Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 108, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 May 1919 — Page 3

Anyone may be excused for enjoying the talent that can take two such familiar -fabrics- as embroidered net and eyelet embroidery and convert them into a dress as unusual and distinguished as that pictured here. It Is this ingenuity in making the best that can be made of materials that delights the critic of dress, more than anything else. Whoever designed this altogether charming dress for a summer day, showed a positive genius for adapting simple means to a triumphant end and has achieved a pretty masterpiece. This dress, which is just all that one could ask for, is made of goods that are washable, and while it lasts will therefore be able to add freshness to Its other beauties. It has, a straight skirt bordered at the bottom with a ■wide band of eyelet embroidery which Is joined to a plain petticoat of fine lawn or batiste. The band of embroidery used for this deep border is hemmed up along one edge. The other edge is trimmed off, the portion trimmed away including the row of round eyelets that finish the embroidery pattern on each edge. This row of eyelets appears in the girdle and in the seams of the coat. The long straight coat is of net with a figure scattered over it, a simple embroidered motive. It has also a deep

Large Hats Extend Their Conquests

The large hat for summer wear, adroitly managed to extend its field of usefulness, is how a part of the headwear of gray-haired matrons as well as a favorite with yoking women. It has won out, or .the older matrons have, by a gradual progress. In these days so many women of middle life have a youthful carriage, youthful figures, and handsome faces that they select millinery to match up with these rather than with their graying hair. Occasionally one sees a matron with dark eyes, fresh complexion and white hair, full of vigor and. dressed superblytosgt off her style. It has to be conceded that such a woman possesses more distinction than youth can hope for, in her appearance. And large hats on gray heads have been worn by these older discriminating dressers, but this year they are announced by the authoritative cbsttlmers and featured among the showings of lovely millinery for Easter. In the group of three hats* shown . here, all pictured on youthful models, the large black hat »t the top is better suited to the older head. It is riot extreme in size and is iriade of fine malines, with curtain edge that softens it and a flange of black velvet on the under brim. The crown of malines Is blocked into shape and has .... ... ... ’ 1

A Triumph in Summer Dress

border of the eyelet embroidery at tne bottom and pointed pockets of it set on at each side. The introduction of the eyelet embroidery in seams is a touch that tells in this design. The long net sleeves have a narrow band of eyelet embroidery at the waist and the girdle is made of it. Narrow black grosgrain ribbon, in two lengths is fastened to the eyelet girdle at the right side and looped to the center of the front. It is free to fall in two ends from these. This is the final quiet touch to a dress that has the refinement of white and marvelously clever designing to make it the envy of more pretentious rivals. The hat and shoes to be worn with it are obliged to measure up to its excellence; to be of the same character.

Sweaters.

No wardrobe is complete without at least one sweater. Men, women, boys, girls and even babies wear ’em, says Dry Goods Economist. Men cling to the serviceable wool sweater coat or athletic sweater, boys accept the same styles, but women and girls demand many styles and materials from which to make their selections. Silk, fiber silk and wool are the predominating materials, at this particular season woolen sweaters, of course, being the leaders.

a band of velvet about the sides. Against this bamj there are set four big ostrich feather “pin-wheels,” made of long, black flues. ; Below at the left, a large hat of orchid-pink crepe reveals an irregular brim, narrow in front, much wider at the back and a soft crown. The brim edge is finished with an overcast stitch made of embroidery silk. Blossoms and foliage are embroidered in a heavy silk on the crown and brim. This would make a good choice for a brides; maid’s hat and be effective in any of the light colors. ~ The remaining hat has a braid brim, covered with crepe geargette, a crown of georgette and the very becoming curtain edge which' is so atti'activd in malines or lace or georgette hats. Hats of this character are shown in all the fashionable light colors. Fine chenille used in the manner of embroidery Silvis applied to the crown in long parallel stitches placed in groups, with a cross-stitch ornament between the groups. This is a very practical large hat and is made in many colors. ■ (

TILE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER. IND.

