Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 206, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 9 September 1918 — Page 3

ABOUT OUR SHOES

Buttoned Footgear Uses More Leather Than the Laced. Spat* Likely to Be Strongly in Favor Again as Well as Knitted Woolen Stockings. ■?' ■' - r Every woman with her eyes open inust have noticed that button shoes {are little worn, and no doubt the fact that lace shoes are, as a general thing, E eater and trimmer and more easily ept in condition has a good deal to jdo with this, declares a fashion writer. The fact that button shoes use up quite a little bit more leather than lace (shoes is the big reason behind their disappearance from fashion, say those who know. It does seem a very little leather to save, doesn’t it? But then this is the day when we-appreciate the (importance of very small things; the saving of a slice of bread a day, a lump of sugar or a half pound of meat —trifles that we are assured amount to enormous proportions in the aggregate. From the point of view of good sense pure and simple, we might wish that shoes for autumn were not going to be so thinly soled. Thicker soles are warmer and dryer and do not need repairing so often, but the government has decreed that for civilians no soles shall be of more than very moderate thickness, the exact thickness being set down by the rules in definite terms. Since the height of shoes is to be limited to eight and a half or nine Inches, there Is every reason to believe that low shoes will be worn tp a very great extent, even in cool weather. We are not in love with a low high shoe, though we find the Oxford entirely and, of course, if the nine-inch shoe is a conservation and patriotic shoe, the low shoe is even more so. To prevent the low shoe from being the cause of colds and chills, women will wear spats again as fondly as they did two seasons ago, or perhaps they will take to heavier stockings. Some women, you know, wore knitted woolen stockings last winter with low shoes, and found the combination warmer than high shoes .and the usual thin stockings.

LEGHORN HAT IS A FAVORITE

Some of This Season's Styles Are Embroidered Directly Upon the HatOther Decorations. '» '« • * ' Exquisitely simple was a leghorn hat of the ever-pleasing “plctbre” shape, with a flat crown and drooping brim. A wide blue ribbon of silver luster and velvety softness was drawn -around the high crown, covering it at one side and crushed at ■the other end in a loose bow with scarf ends which hung over the brim. /Tucked in about the lower edge of the ribbon were roses, alternating with tiny clusters of grapes. A very narrow binding of the blue edged the brim. Upon another large leghorn was laid, {to all appearances, an entire hat of lavender georgette crepe. The crown was soft; (he brim, stiffened with tiny wires, reached almost to the edge of the leghorn brim and was fastened securely to it. About the crown were more soft folds of the crepe. In front was a large cluster of lilacs, reddish Persian blooms and purple blossoms, opened to disclose their bluish petals.

NO WASTE IN WAR-TIME GOWN

The American designers are doing their utmost to eliminate waste on all materials, so as to meet the present war demands. This gown is one of the «nos£ striking In that respect Not an unnecessary inch of material has been usedi The gown pictured here is of navjKterge with long black fringe and aun rays, of silk In black.

SUIT FOR OCEAN BATHING

As a last gasp in practical bathing suits—purple wool Jersey slip-on, simply trimmed with a band of white; Jersey embroidered In black soutache. The one-piece undergarment is of black Jersey.

In the heart of the cluster were two blue roses. Some of this season’s leghorns are embroidered directly upon the hat, instead of having flower wreaths or clusters appliqued as embroideries, too, in solid diamonds, squares or scallops in conventional patterns all around the edge. One hat had a pattern of crimson triangles about the brim. A cluster of poppies' in the same shade was embroidered close up to the crown, but lay flat on the brim.

AMONG FASHIONS AND FADS

Interesting Notes That Will Aid Women in Selection of Styles That Are Mostly In Favcy-. A Breton sailor hat needs no trimming. Cuffs may be circular and slightly bell shaped. The long waistcoat seems to be much in favor. Every really smart frock boasts an apron effect. A coat of silk jersey cloth has collar of velour. The new bathing robes may be made of Scotch plaid. Many of the blouses are ornamented only by hemstitching. Openwork stockings should always be worn with pumps. Still, the frilly blouse has no rival among fashionable blouses. The newest silk blouses are made very much like the sweater. Plush hats become very smart when worn with dotted net veils. A dress of soft leather is heavily studded with beads of many colors. Umbrellas are going to be longer, slimmer and with ivory crook handles. Perfumes and sachets are supposed to have vanished since the war.

Soothes Burning Feet.

That burning sensation of the feet is all too often an accompaniment of hot, sultry weather, but may be partially, if not entirely, overcome with attention. Rest and keeping off the feet as much as possible is, of course, the most vital factor in the cure, and frequent bathing is another almost equally important. Wear easy shoes about the house and in the streets, avoid heavy soles and high heels, bathe the feet often in cold water and massage them with cocoa butter or olive oIL Dust a little talcum powder over the feet and into the shoes before wearing tight shoes or those that bind the ankle.

