Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 241, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 October 1918 — Smart Hats for Those in Mourning [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Smart Hats for Those in Mourning

One does not look for novelty In mourning millinery, for It is in a distinctive class by Itself and it must be unobtrusive. Mourning hats follow the mode In shapes—keeping to those that are conservative In slzeand style, and rely upon special fabrics and fine craftsmanship in making for their character. No other millinery puts the skill of the modiste to severer testa. More and more it has been left to specialists who find it worth while to give all their attention to hats of this particular kind and to make each one of them a study.

There are several special weaves In silk that are recognized mourning fabrics, but black and white crape are not used for any other wear. Crape is the insignia of mourning. As originally manufactured It was a fragile material, but it is made very durable now by a waterproofing process which makes it practical for people of moderate means. Nuns veiling, grenadine and crepe georgette, and some heavier silks are used also for regulation mourning hats. Of the three chic models in the picture, two are of English crape and one Is of crepe georgette. There is never a season when mourning hats made of folds of crape are not In vogue. In the little hat at the left of the picture the shape is covered with narrow folds, part of them made of strips cut on the straight of die material and part of them on the bias. They are placed alternately, •o that the “rib” In the crape runs at right angles where the folds meet.

The narrow brim is faced with crape put on plain and the milliner has taken advantage of the vogue for beads and placed a row of dull black ones near the brim edge.

At the right a bonnet-like shape has its brim covered smoothly with georgette and beads set some distance apart about the edge. Georgette is wrinkled about the side crown and over the top crown, where it is extended into a veil that falls a little below the waist line. The third hat is of English crape and unusually Interesting because of the graceful frill of crape lined with chiffon embroidery that sweeps about the crown. It is finished with a narrow band and two covered balls of crape. These are all correct hats for mourning wear. But there is much latitude In the matter of mourning millinery and therefore considerable diversity In the hats worn during periods of mourning.