The Future Power

By JOE H. RANSON

I (Copyright.) Jimmie Orm of the firm of Strass & Orm, brokers, was dining with his friend. Dr. Edouard Enz. Between the eyes lingered, a pucker that meant that his brain was still digging coldly, mechanically at the problem that had stared at him out of the tangled mass of facts that had been the portion of this day. Rumors, contradictions, flurries; quick, spasmodic leaps and counters of the fluctuating market; uncertainties, panicky sellings of nervous clients, all had contributed to bring Strass to the point almost of collapse, and had set the junior partner, Orm, griinfaced, to clawing his hair. "There’s going to be the deuce to pay,” Orm now spoke coolly, his eyes wandering restlessly over the lighted case, “if the conditions that have prevailed today continue. Strass Is about all In. I never saw him so upset. It’s a bad business for a man with nerves.” He looked across at Enz, who w r as watching him under cover of Cigarette smoke. ‘*l know very little about finance,” began Enz, but Orm interrupted. “Finance,” he snorted. “That’s a pretty name. It’s chance, Ed, the gambler’s god. I wish I were out of it all. But I can’t leave old Strass to be buried in the ruins alone. He has always been very decent to me. But what can I do —what can anyone do — that’s where I butt into the stone wall every time.” As they ate, Orin delivered himself of the things that vexed and puzzled him. Enz led him on, asking now and then a question so pertinent that the broker looked up quickly in wonder. Throughout the . meal the conversation was nearly one-sided. , The conditions were boldly outlined, graphically depicted by Orm. And always he came back to the elemental point of man's Ignorance, his moving always in the narrow lighted space of the hour, beating helplessly against the upreared something which marks the unknown. “If,” .he cried out in a kind of mild frenzy, clinching his fists, “if we could only know, see.” Enz interrupted at last. He had finished his coffee and was lighting a cigarette. His face was slightly flushed as he leaned closer to the center ofi the table and spoke in the lowest of tones. “Foresight,” he said. “That is what you mean. That expresses all that you have said. Imprisoned in the confines of weak, enslaving flesh, man is a puppet, moving In a spot-light, shut In on all sides by elemental darkness. “Ages have raised him from the skin-clad, herb-eating animal that dwelt in caves and was prey to stronger beasts. He has broadened the circle of the lighted space in which he lives, but he is still the helpless mote, ringed round with mystery.” Orm sat with his cup raised halfway to his lips. “Jimmie,” went on Enz, in the same voice, “do you want to know', would you like to be able to see? Or would you be afraid?” “When did you do it, Ed?” he whispered. Without replying, he suddenly slipped his hand into the inner pocket of his coat and took forth a small w’al-. let. - From this he extracted a folded paper, with doubled ends, such as physicians affect for sleeping powders. This he quickly unfolded, and, leaning forward, spilled the contents deftly into the coffee cup which Orm had set before him. “Jimmie,” he smiled, “you may now finish your coffee.” > When, at the usual hour the following morning, Orm aw’oke, it was to the realization of a powerthat was, in its' strangeness, almost uncanny. Coming out of a state of temporary insensibility, lie was terribly, stingingly alive/ His first realization of the unusual came to him as hrs picked up the morning paper. The market pages were hardly more than a rehash of the night He glanced at the date line and was surprised to find that the paper was actually of the present. 'the things that it recited seemed to him ancient. Dirhly his memory groped back to them, took account of all the facts that intervened. Could it be possible that these things that were so clear to him were as yet unknown to the world?” He began to chronicle his information. Hunterton would begin his fight today. From his apartments he took a taxi. He could not wait, though the distance was slight. He even urged the chauffeur to higher speed. He nimself threw open the door and pitched the driver a dollar. , Reason told him that the elevators would carry him faster than his legs. Impulse urged him to bound up the stairs. He stamped about the corridor until a car was ready to ...go up. He was the first one inside. On the sixth floor he threw open a door upon which no sign was painted. The door was unornamented in any way, conspicuous for its lack of gold leaf. A man sat at a desk inside. Orm advanced. “Andrew,” began Orm, running his finger* through his rank mane, “how

