Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 96, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 24 April 1919 — Page 3

NOW BUT MEMORY

Caballeros of California Practically Extinct. # '""j , : Passed With the Disappearance of the Wonderful Horses Which Were Their Pride —Noted for Courtliness and Hospitality. •o The persistent disappearance of the horse from the life and labor of California, and the substitution of the automobile and auto truck In its place, must serve as a mental depression to the old-timers. For there was .a time in California when the horse was not only indispensable, but also the chief ornament of the country. In the old days “before the gringo came,” and indeed for many a year after that, the horses of California were both a wonder and a delight. They were the joy of th& caballeros, that is to say the Spanish gentlemen of California. With the disappearance of the horse it seems that the caballeros are also disappearing. It is - high time that Jackson A. Graves gives us his longpromised book, “The Passing of the Dominantßace,” a book that no other man is so well qualified to write. The California horse was a truly wonderful creature —a cross between the pure Arabian strain and the native wild horse. It was on the backs of such horses that a band of Californians under command of Gen. Andrps Pico, armed only with lanePs, defeated signally n troop of United States soldiers under Gen. Stephen Watts Kearny at the battle of San Pasqnal in San Diego county. v —,vTsie caballeros who bred and Used those horses were also a wonderful class of men. The saddles and bridles they used were nearly always very beautiful and of great cost. They were ornamented with silver trappings, and the sfturs on the caballeros’ heels were also of silver. Courtly and hospitable were the caballeros. Their homes were like the ,old feudal homes of Europe. Indian and Mexican servants were there to do one’s least bidding and to anticipate one’s slightest desire. But we never see them now except when Los Angeles holds an all-too-in-frequent fiesta. Then a few of them emerge from their obscurity, riding down the shining highways of the town with memories of the happy days of the past gimving like embers in their dusky eyes.—Los Angeles Times.

Bent Castiron Pipes.

Accustomed to bend pipes of wrought iron and steel for the sugar mills, Cuban pipe layers are reported to have applied their novel method to castiron material. Through mistake, the 10-inch castiron pipe for a water main passing through a crooked twotnile canyon to the town of Present was supplied only in straight lengths 12 feet long, with a thickness of shell of 9-16 Inch; and to avoid a long wait for bent sections a cradle of the desired curvature was built with old rails, six or eight pipes at a time were placed on it, when a hardwood fire so heated the pipes that in about two hours they bent and settled by their own weight to the cradle. Bending to various radii down to f>o feet is stated to have been effected without a single broken pipe.

Lacking in Respect.

A burly and bristling exemplar of German militarism, with captain’s knots on his shoulders and an iro# cross on his chest, was included in a bag of prisoners that some American soldiers made just before the armistice was signed. He was indignant, to say the least, and his mood intensified as he was marched back to the intelligence officer. He had not heard the questioning officer speak more than five words of German before he burst into the conversation. “Do you allow privates to call officers by their first names In this army?” be demanded wdtheringly, according to Stars and Stripes. “Why 1 ?” asked the officer. “Well, this pig,” said the Prussian, “called me Heine every time he addressed me." —tooth’s Companion.

Schleswig Rich Land.

Schleswig, the northern portion of she Schleswig-Holstein of Prussia, is adjacent to Denmark. The northern part of the former duchy Is peopled mainly by Danes. Excellent harbors are on the eastern coast and the agricultural land is there also. The western coast consists of marshy but fertile marine alluvium. Agriculture is the chief occupation and much rye, wheat, barley and hay are produced. The province is famous for its excellent' cattle, -which are exported the /world over for breeding purposes. Manufacturing: industries are little developed. Its relative to the Baltic sea and the North sea has increased Its. commercial importance to a great extent.

Caesar's Erring Wife.

