Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 119, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 28 May 1918 — Page 3

Souvenir d’Amour

By MONA COWLES

{Copyright. 1918. by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.) The new sales girl In the little penfume shop on Maine street had broken a bottle of French perfume just as the clock pointed to twelve o’clock, and so it happened that shoppers and office workers, idlers and persons bent on business as they walked along the busy section of Main street that d. about lunch time were Impressed either pleasurably or otherwise by the penetrating odor of one of the most alluring of perfumes. For the perfume lad been spilled on the floor of the shop near the door, which was open to let in the first warm spring sunlight and it had been carried forth on the fresh air till it suffused the atmosphere for g hundred feet or more. Some who passed looked about as if to behold a tree in blossom in the vicinity; but whoever scented it felt curiosity, for there was that, in the extract that called up Indefinable and tantalizing recollections. Susan Beverly, as she alighted from her little electric that she drove herself and put. foot.on the curbstone, first sniffed vigorously and then looked about To her the perfume had potent associations that seemed to possess her imagination before she could put into form the nature of them. She whiffed again, looked around and then heard one of the girls who worked in the perfume shop say to another, as they stepped out of the shop on their way to luncheon; “Too bad she happened to break that bottle,” with an emphasis on the that. “It’s the most expensive perfume in the shop—souvenir d’amour’ ” —only she pronounced it “soovenire damoor.” “Sells for twelve dollars a bottle.” “Yes, it was too bad, and the madam says she’ll take it out of her wages.” “It's a shame to spill twelve dollars all at once. But it makes an elegant smell--” And the other girl agreed that it was “swell.” Long after Susan had passed out of the radius of the aroma of the spilled souvenir d’amour her mind was occupied with the train of associations it had called up. At first vague and ill defined, they gradually shaped themselves. By the time she reached her home on the outskirts of the city she was deep in recollection but her recollections were by no means melancholy. The detail of the little experience of the spilled perfume that assumed the largest proportions in her thoughts was that the bottle had cost twelve dollars. Twelve dollars was a g#od deal for anyone to spend for a gift. She reflected that people did not spent that much —especially when they were not especially well off —on persons for whom they had little regard. It seemed to her then that if she had always known that souvenir d’amour cost twelve dollars a bottle it might have made a difference. She had thought if she had thought about the cost of it at all—that it cost not more than a dollar a bottle. But though her thoughts were thus mercenary to begin with, eventually the seducive Influence of the perfume had its effect and, though she was far out of the radius of the sweet odor, In her Imagination she smelled it yet. It (haunted her like a vision that would not down —or a sweet, haunting melody that runs through the mind—only this was a vision or melody of the sense of smell and, they say, this sense is of the five the most persistent in its power of association. So from being quite cheerful about the recollections that it aroused, she became truly pensive. Susan was thirty and she had so often told herself that a spinster of that age has grown too old and too sensible for romantic recollections or sentiments that she believed it. It was just a. little disconcerting then when, as the afternoon wore on, she found her- > self in the mood of a love-struck girl of twenty. She had planned to spend the afternoon on the golf links getting In trim for the week-end tournament, but for o’clock found her reclining on a wicker long chair under the trees in the garden, shielded by the lilac hedge with an assortment of once favorite poets for diversion. This was not at all like the thirty-year-old Susan. It really did seem as if a drop of the perfume must have spattered on Susan’s frock so persistent were the memories !t hhd recalled. Eventually she rose from her chair, walked along the lilac row, retraced her steps, counted out the seventh lilac bush from the end, dnd then stood gazing down at the earth beneath the bush. She went off to the gardener’s hut and returned with a trowel, then she fell to work digging ■with the intensity of one sure of unearthing Captain Kid’s treasure in a •certain spot. Once the old gardener •came along and tasked her whether he might help her. She said something ebout wanting, to see the condition of the soil, and continued. Once she was interrupted by a member of her family; she hastily pressed back the sod when she saw him approaching, remimed her posture on the long chair end remained there till he had gone. Then she took up her digging. Her first excavation was not in the right place, nor the second, and it was *ot till she had made a third hole of about a foot’s depth in the ground that she found her treasure. As she lifted It up from the earth that clung around

