Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 29, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 February 1919 — Page 2

For Wear Under Skies That Shine

In this wport suit for wear under Skies that shlrie and in winds .that are balmy, we are at liberty to observe, as long as we like, a special kind of apparel. - -Outdoors and ; leisure are written in every line of the coat and skirt. The summery, brimmed hat pre-supposes sunshine, bright enough to require softening. It is for those who follow the summer or go to meet the spring along our southern coasts. One can imagine this suit in beige and oyster white, or in green and white or in other colors with white. Both the skirt and. the coat show how adaptable to needs of the. tourist the looms of the silk weavers have become. The skirt is of a heavy, crepy silk, a sort of exaggerated ere je weave that seems especially made for the handsomest of sport clothes, and whatever the color of the coat, the skirt is in white. There are a good many tones of white, although we think oHt as the absence of all color.

Pretty and Dependable School Frocks

Serge and gingham are as depend- | able for the school girl as bread and ' butter, and bear the same relation to ■ her wardrobe that her daily bread does ti her diet- Hence they are presented each year with whatever is new in styles, sandwiched in with them, to add zest to these old, reliable and well-loved materials. There are many new models In spring dresses for flappers and smaller girls, most of them made of washable fabrics and cut in one-piece effects without a waist Une. Biit an exception to this rule appears in the flapper dress pictured, which has a skirt set onto a skeleton waist, both made of serge. The skeleton is merely a txelt with susphpders attached, made of plain folds of serge. The belt fastens at the sides with bone buttons, for serge and bone are inseparable. The simple blouse has two fairly Mide plaits laid in the shoulder at tai-h side. It almost goes without buying that ti«e neck is round and flnhhed with a plaited trill, tor this la

The tinr appearing In this particular case Is a gray-—a cold oyster-shell white tl>nt Is very elegant. It seems there Is simply ho color that can be chosen" f. >rt!ic co; 11 111:: t w 111 r 11) r< -i 1 11 1 ■ bine well with this white. A row of big mother-of-pearl buttons,-set up the front of this plain skirt, are square Instead of round. The silk chosen for. the coat is similar in texture to the skirt, but the weave in it is varied to form a check-er-board pattern. It is a straight affair with a bit of tlare at the back and a belt of the silk that slips through slashes at the side. It extends across the front and curves upward at the center in a pretty but eccentric line. It fastens with one of the square but* tons used in the skirt. The flaring, turned-back cuffs are faced with white silk like that in the skirt, and so are "tlie Trig patch pockets that turn down and fasten with a button. The wide turnover collar utilizes a silk facing to bring becoming white next the face.

the most approved of all neck arrangements for present. These frills are bordered, in the blouse pictured. with a plain gingham of a darker shade than appears in the plaid of -the blouse. The same frills finish the This-same model is made with a wash silk or taffeta silk blouse in gingham patterns. These were introduced last spring, the plaids and check giving a utility suggestion which brought silk into the possibilities for children’s wear. But fine gingham!; these days are more to be desired than almbst any of the less 1 expensive silks. Cottens are very ; high-priced, and we may come to the i time when we will have to turn to silk to reduce the high cost of living. * & I- /■■ /• ■ „

The most suitable veil for the new leafier toque is . plgin and of a dull color, but has a narrow-beaded hem.

. the Evening republican, rensselaer, ind.

Ambition and Ability

By R. RAY BAKER

(Copyright, 1918, by McClure Newspaper Syndicate.) Ralph Long lacked two essentials to success —ambition and business ability.; Al ington. said he didn't have them. And those' two essentials were among the things she admired most in men. “How do you ever expect to get married on $lB a' week?” she wanted to know when they had their ‘‘final reckoning” on the night he asked his employer for a $2 raise and was told “the firm can't afford it; Iresides. you’re not worth it.” “It canXbe done,” Esther went on. jabbing a loose pin back Into her fluffy red hair. “If'old Wilbur won't give you a raise, why don't you dig out and try New York? Cut loose from_thisL, dead 'town. Ralph, and show them wiuft you’re made of In a regular city. “You’vebeen holding down that office job in Wilbur's canning factoryfive years for that same measly $lB a week, and If you'd had any ambition you would he manager -by this Time or you wouldn't be there at all. ’-If Ralph remonstrated. He had worked hard, but simply had been unable to “make the grade," he asserted, “'ibis is a pretty good job. anyhow.” he said, “and I might not able to get anywhere in the big town." Esther's attractive red lips curved downward in disgust, and she forthwith severed relations. There was no ring to hand back, because he had not been able to procure one, but she let him know in words that could not be misinterpreted that their engagement was a thing of the past “You can keep your A good job’ for ten years more if you like,” she said, “but I’m going to the big town myself, arid I'm going to make good in a regular position.”

