Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 313, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 31 December 1919 — Plain Hats Top New Paris Coats [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Plain Hats Top New Paris Coats

Panne Velvet Favored Material; Pronounced Vogue Is Use of • Monkey Fur. DRESSES MATCH COAT LINING '• / 1 Latest French Fashion Bids Fair to Become One of the Extravagances fdr Afternoon and Evening 4 Toilettes. . « " In our grandmothers’ days it took years to make a fashion —now one season sees a new style established, writes a Paris fashion correspondent. The eyele of fashion turns so rapidly nowadays and in its revombg reveals so many types of clothes that every woman has plenty of opportunity of seeing her own particular taste represented. There is, not a fancy in dress that we may not some time or another indulge to the fullest. Last season the woman who loved gay headgear might satisfy her taste for bright colors and quantities of trinfining to her heart’s content; this season she who prefers more subdued hats will have an equal opportunity of shopping‘for her favorites with the certainty that fashion has provided them for her in abundance. The smartly dressed woman wears a black hat this winter, and let us thank heaven and the modistes that there is at least one article of dress that we may buy with the comforting assurance that we are being economical — the black hat is an economy, for it may be worn with a frock of any color. Following closely on the heels of the fashion for black hats are tho§e of tete de negre and new copper color known as cuivre or chaudron. The great demand, however, is- for black hats. . Velvet Favorite Material for Sailors. Panne velvet is the favorite material from which to evolve medium sailors with shaped brims and smartly draped crowns, while plush and satin are draped into round turbans, some of which are set to a shaped head band to give the effect of a brim. These are more becoming thpl the brimless turban. A summer ravorite that continues in. popularity and will not hesitate to makeiits appearance wherever smartly dressed women are congregated on cold, crisp winter afternoons is the large Chantilly lace hat. Sometimes, as a concession to Jack Frost, it has a velvet crown above its lacy brim, although it frequently is entirely transparent. . . A pronounced millinery the use of monkey fur as a trimming, this fur, to a very great extent, taking the place of aigrette and paradise. It is used alone and also combined with ostrich feathers. Black hats having ostrich feather motifs in the shape of leaves show these feathers alternating with long-haired patches of monkey fur. While this combijjsJion perhaps does not sound interesting, it looks well. Large hats of black panne ,have brim facings' and brim covers made in this way. To keep the brim from looking thick or fringy it is often faced with a layer of tulle, which holds the trimming Jn,place and makes a soft and becoming frame for the face. Draped Beret Popular With Milliners. The draped beret still continues to be tremendously popular with all Paris milliners. It is almost entirely without trimming, but the crown is so beautifully draped that no trimming is

needed. The head band is usually folded to fond a clothlike brim; sometimes it is made to appear like a visor. These hats are usually of black velvet, or ««*, although metal doth Is used

Attractive Tailored Dress, Cape and Muff of Gray Velvet Bordered With Chevra de Mongolia of a- Blue Gray Shade. - / ' V-

for some elaborate ones. The dark ones embroidered in metal threads are very smart. These latter, however, are so expensive that one feels it an extravagance to buy them. Yet an y woman at all'gifted in draping a fabric could easily make one herself. The embroidery is nothing more than a running stitch done in a fine gold or silver thread. ’ While some of the Paris milliners strongly advocate the veil-trimmed bat. others do not show the veil at all. Veils have always;, been favorite trimmings in the hands of Maria Guy; with them shfe achieves beautiful effects. Recently she developed an oriental turbaji from a huge tulle scarf printed in two colors, one end of the scarf forming the turban, while the other

end draped around the neck or over the shoulders. Suzzane Talbot also makes these turbans from big tulle scarfs, but uses the scarfs in solid colorings and .borders them with ostrich or silk looped fringe. New Wraps Have High Collars. Practically all of the new wraps»ave very high, neck-enveloping collars. Little more than a woman’s eyes are visible if she wears a hat with these high collars. Separate fur collars with matching muffs are shown in this high style, for wear with afternoon dresses, while tailored suits have chin-envelop-ing fur collars as part of their trimming. It is quite remarkable how the slender silhouette is emphasized by these chin-enclosing collars. Their use gives a distinctly new outline to the figure in-a very clever The low-lying collars, so long a feature of our clothes, would, if used with the, widened hip, tend to give the entire figure a broadened appearance. As this would be anything but attractive, we have the high collar. Nearly all of these standing collars are made of long-haired pelts, notably fox and “chevre-de-niongolie,” as the fut of the now fashionable Mongolian goat is called. Pure white fox "collars made in the standing style are worn with elaborate afternoon dresses of black velvet? cross, fox collars trim dull metal crepe dresses and even the priceless'silver fox is shorn of his head and tail .tp make these straight, round upstanding collars; all of which goes to show how far fashion reaches. Even the beasts of the forest must conform thereto. J Corresponds With Lining of Coats. A Paris fashion which 'bids fair to become immensely popular is that of having a dress made to> correspond exactly with the lining of the coat or mantle with which it is worn. The scheme ,is carried out in both afternoon and evening toilettes. This plan of having a dress to match «very coat lining or a coat lined to match every dress bids fair to become one of the marked extravagances of the season. One of the prettiest developments of this idea is a simple crepe de chine dress made , almost in lingerie style apd worn with a length coat lined with , the same crepe de chine that fonps the dress. A smart costume seen recently consisted of a brown duvetea-epat, cut on very simple lines, and crepe de chirje frock whtch'umtched tbe lining of the coat, The frock made with side-pleated flounces, was ornamented with drawn threads and hand embroidery. The coat when opened, with its exactly matching lining of the copper-colored crepe de chine, also adorned With the drawbwork and band< embroidery, gave the! appearance of the unfolding of the wings of agreat moth or copper-colored'^utter^y.

Cheruit Model Showing Use of Direc, toire in Two-Piece Suits. Green Velours and Moleskins Ars Combined to Make This Suit.