it, it looked as if it might have been the tear bottle of some long interred Egyptian princess, but as she scraped off the mold from the sides it appeared to be modern glass. After a little effort she unloosed the stopper and leaned over the bottle for the scent there was no mistake about it. It was souvenir d’amour. “Twelve dollars a bottle,” sighed Susan to herself. And then she fell to thinking of what might have been. She pressed back the sod under the lilac bushes, carefully folded the moldy bottle in a handkerchief and resumed her seat. She was really in a most unusual mood. In the magic aroma of that scent Came rushing back sentiments and Illusions that she had long forgotten. The sensible, perfectly contented Susan went and, In her place came a Susan that was not entirely satisfied with the prosaic role of being Susan Beverly, and playing off golf tournaments. The truth was that Susan was being tormented by a return of the only sentiment approaching love that had ever marred the serene contentment of her existence; and the fact that she had successfully put it from her Tor five years—ever since she burled that bottle" of magic sweetness—did not make it any the less keen now that it returned with the sweet scent. She was thinking of Tom Canton. She wondered whether they would ever meet again. Surely he must sometimes return to his home town and sometimes he must think of the hours under the lilac bushes that spring time five years ago. But then, why should he? Susan herself had succeeded in putting away those thoughts and he was no less sensible than she. There was a sound along the gravel walk and Susan looked up to see Tom. She passed her hand across her eyes. It occurred to her at first that this vision was but the final and most tormenting effect of the magic perfume. But when she heard his voice calling her by name she knew that it wab reality. He called her Susan with all the ease of five years before, and Susan sat there on the long chair with Tom beside her just as they had sat five years before on a little rustic bench that had since been demolished. First they talked of generalities, the weather, the war and mutual friends. Then the conversation drifted back to the- key in which it had been pitched on evenings like this five years before. The five years that had between seemed as but a day gone by and sensible thirty-year-old Susan found hen muscular, athletic hands held in Tom’s with as complete surrender as in the days when they had played off fewer golf tournaments and were berhaps a little softer. Then—lt was no more Tom’s fault than Susan’s, and surely not Susan’s In the least —Susan’s head leaned on Tom’s shoulder and there were some stammered monosyllables about love, and, on first regaining a sensible way of looking at things, Susan wondered whether It all meant that they were engaged again. “It has all come so quickly,” she told him. “I thought if it ever did come there would be so much explaining and it would be so hard for us both to get back Into the old mood again. You see, with me it came about this way. I chanced to get a whiff of perfume like a bottle that you once sent me, five years ago. lam afraid f didn’t realize then that you really cared for me. After we had that misunderstanding I returned the letters and the gifts, but this perfume —well, I didn’t want to throw it away. That would have seemed sacrilege, and I couldn’t bear to use It because you had given it to me, and it reminded me of you. So I buried it here under the lilac hedge, And today I came out just ont of curiosity, I dug it ufl' again. There was a little left, and it’s the magic of that perfume that has brought back all the old feelings.” .. Susan took the mold-covered bottle from the handkerchief and rew forth the cork to let escape a breath of the sweet perfume. “That perfume seemed to me then to express your personality perfectly,” Tom said. “That’s why I bought ft for you. And you used to use it sometimes and —well, it had the same effect that the perfume of a woman a man loves always does. It was intoxicating. And then you lost Interest and I never came across that perfume again—except in my imagination—it’s painful how the memory of a perfume will haunt you—till today. Today on Main street some one must have spilled some. Anyway, I got a whiff of it and that was all I needed.* It brought the old longing back again and I just had to see ydu.” • And as Susan allowed her two hands to be clasped - eagerly in Tom’s she was trying to work out a plan whereby the little salesgirl who had spilled the precious perfume might be reimbursed for her loss. And It really Is strange how things happen—for if the little girl had not broken that bottle Susan Beverly and Tom Canton never would have been reunited.

World’s Dependence on Coal.

Our ehtire modern civilization rests on coal and its ally, petroleum. These are the principal sources of mechanical energy. The scientific method has advanced so far that it is conceivable at least that new sources of energy might be tapped. Power might imaginably be gotten directly from the sun. It might become practical to use the motion of the sea and the wind. Chemistry might discover something remotely akin to radium which would do man’s work. But without epochal discoveries and inventions the world as we now know it is Indissolubly dependent upon coaL

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN- RENSSELAER. TNI).

Neckline Given Drastic Change

New York. —The world that amuses or instructs itself by watching the changes in dress finds itself highly diverted in the,month of May. This is the time for settlement. February is full of rumors and cables from Paris concerning the gowns that are exploited there by the drfessmakers. During the month of March the clothes that arrive in America are shown first by the importers, who cater to the dressmakers, then by the dressmakers and shops, who cater to the public. After the first week of April the public takes a hand in the settlement of fashions and wears its new spring clothes at all hours, with reckless prodigality. Now, asserts a leading fashion authority, we come to the month of observation. We see what has failed and what has succeeded. We know what the public likes and what it has discarded. Established Neckline. In the settlement of fashions which comes this month there is one predominant feature that Interests the majority as well as the minority. It is the new arrangement of the neckline. This style has been creeping on us unawares since January, but it seems to have sprung out of ambush and attacked the people as the warm weather burst over the land. Those who were not observing fashion closely went about with their shirtwaist collars pulled out over the coat collars, or the wide collars of guimpes pulled out over the bare edge of a one-piece frock. (?■ Then, suddenly, the whole process seemed to be wrong. The careless public observed that the fastidious crowd had abandoned white coat collars. They also noticed that the neckline of a one-piece frock was not outlined by a collar except at the back. They noticed that sailor collars had disappeared from fashionable garments. They realized that the neckline, instead of being V-shaped, was square and deeply decollete, or deltashaped—the decolletage that we associate with Dresden shepherdesses, Dolly Varden styles, Mozartian opera and Janice Meredith. This kind of neckline was accepted only for frocks; it should go without saying that it was not contemplated for coats. But whatever the garment, its neckline was no more hidden and enveloped by a white collar. It is quite probable that this somersault in fashions disturbed the minds of more women than even the Incoming of the tight skirt, for it necessitated thought and an entire change In the arrangement of the garments which have been carelessly worn in the same combination for several seasons. It made one go into numerous shops and regard one’s self for numerous moments before mirrors in order to secure a satisfactory adjustment of the new fashion to one’s neck and face. High Collar on Coat Sults. And another movement in the arrangement of the neck is disquieting. It is the Introduction of the high colS