She resigned her place as saleswoman in Boorbon’s department store, and a week later carried a handbag and a suit case to the railroad station, resolved to bid Brown City good-by forever. Ralph was there to see off and to ascertain if her decision was irrevocable. “Come on, Es; forget that big talk and settle down here,” he pleaded. ‘‘Never.” a steely glitter in her blue eyes. “It’s all over between us, Ralph. I like you; in fact, Tm very fond of you. but I must forget you, because my husband must be a man who has enough ambition anil ability to get to the front in the business world.” He set his lips firmly and shook hands with her and went back to his desk in the canning factory, but; made amiserable fallure of his work that afternoon and for several days thereafter. He did a deal of serious thinking. and his jaw seemed to become firmer and a resolute light shone from his gray eyes. Things went wrong with Esther. She arrived in New York with thirty dollars in money and a fortune in ambition. In one mopth the thirty had dwindled and the fortune was ebbing. If she had. had “folks at home” she would have written for assistance, but her parents were dead and the only relative she could claim was an uncle whose address was somewhere in America, just where she could not tell because he was a wanderer. True, there were many good friends back home—Ralph among them—-hut she preferred starvation To . letting them kiy>w that her prospects, which had been so alluring from a distance, had turned out to be a mirage. seemed to be no position —not even a mere Job—,foifEsther Remington in all New York. Her writ-, ten recommendation had no effect, because experience was what counted — and experience in Brown City was not the same as experience in New York. ■ J Although she answeretFeherv “help. Wanted" advertisement that seemed to fit her abilities even remotely, she could not find work. Either she was too late with her application or she lacked training for the job. Thus, at the end of a -month’s-’ weary search, Esther was in dire straits. Before long, how-ever. fortune favored her. The goddess didn’t smile at her. but she did lend a helping hand, and Esther obtained work in a laundry—sorting dirty clothes! She kept this Job a month, in lieu of something better, and lived from hand to mouth - on $6 week, eating cold food in her dingy room in a dilapidated house on a dismal street. Then something better .turned up. It was $o a week, with meals thrown in, as waitress in a restaurant, where the food was given a liberal coat of grease to make it slip down easily, instead of being cooked. However, the patrons of the place appeared to like ft. that way, for they came back for more each day. Esther was allowed to keep all her tips, but trie tips were ingratiating smirks, from the male gluttons and an occasional cold “thank you" or I “pleasant day” from the feminine I diners. '

If Esther had been able to save enough money tp pay her fare back to Brown City she would have been tempted to return. But she would not„ have yielded to the temptation, because she felt, that she had burned her bridges when she turned her back on the place of her birth for the great opportunities that beckoned. Every Sight when she crawled between" the torn sheets on the 2 by’4 bed she visioned the cieas, shady eld

.town where, slie hnd grown up, and she longed for a glimpse of Boorbon'fi stride HHd all her former associated there, and she wished she eould go canoeing on Mirror lake and have the moon shine, and—yea, it would have la-on rather nice to have Ralph wielding the paddle. At the end of two years, after surviving a variety of jobs. Esther held down a portion of the floor behind a dry goods counter In.lEe Climax five and ten cent store, and every Saturday night slie went out of the place with $9 in her pocket. Twice she asked for a raise,' and twice site was refused. “There are any number.of girls waiting to take yous place,” she was told. Nothing was saf<i about “affording" it, because the Climax covered a whole, block ami was doing more business than any two stores of the kind in the city. One F'riday evening, discouraged, heartsick, hungry, Esther walked across Seventh avenue, near Times square, immersed in thought. Her gaze fixed on an approaching autoinobile, she was struck by a big touring car coming from the opposite direction. She was knocked off her feet but was not seriously iniiiretLbecause. the driver applied the brakes in time to prevent a bad accident. The car stopped and a young man clad in a plain brown suit got out, picked Esther up in his arms and placed her in the front seat. Then he got in beside her and drove away.She was somewhat dazed and did not recognize the driver until they had gOug several blocks. By that time she was coming to her senses and she gazed in wonder at the face of the man beside her. “Can tlpit be you, Ralph Long?” she exclaimed, incredulously. He smiled and extended an arm to indicate lie was about to. turn a corner." = —--- “It can be—and it is,” he affirmed, as they went up Broadway. “Why —why —what are you doing here in New York?" she stammered. “I'm driving-this-catxt’Uie replied, as -he threw out the clutch and eased the machine through a traffic congestion. “I left Brown City soon after you did —to make good. And now I’m driving this car.” “Oh, a chauffeur!” she said, but the scorn that might have been in her tone two years ago was strangely lacking. “Where are you taking me?” she presently Inquired. “Dianer,” he said briefly. “The owner of the car won't care if I keep it out awhile.” During the meal she told her story without reserve, and he listened with grave interest. “That’s the way it is,” she said when she had finished. “And I want to tell, you,’Ralph, that I was all wrong and I’m sorry I didn’t marry you. If you—you—if you think you care for me still and- want me now you can have me. With your wages and mine we’ll be able to get along.” Ralph lighted a long, formidable cigar and looked across the table with a whimsical expression. “yf course I want you,” he declared. “But my ‘wages’ will support us. And now you’ve lost your job.” “What do you mean?” she asked, puzzled. "I mean that you’re fired from your job at the flve-and-ten,” he answered, as he blew a smoke ring ceilingward. “You see, I happen to be general man* ager of the Cliipax.”