much 4money you command this momlngT* . The other looked puzzled. Orm’s face was quite serious. The other was used to the impetuosity of his visitor, and the puzzled look vanished. He named a Sum. Orm pulled up a chair. He leaned forward and talked rapidly, certainly. There was confidence in the v«ry position of his long body. The other man listened with interest. Incredulity came first. Then Orm’s voice, Orm’s personality, the infection that dwelt in his enthusiasm, in his very self-belief, won. The other man grew excited. He rose and stamped about the office. "How do you know?” he asked, halting before the other. “I know,” said Orm. “I simply know I tell you It will happen. It is all as plain to me as though I had read a report of it in this morning’s Sphere. Forty-eight hours from now the Sphere will print the story, almost exactly as I have outlined it” “It seems insane,” mused the other, speaking as much to himself as to Orm. “And yet I can’t get it out of me that you’re right. You’ve got the dope some way*. I don’t know how you’ve got it, and it don’t seem hardly possible to me. yet I- can’t help believing it. That’s the queer part.” When Orm left the office he bore with hint a check and a note. And now began that vigil, that long fight, that nerve-racking, heart-break-ing, grim strife which is not equaled on any battlefield of mere guns and sabers. Orm spent the time in his own sm'all room, watching the coil of tape that told the market’s history. “Always he had the telephone at his elbow. Always he persisted, against all indications, all seeming certainties jhat his course was folly. Strass had succumbed long since to the strain and had been sent home a raving thing.. But Orm sat in his tiny office, commanding a campaign that to others seemed that of a madman, and to himself so simple, so certain, that it was as mere child’s play, a mechanical following out of set forms. It had .begun with the Hunterton crowd throwing Inter-County In blocks upon a questioning, uncertain, palpitating market. Naturally the price fell like a thermometer thrust into an ice-box. It was not until this fall had occurred and the stock was droppingout of sight, at the mad moment when it was being avoided as a pestilential thing, that Orm’s men began quietly, industriously ’ buying. Throughout the day they bought. Orm, in his office, commanded by telephone. The outer office was besieged by wild-eyed beings who thought the young broker suddenly gone mad. Once he threw open his door and stood befdre them, his hair wildly disarrayed, his great figure towering majestically, his face suffused, the dark frown of an angered Odin clouding his brow, and cursed them for a pack of fools. A man sat at a desk in a room on the sixth floor of an office building, a room upon the door of which no. sign appeared, and read a newspaper. He read hungrily, not because the story he was reading was news, but because it was so strikingly akin to a story that Jimmie Orm told the day before, the stbry that Orm had declared was as plain to him as though he had read it in the morning’s paper. The thing had come to pass. The confidence that, in a saner moment had struck him as the trust of an idiot in the maunderings of ft madman, was now justified. It had all happened. The man laid down the paper and looked out of the window. His money, the money that in his hypnotized state he had confided to the hands of mad Jimmie Orm, had made two millionaires. It was a fortnight later when Dr. Edouard Enz received a night letter from Chicago. • It read: “The girl from Milwaukee and I were married tonight. Our love for you. Thank hehven this blanked foresight is wearing off. Never again.” Enz smiled as he slipped the square back into Its envelope. He stood for a moment before the open bed of coals, holding the telegram in his hand. “It will be all right,” he said to himself, turning to the table with its unopened mail. “The effect will wear off entirely in about three weeks. “I fancy itis deuced uncomfortable, though, while it lasts.”

Simplifying Labor Problem.

They tell of a young woman who wrote to her fiance in France that she had succeeded to his job; that she liked it and was making good, and she intends to keep it even if he does come back—and what is he going to do. about it? He replied that he was glad of it; that all he wanted when he got home was to marry her, and he would only be too happy to have her to do the work and let him rest. And didn't she think she ought to be entitled to a raise In salary about July, for it takes more so keep two than one? The real heroes are not going to be hard’’ to take care of after the war—if the women are patriotic and will do the work. —Howard (Kan.) Courant.

Wanted Realities This Time.

“Dearest," he said to the little wld ow,» “become my wife and I promise you shall have every luxury your heart desires.” • “Before I consent, I want to know that you are able to afford the luxuries r Shall want,” she replied. “What is yonr income?” “Would you speak of Income at such a time?”/ ' “Yes, indeed. My first husband fed me oh promise*.”

One-Piece Gown Is In Evidence

The fashion shows which are held at the leading Paris dressmakers to determine the spring styles are disappointing, perhaps, from the point of view of the foreign buyers, while Jo the Parislenne the season on the whole seems the most brilliant that she has seen for many a day. writes a Paris fashion correspondent. The American buyers naturally expected great things from the French creators whose ideas have been so deeply affected by the mourning of France during these five years of war. They figured that this first victory season would be one of remarkable elegance, entirely forgetting the fact that France cannot throw aside her somber black merely because the ar-

Ribbon Trims This Tunic Dress From Paris—the Sash Is of Wide Blue Ribbon and the Other Materials Are Crepe Georgette and Lace.