The sketch shows a gown of blade satin, with tight skirt and pointed apron lined with white. The slim bodice Is of white georgette crepe embroidered with bands of Jet beads.

lar at an hour when the high fashion designers decided to discard it, and the public was informed that it was no longer in first fashion. No sooner had this edict gone out and been accepted than a vast number of women —well-dressed women, too—appeared with high loose collar, that either enveloped the chin or rolled in a loose fold beneath it There are two or three practical thing* that every woman must somehow manage to master in this new fashion If she intends to look her best during the warm-weather season. Qpe of them is that a coat suit requires some kind of collar at the back and sides of the neckline, to prevent

the rough material from resting' against the skin. Another feature of the new neck arrangement which it is well to absorb into the mind is that the blouse with the Italian decolletage is the best to wear under all coats. It is wlr-r to avoid superimposing one collar on another. This Italian neckline may be round, or stragiht across the shoulders, or brought to the base of the neck. The wearer must decide on that. Her features should determine the exact curve which is employed. Low Neck for Day Usage. Another Interesting detail of fashion is the definite tendency toward a deep decollete for day usage. The neckline

The satin In this frock Is arranged as a redlngote to show a wide front panel of biscult-colored georgette boldly embroidered in black. The , sleeves are short, and the scarf l« attached to the frock.

may be on the Italian model, or it may be on the American Colonial model, which brings the material high and tight against the back and side of the neck and then dips it down to a deep square or delta in front. The Introduction of the high collar seems to have come about through necessity rather than choice or inclination. True, there are smart women who insist that their one-piece frocks shall have these up-standing, flowerlike collars that rise bn the stem of the neck and open out wide to envelop the chin and the back of the head, but the majority of women have adopted high collars only with coat suits. They don’t know any other kinds of collar to adjust with a jacket that Is high In the neck and has rolling revers. They find that the wash blouse, which has a high turn-over collar and Is worn with a cravat of black or colored plcot ribbon, gives just the right silhouette to the neckline of an everyday coat suit. If this high collar cannot be adopted, then a low one must be worn with the suit, because of its collarless condition. Strength of Surplice Jacket The lessened number of chiffon blouses shown this summer is indicative of the lessened number of tailored suits worn, so the workers claim: It Is true that the shops are filled with wash blouses, which are always in demand for many reasons. However, there is a large segment of AngloSaxon women who will not forsake the coat and skirt, and they will cling to it if not for humane reasons, in order to give men work, then for personal reasons. It is our uniform, and we know how. to wear It We are not nearly so sure of the one-piece frocks as we are of the well-cut, well-sewfed coat and skirt It Is futile, therefore, to speak of Its abolition while this strong feeling of approval exists for It tn this country, as In England. And because of this condition It Is well for women to realize that tire buttonless jacket or the surplice kind, is the one preferred. One might deduct. In looking at these surplice jackets, chemise robes, sllp-over-the-head tunics and Callot mummy gowns, that it is a buttonless era. We are to be tied into our clothes from now on. In truth, those startling Callot frocks for afternoon and evening, which strike the only really new note since 1915, give one a .quick memory of the ludicrous costumes of those who took part in picnic days, hopping along In coffee sacks tied at the feet, through a lane of cheering, excited pleasure seekers. (Copyright, 1918, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

Black satin is charmingly decorated with white crystal beads.

Famous Passes of Giacier Park

Gunsight Lake and Going-to-the-Sun Mountain From Gunsight Pass.

