Evening Republican, Volume 23, Number 154, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 26 June 1920 — BOTH LOOPS AND SASHES IN VOGUE [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

BOTH LOOPS AND SASHES IN VOGUE

French Dressmakers Give Novelty and Cachet to Their Models for Milady’s Wear. WEIRD IND FAWSTIC LOOK Some Dreeses Display Marked Eccentricity; Knife and Accordion-Plait-ed Flounced Skirts Have Gained Approval. Although styles at the present time are of such extremely diverse types, observes a leading fashion writer, several of the French dressmakers have attracted attention through definite notes which give both novelty and cachet to their models. Cheruit with her loops has scored a success; Madeleine et Madeleine with their sashes and bloused bodices and Jenny with her plaits. At first it was impossible to say to what extent the loop draperies would be accepted. Owing to their somewhat fanciful character and the assembling of two and three colors in one dress, they were inappropriate for street wear. They have, however, been adopted for indoor an d evening clothes,-and in these they have proved more successful than was expected. While giving a round silhouette to the skirt, these draperies do not take away the slenderness’ of line. They are in no wise related to the hip extended skirts, but at the same time they are bouffant, light and airy looking.

Weird and Fantastic Dresses. Cheruit launched the colored chiffon panel or loop drapery in alternating shades of green and blue draped on a foundation of black taffeta. Some ofthese dresses have a weird and fantastic look, as is attested by one having the short foundation skirt cut in deep points and bordered with silver braid. Over this fall the loops and panels of chiffon in green and blue, alternating to cover the full W’idth of the skirt. At the back are two trailing panels of chiffon, one of green and one of blue. The sleeves are made in the same eccentric fashion. This dress seems quite fantastic for general wear. Cheruit calls it robe de diner, tres habille. It remains to be seen if the average woman will consider herself well dressed in such a gown. The same designer makes other loop dresses that are wearable and charming. In these, too, the novel feature is the combination of blue and green chiffon over a black taffeta foundation so that the shadow of a slim silhouette is retained, despite the multitudinous loops of billowy blue and green. A dress of type has also the charming semi-fitted, uncorseted bodice so characteristic of Cherult’s style. Dark Blue Taffeta, Green Cascades. In direct contrast to the looped dresses, are draped polonaise or semifitted gowns with cascading draperies or lovely sashlike jabots of lace or net flowing from one side. One of the most pronounced novelties in these is a dark blue taffeta with the flowing cascades of a brilliant green. The entire surface of the

dress Is appllqued with big bunches of fruit formed of highly colored kid imitating rosy cheeked apples, fat pears, cherries, plums and grapes. There is surely color enough in this dress to satisfy the most futuristic taste. This dress follows the lines noted in some of the early models which showed a/ s slight change from the vertical to the slanting lines, thus giving

the figure a somewhat vaselike proportion. It is most interesting to observe the prominent manner in which this type stands out beside the short balloonlike skirts that have the indorsement of the best dressmakers and the equally short, scanty ones that do not lack authoritativeness. Dresses With Ribbon Sashes. This season has brought forth nothing more charming than the dresses with big ribbon sashes, the bow of which stands out in bouffant effect almost like a pannier drapery. To Madeleine et Madeleine must be given the

credit of introducing, the sash and the low hip .girdle as a definite and positive note throughout their entire collection of clothes. A delightful dress from this house is developed in case au lait chiffon. It is girdled with a ribbon in gold and brown lame; the ribbon, stiff and stately, contrasting with the softness of the chiffon, which falls in graceful cascades at the left side of the skirt. Scattered over the sleeves and surrounding the collarless neck is a delicate embroidery of gold threads. The most elaborate and notable evening dresses are in Egyptian style with marvelous embroideries. Much has been written of the Egyptian fashions. When they were introduced everybody wondered whether they would meet approval. Most people thought them very extreme. Only a few had the foresight to recognize their tremendous possibilities, but they had the backing of a number of important houses. Simplicity Wins Signal Victory. Jenny’s simple models, with knife and accordion plaited flounced skirts, have gained much approval. These have caught the fancy of both the Parisienne and the American. There Is every indication that plaited flounces will be worn for some time to come. Flounces, especially when plaited, make a dress or suit appear very youthful. This is no doubt the chief reason why they have become almost too popular. But after all, everything that is young looking and strikingly becoming Is widely copied. So we may take our choice as to whether we shall wear clothes that fire pretty enough to have won perhaps too general favor or be exclusive at the expense of missing much that is appealingly pretty and feminine in dress. In comparison with the sumptuousness that has prevailed in dress since the war ended, one view's with joy the little tailored suits with plaited flounces. Jenny makes an adorable one with a box jacket held in slightly at the -waistline by a narrow belt ending in an Egyptian ornament. It has a plain coat collar and revers and a simple, full length coat sleeve. The skirt has a shallow yoke and two sideplaited flounces.

Case au Lait Chiffon Frock, Em broidered in Brown and Sashed With Gold and Brown Ribbon.

Draped Princess Dress of Navy Blue Taffeta Appliqued With Bunches of Fruit Made of Bright Colored Kid.