Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 145, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 20 June 1919 — Cape Holds Its Own All Year [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Cape Holds Its Own All Year

Season in and season out Ihe cape flourishes in undiminished popularity. It is not often, declares a fashion authority, that a conspicuous fashion such as this, which quickly attained universal favor, survives for a single season, much less for the four wellrouuded ones which the cape already has to ltß credit, as it enters on the summer solstice with a following as enthusiastic as ever. There are capes long and short, capes slim and straight or draped In voluminous folds, three tiered capes, reversible capes, capes in striking combinations of -two materials In one color or of two colors in the same material, curious and, interesting capes and cobwebby sketches of capes in georgette or tulle boldly accented with fur. One sees much less of the waistcoat in the summer cape models. It Is hard to tell whether the almost total elimination of this feature In all except the strictly sport models is due to the fact that its added warmth is no longer desirable or whether it has been simply done to death. Collar Arrangements. The collar arrangement which wraps around the neck in many folds is still much in evidence, but there are capes with Medici collars, capes with a fit-

ted yoke and high close-fitting collar and capes with no more collar than a band about the shoulders. One of the most useful cape models has a very wide band of the fabric folded sofjly back across the front from hem to hem. This can be gathered snugly about the throat or allowed to fall in gracefully negligent folds around the shoulders as occasion demands. This cape is displayed at its best in two-toned combinations of one material or in different fabrics of identical color. It is handsomely developed in navy blue serge and satin or in and duveteen. There is a peculiar smartness about Ihe circular three-tiered capes, and there are capes on straight lines also with three tiers, the extremely wide cape collar which falls well below the shoulder line forming the upper tier. These capes are at their best in Poiret twill or gabardine, but it is only fair to say that the useful navy blue serge cape has been relegated to the background which useful old friends are so frequently required to grace. In dealing with the summer cape there is not much to be said of woolen fabrics except as they are used in combination with silken stuffs or in their unchallenged field, the sport fitFor Sport Wear. For summer sports the strictly serviceable tailored capes of English worsteds and tweeds may be passed over as year round standbys, but capes of homespun, dyed in soft fruity colors, have by reason of their light open weave a . distinctly summery place in the sport outfit. Wool jersey still has a claim on the summer sportswoman and capes of this fabric are frequently seen, the most popular development of this garment being the detachable cape to be, buttoned beneath the collar of a sleeveless sport suit. A white wool jersey sleeveless sport suit has a cape of navy blue wool jersey, with white facings buttoned back With pearl buttons. This forms a very useful as ’well as an undeniably attractive costume. 6. A sport cape which is comparatively, new and which will interest many women is fashioned of channellette. This wool fabric, apparently knit by hand, but in reality a product of the knitting machine, can be purchased by the yard in a variety of gay and lovely colors. It is 36 inches wide and suffi- . dently expensive, but as capes of this

type are cut very scant and straight a large quantity of the fabric is not required. Narrow Angora knitted wool may also De bought with which capes and sport coats of channellette are bordered, collared and cuffed. A cape has been designed for .country Hear of heavy, soft linen crash, lined with bright gingham, which has a certain bizarre charm of its own but comes dangerously near being an eccentricity. Silk, Satin and Wool? Capes of silken weaves for daytime wear spell summer in every lustrous length of trlcolette or satin and in the crisp and sprightly folds of moire or taffeta. Satin Is often used in combinations with wool, either duveteen, gabardine or wool jersey. The upper part of the cape is usually of satin with a broad band of the woolen fabric at the lower edge. Often the collar Is of wool, but frequently of fur. A delectable cape of this type has the lower half of beige wool jersey, the upper half of brown satin and the collar of summer ermine. Satin as well as taffeta is sometimes reduced to the severe cut of the three-tiered cape, but it is at its best in the more, suave and gracious lines of the draped models. One very love-

ly cape of double-faced satin has a long scarf front and is gathered at the shoulders with a small upstanding frill. The soft, dull blue of the under side is turned back in a wide fold at the neck and down the front over the navy blue of the exterior. Attractive satin capes in henna, black or blue show the plainness of their surface broken by roundabout gathered inserts of georgette. Capes of tricolette. often gathered into wide bands of duveteen or gabardine of the same shade, have a great deal of distinction. Both the plain and fancy weaves are employed, and in the latter case the trimming of wool fabric Is frequently omitted, while a fur collar gives the accent of weight and substance which most summer capes seem to require as a need of their being. A changeable taffeta cape In shades of red, brown and blue is a noticeable exception to this rule. Its quaintly gathered and frilled body Is topped by a yoke in which delicate dull gold embroidery plays an important part. Capes Extraordinarily Smart. Extraordinarily smart capes are developed in moire silk in navy, black, brown or castor and nearly always with the all but inevitable fur collar. One in black has superimposed upon its moire surface brocaded satin figures, the glint of which, added to Its squirrel collar, completes a cape distinguished enough for any occasion. What might b'e called the apotheosis of the summer , cape is now coming very much to the fore in all the more exclusive shops. These exquisite and fragile garments have little to recommend them except sheer charm. Extravagant they are to a degree both in the initial cost and in perishability; and as to warmth, two thicknesses of georgette provide but scant protection even to the most imaginative. They are like Lucy Lockett’s pocket which had nothing in it but the binding round it, and depend altogether for substance on the bandings and mountings of fur which do’ their utmost to hold these thistledown garments hear the earth. Short-hip length georgette capes with armholes banded by fur to match the deep collars are provided for those who have a weakness for these intriguing little affairs.

Cape of navy blue and biscuit silk poplin, and one of brown tulle over brown chiffon fur trimmed.