struggled to drag the half-fainting form of Miss Tinpenny, and through Miss Burkholder’s open door came the strangely human cry. “Help, help, I want to go home. Now shut up.”

LEGEND OF SIR GALAHAD

Tennyson’s Hero of “The Holy Grail," the Noblest and Purest Knight of the Round Table.

Sir Galahad of Tennyson’s “The Holy Grail,” was the noblest and purest knight of the Round table. The title was invented by Walter Map In the “Quest of the Grail.” Morley, in his “English Writers," says Sir Galahad was the son Of Map’s L’Ancelot and Elaine. The son and namesake of Joseph of Arlmathea, Bishop Joseph, to whom the holy dish was bequeathed. first Instituted the order of the Round table. The initiated at their festivals sat as apostle knights round the table, with the Holy Grail in the midst leaving one seat vacant which was reserved for a descendant of Joseph, named Galahad. Whatever man else attempted to sit in the place of Galahad the earth swallowed. It was called therefore the Siege (seat) Perilous. When men became sinful, the Holy Grail, visible only to pure eyes, disappeared. On Its recovery depended the honor and peace of England, but only Sir Galahad, who war at the appointed time brought to thr knights by a mysterious old man clothed in white, and placed in the Siege Perilous —only the pure Sir Galahad succeeded in the quest

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, IND.

The DRAPERS of LONDON

DERIVING its name from the French “Drapperie,” meaning cloth work, the Drapers „ company, as early as 1180, has been associated with the textile trade of London; and has numbered many distinguished men among its members since the proud day, in the reign of Henry I, when Henry FltzAlwTn, member of the company, became London’s first lord mayor, which office he continued to hold for 24 years. Between 1331 and 1714 no less than 53 drapers were thus honored, xays the Christian Science Monitor.* Not only did Fitz-Alwin bring civic dignity to the company, but he left it all his lands in St. Mary Bothawe. Cloth was made in England from very early days, but from Saxon times onward the chief seat of the industry was The Netherlands, whose weavers obtained the raw wool from England. Edward in, anxious to foster it as a British trade, forbade both the export of English wool, and the Import of cloth, and Invited balloon weavers to settle In England. He gave the first charter tb the Drapers company in 1364, to enable it to enforce the statutes relating to the sale of cloths.

Growth of the Industry. The industry had so rapidly Increased by 1385 that Sir Nicholas Brembre, mayor of London, Issued an order separating drapery from tailory and the weaving business. Busy times were the fairs of St. Bartholomew, West Smithfield and Southwark, where an enormous trade in textiles was done; and which the drapers and the merchant tailors attended for their trade search, so as to keep sharp guard over Illicit practices, such as cloth of unlawful width, or short measure. Edward 111 is credited with presenting the “Drapers’ Ell” to the company, and frequent iterhs in their accounts are disbursements for new “yards," or “companies standards,” and, also for cases In which to keep them. _ By the reign of Henry VI the drapers had become so powerful that the king granted them their charter of incorporation in 1438, which, with their six other chart A-s, Is still preserved. It is a very splendid affair, beautifully Illuminated with a headpiece of gold, and colors of the finest work, and is in a perfect state of preservation. A Tilt With Royalty. Royal extortions and levies do not appear to have affected the drapers as much as some of the other companlesr but in 1521 we read of great activity being displayed by them, in conjunction with the “divers auncyant felishippes” who assembled at “Frers Austyns” to discuss how they could either avoid or lessen the heavy contribution demanded of them by Henry Vin .toward the fitting out of five ships for the explorer, Sebastian Cabot. With great bravery they informed the king that he had no legal right to extort their contributions;, and that it was “a sore adventure to jopard ve shipps with men and goods unto the said island (Newfoundland) upon the singular trust of one man,” but finally a peremptory message from “my Lord Cardynall” brought the truculent spirits into due submission. Keen business men; were these stalwart drapers, for not only do their records contain many entries illustrative of their trade activities. but they show that the management of their charities was equally alert. In 1527 thev entered into a prolonged dispute with the Crutched Friars, regarding the boundaries of the ground purchased for almshouses by Sir John Milborn. and of the keeping up by the friars of certain observances in his memory. T Pageants and Processions. If the drapers displayed energy in business and kindly works, they were also always to. the fore In the civic pleasures which abounded in the middle ages; and of their “ridings,” pageants by land and water, their “midsummer walks" and their processions, when one of their number .chanced to become lord mayor, there are many quaint' and interesting records. On the occasion of the marriage of Henry TH and Elizabeth, we hear of the drapers, with the others, going

The Garden a. One Drapers' Hall.