Bearing the name of Julius Caesar, a business man applied for divorce in the Edinburgh (Scotland) court on the ground of desertion by his wife. He said they were married in London in 1895. His wife left him twice once In 1898 and finally in ,1900. The differences between them were largely due to temperamental antagonism. Petitioner took up tesldence in Scotland II year* later, and she wrote that after such a long separation she could not return to him. Caesar mi granted a decree alaL

Demand for Beads

Decoration Effectively Used on Articles of Apparel. Tiny Circles and Squares Add to Attractiveness of Gowns, Hats, Slippers and Bags. Of course everyone has noticed by this time that beads are just as much the vogue this spring as ever. Beads there are on hats, blouses, gowns and evening slippers, besides “purse bags" are still much beaded, and we wear beads around our necks, notes a correspondent. Two patterns of beads much used on georgette blouses and frocks that are very easy to copy are the round and square designs. The round designs ate merely circles of beads of some effective contrasting color, such as white beads on a coral fabric, or black beads on yellow, that are sewed on tunics in circles about as large as a saucer. Sometimes a bit of embroidery—wool or silk —is applied as a motif inside a circle. The square pattern Is developed extensively by the use of the shiny cylindrical .beads about half an inch long. These are applied In a very simple, large plaid to" whole dresses or tunics or blouses. Sometimes just a tworow border crosses in a plaid at the corner of a drapery or a collar. Coarse wooden beads in natural wood color, or very bright colors, are among the novelty beads trimming some of the very daintiest frocks. ©n millinery, the wooden bead, often represents the center of a flower on a black maline hat of the midsummer lingerie type. A very simple yet striking way to bead a bag is to use round beads about the size of a pea, and sew them on moire silk in spaces about two inches apart all over the bag. Yellow beads on dull blue moir are an effective color combination.

Among the good color schemes to employ with fabrics and bead trimmings are cut steel or silver beads on Copenhagen blue, white beads on rose, red beads on white, crystal beads on pale green, bright blt(fc beads on gray or yellow, white beads on very palest yellow for a very dainty effect and black beads on the henna color. Worn around the neck, beads not only will accent or modify a neck line, but when properly chosen, set off the complexion. Beads are an Inexpensive but clever way to add an expensive looking hand touch to many ready-made wearables, and it does not take a great deal of time to do it, if only striking colors and designs are chosen; so, all in all, let milady pay attention to beads, this spring.

SATIN AND GEORGETTE CREPE

The predominating feature of this “Arabesque"’ model is the odd combination of black pussy willow satin and pearl gray georgette crepe, which is neutralized with mahogany-colored silk. General lines have tendency to make wearer appear taller. >

METHODS OF APPLYING BRAID

Three Ways, Entirely by Hand, by Machine and by the Combination Plan. i,, There ore three ways of applying braid or tape as edge trimming—entirely by hand, entirely by machine and by a combination of hand and machine work. In each case care must be taken to “ease” the braid with the left hand as the work proceeds in order to avoid shrinkage In wash material and puckering in silk or woolen goods. Braid invariably Bhrinks in laundering more than other material. When the application Is to be made by hand alone, -writes a correspondent, place the braid on the right side Of the material close to the edge and backstitch the two together. The stitching should lie very near the edge,

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN, RENSSELAER, IND.

but not near enough to cause fraying. After the bnckstltching is completed fold in half and crease the braid and hem it down on the wrong side of the material. The braid should just cover the backstitchilfe on the wrong side and the hemming run close to it. 'ln the combination method the process is the same except that the first stitching is done on the machine. In the machine work special care must be taken to keep the braid sufficiently lax. To do the work by machine alone fold the braid in half, place the material between the folded halves and baste carefully; then with one stitching on tlie machine in the three thicknesses.

LATE ARRIVAL FROM PARIS

Above is shown a black silk afternoon gown with overskirt effect. A cluster of black leaves at the bodice comprises a pleasing effect, while a string of black beads drapes from the shoulders. ~—: —

