Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 119, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 28 May 1918 — Neckline Given Drastic Change [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Neckline Given Drastic Change

New York. —The world that amuses or instructs itself by watching the changes in dress finds itself highly diverted in the,month of May. This is the time for settlement. February is full of rumors and cables from Paris concerning the gowns that are exploited there by the drfessmakers. During the month of March the clothes that arrive in America are shown first by the importers, who cater to the dressmakers, then by the dressmakers and shops, who cater to the public. After the first week of April the public takes a hand in the settlement of fashions and wears its new spring clothes at all hours, with reckless prodigality. Now, asserts a leading fashion authority, we come to the month of observation. We see what has failed and what has succeeded. We know what the public likes and what it has discarded. Established Neckline. In the settlement of fashions which comes this month there is one predominant feature that Interests the majority as well as the minority. It is the new arrangement of the neckline. This style has been creeping on us unawares since January, but it seems to have sprung out of ambush and attacked the people as the warm weather burst over the land. Those who were not observing fashion closely went about with their shirtwaist collars pulled out over the coat collars, or the wide collars of guimpes pulled out over the bare edge of a one-piece frock. (?■ Then, suddenly, the whole process seemed to be wrong. The careless public observed that the fastidious crowd had abandoned white coat collars. They also noticed that the neckline of a one-piece frock was not outlined by a collar except at the back. They noticed that sailor collars had disappeared from fashionable garments. They realized that the neckline, instead of being V-shaped, was square and deeply decollete, or deltashaped—the decolletage that we associate with Dresden shepherdesses, Dolly Varden styles, Mozartian opera and Janice Meredith. This kind of neckline was accepted only for frocks; it should go without saying that it was not contemplated for coats. But whatever the garment, its neckline was no more hidden and enveloped by a white collar. It is quite probable that this somersault in fashions disturbed the minds of more women than even the Incoming of the tight skirt, for it necessitated thought and an entire change In the arrangement of the garments which have been carelessly worn in the same combination for several seasons. It made one go into numerous shops and regard one’s self for numerous moments before mirrors in order to secure a satisfactory adjustment of the new fashion to one’s neck and face. High Collar on Coat Sults. And another movement in the arrangement of the neck is disquieting. It is the Introduction of the high colS

lar at an hour when the high fashion designers decided to discard it, and the public was informed that it was no longer in first fashion. No sooner had this edict gone out and been accepted than a vast number of women —well-dressed women, too—appeared with high loose collar, that either enveloped the chin or rolled in a loose fold beneath it There are two or three practical thing* that every woman must somehow manage to master in this new fashion If she intends to look her best during the warm-weather season. Qpe of them is that a coat suit requires some kind of collar at the back and sides of the neckline, to prevent

The sketch shows a gown of blade satin, with tight skirt and pointed apron lined with white. The slim bodice Is of white georgette crepe embroidered with bands of Jet beads.

the rough material from resting' against the skin. Another feature of the new neck arrangement which it is well to absorb into the mind is that the blouse with the Italian decolletage is the best to wear under all coats. It is wlr-r to avoid superimposing one collar on another. This Italian neckline may be round, or stragiht across the shoulders, or brought to the base of the neck. The wearer must decide on that. Her features should determine the exact curve which is employed. Low Neck for Day Usage. Another Interesting detail of fashion is the definite tendency toward a deep decollete for day usage. The neckline

may be on the Italian model, or it may be on the American Colonial model, which brings the material high and tight against the back and side of the neck and then dips it down to a deep square or delta in front. The Introduction of the high collar seems to have come about through necessity rather than choice or inclination. True, there are smart women who insist that their one-piece frocks shall have these up-standing, flowerlike collars that rise bn the stem of the neck and open out wide to envelop the chin and the back of the head, but the majority of women have adopted high collars only with coat suits. They don’t know any other kinds of collar to adjust with a jacket that Is high In the neck and has rolling revers. They find that the wash blouse, which has a high turn-over collar and Is worn with a cravat of black or colored plcot ribbon, gives just the right silhouette to the neckline of an everyday coat suit. If this high collar cannot be adopted, then a low one must be worn with the suit, because of its collarless condition. Strength of Surplice Jacket The lessened number of chiffon blouses shown this summer is indicative of the lessened number of tailored suits worn, so the workers claim: It Is true that the shops are filled with wash blouses, which are always in demand for many reasons. However, there is a large segment of AngloSaxon women who will not forsake the coat and skirt, and they will cling to it if not for humane reasons, in order to give men work, then for personal reasons. It is our uniform, and we know how. to wear It We are not nearly so sure of the one-piece frocks as we are of the well-cut, well-sewfed coat and skirt It Is futile, therefore, to speak of Its abolition while this strong feeling of approval exists for It tn this country, as In England. And because of this condition It Is well for women to realize that tire buttonless jacket or the surplice kind, is the one preferred. One might deduct. In looking at these surplice jackets, chemise robes, sllp-over-the-head tunics and Callot mummy gowns, that it is a buttonless era. We are to be tied into our clothes from now on. In truth, those startling Callot frocks for afternoon and evening, which strike the only really new note since 1915, give one a .quick memory of the ludicrous costumes of those who took part in picnic days, hopping along In coffee sacks tied at the feet, through a lane of cheering, excited pleasure seekers. (Copyright, 1918, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

The satin In this frock Is arranged as a redlngote to show a wide front panel of biscult-colored georgette boldly embroidered in black. The , sleeves are short, and the scarf l« attached to the frock.