The beginning of the United States navy was made with the passing of an act by congress in March, 1794, authorizing the building of six war* -

forth upon the Thames, “at her coming from Greenwich by water,? tn “Barges freshly furnished with Banners and Streamers of Silke, rechely beaton and bagges of their Crafts.” At these times the barges of the Drapers company were decked with cloth of blue or red, and their trumpeters were ‘resplendent in crimson hats, while their floating banners were adorned with silken fringe “beaten with gold.” Of their land processions, probably the grandest was that in honor of their mayor, Sir Robert Clayton, in 1679, which included a moving stage, and was “dignified with divers delightful varieties of Presenters, with speeches, songs and actions, properly and punctually described, all set forth at the proper cost and charges of the worshipful Company of Drapers.” Catastrophe of 1666. The ancient hall of the drapers was in St. Swlthins Lane, but in 1541 the company ended its negotiations with Henry VIII for “Cromwell House,” the site of the present hall, which had come to the crown through the attainder of Cromwell, earl of Essex The great fire of 1666 stopped its northward fury at Drapers’ hall, but great damage was done to the buildings, and the unfortunate clerk of those days, whose house had been demolished, had to take refuge in the Garden house, which, until the fire, had been the house of Mr. Miners, the beadle. As it remains today, the Drapers’ hall displays all the tempered richness of an English country house; and the magnificent suites of rooms, two of which are adorned with perfectly preserved pieces of Gobelin tapestry, and whose walls are hung with splendid pictures, betoken the hospitality of this ancient company. But the feature which lingers most in memory is the quiet and ancient garden, with its shimmering trees, including aged mulberries —from one of which a dish of fruit can still be plucked—its brighthued flower beds, and Its leaden tanks filled with flowers. - And though in the very midst of the city’s greatest turmolL it still looks so reposeful that it is easy to remember those other days when “my Lord Ambassador from France” walked the plaisaunce in the September of 1552, or when one Robert Ratford, the gardener, complained to the court “that by drying of naperye clothes in the Drapers garden, the knolls and borders of erbys therein are destroyed.” which resulted in prompt measures being taken to suppress the practice. Benevolences. Today the Drapers company is actively engaged in administering its trusts, and in promoting education and charitable work in many different wavs, by means of its corporate funds. Among the various benefactions may be mentioned its annual scholarships and exhibitions of students in the five chief branches of the textile trade, in their respective districts, and its annual grant of £I,OOO toward the chair of agriculture at the University of Cambridge. But the most interesting of its activities is the East London college, with which it is most intimately associated, and Mhich is a university college, giving a full course in natural science, engineering, or art, for the small sum of £lO 10s. The students, both men and women, are mainly drawn from the working classes. The company has expended fully £250.000 upon this college, and contributes a large sum annually toward its maintenance. Its work in connection with both the college and the "People’s palace” is marked by most enthusiastic and personal interest, and the drapers are justly proud that this college is the only one in the British isles where an aeronautical department has been established.

Beginning of Our Navy.

Like Purpose

Some persons covet secrets as a spendthrift covets money—for pup poses of circulation.—Boston Transcript

VARIETY IS THE WORD IN WRAPS

Women Enjoy as Much Latitude in Their Coats and Capes as in Dresses.

MORE SILK AND SATIN SHOWN

Display of Expensive Fabrics More Pronounced Than Ever Before — Lace Garments Novelty and Vogue *of Season. We may enjoy just as much latitude in the choice of our wraps as in dresses. Today, writes a Paris fashion correspondent, women do not follow as blindly in fashions as they formerly difl. A few years ago two or three styles took precedence over all others each season; consequently we saw our dresses, hats and wraps duplicated at every turn. Now women refuse to accept a fashion unless they find it suitable and becoming, and they absolutely demand a great deal from which to choose. For this reason » much more is offered them. The taffeta wrap for both daytime and evening is very smart, but we see quite as many satin coats and capes shown by the leading designers and worn by the best dressed women. While nothing can ever take the place of the good, substantial cloth wrap for general wear, there are more silk and satin coats seen this year than ever before. With the vogue for lace, it is but logical la ce wraps. Callot is responsible for the transparent lace wrap, one of the greatest extravagances as well as one of the greatest novelties of the season. Her models In nearly every instance are plaited at some point. Wraps From Other Days. Nets and veilings, as well as chiffons, are used to make transparent wraps. When worn over a bright colored frock or a gown with a huge, bright-colored sash, the effect. IS very beautiful, for the wrap serves to shadow the frock. The sashes and other bright colored garnitures are lovely, showing through the nets. The great dressmakers do not confine themselves to black for these wraps, but use very bright colors. The bright colored ones appear often over black dresses. ' . There is much in the way of inspiration to be had from very old-fash-ioned wraps. The charm of other days is faithfully mirrored today in hiplength and shoulder capes composed of tiers of lace —preferably Chantilly. Modern lace capes are made over bright colored linings to be in keeping with the demand for cheerful hues In clothes. Our great-grand-mothers would have been very much surprised—perhaps shocked—had they known that during the hot midsummer days of 1920 replicas of their lace capes, heavily trimmed with fur, were to be worn. In olden times women dressed according to the seasons and would have thought It a huge joke tc have a filmy midsummer cape literally dripping fur. A little fur used as a trimming for lace Is really charming. A great deal of fur is

