Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 147, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 23 June 1919 — BLACK SILK IS MUCH IN FAVOR [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

BLACK SILK IS MUCH IN FAVOR

Trend Runs to Frocks in Which Harshness Has Given Way to Charm and Dignity. NEW TAFFETAS ARE IMPROVED Material Does Not Split and Crack and Is Regarded a Better Investment Than It Was Some Seasons Ago. To complete one’s spring wprdrobe at least one taffeta frock musfc be included. This may be one of the new and very lovely black gowns of this crisp silk or a stiff and rather simple and quaint evening frock, but to be absolutely correct, declares a fashion writer, at least one taffeta frock must be'included in the season’s outfit. None of the silk gowns for years past has had just the charm and dignity that the black taffetas of this spring have achieved. Indeed, the very silk itself has acquired a new suppleness and a softness which gives delightful drapery effects. Again, these newer taffetas do not split and crack as once they did and are therefore a much better investment than this sort of silk was some seasons ago. Ruffles In Vogue. Since ruffles are so much in vogue it is interesting to note that one of the most advanced models developed in black taffeta silk shows a very long and narrow skirt with a slightly hobbled effect carried out by placing three ruffles one above the other with the hems of the little frills turned up to the waist instead of in the usual manner of placing ruffles turned down toward the hem of the skirt. This is one of the new fancies of the spring—this of the upside down ruffle —and it gives a distinctive look to all frocks and proves them of the latest model. On the particular black dress mentioned, the very long front panel is unbroken from the square neck quite to the bottom ot the skirt, except by the ruffles, and untrimmed except for a straight row of black silk placed straight down one side. The back has a slightly draped bustle effect and a sash, and the sleeves are long and tight. Just why black should be preferred in this sort of silk frock it is difficult to say, as for a long time black taffeta silk was left for the middle aged and for mourning gowrfs. Certain it is

that nothing is more up to date at this time, however, than these severe silken gowns. The makers understood perfectly the softening of all of the harshness taffeta has and indeed since the newer and softer weaves have been exploited this stiffness and shininess is a thing of the past. One of the Smartest Frocks. One of the really smart black frt>cks has nothing to distinguish it especially as to trimming or ornamentation, except in the graceful lines on which it has been cut, and so beautifully draped is the skirt and so cleverly arranged the bodice and accompanying sash of silk that this particular frock seems entirely different from others. Not a vestige of color relieves the black folds and only a short chemisette of the finest and softest cream batiste breaks the entirt? lengths of black. . The placing of this short little vestee, square and low in the neck and •topping just below the bust, brings out one of the newest ideas for sum-.

An attractive afternoon gown of taffeta with figures and vestee of rose shades. A winsome gown for women who are stylish and particular.

mer frocks, as many silken and georgette dresses reveal those fine, soft and very short vestees, square across neck and bust. Eyelet embroidery is extensively used in some of these new silken frocks, appearing especially well placed on a long apron drapery of a smart imported black taffeta embroidery. Apron Drapery Stay*. The apron drapery will not leave us—it seems to have come to stay—and still hangs on frocks with which, seemingly, it has no relation whatever. However, on this particular black frock the whole apron part of eyelet embroidery, done in black silk threads, really makes the dress, falling with a slight fulness in the front over a tight, black petticoat underneath. In the—back- the velvet embroidery appears only on a part of the

skirt, which is drawn in with vesy little fulness. A sash finishes the waist, is tied in a rather large bow and falls nearly to the bottom of the skirt. As to the bodice, it also reveals the little short square chemisette of fine net like the one mentioned. As two wide revers finish the front of the bodice in a sort of surplice effect, the upper part of this waist resembles a smart little Eton jacket. The sleeves are three-quarters long and are finished with a wide, folded-back cuff. One of the very successful combinations for this style of dress is taffeta and georgette, happily arranged in one instance with a long tunic of blue georgette over an underneath skirt of blue taffeta. The bottom of the tunic is handsomely ornamented with an application of taffeta in small scrolls and pieces cleverly embroidered in place with heavy silken threads. A repetition of the applique appears on the blouse,which overhangs the tunic and belt slightly, and the long taffeta sash in the back makes a good finish for the This also shows buttons of silk in the front of the bodice and a short vestee of fine white lace finishes the upper part of the front. The sleeves are the curipus short bebe sleeves so much affected in the French importations. ** Evening Frocks. Taffeta frocks are by no means com fined to just afternoon gowns, as this silk, is being extensively used for simple evening frocks and really offers a welcome change from the heavier brocades and metal tissues, the beaded and spangled splendid robes of which we shall doubtless grow tired in spite of their great beauty and elegance. A rose pink silken frock of the placid silk has a little bertha of very rich lace outlining the rather low decolletage and Is without sleeves. The skirt is very long and very narrow and only a slightly draped effect just in the very front of the long skirt breaks the otherwise perfectly plain lines. The bands of silken loops, which are being so much used, trim a dark blue evening gown and puffs of the silk with corded edges trim another, though in this instance a very smart afternoon gown. While one finds an occasional combination of georgette and taffeta and now and then some lace or satin used in a combination with this stiffer silk, for the most part the best models and those most frequently seen are untrimmed and rely principally on the drapery and clever lines to achieve the distinction most women want for their frocks. The cordings and puffs are not entirely new, as we used them several seasons back,, but that Is long enough ago to give the idea of an entirely new style when we see them now. &

Exquisite evening gown. Distinctively French, long train and gown of embroidered flowers, and beads on black silk; gold mohair belt for vest.