Evening Republican, Volume 22, Number 3, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 3 January 1919 — Must Clothe to Keep Body Warm [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Must Clothe to Keep Body Warm

“New York.-—The zerohour may have ended for the army, but Lt senda a shiver of memory, and. prospect through us. HeatlesH houses, icy streetKland t4»t& clothes served- to reduce our vifallty'lso seriously last winter that there are many medical -perts to rise up and say that the devastation of influenza was due to these causes. We were frozen by nature, fed bn substitutes, made miserable by lack of artificial heat, and our nervous resistance, which was called into intense activity to withstand these three plagues, has permitted us to Iqll easy victims to the fourth and the worst plague that leaped upon us from the ocean last autumn. The war ds over, but the cold approaehes. ’ Thb soldiers need not fear the zero hour, but the American wornen must Tear it, warns a prominent fashion correspondent. It may be that we will get up cold and go to bed cold. We may eat half-warm meals in front of half-hearted fires, and have our being in one small room, with a total disregard of the pleasanter amenities of life that civilization has led us to believe are permanent/* This is not pessimism. It is a retrospect of actualities. None of us escaped suffering last year. The rich and the poor went down alike under the presence of intense cold and lack of coal, just as clean and flirty, wealthy and pauper went down under the Influenza germ. None were spared the presence of danger last year. The multimillionaire lived in one room and triedLlft heat it with whatever sticks and stones she could buy or borrow, in the same comf ortless way as her sister of the submerged tenth. Warmth Is the Fashioh. Let us say that it Is the fashion to wear warm clothes, and the individual will follow the fashion as the customs of a country follow its flag. We move in herds, and all the civilization in the world has not been able to eradicate this primordial instinct. So when you go out to buy your winter outfit, say to yourself that warmth is the fashion; that protection to the body by proper apparel is smart; that peltry, velours, quilted linings, high shoes, big neckpieces, muffs for the hands, and even foot warmers for the feet, are the very height of style. To dress in transparbrh: clothes is to show oire’s self behind the times. To wear negligible costumery that half covers the body at three o’clock, during" one’s self unobservant of the rules of the game. And not only must we wear warm clothes on the street, but they may be necessary for the house. In fact, it is very probable that they will be. There is small doubt about it under the new fuel request, which is that every room shall have a thermometer, and that not a single thermometer in America

shall go above 68 degrees. Now, you’re ■not used to 68 degrees in the house. Many of us are used to 80, and the majority of us will shiver for the first few weeks under the new regulation. We may take as our only comfort that fact that this temperature Is supposed to be healthful; but, mind you. it is only healthy when the body is warm. No medical expert, however great, will try to convince you otherwise. Therefore, the clothes that are Tto be chosen for the house, as well as those for the street, must be protective. And because of this new ruling, which comes through the federal regulations, there is an entire output of new types of house gowns that we once thought impossibly old fashioned for American women. Warm Medieval Blouse. It is an old story to talk about France the medieval cuirass blouse, but it is a rather new story in America. Those who preached this; doctrine of dress last year were not regarded as sincere prophets, and we did not go into the exploitation of the thick cuirass blouse until this autumn, after France hadbad eight months of * steady usage of the idea. Now w f e are quite enamored of the whole scheme of dress. The necessity for being warm has brought about the

necessity for wearing sbrnething tt> the house and in the street that is more protection .than a wash shirtwaist. Georgette crepe, Chinese silk, handkerchieflineflk are not aids to heat inthe and even though we may wear coats with our shirts indoors as well as tn the open, we like the pnttection of these new padded blouses, that are made of chamois, matelasse, quilted satin or brocade, interlined with flannel. It is only under the fur

coat or the short jacket made of leather and sheepskin that we can stand the thinness of the conventional wash waist, which has given us the best service for nearly two decades. The cuirass Mouse puts many a separate skirt into first fashion, and that is a bit of economy that every woman likes to- endorse; but more than that, it gives a snug security against the wind and the snow, as well as the chill of a sixty-eight-degree sitting room. It is an ornate substitute for the sweater. Service Coats for Women. Those who design clothes are not averse to a new output to meet new fuel laws. They are quite happy to supply women with a variant on the accepted style of winter costumery. They have rung so many changes on chiffon and satin, on crepe and serge, that they are willing to go in for velours and angora, for skirts of heavy velveteen. They quite endorse the idea of Immense pieces of peltry, worn in the house as well as on the street, and they exploit new types of jackets that protect the body. It means a brisk trade to them; it changes the dullness of autumn into the optimism of winter. Chief among the new outdoor wraps tlrat have-Appeared—since—tliA cold - weather made its first approach is a service coat designed by one of the leading furriers of France and America. It has caught the fancy of every w^marf^who Tikes something that suggests the military. It is a genuine service coat, copied from those worn by the soldiers, which were first fashioned in Great Britain, who has led all |the world in smartness and comfort in uniforms. It is of nutriq, which is a poor cousin of beaver; it Is heavily lined, and yet it is not awkward in its lines through bulkiness. There is a Sam Brown belt; also a broad waist belt of leather, and the four immense pockets, which hold all the packages one needs to carry, are fastened "with big leather buttons to match those down the front. There is a high rolling collar of leather and nutria combined, which is made to stand up when required and fasten under the Chin with a big leather button. Smart women who are out in these coats carry one of the new, short, fashionable umbrellas, that are made to look like officers’ sticks. The British “Warm.” The American artillery officer who, after the first months of winter in France, laid dll he desired was a German helmet and a British “warm, has been echoed, as far as the latter part of the wish goes, by the American women, who have discovered that the British “warm” is about the most delightful bit of covering that has been Invented for an unpleasant spell of weather. — A woman- bronght the first one to this country, as far as sartorial history tells it, and she solfl It to a man, who was so excited over it -that he tried to get dozens over for other men. Now the women can buy them over here and wear them with content. They are made of leather and lined with Sheepskin in its rough undyed state. The buttons are leather, the pockets are capacious, and the high collar is cut on good lines. (Copyright, ISIS, by McClure Newspaper Syndicate.) -

Service, coat of nutria, with Sam Brown belt and buttons of brown leather. It Is modeled after the regulation British coat, and is worn by women not in uniform as well as those in uniform.

British "warm” worn by officers over there, and now adopted by Ameri- = can women for street use. Lt is made of bright yeHow leather and lined with rough, undyed sheepskin. It has capacious pockets and is fastened With big leather buttons.