REIGN OF DANDY IS OVER

Present-Day Mode of Dress Gives No Scope to Would-be “Glasses of Fashion.” V ... .. Arthur Symonds says in New Kepublic that it is adeplorable fact hut the reign of the dandy is over. He died with Barbey d’Aurevilly. who had other interests and occupations than his cravats and laces, and was rather an amateur than a practitioner in the art. (Jules Bairbey d’Aurevilly, an eccentric figure .in French literary circles of the nineteenth century.) The cause of a large part of it is the degeneration of costume. A man can be well dressed, in the afternoon if not in the evening;-when the mode leaves only an inch of choice here and there between one curve or another. But variety and elegance have gone wholly out of the best-cut coat, the more carefully calXml a ted trousers. With knee breeches and silk stockings and buckled shoes went every incitement to dress personally and to outdd others in what was not a fixed fashion. What form or substance of things could a dandy in these days find to work 'upon? The tying of a white linen tie is no longer an art; the stock with its dignity 1188 piace to the high, hideous, shining ansl uncomfortable starched collar. And the dullness of the things that men wear—the shapeless black funnel, with its inch of irrelevant brim which we cram diseomfortably over our heads! What dandy dare make himself conspicuous by even the extension of a brim or the loosening of those bandages of cloth vdilch wrap our body with a graceless rigidity. ?.... ~

Collections of Little Value.

v The/fe Js one American gentleman who. takes pride in the possession of 560 walking sticks, not that he uses all of them, but because his taste as a collector runs to walking sticks. One of the most curious specimens is made of United States postage stamps, and absorbed enough postage stamp* to transport 6.000 ordinary letters before the war. 4,000 at the present rate. This seems rather a' waste of good stamps, and to afford nothing like so desirable a walking stick as the kind that can be converted into a camp stool, if the owner feels like sitting down to looif at the scenery.

GAY GOWNS ARE MUCH IN FAVOR

Flashily Dressed Women Flitter Out Into the Sunshine of Welcome Peace. e SOME STYLES FOR THE SOUTH ■ i Season Affords Especially Good Chance to Show One's Self Off in Right Hues—lnfluence of Orient May Prevail. New York. —There Is no doubt that the signing of the armistice opened the lid to a box of butterflies, writes a fashion authority. In the form of gayly dressed women, they havte fluttered out into the sunshine of peace, and the vivid colorings splash about in social life in a way that enhances the exhilaration of the hour. No woman against the seduction of alluring clothes. Mind you, there are thousands of women who think they are and who argue, and reason, and protest against this seduc-

One-piece frock of gray jersey, embroidered In dark-blue wool, with a sash of crepe de chine.