Summer Smock.

It would be impossible to create a more artistic garment for summer wear than the smock. Young girls and slender women find it exceptionally becoming. The loose and straight but pliable lines of the smock conceal and even beautify defects, simulating a pleasant roundness of figure. The materials used for them range from calico to georgette crepe. One very practical smock is very much like a large allover apron, for it buttons on the shoulders, is very long and shows huge pockets capable of holding any necessary articles, from knitting to fanning implements.

Have You Slender Ankles?

Women having thick ankles shoulu practice ankle exercises every morning and night Seated on a chair, bend the foot up and down from left to right, making each motion ten times before taking up the next Of course the shoes should be removed, and one foot exercised at a time. Another very good exercise consists in rising slowly on the toes, holding the position for a few seconds and sinking slowly back again. This should be repeated several times and the length of time the exercises are practiced increased from day to day. « '■

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN. RENSSELAER. IND.

BIRDS ARE VALUED

Carrier Pigeons Do Excellent Service for Army. Many Now'Being Trained at the University of Wisconsin Under the Direction of the Government— Made Splendid Record. Carrier pigeons for the army are now being trained at the University of Wisconsin, and special experiments with the birds are being carried on under the direction of the government This new war work has been taken up under the direction of Prof. L. J. Cole, head of the department of experimental breeding. Twenty-five young pigeons have been received from the signal corps for use In flying investigations, and 14 old birds for breeding purposes have been donated by a Cleveland pigeon fancier. / Lieut. W. L. Butler of the central department of the signal corps at Chicago and Maj. Frank Griftin of the Washington office were at the university recently making arrangements for the work. A warning not to shoot pigeons has been Issued by the bureau of information, at Washington on account of the large number of homing pigeons which are being trained in various parts of the country. Now that the training is also being carried on in Wisconsin, the people of that state are being warned not to shoot pigeons, and if any bird Is found bearing the label “U, S. A. O. 18,” the mark borne by all government pigeons, it should be reported to the chief signal officer at Washington. In the present war homing pigeons play ,a large part in the carrying of Important because they can fly home when telephones, telegraph and wireless have been destroyed, and are. rarely hit by gunfire. The process of training a pigeon for military purposes consists in first taking it about 1,000 yards from home and loosing it so that It can fly back; then the distance is increased and the direction changed a§ the training progresses. The average speed of a homing pigeon is from 1,400 to 1,700 yards a minute, although many make much higher speed than this. Important messages in the army are usually sent by two birds in order to insure spfe delivery and but few messages are lost. A small aluminum container is fastened to the birds’ legs to carry messages, or else the bits of paper are tied directly on the legs. Stories are recorded daily in the war of life-saving feats accomplished by homing pigeons. A crew of a vessel struck by a submarine recently had just time to free a homing pigeon before the ship sunk. Although the bird wah wounded by shots from the German submarine, it flew to another craft 12 miles away and saved the lives of the men floundering about in the water. Men are in great demand in the homing pigeon operator branch of the signal service. No man of draft age can be inducted into this service, but there is a call for men below twentyone and over thirty years of age for this work.

Not Charlie Chaplin but Lloyd George.

After a meeting which Lloyd George had attended a cheering band of admirers escorted the prime minister to his car. There, in the freedom of her rags and tatters, stood a typical cockney girl. She gazed at the enthusiasts with astonishment and then her eyes glistened as they fell on the features of Lloyd George. “It’s Charlie,” she cried. “Charlie Chaplin. Give another three cheers.” “No, my girl,” explained one of the crowd; “it is not Charlie Chaplin. It is the prime minister.” “Lloyd George? Good old Lloyd George. Give him six cheers.” Admiration could go no further.

Launching Seaplanes.

When a big seaplane Is to be launched from the deck of a ship it Is first' “timed up” on the launching stage. Then the ship is swung into the teeth of the wind and put at full speed. At a signal the pilot starts fils engine full speed, while two mechanics braced against cleats on the deck, hold back the tugging seaplane. When the “tone” of the engine is right, the wing commander brings down his flag with a sharp jerk, falls on his face to avoid a collision, and the machine freed from/ the grip of the men holding It, Jumps away into space from the launching stage.

Ribbons Substituted for Iron Crosses.

In Germany iron Is so scarce that enough cannot be spared to make all the Iron Crosses needed to carry out the government’s policy of wholesale distribution of war honors. At least, such a condition Is strongly indicated by a souvenir from a battlefield that ‘ has been received in this country. It is a black and white ribbon which the sender, a medical officer, asserts is one of many that/have been awarded In lieu of crosses. The ribbon was found on the body ,/of a dead enemy.—Popular Mechanics Magazine.