SOME NEW COLLAR FABRICS

Scrim of Coarse and Chinese Silk Among the Decorations for Neckwear. There was a time, long years ago, notes a fashion authority, when we used to wear high, stiffened collars of velvet and satin and silk. We considered those fabrics —velvet and satin and silk —quite the fabrics for collars In those days. Then, when collarless frocks came In, we wore collars of white wash fabrics, organdie and muslin of various sorts. For, of course, though our. frocks were coliarless, they had collurs just the same. That is, there were turned back and rolled over collars, even more important than the high ones that hugged and marred our necks used to be. So we ran along for years with collars and other sorts of neckwear of organdie and net and laee. Then, again, satin came into being as a neckwear fabric in first favor. And colored muslins of various sorts were also used. * And now there are even some other unusual materials in vogue for collars. One is* scrim, of a heavy, coarse weave, embroidered, which is used on some of the frocks of serge and satin. Chinese silk —that is to say, silk or satin much embroidered in the Chinese fashion —is another fabric now used for collars on serge frocks. Needless to say, this doesn’t mean that if you happen to have a hit of such silk on hand you can simply pin it deftly around the heck of your new blue serge frock and think you have a collar of the most up-to-date sort. No; but your dressmaker can use a bit of this silk for such a purpose by cutting it properly. And „ very probably she will reiterate the sara® colors in some embroidery or other part of the frock.

MODISH IDEAS

Full length jackets have their fullness gathered on rounded or shoulder yokes. . There are buttons, buttons everyr where, assuming all duties of ornamentation. A blouse of beige chiffon is frilled with many ruffles bound with navy blue crepe. The cape in all lts forms is ope of the most charming and serviceable of garments. ( Thp newest small hats are made entirely of vivid flowers, following the lines of the head.

New Dolman Capes.

The new dolman capes are dashing things. An especially beautiful one is of pearl gray velour de lalne, of many folds and graeefnUine. Its front and part has sleeves broadly cuffed In seal. There is a voluminous chin-chin of Seal and a wide bend of the same about the bottom.

WORLD WOULD BE CLEANER

Excellent Thing If the Profession of the ‘‘Spy" Can Be Altogether - Eliminated. ___ ■■ e We pray God that tlie next big thing the world will do will be to eliminate forever from the face of the earth that unspeakable creature known as the “spy.” In war it has sometimes become necessary for a good man to be a spy, but it was the direst necessity and nothing else that could induce him. Nathan Hale wag a spy, but he was such qniy to save the liberty of his country. His last words when he died were that he regretted that he had only one life to give in that holy cause. But, there are spies who are such by profession as well as by nature. And that kind of man is a creuture so low in the scale of humanity that a polecat is respectable compared to him. The spy is a person who will break bread with you, eat your salt, accept the kindly and hospitable shelter of your roof, worm himself into your affections, and then betray you. He will bite the hand that feeds him as a dog would do. He will send to death those who have taken liftp to the household of their hearts. A sublime effort is being made In the world’s" affairs now to let the light Jn on all the dark corners. The windows are to be flung open and the sunlight let in at the door. And, when this is done, the spy will disappear. He cannot endure in the light of day. His world is the world of tlie shadows. He must have the cover of darkness or he-cannot work. Of all crawling vermin that infest the earth the spy is tlie most detestable. He is the most poisonous of reptiles. The rattlesnake and sidewinder are scholars and gentlemen compared to him. Civilization will have taken almost its longest stride forward when the spy is removed from the scene of earth which he festers by his corrupting presence.—Exchange.

Molly Maguires.

The Molly Maguires originated in Ireland in 1843 during the rent troubles there. The name was derived from Cornelius Maguire, baron of Inniskillen. Molly was added because most of their raids were made while dressed in women’s clothes. The Pennsylvania society was organized in 1866, and was composed for the most part of Irishmen. For ten years prior to 1877 it terrorized the inhabitants of the coal mining sections of Pennsylvania. Murders were committed and vgst quantities of coal and other property were destroyed. In 1875 their depredations extended throughput the section and the militia had to be called out to suppress the disorders. After the militia had been withdrawn a number of brutal murders were committed, which resulted in an outburst of public wrath which forced arrests and the conviction and execution of ten members of the society. This put an end to the terrorism. —Brooklyn Eagle.

American Army University.

The American Army university, the largest university* in the Englishspeaking world, has been opened in Beaune, southeast of Paris. Fifteen thousand soldiers have enrolled i or a three months’ course. The faculty of 500 members, chiefly drawn from the American expeditionary forces, is headed by Col. Ira I. Reeves, formerly president of Norwich university in Vermont. The buildings now r serving as study halls and dortnitories were used during the war as an American hospital. A farm of 600 ’acres is used as the main agricultural college, while former work shops of the hospital supply quarters rire being utilized by classes in engineering. The university has opened a branch at Bellevue, near Versailles, for nearly 1,000 students of art and architecture.

