Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 178, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 August 1918 — AMERICA'S BLIGHTY [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

AMERICA'S BLIGHTY

by Gertrude Lynch

f— — OWN upon a beautiful French city D descended a foreign military force, capturing the place by storm, occupying it for eight days and then marching away, leaving the inhabitants cheering, and waving friendly _ adieux. For the foreign force was the first party of American permis- """"" slonaires —soldiers on leave —and the city was Aix-les-Bairis, the first American leave center in France. Here the French • saw the Americans at play and were satisfied. “Alx-les-Beans” the American boys pronounce it, at the imminent risk of the name being shortened to “The Beans.” Aix —a jewel, clear-cut, with brilliant facets set in a frame of gorgeous moonlight and of wonderful opaline sunsets and sunrises. This is the beauty spot to which are sent the boys in olive-drab, wearied by months in trench mud, under bursting shells. And this is the story of the first permissionaires to arrive in Aix —the American soldiers’ Blighty. On a certain bright Saturday a cosmopolitan crowd gathered at the railroad station all in a high state of anticipation. One could easily pick out the persons of prominence, the mayor, the doctors, lawyers and others of small but assured Incomes. And it might be noticed that the older women kept watchful eyes on the jeunne lilies who, tense with expectancy, gazed up the iron road along which the first permissionaires were to comet For who could tell what romance might not be on the way, romance excusing the fluttering of eyelids and the extra nicety of dress? As a special effort to make the incoming Americans feel right at home, the crowd featured a negro band and the local baseball nine, composed of small boys in scarlet jerseys and linen trousers, with legs bare as only a French boy ever dares wear them. The lads had small American flags tied around their arms, and their teeth were rattling with the cold, for the snow lay on the mountain sides and a refrigerated wind blew down from there. In the crowds also were American officers and visitors, Y. M. C. A. secretaries, canteen workers and uncatalogued spectators. Before the Americans arrived a dozen British aviators on their way to Italy changed trains and, seeing the throng, asked the reason. On being informed, they exclaimed with heartfelt approval: “Wish we were American permissionaires!” And well they might, for beautiful Aix, which in the happy days before 191 4 had attracted the discriminating visitors of all nations, was in more than gala dress this day, painting the lily, while military and civil representatives had assembled there to give welcome to the boys who had come from the Uest shores of the Atlantic to fight shoulder to shoulder with the French. These are the early arrivals of the American expeditionary force which landed In France last summer —regulars and volunteers. They had come from the trenches with scarcely an hour to prepare. They wore their trench helmets, their packs were on their backs, their clothes and boots covered with mud. their faces grimy, their hair disordered. Their train was two hours late, but the crowd has been waiting that time and the cold winds have not chilled the enthusiasm which greeted the appearance of the Yankees. . “It certainly did make an impression,” said one old regular of this reception. “We didn’t know what kind of a place it was and some of us were sore because we couldn’t go to Paris, while half of us didn’t have the money to see it through, or the right outfit. But I guess Uncle Sam had an Idea it would be just as well to let the French people know the American troops weren’t kept in bandboxes and tissue paper, but were in the fight.” There was no doubt in ‘the minds of those who watched the boys getting out of the cars that they had been at the front They were hungry and tired, having been 30 hours on the way, with only one stop-over, where the Red Cross unit had breakfast ready for them. But they were too accustomed to discipline to resist speech-making and hospitality, so they listened patiently to the provost marshal’s friendly admonitions to shun wine and women. No ban was? placed on song. Then-—on with the welcome! The negro band erupted into jazz and raggy noises, taking the Americans back home in spirit at least, following which a French orchestra swung gracefully into the strains of a “Suite de Massenete," and the permissionaires were escorted to their temporary homes. They were led through streets flanked by flag-draped balconies, from which pretty girls cried with familiar greeting : “Vive i’Amerique! Vive la Francg! Vive Oncie Sam 1” And that is how the first American permlsislonarles came to the A. E. F.’s Blighty, with a blare of trumpets, a Waving of flags, cheers, «mlles, sparkling eyes and, welcoming speech. Before them lay eight days of clean, delightful recreation amid beautiful scenes and —probably ibest of all —unlimited baths. “We’ve fed on mud," said one happy permlselonalre. “The rats come and sit on the edges of our straw and give usjb morning salute. We {haven’t had a real wash for so long that we’ve .almost forgotten how It feels to have that sense of self-respect that comes with the morning tub.” Aix, with its famous waters, baths and casinos, needs no Introduction to many men In the American expeditionary force. In the days before the •war it attracted thousands of Americans each reason, among them the late J. Pierpont Mor-

