Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 108, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 May 1919 — One-Piece Gown Is In Evidence [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

One-Piece Gown Is In Evidence

The fashion shows which are held at the leading Paris dressmakers to determine the spring styles are disappointing, perhaps, from the point of view of the foreign buyers, while Jo the Parislenne the season on the whole seems the most brilliant that she has seen for many a day. writes a Paris fashion correspondent. The American buyers naturally expected great things from the French creators whose ideas have been so deeply affected by the mourning of France during these five years of war. They figured that this first victory season would be one of remarkable elegance, entirely forgetting the fact that France cannot throw aside her somber black merely because the ar-

mistice was signed. She still mourns her dead and it will be another six months or perhaps a year before she can think of returning to her former magnificence of dress. Then, again, the foreign buyers have figured that the sudden change from war to peace would mean a sudden change in the method of living and, therefore, a sudden change in the styles, but peace has made no noticeable change so far, and when the change does come it will take place so gradually, as we come out from under our numerous restrictions, that we will scarcely notice it. The French women are still deprived of their automobiles and the former fashionable tea houses cannot resume their gayettes ( until they can serve something besides plain tea. The lack of butter and sugar means a lot to a tea house and all of these things have their influences on the fashions. Some of the houses, however, have borne in mind that the peace conference, with its delegates coming from the corners of the earth that have been untouched by the war, would brlhg some of the old gayety to Paris and that the buyers from those countries would expect brilliant collections of dresses. Elaborate and Elegant. The Martial and Armand collection, for Instance, is most elaborate and elegant in every detail, which is largely due to the fact that Mme. Valle was called upon in December to make a number of handsome evening dresses for the reception giyen to the Italian embassy for the King of Italy and President Wilson. She has an extensive Italian clientele, and with fifteen handsome dresses at this dinner and reception she was inclined to think that her Italian, Spanish and American buyers would buy the same kind of dresses in February. . The Maison Martial et Armand is showing no great change in the general style. There is some effort made to get away from the “robe chemise,” but the effort has not been altogether successful. The skirts are still very narrow and short and many of the models are the same old “chemise” that the French women absolutely refuse to give up, much to the disgust of the American buyers. The models that have not the straight lines are slightly draped, but the afternoon dresses are practically / all the same loose .chemise variety with the only new note in the very elaborate embroidery. The embroideries are wonderful throughout the collection. A new embroidery is introduced in gold thread in long stitches which make it look like the wrong side of the satin brocades that are used for upholstering. A hew beaded embroidery is also to be noted in which tiny beads are sewed on in little loops in a very close design giving it a feathery appearance. The most gorgeous metal tissues and metal brocades are. used in the evening dresses, which are always gracefully draped and are still short and trains shown with all of them. A marked feature of the collection is the little tulle jackets trimmed in ostrich feathers and # the handsome span?gled capes. A cape embroidered la

blqck spangles and jet is one of the most popular models In the collection despite the fact that Its price Is 2,000 francs. Evening Dresses First Little attention is being paid to; tailored costumes in any of the dress-; making establishments. All have madei an effort to specialize in the afternoon and evening dresses. Jenny’s charm-' Ing blue serge street dresses make one. forget that she is not showing many “tallleurs.” They are the usual straight, narrow, one-piece frocks, loosely belted by a broad sash of novelty ribbon, but the little white vests that are w r orn with all of them give them a very new look. These waist-' coats with their Dlrectoire collars are l decidedly a feature of the collection. They no longer extend below the waist line, as did those of the last two sea-' sons, but they merely fill in the deep V of the serge bodice and are not low In the neck. If Jenny’s models are as popular as they promise to be now the separate neckwear will come into its own again, for separate collars are t • shown with the serge dresses. Many of them are the turned down linen; collars that we w’ore years ago with shirt waists. With them, are worn, pretty little ribbon ties. Ribbon, Im fact, is andther marked feature of the collection. Practically all of the mod-' els have ribbon, sashes, and fringe, too,, is featured. All of the sashes havei fringed ends and bands bf fringe are; employed in all sorts of w’ays. Jenny shows her usual gorgeous’ evening dresses which can easily he; described as evening skirts and nothing more. Even the shoulder straps; are so transparent that they can scarcely be seen, but the skirts make up for all that the bodices lack. They: are most dazzling, in the most bril-: liant colors, in metal brocades and» spell victory throughout. Doeulllet, too, is showing an important collection, especially In evening dresses. He shows one model after another exquisitely draped in gold cloth; and often combined with embroidered' tulle. Metal cloth and jet seem to be his favorite combination and he uses quantities of jet fringe, all of which means expense, making it difficult for the Americans to buy, because the dtity runs many of them up to the three and four thousand franc mark. I recall one dress in the most georgeous metal tissue the actual material of which sells for 170 francs a yard. One thinks nothing of paying 100 francs a yard now for the most ordinary tissues. Satin and Metal Brocade. Doeulllet has a pretty way of using a bright colored satin and metal brocade bodice with a black satin skirt. No trimming of any kind is used except a black jet fringe to finish the ends'of the sash, which is made of the brocade. The Doeulllet skirts are no,t too short and not too narrow, but they have a different movement from all of

the others in the manner in which they are caught up in front and are. much longer in the back. A specialty is made of good wearable coats, for which the house has long been noted. Rodier’s new broad striped woollen materials are most effectively used. I recall one in a rich golden brown with a black stripe that is the smartest sport coat that I have yet seen. AH of the coats are made to be held around the figure and up in the front, just as last season. The one movement that is to be* seen everywhere and the onsy one that is strikingly new Is the long waist line with semi-draped bodices. Worth carries out this idea in many different ways, making it rather the basis on which his models are created.

Ribbon Trims This Tunic Dress From Paris—the Sash Is of Wide Blue Ribbon and the Other Materials Are Crepe Georgette and Lace.

Pans is Mad About Sashes. This One Is Embroidered on the Material of the Dress, Which Is Striped Taffeta in Blue and White. Sash Is Embroidered in Gold, Rose and Blue.