Can Only Quess at History.

Now that the Venus of Milo, back from Toulouse, whither she went on an indefinite visit four years ago last August, is at home in the Louvre, she is entertaining a more cosmopolitan company of guests than has ever before thronged the galleries of that famous museum. ' Among those present are soldiers and civilians of all the allied nations. Her flight from Paris adds another notable episode, but her whole eventful history, from about the fourth century B. C„ when she is held to have been sculptured, to 1820, when she was found by a farmer in the island of Melos, can apparently never be written. It must remain problematical. like the much discussed question as to .what she was doing with her hands.? ,

Speed in the Air.

- By merely modifying wing curvature, airplanes of to-day could be made to fly at a speed of 250 miles an hour, according to a British captain who is considered an aeronautical authority. The obstacle that this would present, however, would be a minimum landing speed of about 150 miles an hour. Greater speed in the air is much to be desired, but no pilot is particularly anxious to bring his machine to earth at a rate such as that indicated.

Problem of the Future.

“The air Pullman has arrived.” “So I hpar.” “What will be, the status of the air Pullman porter? There will be no dust and cinders to brush off. What legitimate reason will he have,to extract a quarter or more from each aerial pasfn lr-* 1 ’ —FlH"‘vg h * m Age-Herald.

DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE ADVOCATES USE OF CHICKEN FAT IN MAKING PASTRIES

Clarified Fat Removed from Roasted Chicken and Cookies Shortened With Portion of It.

(Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture:) “Use Chicken fat, the most delicious of all cooking fats." Beneath this placard at a recent food exhibit was a roasted chicken, delicious looking and browned to a tempting turn, and a glass full of clarified fat, the excess fat of the chicken. “But,” said one practical woman as she stopped in front of the booth, “I would not know how to use it if I did take it out before I made the gravy. If it can be used satisfactorily, I’d like to know how.” The uniformed woman in the booth came forward smilingly. “I am glad you are interested in knowing how’, for learning to use all our available fats is one of the primary lessons in thrift these days. lam here for the purpose of telling the value of chicken fat and how to use it, to all who will stop and listen. So many people do not seem to know that chicken fat can be used as a substitute for any fat your recipes call for.” Use Only Four-Fifths the Quantity. Just then another woman came up. “Well, I had abominable luck substituting chicken fat for butter in my recipes. Someone told me just what you are saying now, but my cake fell and my pie crust was a sight.” “I am sorry about those cakes and pies,” said the home demonstration agent in charge of the booth, “but T am afraid this someone with whom you talked did not finish her discussion. The fact that your cake fell would lead you to believe that the mixture was too rich, wouldn’t it?” “But why would that be?” broke in the first woman. “Think of the butter you used to make which had some water in it, and to which you usually added salt. Now, chicken fat has *fao water in its content; it is a 100 per cent fat. Butter contains practically 85 per cent fat. Chicken fat also lacks the salt and the small amount of curd present hr fresh butter. The difference between chicken fat and butter fdr shortening, you see, is the difference in water content rather than fat, and that is why you should use less of the former.” “Then your directions would be to use less when you are using chicken fat in place of butter in cooking?” “Yes, use about four-fifths as much fat as the recipe with butter calls for and add extra salt.” “Thank you, I will try that,” said one.

