Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 266, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 November 1919 — Furs Almost Beyond Reach [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Furs Almost Beyond Reach

Of. course we are appalled at the tremendous' cost of even the smallest pieces of fur, but when the- manufacturers tell us that the cost of making Is equal practically to the cost of the skins we must bow to the Inevitable peculiar conditionsAfhlch exist in the fur world, we may look for a .great vogue in the plush, velvet, astrachan and other materials which may be called “near” fur, as they give the same degree of warmth without costing anything like so much. Even pony skins are likely to return, it is hinted, and the so-called caracul alsof writes Martha Goode Anderson in the New Sun. It will be recognized at a glance that many of the new garments are really triumphs of the furmakers’ art, for the soft and exquisite grace of many of the moleskin wraps would along prove this assertion if those of no other pelts’were considered. Because of the small size of the soft and velvety mole the makers of wraps of this rodent have achieved a beautiful result by blocking the skins in squares, w’hich presents a handsomelyshaded surface. This effect is attained by the use of hot irons which mark the skins in squares or rows, running now and then along the bottom of the long dolmans and capes. One of the handsomest of the moleskin wraps is made up in a dolman effect by outlining a yoke across the back. From underneath this yoke the back of the wrap falls in rather flaring lines quite to the edge of the skirt. An enormous collar of the shawl type folds over the yoke in the back and extends quite to the w’aistline in front, | where it fastens huge fur but- f ton. There are no. sleeves, but long 1

and deep slits at the sides for the arms. Inside the lining is of the handsomest and most beautiful of flesh-pink brocaded satin, with ample pockets fitted at the sides. Of course such a sumptuous wrap is Intended for only sumptuous wearing, so to speak. Its cost is close to SI,OOO, while a companion coat of mink as sSJwa 000. There is a story going the rounds of a certain newly rich lady who showed her hew string of pearls to a wealthy' woman whose wealth had been with ffier long enough for her to be entirely accustomed to it. Said the newest rich lady: “My pearls cost $200,000. *What did yours cost, ’ Mrs. Brown?” The answer came like a flash and a revelation, “I should hate to have mine look an oyster in the face.” Rage for Fox Skins Persists. To return ndw to our skins —furs, I mean. It is astonishing the way fox holds on. First we have a season when the white stoles are in such demand it seems impossible to meet it, then comes the wonderful cross fox. with its rich blend of yellow and brown, and then the no. less beautiful pointed and 'silver skins. The rage for these beautiful fur pieces is just as insistent now as it was last fall, and again this spring. The long hgir of the fox makes it particularly becoming to all and the many shades in which it can be bought have much to do with the demand. Black lynx, too. is a fur which never seems to los§ its popularity. It, too, has the long and verv spft and silky hair of the fox. Mink, with its shorter hair, has always seemed to he particularly suited to, elderly women, but when it is combined, as it is this year. With deep rolling collars of seal or ermine or dyed skunk or some fur with a

softer texture and a deeper color, nothing makes a more exquisite wrap. There seems to be a determined effort to produce a demand for monkey fur. It goes well as a trimming for other garments, as I have recently observed it itsed fringellke on a voluminous and gorgeous evening cape of black satin, faced Inside with orchid satis veiled in the same colored chiffon. It is said that monkey skins have almost vanished from the market, and that nutria will probably disappear also, so great Ims been the demand for both of these. Sports Coats In Fur. Last year muskrat came to be so much in demand as a winter sports coat that the price was pushed almost as high as seal. The muskrat coats are again in high favor for general utility wear, such as motoring, traveling, skating and such allied uses. The skins are blocked and matched with great perfection and made up into whole garments as nearly tailored as a fur coat can be. These are particularly esteemed <>y younger women, as are the short jackets of gray squirrel. The latter are very smart indeed when made up into the hip length styles and Tintrimmed by any other fur. Children’s coats are especially in demand in this fur and some are also made up in the brown squirrel. As to the smaller wraps, the little coatees which were brought out last season are again to be much used, for the fashion makers are kind enough to permit the use of a last year’s model this year, thus doing away with the necessity of paying enormous prices for the making over. The Eton jacket is the newest in the coatee models. The cape coatc-es are of the same belted models used last year, fitted in at the back and

flaring and full in crfpe effect in front They, too, have the high, rolling shawl collars seen on all the new fall models. The demand seems to be great est for the darker furs such as skunk, seal, sable, dyed muskrat and dyed squirrel, but as I said abpve these are just as often seen in a combination with one of the domestic furs in nab uisl colors In selecting the short jackets i» ‘must be remembered that nearly all are fitted with the high choker collars and-whereas one sees the shawl and rolling cdllars on the longer coats, and dolmans. and capes, the sfraighta round and high, tight collar seems to be preferred on the shorter coat. This of course permits the use of the extra stole if desired and is therefore advantageous. Smaller Pieces Are Combined. As to the demand for the smaller pieces, the one, two and three skins are made up in mink, sable, skunk and fox, though the latter is quite sufficient in one piece. The. • beauty of skunk cannot be denied. In one instance it it put together in a straight strip of the skins to make a stole at least a yard and a half longjand half a yard wide. The skins, perfectly matched and blended, are marked by the hot irons where they are put together, and this sort of marking forma a good effect in the-whole piece. The ends are finished with, many tails sewed on like tassels. As to muffs, they are quaint and round and small, like the Kate Greenaway models. The .fashion of using muffs disappeared somewhat last year when the fur dolman. and capes and long stoles entered. It was found that the long sides of the cape served as cover for the hands and gave sufficient warmth. However, muffi are to bemuchuaH this year. . ' '

TRAVELING COAT OF ENGLISH BEIGE, BISSUE-FUR COLLAR. MOST ATTRACTIVE FOR FALL WEAR.