Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 219, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 10 September 1919 — Rich Costumes Rule in Paris [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Rich Costumes Rule in Paris

Elaborate Materials and Original Designs Mark Reaction From War’s Tension. - v CAPES IN HEIGHT OF FAVOR No Doubt That Picturesque Wraps Will Be a Feature of Autumn Styles—Day and Evening Gowns Much Alike. The Redrern model I have sketched this week is very novel and original In design and yet it is comparatively elmple. writes Idalia do Villiers, Paris correspondent of the Boston Globe. This robe, intended for afternoon wear, is typical of present-day styles. It possesses all the elements that go to make up a successful toilette of this wonderful year. In the first place the general outline of the little gown rather suggests an evening costume. The neck Is cut round, in generous fashion, and the sleeves are very short and transparent, yet this is the kind of dress that is worn at the big race meetings and at all outdoor festivities, accompanied by a tqg picture hat and—more- probably than not —by short gauntlet glovis. It is, in fact, a genuine 1919 model. The material of this costume is black and white foulard—large white npots on a black ground. There is a

suggestion of pannier draperies at the sides, and at the hem the suppteTßaP' terial is so cleverely arranged that it gives something of the Turkish trouser effect. Then the waistline is long, and what the French call “vague,” that is to say, it is loose and ultranatural. I recently saw a very similar dress worn at an Auteuil race meeting, but the material was midnight blue charmeuse, with a dainty chemisette of flesh-pink orgadie muslin and a thick blue fringe on the draped tunic. Strikingly OlifllftM Cusiumer The neck was cut round, almost like the Redfern model, but the sleeves were even shorter. Very longr pale gray suede gloves were worn and an Immense pale gray felt hat, lined with black chip and trimmed with a cluster of black satin water lilies. It was an amazingly original costume, taking it altogether. Nearly all the best race gowns of this season have closely resembled evening dresses, that is to say, they have had decollete necks, short sleeves and filmy draperies. It is not at all easy to distinguish between day and evening gowns just now unless one makes a careful study of materials. It is not considered correct to wear metallic brocades in the daytime nor paillettes unless the latter be skillfully intermingled with fine silk embroidery, but very many of the best and most expensive race dresses are richly trimmed with jet and steel fringes and with embroideries worked In jet steel and moonlight beads. It is as I have said a wonderful year,-, and it must be admitted ah extravagant one. Never have I known money spent so freely as at the present moment, and by the mpst unexpected people. As to the prices of the Paris restaurants— especially those situated In the Bois de Boulogne—it is enough to make one gasp with horror; one has Indeed to think, not twice, but many times, before inviting a few friends to afternoon tea at an outdoor restaurant. Paris Profiteers Busy. Of course, it is true that prices are high everywhere, and for everything, but that does not account for the utbelng asked «n Paris for simple articles of food and of dress. People insist that the mischief has been done by rich young soldiers back from the front, who have not hesitated to make “a big splash.” There may be some troth in this, but -itdynot aH the truth? some people are making huge profits over the necesai-

ties of the hour, and a day of reckoning will surely come. At the big race meetings we have seen a great many picturesque wraps, which suggest delightful things for the autumn. The quaint Manon cape, full and voluminous, is still a strong favorite. It is made of satin or pean de sole and lined throughout--with- the—softest duvetyn, in some pale neutral tint, or a vivid color, such as rostf'Dubarrv or leaf green. i-; - . = A black Manon cape, lined with pale beige duvetyn, is a precious possession.lt is warm, picturesque in line, becoming and cozy. Thq Barla»_iennes, especially our smart young actresses, wear these loose cloaks witl\ immense grace and charm. They have a cleyer way of drawing them in at the hem to give the trouser effect shown in the Redfern sketch.' Gorgeous Evening Wraps. For Biarritz and Deauville, for chilwith bright rose or green velours de laine, and a special feature is made of the big Manon hood. These cloaks wili be worn in the daytime, too, Over lace and linen dresses, the loose fronts thrown back and the cape hood falling off the shoulders. I am sending you a sketch of the latest rue de la Taix millinery, specially designed for the firSTrace meeting at Deauville. It shows a really exquisite hat created by Talbot. The shape was directoire and the hat was made of black lacquered straw, with deep rose Stantung to line

the brim. The trimming was cunningly arranged. —A~~long,-~wrde-,—bhtcte-satia--ribbon had wreath of exquisite pink water lilies attached to it in front. This ribbon was passed around the higfi crown of the hat, tied loosely at the back and then allowed to fall in long, loose ends over the shoulders. Popular Style of Trimming. This style of trimming is a Talbot specialty. I have seen it repeated with various flowers, and with flowers and fruits mixed. The directoire shapes are more fashiomtblerthfra ever?theyhave been found almost universally becoming and they supply a picturesque headdress which is exactly suitable for wearing with the present-day dresses of rather fussy outline. Many of the newest hats show long floating ribbons, in velvet or satin, and it may be said that the floating veil is more in favor than ever, especially for seaside and country wear; we do not see it very often in town. White chip hats covered with Shantung or tussor are going to be the craze of the season. For morning wear,.' to accompany simple tussor tailored suits, I have seen white chip sailor shapes covered on the outer side with tussor and trimmed with two large white wings.