tlon. But it is there. Have you ever known a woman who said that she cared nothing for good-looking clothes and yet spent two hours on her toilet and found several hours a week in which to overlook gowns? It is foolish to deny the pleasureable Impeachment that women care for clothes. Nothing in this world is so unwise as to create illusions about one’s self and one’s race. There are women who, do not carry out their secret desires; there are hundreds w’ho, whenever they try to carry them out make a dNmal fallure: there are others who, in the press and whirl of activities, hav" no time to permit their minds to dwell upon what they like in I costumery and no time to change their wishes into frocks. But the feeling remains in every woman’s heart that she would like to be well dressed, and when she represses with argument her delight in, and her desire for clothes, it is like seating the little colored boy on the steam valve Of the boiler of a Mississippi steamboat. t Mrs. Pankhurst’s View. Cyril Maude; the English actor, expatiated upon this subject at lunch thfe other day and told two stories to illustrate it. He said that Mrs. Pankhurst said to him: “Mr. Maude, you realize that I am a hard-working woman, don’t you? You have a firm belief that no woman has been more strenuously active in the world’s activities than I have. And yet, here is my secret desire. I want to be a butterfly. When this war is over, I wmit to be dressed like a butterfly and Btter to and fro in pleasure.” Mr. Maude went on to say that Mrs. Pankhurst added the last part of it in the most whimsical manner, showing that , she was a true woman to the core. ■ • ’ The second story was that no one could realize, in the work of munitions in England, why it was that over a thousand girls applied for work, to one factory in a day, while none could be gotten to, go to another factory. Upon investigation of the matter, the women, who all spoke out at once, said that it was because the successful munition factory had the most becoming caps in their uniforms! Mr. Maude added that it was necessary to change the caps and costumes in the other places before vhey could get the women to apply therefor work. Well, Mrs. Parkhurst is not the only woman who wanted t<y be a butterfly In so ardent a way that she burst from the chrysallis as soon as the armistice Cent into effect and turned herself out ito the sunshine-in radiant colors. At this season of the year, there is an especially good chance to show one's

I self off in bright hues, for the Southern season beckons, and even those who have not the money, the time or the inclination to drive in the Georgia woods, tp dance at night in the Georgia clubs, to swim in Palm Beach waters, or to frivol in Its coconut grove, can still fellow the trend of fashion that is launched for these resorts. There is nothing startlingly new in the silhouette that need frighen one away from the clothes one possesses, but all the'signs of the moment induce one to believe that the Orient will again rule in the contour of the figure. Nothing else could explain this definite change in the drapery of the skirt. It has tilted upward in back for a year; it now tilts up in front. American and French designers joined hands in making gowns that were reminiscent of the 1880 periods, and even though our insteps were covered, our heels were exposed. Today, even our street frocks wrinkle against our heela and show our insteps. Evening gowns show the ankle and a segment of the leg in front. Splendid Evening Gowns Go South. It did not need the impetus of the revival of Southern gayety to bring about the recrudescence of splendid evening frocks. They sprang into being as soon as peace opened the lid of the box. They were the first real but-. terflies that fluttered into the sunshine. There is one frock in red, green and gold brocade that shines like some of . the pieces of medieval armor found in European museums. There are other brocades in white that are embossed with crystals and jewels, and there are midnight blue, dull silver and deep red brocades that look as though they be —? long to a fifteenth century canvas tn the Louvre. Probably they were made before war broke o.ut and were then submerged by the demand for simple materials. None but an expert in the manufacture of cloth could tell from whence they came, but it was an interesting spectacle connected with the coming of peace—this leaping into the light of brocades that we have never seen. There is a peacock brocade which has been superbly handled in a gown that gives one an instant thought of a proud peacock sunning itself on an ancient garden wall. By this time the gown is well known in Europe, if not in America, for it was made to see the brilliant light that falls upon a high place. r ‘ Boxlike Effect. 4 It is obvious that the Americans will try to - exploit the boxlike silhouette launched by Paris last season, for many of the new gowns arranged for the South, as alleged, or really to start women into a new trend of fashion at the turn of the season, are cut on these square, shapeless lines that Callot, Cheruit and Doucet strove to make popular six months ago. sport suits which are sent South have the square Cheruit coat with its many pockets and loose, unconfining sleeves, and there are one-piece frocks cut after the manner of the Callot gown which resembles nothing so much as a coffee sack. Some of these

Biscuit-colored silk crepe trimmed with brown angora, and a pussy willowo design done in wool. Skirt gathered into a band in front, left loose in back.

robes are beltless, ask the house of Callot intended its gown to be, hut that is too difficult a fashion for the tall, broad-shouldered American. If she does wear it, one has a ridiculous desire to slash the herd of it, gather the two parts into a ruffle at the ankles, and behold a circus clown. With the ruffled collar at the slightly round neck, and the pathted lips of so many of our women, the illusion would be quite complete. " . (Copyrighted. 191» by the McClure Kew*. paper Syndicate.)