mistice was signed. She still mourns her dead and it will be another six months or perhaps a year before she can think of returning to her former magnificence of dress. Then, again, the foreign buyers have figured that the sudden change from war to peace would mean a sudden change in the method of living and, therefore, a sudden change in the styles, but peace has made no noticeable change so far, and when the change does come it will take place so gradually, as we come out from under our numerous restrictions, that we will scarcely notice it. The French women are still deprived of their automobiles and the former fashionable tea houses cannot resume their gayettes ( until they can serve something besides plain tea. The lack of butter and sugar means a lot to a tea house and all of these things have their influences on the fashions. Some of the houses, however, have borne in mind that the peace conference, with its delegates coming from the corners of the earth that have been untouched by the war, would brlhg some of the old gayety to Paris and that the buyers from those countries would expect brilliant collections of dresses. Elaborate and Elegant. The Martial and Armand collection, for Instance, is most elaborate and elegant in every detail, which is largely due to the fact that Mme. Valle was called upon in December to make a number of handsome evening dresses for the reception giyen to the Italian embassy for the King of Italy and President Wilson. She has an extensive Italian clientele, and with fifteen handsome dresses at this dinner and reception she was inclined to think that her Italian, Spanish and American buyers would buy the same kind of dresses in February. . The Maison Martial et Armand is showing no great change in the general style. There is some effort made to get away from the “robe chemise,” but the effort has not been altogether successful. The skirts are still very narrow and short and many of the models are the same old “chemise” that the French women absolutely refuse to give up, much to the disgust of the American buyers. The models that have not the straight lines are slightly draped, but the afternoon dresses are practically / all the same loose .chemise variety with the only new note in the very elaborate embroidery. The embroideries are wonderful throughout the collection. A new embroidery is introduced in gold thread in long stitches which make it look like the wrong side of the satin brocades that are used for upholstering. A hew beaded embroidery is also to be noted in which tiny beads are sewed on in little loops in a very close design giving it a feathery appearance. The most gorgeous metal tissues and metal brocades are. used in the evening dresses, which are always gracefully draped and are still short and trains shown with all of them. A marked feature of the collection is the little tulle jackets trimmed in ostrich feathers and # the handsome span?gled capes. A cape embroidered la

blqck spangles and jet is one of the most popular models In the collection despite the fact that Its price Is 2,000 francs. Evening Dresses First Little attention is being paid to; tailored costumes in any of the dress-; making establishments. All have madei an effort to specialize in the afternoon and evening dresses. Jenny’s charm-' Ing blue serge street dresses make one. forget that she is not showing many “tallleurs.” They are the usual straight, narrow, one-piece frocks, loosely belted by a broad sash of novelty ribbon, but the little white vests that are w r orn with all of them give them a very new look. These waist-' coats with their Dlrectoire collars are l decidedly a feature of the collection. They no longer extend below the waist line, as did those of the last two sea-' sons, but they merely fill in the deep V of the serge bodice and are not low In the neck. If Jenny’s models are as popular as they promise to be now the separate neckwear will come into its own again, for separate collars are t • shown with the serge dresses. Many of them are the turned down linen; collars that we w’ore years ago with shirt waists. With them, are worn, pretty little ribbon ties. Ribbon, Im fact, is andther marked feature of the collection. Practically all of the mod-' els have ribbon, sashes, and fringe, too,, is featured. All of the sashes havei fringed ends and bands bf fringe are; employed in all sorts of w’ays. Jenny shows her usual gorgeous’ evening dresses which can easily he; described as evening skirts and nothing more. Even the shoulder straps; are so transparent that they can scarcely be seen, but the skirts make up for all that the bodices lack. They: are most dazzling, in the most bril-: liant colors, in metal brocades and» spell victory throughout. Doeulllet, too, is showing an important collection, especially In evening dresses. He shows one model after another exquisitely draped in gold cloth; and often combined with embroidered' tulle. Metal cloth and jet seem to be his favorite combination and he uses quantities of jet fringe, all of which means expense, making it difficult for the Americans to buy, because the dtity runs many of them up to the three and four thousand franc mark. I recall one dress in the most georgeous metal tissue the actual material of which sells for 170 francs a yard. One thinks nothing of paying 100 francs a yard now for the most ordinary tissues. Satin and Metal Brocade. Doeulllet has a pretty way of using a bright colored satin and metal brocade bodice with a black satin skirt. No trimming of any kind is used except a black jet fringe to finish the ends'of the sash, which is made of the brocade. The Doeulllet skirts are no,t too short and not too narrow, but they have a different movement from all of

Pans is Mad About Sashes. This One Is Embroidered on the Material of the Dress, Which Is Striped Taffeta in Blue and White. Sash Is Embroidered in Gold, Rose and Blue.

the others in the manner in which they are caught up in front and are. much longer in the back. A specialty is made of good wearable coats, for which the house has long been noted. Rodier’s new broad striped woollen materials are most effectively used. I recall one in a rich golden brown with a black stripe that is the smartest sport coat that I have yet seen. AH of the coats are made to be held around the figure and up in the front, just as last season. The one movement that is to be* seen everywhere and the onsy one that is strikingly new Is the long waist line with semi-draped bodices. Worth carries out this idea in many different ways, making it rather the basis on which his models are created.

Hats Made of Flowers.

The newest small hats are made enof vivid flower®, followiaf th* lines of the head. .. ......