Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 264, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 9 November 1918 — FALL AND WINTER WEARING APPAREL [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FALL AND WINTER WEARING APPAREL

New Yorfc —French and American gowns have both appeared in force since the first of October, notes a leading fashion correspondent. They were in existence since the first of September, but the public usually permits the people in the trade to use September for their own selection and purchasing, while it wears what it has on hand pud looks at clothes with interest, but not always with the Intention to buy. The demand for conservation has struck to the heart of the public, and the month /of September was their best chance to use their ingenuity in old costumes and see what could be done In the way of alteration and renovation. « It must be truthfully said that not much was done. It is difficult to tell of the process of re-establishing old clothes that goes on in small centers, but in the great cities the people who sell clothes report an extraordinarily good season beginning the first of September. Behind this fact is a significant reason, and it has to do with the position of women In labor. It is a tremendous situation, and it has not been done full

this idea, continued to create' one'piece frocks of soft thin materials to be worn under heavy coats. America makes her coat suits of heavy materials and trims them with fur. Both use a quantity of soft velvet for evening gowns, and Paris uses more metallic fabrics for new Idndstof cuirass bodices to join up with heavy street skirts. America relies more on the separate bodice, to be bought at the shops, made of georgette, fifie muslin, ehtffon orlace> France uses more black, elaborately trimmed with metal and colors, for evening and afternoon,' and America uses more soft>brlght blue and flame color for evening gowns. France does not show as much gray as we expected. It might be said that the only strong, essential point of difference is the draped skirt for evening instead of the straight former American and the latter French; and also the shortness of the tailored suit as the French make it and its lengthened hem as the Americans make it. Substitute for Tailored Suit. 1 - As a compromise between the coat suit and the slim frock which many

justice by those who reason out the processes of cause and effect. The majority of women are too active today to feel that they have time to superintend the seamstress. Their advent into the business world has given them somewhat the point of view of a man concerning the alteration of clothes. They feel that time, vitality and money spent, with the result debatable, is not efficiency. As an offset to this viewpoint there is the necessity for alteration in thousands of households, where the income has not been enlarged and where the clothes must be worn as they are, in and out of fashion, or altered with caution and care. Need for French Gowns. Then, if these conditions are true, asks the public, why the expensive French gowns? To serve as inspiration for the dressmakers, is the answer. « - X | Since the day after Labor day those of us who are going through the semiannual process of absorbing or buying the new fashions for purposes of trade, have seen French and American gowns paraded before the eyes in numbers that soon lost their significance. The vision has become weary; the brain has refused to record impressions. The buyers brought home from France whatever they thought was available for inspiration or might serve as a copy outright, and the American dressmakers and designers, even those who have no idea of abandoning Paris for inspiration, turned out thousands of gowns in which there was no French label and no dishonest trick or unworthy lying about the origin. In truth, some of the importers who have the most powerful trade say that their best clientele were delighted to get and wear American gowns. French and American gowns show two types of clothes—the slim straight line, and the slim draped line. America and France show the instep or toe-length skirt for house and evening, and America lengthens her tailored costumes for the street, while Paris shortens them. Trim Coats With Fur. America believes in the reinstating of the coat and skirt for everyday usage, and Taris, while agreeing to ...

women choose for autumn street wear there is a costume which may soon be overridden by popularity. It consists of a narrow skirt and* a tunic blouse that falls below the hips and is-loosely girdled with a monastic corii. The blouse has no visible fastening. It apparently does not open. In truth some of them do not open. They slip over the head and adjust themselves with the carelessness of a peasant’s smock. If they were tightly banded at the waistline with yards of brilliant material they would be definitely -Arabian and quite brilliant ip effect. They do not permit a girdle to touch them. They have a monk’s cord carelessly twisted below the waistline, knotted, and dropped in tasseled ends at front ST side. Position of One-Piece Frock. It is like discussing the war to touch upon the subject of the chances of the tailored suit as against the one-piece frock. The conservative people say that both types of street costume will be worn by the majority of - women. Those, however, Who feel that conservation in purchasing as well as in materials is needed, lean toward the one-piece frock if there is to be only one costume for the., street in autumn. They fee What it can be worn now with a large neckpiece of fur, and all winter under a top coat of fur or velours. There is not a good chance for last year’s tailored suits to be worn thia year, unless a woman was sufficiently fortunate then to buy an advance model. The changes, while they do not appear significant at first, are very much so when one gets into the swing of the season. The one-piece frock is undoubtedly in fashion,, and If you purchase one you can take your choice of these three materials—velours,, tricolette, and serge. AH the new designs seem (o be based on ttyise three foundation Stones. ; (Copyright, 1918, by McClurt Newspaper Syndicate.)

This coat-dress by Jenny Is of black satin and gray cloth, with.gray wool embroidery; notice the bottom of the collar and the neck of the frock art: finished with bands of embroidery, leaving ah open space between showing the neck. Drecoll designed the one-piece frock of beige-colored glove-skin cloth, with'barrel-shaped cape to match. The cape and skirt are trimmed with bands of the material, and there’s, a collar of mana* bout trimmed with brass buttons.