gan, who spent his birthday, April 17, there year after year. ♦ j Pictures and descriptions of Aix have been printed often enough for those who never have been there, but the picture which lives in the memory of the first party of American permissionaires is more vivid .and alluring than any other. If yoii take a collection of clean, bright, well-built villas, with broad sidewalks and asphalted streets, such as are constructed in prosperous American mountain and lake resorts, deck them with charming French or Italian gardens, place them on the slopes of hills and the edge of an emerald lake, frame the picture in ranges of snow-capped mountains, through which run zig-zag -roads, and you have an idea of the vista awaiting the American.boys. Several of the Americans were housed in the Hotel Lamartine, on the edge of the Lamartine woods, where the celebrated author wrote “Raphael.” The philosophic. Intellectual fighter will be sure tb find on the outskirts of Chanbery. a suburb of Alx-les-Balns, “Les Charmettes." that delightfully located home where Jean Jacques Rousseau lived a romance with Madame Warens, received royalty as his friends and wrote books. The permlssionaire cannot escape history in Aix, for he passes a crumbling Roman arch when he takes his way to the great bath establishment, in which, special rates had been made for his plunge and shower. If. he does not seek to elude but to study the past, our soldier may find plenty of Roman relics in the museums. There also are relics of an era when a mountain toppled ovfer, burying 16 hamlets and partly filling Lake Bourget, from whose depths the treasures have been retrieved. He can row across the lake to Hautecombe abbey, which stands on the sole bit of ground in this province still controlled by Italy. It contains 200 marble statues and the mausoleums of the dukes of Savoy. He will see where Hanjrfbal, 200 B. C., started his passage of Mhe Alps. He will walk where walked Charlemagne, Henry of Navarre, the khedives of Egypt, Elizabeth of Austria, Marie Pia of Portugal, kings of Great Britain,' Sweden, Norway, Belgium, Spain and the kings of high finance. So much for the historic and scenic features. The permlssionaire, however, may be seeking less classic relaxation on his leave, and it Is in abundance in Aix. Leave does not mean license to him, and among the many good things that may be said to his credit—loyalty, amiability, -good looks —let us not forget to give him a good mark for this, and we have it on the word of the inhabitants of Aix. Temptation may follow qlose, and not always can the boy 3,000 miles from home resist, but to his eternal glory be it said that he does not seek it. Also to the credit of Aix and the department of Savoy be it added that all possible precautions are taken to safeguard him. A few gambling houses there will always be. a few women will follow an army anywhere; there will, in a word, be lawbreakers ready to lure him and, in spite of warnings, there were grocers who surreptitiously sold bottles of liquor—not much, because the customer, rendered loquacious, confessed the place of sale and the vendor* were haled to the bar of justice. It 1* hot the Intention of trying to represent the permissionaires as Sunday school boys. But they are alive with health, quickened by the sense of liberty, and the paths of this lead naturally to sane‘recreation. Few of them cared to seek entertainment in dreary gambling places or illicit resorts when they could enjoy the beauties of nature and the wealth of healthy entertainment made available. The boys did not have to be herded into the straight and narrow path, either. A few second lieutenants were sent with the men, but the pffi-