ECONOMY PRACTICED IN MENDING CLOTHES

Old Skirt, Ready for Rag Bag, • Can Be Repaired. If Too Tight Around Hips, or Too Large, It Can Be Remade—Romper for Johnny or Jumper for Mary Can Be Made. (Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture.) Have you an old white skirt which you thought ready for the rag bag? What is the matter with it? It is too tight around the hips. Rip out the hem and if it is worn on the fold cut It off. Raise the skirt until It is large enough arouiftl the hips. Cut off the top and attach to an inner belt. Unless your old Inner belt is as good as new buy a new one, for the inner belt often makes the success or failure of a skirt. Even off the bottom, and if not too short, face it. Otherwise you will have to make a false hem. What is a false hem? It Is merely a strip of cloth, straight or bias, as preferred, which is set on the bottom of the skirt to represent a hem (not a facing). It may be of the same •or of contrasting material. Use a plaid or a striped material, add a touch to pockets or belt, and tehow your friends a brand-new sport skirt. Is your skirt too large? Either take up the seams or recut it into a new •style. Or, perhaps the top is too worn to use any more. Put on a new yoke of similar material. In case you have no more of the old material use any white material and wear the skirt with middy blonses or one of the newlong blonses. Yon might make a new middy blouse from the old skirt. Use the bottom of the skirt for the bottom of the blouse. Measure up the length desired and cut the top of the blouse by a plain waist pattern. Add sleeves, collar and belt of similar or contrasting material and you are ready for the next picnic. Does johnny need a new romper or a Sunday suit? Get out your pattern and arrange all of it on the unworn parts of the skirt before cutting. Slake It all white or trim it with colored scraps from the useful rag bag. The material Is strong enough to last Johnny a season and by that time he will' have outgrown lit. Or la it Mary

“I am not ready to give in yet,” said the other. “Chicken fat has a different flavor than butter and I would hesitate before I’d put it in my choicest white cake recipe for fear tt would flavor it” “Chicken fat does have a different flavor. When it is unclarifled I would suggest using it only in cakes and cookies which have quite definite flavors of their own. However, I wish you would try it in your cake recipe after rendering it carefully in the way noted on this slip. I think you will find nothing objectionable in the flavor then.” How to Render Chicken Fat. On the slip was printed: Heat the fat very slowly in a double boiler with whole milk (preferably sour). Use one-half cup milk to each pound of fat. Strain the rendered fat through a cloth and when it is set, lift fat from the milk which remains. “Chicken fat is valuable food,” she went on. -“for making other fats like suet, more usable. These harder fats, as beef and mutton suet, are much improved if rendered in the proportions of two parts to one of a soft fat, such as that obtained from the chicken. I would be well satisfied to uSe chicken fat altogether in my cooking, in preference to any other, could I get it, and it is the favorite fat of the French pastry cook.’% “But it doesn’t keep well,” said the conservative one, “and that makes It a nuisance.” Becomes Rancid. “It will become rancid and strongflavored,” the home demonstration agent agreed, “just as other fats will if mistreated. If you wish to save It keep it tightly covered, in a cool place, and you will have little trouble. “I hope you did not misunderstand me when I spoke of rendering chicken fat. It Is not necessary in many instances to go to th& trouble of rendering it. Chicken fat may be used for frying purposes Just as it is. When - it is used as shortening for muffins, spiced- cookies or chocolate cake, where its characteristic flavor will not be noticed as It might in white cake or pastry, it can be melted slowly and measured without clarifying. “Keep in mind that it is 100 per cent fat. Try a little experimenting and see if you do not find that you prefer It to any other shortening,” she said, as the woman started toward the next exhibit.

that Is in need? Make her a jumper dress to wear With thin white guimpes which you can make from your old waists. But you have no Mary or Johnny you don’t need another middy blouse? However,''you do need s vestee for /our tailored suit and that old pique, linen, or madras skirt will furnish the very latest material. Use your old vestee for a pattern or get a new style. Cut it double if you want ft lined with the same material or line it with lawn and have two vestees. Cover button molds with the same material, or use pearl or black bone buttons, and you have as stylish aD article as you’ll find in the shops and for a much smaller amount. And that green linen needs a new collai and cuff set which you can cut from the old skirt. ~ So take that old skirt out of the bag and look It over to see what wonder* you can perform.

Household Questions

Bread that stands too long as dough will surely be sour. * * * A drop of vanilla Improves the flavo* of a cup of coffee. • • * Prunes are much Improved by the addition of lemon peek * * * A shelf In the closet for shoes is far better than placing them od the floor. * • • The person who cares for fowls should move slowly and quietly -around them. Next time you make poultry dressing add 4 teaspoonful of cinnamon to give It a rich flavor. * • * Keep the little brush broom handy near the flour bin and brush everything that needs it before you empty a sack of flour into the bin. Candle light is one of the prettiest decorations but it often causes such a mess that one hesitates to use it. You may . avoid all this It you freeze the candls Immediately before using.