Cannon Balls Are Round.

Artist —There’s one good feature about this war: there won’t be any cannon balls to stack up in ugly piles in our parks. These old cannon balls are absolutely inappropriate for our public squares. Chclly—Still, you know, you can’t get square cannon balls, can you!— Cartoons Magarino,

IN THE LIMELIGHT

ITALY’S MAN OF THE HOUR

Though the world was ringing recently with the name of Gen. Armando Diaz, creator of the greatest victory his people have celebrated since they were knit together, in a modern nation, he is one of the least-known men in Italy. Too short a time in supreme command of the army to have gathered about him the tradition of anecdote woven around most successful generals, his own reticence and modesty have kept him somewhat out of the public eye. General Diaz comes of a noble faiplly. As the name suggests, it is of Spanish origin and the Italian branch doubtless dates from one of the frequent Spanish invasions of centuries ago when Italy was the battlefield for the world. Like Generals. Foch and Petain, General Diaz began his career as an artillery officer. He was educated at the famous Military Academy of Turin

and was graduated as a second lieutenant of artillery, in which branch of the service, he remained until he was made a captain. But there is in Italy a still higher education for army officers, known as the school of war, for which 60 pupils are selected every year from the entire army. General Diaz was one of these 60, and year after year was among, the few chosen to serve on the general staff. During the Libyan campaign he served In the field as colonel of the Ninety-third regiment of infantry. It was at the first battle of Zanzur, June 8, 1912, that he proved his quality as a commander of sharp decision. The main Italian positions had been assailed by the fanatical Arabs In six successive waves and the troops were in Imminent danger of giving way. It was then that Colonel Diaz, posted on the left with his regiment, delivered an impetuous bayonet charge upon the right flank of the enemy, throwing him into confusion and carrying the day for the Italians. Colonel Diaz was also present at the second battle of Zanzur. It was these two great actions, the most important of the Libyan tfar, that decided the Issue, and after the second victory peace was signed by Turkey within a month.

NO UNION HOURS FOR HER

play the piano a bit, or write letters home, before they depart. The first night we opened at D we had 680 men? come in at one o’clock. They ate us out of house and home. They carried off every magazine and paper we had. Their officers were fed, also, and when they came to leave the major shook my hand over and over again and said they were all happier and less homesick than at any time since they had left America.” ,

Joseph S. McCoy, statistical expert connected with the treasury department, is by education and training an expert mathematician. But much of the most valuable work Jie accomplishes for the government is less due to his mathematical knowledge than to his rare ability in utilizing the simple, elemental, commonplace facts that everybody knows. One of his most important duties is to tell the revenue committees of congress how much money may be derived, from any proposed taxation. In this work of forecasting McCoy has done wonderful things. For example, he estimated in 1913 that the income tax from corporations for the year ended June 30, 1915, would be about $39,000,000. He came within about 1144,000 of absolute accuracy. Every year he makes an estimate of what the total census of the country will be several years ahead. In 1901 he figured the

population of 1910. Nine years later the census bureau made an actual count. Allowing for the inevitable element of error in making such a count, the result jfliowed that McCoy’s figures were probably as nearly correct as those of the bureau; .

HIS ABLE WORK REWARDED

Noble, who. was a major at the time the war was declared, pas the honor graduate of the army medical school in 1904; the medical school of the Polytechnic institute in Alabama in 1891, and of Columbia university in 1899,

WIZARD WITH FIGURES

Canteen workers in the American Red Cuoss abroad do not observe union hours. Their work-day lasts as long as the opportunity holds to serve. Mrs. Belmont Tiffany of New York, now in France with the Red Cross, and her co-workers have been working 12 and 14 hours a day to make things more cheery and comfortable for our boys “over there.” “We feel,” Mrs. Tiffany writes, “that the least we should give our men are warmth and cleanliness and color whenever we can. War is such a dirty, ugly, sordid thing. Picture to yourself 50 dirty, tired men falling out of a cattle train where they have been cooped up two or three days with a detachment of mules, eating and sleeping with them. They have a few hours’ wait, so they take a hot •shower at the Red Cross canteen, and then have a - good meal, waited upon by cheerful, kindly American girls. Perhaps they

The senate has confirmed the nomination of Col. Robert E. Noble of the United States army medical department to be a brigadier general, and in so doing has recognized the accomplishment of an efficient officer in a position that has required courage and judgment. As chief of the personnel division of the department ,he has had to pass upon the qualifications and to assign to duty all the medical officers —more than 16,000 of them —who are now in the service, either in this country or abroad. Later, in addition to his other duties, 'he has been called upon to assume the office of director of hospitals bn this side of the Atlantic, and has completed arrangements for the care of more than 100.000 sick and wounded who may be returned from Europe or who may need hospital care in the United States. Brigadier General

MOUNTAIN SUE

By AGNES G. BROGAN.

