Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 92, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 19 April 1919 — New Paris Wraps Appeal to Women [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

New Paris Wraps Appeal to Women

Sketched this week Is one of the loveliest evening cloaks it is possible to imagine. It is one which was recently desigped by Paquin for the peace-conference festivities. The material of this regal wrap was deep smoke-gray charmeuse with a lining of gleaming silver tissue and fringes composed of long silver tassels on the wide, cape sleeves. The whole thing, writes a Paris correspondent, was so exceedingly original and rich that one felt in the presence of a falry-queen-garment. And yet the color was so subduedand subtle that the wrap might quite well be worn going to a restaurant dinner or an ordinary theater. It was only when it was thrown open and the dazzling lining revealed that Its richness made itself felt. This is a leading note of many of the new Paris models for evening wear. There are still considerable difficulties connected with getting about in the evening. Quite unexpected people find it necessary to walk to their friend’s houses, or even to the theaters, instead of driving, as formerly. Taxicabs are few and hard to find. There are still stringent rules connected with private automobiles. The metros and omnibuses are crowded to overflowing, hence the frequent necessity of walking in evening dress. .For this reason our best dressmakers are creating evening wraps which can, as Indicated, be worn in the street at night without attracting undue nbtice. Satins and velvets in soft neutral tints are very much in demand, but the linings of these demure wraps are -something to dream about. I have seen gorgeous gold and silver tissues worked over with brilliant silks and beads and then converted into linings for theater coats. Metallic Threads, Glistening Beads. I have also seen exquisite effects produced by the Introduction of metallic threads and glistening beads on fine Chantilly lace, the latter being mounted over an underlining of brighthued silk. The outline of the Paquin wrap is very new and it represents the latest notion of a famous dress artist. As you will see, the sleeves are so wide that they give the impression of capes, -while the collar is exaggeratedly large and vague in outline. This model would look charming if copied in black, with black jet tassels as a fringe for the sleeves and a lining of some bright-colored satin or brocade, or it might be made of a soft camel’s the jet tassels being retained and a lining of Chinese blue satin being introduced. I saw a driving wrap fashioned on very much the same lines as the model here illustrated. In this case the material was pale beige cashmere, with a lining of bro-

caded silk which showed blue flowers on a dull rose ground; there was a heavy fringe of beige silk tassels on either sleeve and a large roll-over collar of beaver fur. An admirable driving wrap, I can assure you. The second model, full-length figure, shows a quaint early spring wrap made of Venetian red bure, with a row of gray bone buttons down one side and handsome embroideries worked in rough gray wool. This is a Beer model arid one which has been greatly admired. The outline is simple, the wrap falling in long straight lines, but the sleeves are distinctly novel in outline, spreading out at the wrist in leg-o’-mutton fashion. Collar Muffles the Neck. Here again you have a “vague,” very large collar which muffles up the neck and makes a delightful frame for the • face. The combination of Venetian red and gray is very fashionable just now. It is seasonable and cheerful, two excellent qualities. In Worth’s ** a

showrooms I recently saw a splendid driving wrap made -of Venetian red camel’s-halr cloth which had a deep cape-collar of sable and a lining of tete de negre satin embroidered in black, white and dull blue silks. This wrap was very long, reaching to the hem of the dress, and at the shoulders It seemed ample, even unusually bunchy; but the hem clung in about the ankles and gave the peculiar outline which is typical of 1919. A lovely young actress —one of the adored beauties of Paris —had just launched a most effective novelty. This novelty fakes the form of a thick cord, with long tassel, of bright scarlet silk.'

In front there was an antique ornament, in plaque form, suspended from the cord, and at the back a big tassel weighted It down and made a splendid flash of color. This idea was taken from the scarlet cords and tassels worn by choir boys in some churches on ceremonious occasions. The color of the cord and tassel whs the brightest and most vivid scarlet, the ornament in front being of an antique nature, with a slight suggestion of “church” in its composition. On the head was one of the new cut jet bands which are placed very low on the forehead, almost touching the brows, and which completely circle the head and hair. The best cut jet is used for these pretty bafids. Draw Hair Right Off Forehead. It becomes more and more the fashion to draw the hair right off the forehead and to arrange it very high oft the top of the head,, the only soft curls showing being those which thrust themselves forward over the ears. This style of headdress is very distinguished but rather trying to any one who is not possessed of a small nose and pretty profile. But all sorts ot women, with all sorts of profiles, are adopting the fashion of drawing the hair away from the forehead, severely. And nowadays the hair is only very lightly waved, if waved at all. Side by side with this fashion we have a revival of “cropt” effects, the sort of headdress that Mrs. Vernon Castle has made so fashionable. The hair is not really cut short, but it is skillfully tucked away at either side to give a cropt outline. "Headache bands” are again very popular; quite large bands of soft silk or metallic tissue which are folded round the head and tied at one side in a coquettish bow. Craze for Jet Earring*. There is a craze for ultralong jet earrings raging in Paris at this mement. Thin, finely cut jet pear drop*, suspended from miniature chains of diamonds or seed pearls. These earrings are so long that they touch the neck. They are exceedingly decorative and with certain afternoon and evening dresses they give splendid results. I am not in favor of long earrings in the day time, in the street; nevertheless they are the fashion, and it is a fashion which seems likely to develop into an absolute rage. Cut jet in various forms is popular just now. At a recent important “first night” I saw a well-known Parisian beauty wearing a high dog collar made entirely of cut Jet, and this with a fragile costume of palest- rose chiffon. The strong touch of black was rather startling, but the ensemble was good, the note of jet being repeated in a square comb which held the high loops of fair hair in place. Cut-jet plaques attached to black silk cords are often thrown over a light-colored house dress, a long black silk tassel hanging low at the back.

Beautiful Evening Cloak in Deep Smoke-Gray Charmeuse Lined With Silver Tissue. Long Silver Tassels.

Quaint Early 'Spring Wrap In Venetian Red Bure, With Handsome Embroideries of Rough Gray Wool.