THERE are several passes of some celebrity connecting the east and west sides of Glacier National park across the Continental divide. All of them pass through scenery of much splendor. All of them command views on both sides which are among the great views of America. Three of these passes are in actual use; trails will be built across others when the public demand warrants. The most celebrated of the passes In actual use is Gunsight pass. From the east it is reached directly from St. Mary lake, and, by way of Plegan pass, from Lake McDermott. From the west it is reached from Lake McDonald, the trail passing the celebrated Sperry glacier. The pass is a U-shaped notch in the divide hanging like a child’s swing between Gunsight mountain and Mount Jackson. Just west of it lies Lake Ellen Wilson, one of Glacier’s greatest celebrities for beauty. Just east of it lies Gunsight lake, one of Glacier’s greatest celebrities for wildness. At the' foot of Gunsight lake an easy trail of two miles leads to the Blackfeet glacier, the largest in the park, the west lobe of which is readily reached and presents, within less than a mile of Ice, an admirable study of practically all the phenomena of living glaciers. Swiftcurrent pass crosses the Continental divide from Lake McDermott on the east; on the west side, one trail leads north to the Waterton lakes and Canada, another south to Lake McDonald. Four beautiful shelf glaciers may be seen from the east side of this pass, and from the crest of the pass, looking back east, a magnificent view is had of the lake-studded Swiftcurrent valley. Glacier Peak chalet, which stands on a lofty shelf just west of the pass,

Looking North From Summit of Swiftcurrent Pass.

THE GRIZZLY PASSED ON

After Viewing the Preparations of the Elk Herd, He Sought Dinner Elsewhere. “While we camped at 8,500 feet altitude near the head of Fawn creek in the Gallatin range of the northwestern part of the Yellowstone National park,” writes Vernon Bailey chief field naturalist of the United States biological survey In a book soon to be Issued by the national park service, “I could make out with a field glass elk herds on the high ridges, south, west, and north of the camp. By climbing cautiously, so as not to dlstrub the elk, up to 10,000 feet on Quadrant mountain south of camp I was soon in the midst of one of their choice summer ranges. “Small herds and scattered Individuals were seen over the big, open slopes above timber-line; bunches of old bulls with full-grown velvety horns lying on top of the ridges Where the wind was strongest and insects less troublesome; calves and yearlings playing over great snow banks on the cold slopes; and cows peacefully lying In meadows of rich, short grass and clover. Little streams and pools of ice-cold water were everywhere and the elk were a picture of contentment and satisfaction with their ideal summer home. “After watching them for about an hour a large grizzly bear that had been digging mice on a neighboring slope was seen walking across toward the elk. As he came in view their heads went up and the herds pear me gathered into one dense

is the principal objective for the thousands who travel this trail from Lake McDermott. It commands a gorgeous view of the great central valley, bordered with monster mountains, which leads north Into Canada. From the chalet a horse trail now building will soon cross the divide back again through Logan pass. A foot trail leads from the chalet to the top of the Garden Wall directly overlooking the Swiftcurrent and Grinnell glaciers. Another foot trail. Involving an hour’s steady climb, leads to the summit of Swiftcurrent mountain, from which one looks upon a complete circle of supreme view, including all of Glacier National park and generous glimpses of the Canadian mountains on the north, the great plains on the east, and the Rocky mountains on the south and west. Brown Pass Will Be Popular. Brown pass, the trail over which has been little Improved since the old game days because so few persons use It, Is destined to become one of the most celebrated passes in America. From the east side the trail leads from Waterton lake up Olson valley, amid scenery as sensational as it Is unusual, skirting lakes of Individuality and unusual beauty even for Glacier National park, and enters, at the pass, the amazingly wild and beautiful cirques at the head of Bowman lake. Here is disclosed some of the wildest scenery in the world. From the top of the pass, one trail drops down to Bowman lake, which it follows to its outlet and thence to a junction with the Flathead river road, over which the traveler reaches Lake McDonald. A second lake is planned to be built this summer to connect Brown pass, across sensational summits, with the wonderful cirques at the head of EJntjla valley.

mass of about 500, old and young, while the bear walked past close in front of them and on over the ridge, scarcely turning his head to notice them. The herd was a beautiful sight, 25 or 30 old bulls with sets of large horns towering above the numerous small sets, while the front ranks were mainly filled with anxious cows ready to give battle for the protection of their young. When the bear had disappeared they quietly dispersed to their grazing and seemed very little concerned.”

Camping in the Rockies.

The camp ground established at Bartholf park, Rocky Mountain National park last year, will be accessible this season by the completion of the automobile road, and a second camping place located. The great parklike valleys lying east of the Snowy range are well adapted for accommodating multitudes of recreation seekers not only in the numerous hotels and lodges but under their own canvas. In these days when motorists in rapidly increasing numbers are carrying tents and camping outfits of their own into other national parks, a demand has shown itself for similar privileges here where nature has provided so excellent an opportunity. With the accessibility of the Rocky Mountain National park to Denver and greater centers of population beyond, it is predicted that many besides motorists will pitch tents in the shadow of the Snowy range. Bartholf park Is well on the way to some of the grandest scenery la the Rocky mountains.