Black Satin Coat With Drapery in Grecian Effect—The Draped Portion May Be Detached and the Goat Worn Without It

equally charming but rather uncomfortable on days when the thermometer flirts with the 100-mark. Bright Colors Shine Through Lace. I have just seen a cape formed by three full flounces of black Chantilly posed on a foundation of French blue satin. The cape ends at the waistline in front, but is several inches longer at the back. A bread band of sealskin forms a collar which stands straight up and well out from the neck continuing down one side of the front, which wraps around the wear-

er In surplice fashion so that there Is a wide band of fur diagonally across the front. Placing lace and other transparent materials over bright colors appears, too, In dresses. For Instance, an afternoon dress shows a foundation of flame colored chiffon with a waistline blouse and tunic skirt of brown chiffon. The tunic is open at each side to reveal a cascade of ecru lace, and the bodice fs overhung with the' same lace in panel effect both back and front. The frock has a

Here Is Shown One of Callpt’s Transparent Coats, Inspired by the OldFashioned Lace Capes of Our Grandmother’s Day.

broad brown ribbon sash fringed at the ends and hanging several Inches below the skirt, which id very short. Models Agree on Puffy Collars. While most of the lacy things are short, wraps may be of any length. In lines they are extremely full —this Is especially true of those of taffetas — or wrap closely about the figure and are as tight as can be about the ankles. These latter characteristics apply more especially to satin models. One thing they agree upon, however, that is the big, puffy collar. Linings are very handsome. And as the preference appears to be for wraps of brown and black, color is Introduced in the lining, which is made to show by some subtleness of cut or mode of draping. A long evening wrap of brown and gold brocade has an opening down the entire length of the back, revealing a bright blue lining. The back portions are open to a depth of about three inches at the neck, but overlap each other at the hem. Each side is edged with brown fur and the wrap has a big, puffy coilair of the material encircled by three narrow rows of the fur. A perfectly enchanting full-length wrap of soft black satin is lined throughout and collared with flamecolored marabou. When the darkhaired woman who wore this at a fashionable restaurant threw it back over her chair It had the appearance of a huge, feathery rug. The coloring of the marabou was marvelous and made a striking contrast to the black satin. In design the cape was nothing more than a long straight cloak; the interest lay in the lining. Harem Effect In Satin Cape. A black cire satin cape that Renee has sAt to America from her famous house on the Champs Elysees is trimmed, on the sleeves, at the bottom and on the sides, which are slit, with monkey fur. It is lined with bright red satin which shows in a careless fashion, according to the manner in which the garment Is wrapped about the body. The feet may be slipped through the slits to give a harem effect. Taffeta capes are made both with and without linings. A handsome lining, however, gives an important appearance. When lined, some arrangement of drapery Is made so that the Inside of the cape is visible. A new taffeta cape is made with a deep yoke that comes well down oyer the shoulders. The top of the main portion is pin tucked and attached to ,the yoke. This, of course, makes a voluminous garment Great loops reaching to the feet form the sleeves. They are faced with gorgeous green and silver brocade. The yoke is topped by a collar which is simply a straight piece of the material doubled and gathered at the neckline. There Is another wrap In which ths frqnt continues oven the shoulders Uki a scarf, in this way forming a hall sleeve, and is caught together at th« back to make a hood, which is weight* ed by a heavy tassel. Black crepe ds chine is the fabric chosen for tbit model. It is embroidered in pearl gray silk and lined with gray erupt de chine.