Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 204, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 23 August 1919 — SMOCK FAD IS ADDED BY ALL [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

SMOCK FAD IS ADDED BY ALL

And now enters the smock —that is, it is entering everybody’s wardrobe. At first, writes a fashion correspondent, this curious fad was followed only by those of artistic or gardening temperament or those who loved the most advanced and different sort of thing. The smock has undergone so many modifications from its first appearance as the typical peasant garment, which it really is, that it is in point of fact hardly recognizable. Its name, too, has changed, for whereas in the beginning it was just a smock, now it is known as the “overblouse,” and the chemise blouse, and the Cossack coat. The gardening period in our recent lives is believed to be responsible for the acceptance of this type of blouse. The smock is so Comfortable with its loose free lines that it became at once just the sort of thing needed for this sort of work, especially since it

looked just as well with trousers as with skirts —a thing which could not be said of all waists or blouses. Of course trousers were ar part of the gardening days, and while they have retired at least from general service as far as woman’s need for them goes, the smock remains, glorified beyond its most humble followers’ recognition. Of great beauty are those overblouses of midnight blue.voile closely pailleted all over with round silver disks and held in place with a thick cord of silver threads. This is to be worn with a skirt of silk or sport satin or gabardine and makes a pleasing costume. The printed chiffons’ have been extensively used for the type of blouse. One seldom sees them without a belt of some sort, generally a heavy silken cord which encircles the waist, and loops in front with heavy tassels or fringe. If the smock is worn under the coat it is often left free and unbelted, but rarely is it seen now worn in this way without one’s coat or sweater. The smock of the unbelted variety has a decidedly dressing sacque look, but so many women understand so cleverly the adaptation of every mode that we are spared an avalanche of ladies apparently abroad in their breakfast coats or boudoir jackets.

A Lovely Smock Blouse. One of the most beautiful of all the smock type of blouses seen lately is of finest indestructible white voile, braided all over in fine white silkbraid in circle design. The bottom of the blouse has a hem of white silk faced back onto the blouse. A vest is cut at the front and piped with white silk. Two silken buttons caught together with loops of the narrow braid fasten it at the throat. It slips over the head in kimono fashion and a heavy silken cord of white slips around the waist and loops in front. This charming thing is to be worn with white skirts of satin or silk or crepe. A curious concession to the overblouse notion is found in many elaborate waists of chiffon or georgette with the front piece left long enough to go over the skirt and the back, stopping just at the waist line. The belt of the skirt slipped over the front panel gives the effect when worn under a coat or a vefet. The blouse, of course, buttons down the back. The vestee lives on and on and appears just as often on simple waists of wash fabric as it does on the more elaborate type. One finds waists of georgette withvests made by using frill after frill of narrow Valenciennes lace. Always the vestee is simulated by leaving the front panel logger than the back so that it hangs over the skirt. Just as often one finds a hem of some contrasting color to the body of the blouse added, the contrasting color appearing on collar and sleeves also.

Now and then in a very fine smock of organdie one finds tills sort of trimming done with fine lace. Of all of the delightful summer things we have seen nope is more charming than the smock of organdie of a new sort which has dots of a different color scattered thickly over its surface. Tiny frills of the plain organdie trim collar and sleeves and edge the turned back hem, while narrow string belts of the organdie hold the extra fullness in place at the waist. These offer the greatest degree of freshness and crispness—which any summer wash fabric ought to have. The Long Cossack Blouse. A ,variation of the smock is the Cossack blouse. This is just as apt to reach to the knees as not. It often buttons rightupto thech In, or again it is apt to separate down the front entirely to show a vest underneath of richness and beauty. The Cossack blouse, as the name tells, is borrowed from Russia. It has the same droops ing fullness at the waist that one sees in the Russian peasant garment, arranged over a Wide belt of the same material as the whole garment or of different color antttfabric. The skirt of blouse is always very long, and vfK as apt to reach to the hem of the skirt as not. It is most often developed in some handsome fabrics such as georgette thickly braided or beaded, or in silken indestructible voile or even in heavier silk or velvet, and naturally is intended for elaborate occasions. There is nothing which offers a simpler way of remodelling an old garment than the use of a Cossack blouse. One can really make a sort of elongated shirt and belt it in at the waist and conform thus strictly to the type. Or the front can be opened,a vest added and the sides of the skirt be left open to show the petticoat of the dress beneath. There are endless ways in which one can vary the design, therefore it has everything to recommend it. Now because there is much talk of these newer models we must not for a moment think that the regulation blouse or shirtwaist is out of favor. Indeed, It is not, and it is repeated in just as many materials as there are factories to make them. The kimono type with its slip-on ease is still much favored for the dressier blouses of georgette or chiffon. Many have‘"‘a rather tight foundation over which is hung a panel of contrasting color back and front. This panel, while short, is left to hang free over the skirt and is smart in appearance. The sleeves of this blouse are of the same color and material as the body. Qne often finds this type of waist enveloped in a combination of organdie and linen _or pique or heavy lawn. The effect is pleasing and unusual, too. Waist of Tailored Typers As to the more tailored type of waist for traveling or business there are several models which bid for favor. One of these is the strictly tailored design following the exact lines of a man’s shirt and is much affected for sport wear. A long time ago shirts of this sort were made of a brilliant stMped percale and these are again in favor —bright red and white stripes vying with those of the most vivid blue or green or yellow or black .for first place. These, of course, are strictly tailored and have the appearance of belonging

to one’s brother, as they demand the same ties and link cuff buttons. Another tailored model is less severe than these, as it has a turned down collar usually added of some heavier material than the sheer lawn or dimity or linen of which the blouse is made. In one model the collar of linen crash becomes a pointed revers extending the efltire'front and fastening just below the yoke with one large pearl button. Fine lawn is used for the body of the blouse. The cuffs which finish the long, tight sleeves, are folded back to fasten with buttons or narrow bows of black and. whitg ribbon. . •

Charming Russian blouse of blue draped over a dainty frock of dark blue chiffon.

Gayly embroidered smock adds charm to the wearer who sports a dainty hat to match.