Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 190, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 13 August 1919 — Lace Frocks in Favor in Paris [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]
Lace Frocks in Favor in Paris
Deauville, Alx-les-Balns and Monte Carlo are principal points of interest on the fashion program. Paris, which is to say all of fashionable Paris, has betaken Itself to the smart resorts in France, so it is necessary to follow, closely, asserts a prominent New York, fashion writer, if one is to keep in touch with the latest developments in dress. Always on the alert, Paris traveled to the races, but many of the best people were absent and the midinettes failed the -dressmakers at the last moment, so that there were fewer new frocks than had been expected. Happily most of the troubles are over and the best houses have promised interesting and important changes. However, we are left to guess what the changes are to be, though a few of the models give some important clews and the assurance that whatever the changes may be one may be certain that they will be interesting. The elegance of the pre-war toilettes is repeatedly mentioned and there is every indication that eventually the more elaborate manner of dressing will return. Lace, which has long since been discarded, is considered one of the most important materials for afternoon wear. Many and conflicting were the comments on its use at the races, but in spite of adverse opinion it was noted that as the days passed by and the makers had an opportunity of showing new models the lace dresses increased in numbers. “an all-lace frock was contemptuously referred to as a lace curtain, but nevertheless the dress was repeated later by other women. The widely diverging views in regard to the use of lace are to be expected, for there is no more difficult
material to handle, and If used the frock is sure to be either a decided success or a miserable failure. Paris is surely correct when following its usual rule of never doing things by half-way measures. It selects the widest laces possible and drapes them over something dark to give the pattern the best advantage. Other models illustrate the use of black and white Chantilly, used in the same dress with a most refreshing effect. Callot, Cherult and Pierre Bulloz are all making use of quantities of lace iff the summer models, which they always show in midseason for - the benefit of their resident Paris clientele. French women have always been partial to lace for afternoon wear and know how to wear it to the best advantage. Where the American woman la prone to place with It a hat that carries the same tame note as the lace, the Frpnch woman will wear something that will provide a contrast And tone up the entire costume. The contrasting note will be found usually In the hat or the material combined with the lace. As black and white is at present the most popular combination In Paris the hat Is frequently of black tulle, either with crosse or paradise. Two of the smartest dresses of lace at Monte’Carlo were In black, as were the hats which were worn with them. In both of these dresses the lace fig-
This creation is a combination of rich all-over cream lace and gold and blue-flowered chiffon. Hat is of black, glazed Milan, with great yellow organdie rose. •
ured in the skirt principally and the waist was of taffeta with a touch of lace. Tunics are as prominent as ever in the scheme of the lace dress, but the lace reaches almost to the bottom of thUfoundation skirt. The dark silk dresses considered sufficiently elaborate for any afternoon affair if embroidered or otherwise embellished seem to be passing out, at least for the summertime. Jenny uses Chantilly lace in a large way, that is to say. In quantities and in big spaces. A black satin and
black lace frock by her is typical of the prevailing mo<je in more ways than one. It carries the harem hem, the almost sleeveless bodice and the nipped-in waistline with the fullness bulging both below and above. To all Intents and purposes the dress Is of lace, with the pattern in the sweeping curves common to Chantilly. Below the waist there is a full peplurn and the satin is draped as a scarf over the shoulders, forming the only sleeves there are and falling straight to the hem at the front, leaving an open space showing the lace, about eight Inches wide, In the center. Drapery and Plaiting. Several striped dresses in taffeta have been noted that show the same arrangement of drapery over the shoulder and one a bit on that order Is marvelously constructed of fine plaiting. Variation is found In the way the plaiting is looped np at the sides is a modified pannier effect. Across the front of the upper part the plaits are held in closely, like a girdle, and at each side allowed to fall loosely in a large loop. Drecoll shows a Chartreuse colored frock with the skirt draped In Chantilly ani&hf girdle forming wlng-like loops at the side, giving the desired width. On the whole new models are rather scarce, suggesting that the best known makers are not averse to holding back as many of their creations as they may for later in the season. Whether by accident or following the lead of Paris, a well-known American designer turned out lately a charming afternoon dress of organdie and black net, bearing out the assertion that silks are no longer absolutely necessary in the construction of the reception and dinner frock. The entire gown was of French blue organdie draped with the net in tunic fashion and edged with black lace. If either this frock or the lace frocks noted at the races are any Indication, the chemise dress is on the wane, for each one is«marked by a decided waistline and both show sashes tied in huge bows at the back. All the late models by Beer point to toe fact that toe flaring tunic over a tighter foundation. will continue In favor. Redingotes Are Coming Back. Cloth dresses in redingote style continue to appear and afe quite the accepted thing when wool dresses are worn. From this the indications are that the redingote will be among the autumn models when they make their appearance on this side. Redingotes were Introduced two or three seasons ago. At the time they did not make any deep Impression, but are now rather surer of success, as any suggestion of being extreme will be oul of the question, and they are undoubtedly smart As the longer Jacket Is rather sure of being the proper thing this fall, one may have the same tronble as formerly in trying to tell a dress from a coat or toe reverse. All authorities agree no far on the wider hip line and the accentuated fullness about toe hips, and this U to be found in the coats and snlt jackets, as well as In the frocks, where it has been seen principally so far. Jenny Is very active in turning out suits,, as it appears • that the dolman and even the cape are slightly less in demand and It Is anticipated that the suit will take toe place to a certain extent
An organdie embroidered summer skirt with a flesh georgette blouae with Val lace. The hat is maline with a robin’s egg blue raffia crown —a fine summer outfit.