cers showed discretion by not being obtrusive. The military police were equally wise. The Yankee was on his honor and responded nobly. By ifequest of the military authorities, the Y. M. C. A. has had charge of the entertainment of the men, this, it was understood tacitly, not to interfere with the men’s own ideas on the subject. To further this program, the Y. M. C. A. had leased the beautiful Casino, a veritabk house of recreation, its spacious roof covering a theater, a motion-pie-

ture hall, reading, writing, lecture , and vesper, rooms, with a canteen where little articles can be bought at low prices. . All entertainments excepting the theater are free, and for a franc a soldier may reserve a theater seat in the orchestra, which ls ; reserved for the military. The first night of his arrival the American permissionaire is admitted free to the theater and the canteen privileges. When the American staff selected Aix as the leave center this year, the Y. M. C. A. °^ went, to the resort and by vigorous work induced the proprietors of five of the largest hote s to opeir their places in preparation for the American soldiers’ arrival, despite the protests that it was not the season and .that they might suffer financial loss. z . . One prodigal son iimong the first permissionaires voiced a sentiment which had. supportera among those tired, car-cramped Ijoys, to theeffect that he did not Intend to be led aroufi(O>y the hand while on leave. Before he left this protestor paid a handsome tribute to the Y. M. C. A.s arrangements. The truth is, that before many hours had passed the permissionaires had, metaphorically speaking, come and put their hands to be taken, willing to be led anywhere it was deemed best. This development showed not only appreciation but practical sense, for all the arrangements had been made by the association and whatever there was to be done in the way of entertainment could be don# with less trouble and expense by taking advantage of the preliminary Y. M. C. A. program. - j Every pleasant morning squads of bicyclers start out. Automobiles are requisitioned to make visits to Chanbery and Challes-les-Eaux, the auxiliary leave centers. Boating on Lake Bourget attracts many. The negro band plays twice a week in the public square, and. in company with the happy villagers, resembling those in musical comedy, who always are ready to drop work and assist at the dramatic moments, the soldiers sits and suns himself, listening, to his favorite melodies. After dark, in addition to the program mentioned, he gives some of his own, wonderful stunt nights, costtime balls and amateur theatricals. K Then there are diversions which never could be put on any set program, because they are spontaneous, springing from the generosity of big hearts. Listen to bits of conversation in the Casino and you will get a sample. A smiling lad in olive drub is telling what he had been doing. “I’ve been having the time of my life,” he explained. “Three of us fellows went down into the village and we bought up a little shop of candy and truck and took it up to the schoolhouse. Wish you could have seen those kids when we distributed the stuff. You’d, have thought we were giving them something. And you ought to hear ’em sing!” One hears stories of dugouts, of communicating trenches, of lonely outposts, of salli&s into No Man’s Land, but most of all one heard among the first permissionaires violent reference* to That Hill which faces the sector into whicl hey first were sent. And their promise was, “We are going to get it if it takes every one of us.” Soft beds, baths, meals one ordered personally, theaters, concerts, rides, climbs, a general relaxation of the mental and physical strain —so went the glorious eight days of the first American permissionairies. Then came the day to leave, and the words of. appreciation were voiced by the men, whose business is fighting. J “We came here with a grouch because—we thought Ave ought to have been allowed to go to Paris,” said an old regular. “It’s been the greatest experience we ever had —not a dull moment. You treated us like home folks. We’ve lived like kings. -This is the most beautiful place God ever made, I guess.” % “Has It’ been a good time?” echoed a younger permlssionaire, one whose years Detray that he has not been long from the parental roof. “Too darn good! - It’s just like leaving home again!” There are other speeches of farewell delivered In subdued tone. “You’re sure that you’re engaged? If you, find you ain’t, will you let me know?” - A shrill whistle put an end to the farewell*. A shavetail shouted “All aboard!” which was better understood. The men crow<fed into the cars, and waved furiously from the windows to the hospitable townspeople as the train whirled away carrying them back, back to fight with renewed strength after a week In America’s BUghty.