(.Copyright, ISIB, Western Newspaper Union.) With a sigh of relief, John Burrows sank down beneath a sheltering pine, breathing In the clear mountain nlr. Here his longing for solitude could be realized; In undisturbed quiet, with the inspiration of ‘‘the everlasting hills,” he might store mind and memory with wonderful material of shade and color for paintings to come. John Burrows was an artist, and-his latest canvas promised future success. As he lighted his pipe he mused grimly that if it were his fortune to become a celebrity, he would remain permanently in isolation, rather than follow the entertainment and adulation attendant upon such honor. John’s friends had delighted to fete him, and he was heartily sick of Lt all. In the opinion of his oWn doting family, he was already a genius. Their wealth, he reflected, had much to do with his own achievement His dear, narrowminded mother would be already looking to find him a suitably aristocratic wife. His father’s usual pomposity would become more impressive than ever. Literally, John had run away; a deserted cabin was to be his present abode, a mountain guide installed as cook. John Burrows reveled in his freedom as he lay looking up at the sky. He wondered, idly, if he would ever marry; so many charming girls had left him heart-whole and untroubled; he fancied that love might be found nearer nature’s realm than in the haunts of society. This setting, for instance, would be aptly fitted for romance. His gaze wandered to a break in the underbrush beyond, then he stared in charmed astonishment. Holding back overhanging branches with her small brown hands stood a girl—such a girl! Eyes brown as any wood nymph’s, wide now, in startled wonder; crimson lips parted above even white teeth, a girl more lovely in her jjlnk. calico than the very loveliest wno had attended his studio teas. “Maid or vision,” murmured Burrows smiling reassuringly, “be not afraid, if you Intended passing this way, come along.” The girl shyly returned his smile. •‘l—wasn’t going nowhar,” she confessed. The quality of ,her voice was low and thrilling. “Jake, he cooks ter you, he told us ’bout you; strangers don’t much come our way, so I —” “So you thought you’d have a look at one,” the artist laughed as he finished her sentence. The girl nodded Ingenuously and seated herself An a fallen log, swinging her bare heels* to and fro. “Tell me,” she demanded, “’bout that place whar you come from.” Burrows told her of great cities and their hum and noise, .delighting in her eager face. Then while the sun went down behlnfl the pines, the girl Jumped to her feet. - } “I will dance for you,” she offered suddenly; her dark eyes twinkled back at him. “I dance with my shadow.” Motionless the artist sat, lost in admiration. Laughing softly she ended her dance before him. “Good-by,” said the girl, and was gone. John Burrows thought about v *r all the vay down the lonely trail, thought of her still as he sat in the starlight. Then he questioned Jake. Surely so beautiful a creature must be’ known through all the mountainside. Jake’s Information was brief. “The girl lived in a clearing above, with an old couple moved from town. She called herself Sue—‘Mountain Sue.’ ” But each day as the artist sought his chosen retreat, Sue was bound to appear. Sometimes sJje was there before him, sitting on the fallen log, swinging her small heels; sometimes she kept him waiting until his sketches went all awry and he Savagely broke the underbrush to watch for her. John Burrows forgot all In the love of a winsome mountain girl whose garb was calico. When' immediate business made It urgent that he return to the city, he—-remembered; and all through that night he fought with his problem. Love triumphed. In the morning John Burrows went to Mountain Sue and asked her to be his wife. Her answer was as elusive as herself. Sue had grown white for a moment; then quickly she had kissed him, and fled. At the house designated as her home he could learn nothing from the couple who were Its inmates. “The girt had gone »way; she might come back later,” they said. “Now she was gone.” Burrows was obliged to return home without further word. Had some idea of self-sacrifice caused little Sue to hide herself away from him? Gloomily he considered the question as he went through his mail. There were complimentary tickets among the pile, to see Jane Gordon, a famous actress. Across the ticket was written an unsigned message, “Please come.” Burrows did not try to place the donor; he went to the play, hoping to make short a troubled evening. “Jane Gordon.” the celebrated actress, was playing “Sue of the Mountain,” a feature of which would bo her famous shadow dance. And of course Jane Gordon was Sue, his little Sue! In solitude the great actress had been perfecting her part. But when she came to John Burrows after the play she looked up at him with Sue’s own happy smile. f ■* -I shall always be glad,” said Jane Gordon, “that you loved me in spite < •IL”