Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 237, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 9 October 1918 — NEW SILHOUETTE MAY BE ADOPTED [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

NEW SILHOUETTE MAY BE ADOPTED

New York.—One approaches the subject of a new silhouette these days with timidity, notes a fashion writer. One feels the shadow of the storm that is about to burst when fashion writers and designers say to the public that the lines of women’s clothes have changed, which means thaUWomen’s wardrobes must change if they remain in the picture of the hour. When we are in the throes of conservation and economy, the idea of a new silhouette is not altogether pleasing. It is snatched up with avidity by those who sell apparel, for they know it is a lure to the purse. But it is also snatched up by orators, the reformers, and thousands who ask women not to change the style of their clothes during the war. These do not snatch it up with avidity, but jump upon it and try to crush it by argument and vituperation. The French say, however, that to face a fact apd not theorize on a fancy is a far better way to meet life. Therefore, if the new silhouette is here, and if women will accept it by the thousands, it is far better to face it than to ignore it; it is wiser to realize that it must be managed on a basis of economy and conservation.' Argument has never had the slightest effect on fashions. The persuasive tones of the administration, asking that our material be spared by civilians because it is needed for the fighters, has had its result; but this is only in keeping with the uncomplaining attitude of America toward all restrictions during the war. The majority of women feel, and it seems that that feeling is right, that if they do not encroach upon the fabrics and workers needed by the government they can have as many new costumes as they wish, on whatever lines they please. Long Skirts Replace Short Ones. The fundamental fact in the silhouette is that skirts sweep the ankles and heels. To many women this is the fundamental fact, but to the designers and the reporters there is far more in the change than this. If women were to continue to wear plaited skirts on straight ’lnes, sweeping the ankles, and straight skirts that reached the toe-tips and were made to look less scanty by rippling tunics that extended to the ’:nee, one would still find that the old clothes would do. But the new long skirt is draped; it is draped upward at the back, and it is very, very slender in its outline. You can easily see that such a skirt will influence the bodice and the waistline. One cannot wear tunics over draped skirts. One cannot wear oriental sashes at the hip-line over draped skirts, as they did in 1880. There is so much that must go by the board with a skirt that is a grace-

ful revival of the old “pull-back,** which was held in place by short, strong elastics placed in the back widths of the skirt to pull it tight across the front of the figure. The normal waistline will undoubtedly come in with the draped skirt; 'or the basque, with its pointed front fastened in a straight line up to the collar-bone, may be revived. The corselet bodice is another garment that is possible, as it needs a straight line beneath it to keep the silhouette in harmony. It is said that wide dolman sleeves will be revived with these long draped skirts, as well as flat lace collars resting securely against the tightfitting neckline. All In the Future. All this, mind you, is in the future, as far as fashions for the mass are concerned. But it would be unfair to the women who are buying clothes today not'tb warn them of this .approaching change, and the belief Ijr

all those in authority that this silhouette will rule women’s clothes as the winter comes on. One thing, however; is quite certain in the minds of those who have authority : All skirts will be lengthened as the season advances under the influence of this new skirt. Women are’ already ripping out hems or adding new hems of. other material to skirts they are renovating. This is a wise thing for a woman to remember if she is in the throes of altering frocks that/will maintain her

wardrobe In good style until the actual cold weather demands warmer materials. Don’t let her be misled by the fact that the majority of women’s clothes worn and sold today have short skirts. All the betting on the racetrack of fashion is against their winning. It is far wiser to renovate a skirt for the future than for the present, if one considers the gown worth the price of .money and vitality that clever renovation requires. Speaking of Skirts, What About Hats? The first question that a woman asks when she is told that the long, pull-back skirt and the tight basque are arriving, concerns the best hat that will go with such a silhouette. The answer to her question depends on the nature of the place where she shops. It is probable that the information will be given her that the milliners have amassed a vast variety of head coverings, and that she can take her choice; but if she definitely Insists upon what is new, she will be told by those who know that the striking novelty is the revival of a man’s hat that has won a picturesque place for itself through several centuries of usage. „ x Once it was called the Musketeer, because of its upturned brim and its long feather; today it Is called the Anzac. Between the two classes 6f fighters there is no difference, except the progress of time. They fight with much the same principle to guide them, and both fight for the honor and safety of Trance. Today the Anzac hat comes into high fashion, and at the hour of the Australian fighters’ distinction. It is made of white, gray, black and mauve felt. Sometimes it has an insignia of no importance as a method of fastening up the brim to the crown, and again it has a thick, curling ostrich feather. It is the latter trlrming that is added to the felt hat when the costume is a slim, draped frock that reaches from collar-bone to tips of toes. There is a recrudescence of ostrich feathers over the land, and as all the milliners are insisting that hats shall be trimmed, there is every reason to believe that the African plume will be restored to fashion. , SO, throughout the warp and woof of the new fashions there runs a thread of economy, for the reason that much IS revived which has been shelved and may have been kept -Quite a little summary, don’t yon think, of the dead brought back to life? (Copyright 1918. by th® McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

New turban of white angora well down over the head. The frock is of dark blue velveteen, with plaited white collar and cuffs and a row of white pearly buttons on each. hip. The shoes and stockings are black and white.

Anzac fiat of pale-gray felt The crown is trimmed with a miniature cartridge belt made of gray faille ribbon. The ornament is a tiny red, white and blue jeweled flag. The frock Is of pale-gray satin and sWk voile, and is trimmed with tiny gray silk buttons. There Is a string sash tied In the back.