Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 105, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 11 May 1918 — SOME SOBER GOWNS [ARTICLE]

SOME SOBER GOWNS

Sensible and Economical Fabrics Not Disregarded. . . * 111 I Black Satin, Blue Serge, Gray Jersey Cloth and Shades of- Gaberdine Ruling Street Costumery. There is do disposition shown by the French designers,, as they have expressed their genius In the new clothes, to omit all the fabrics that are sensible and economical. Black satin, blue serge, gray jersey doth and several shades of gaberdine are ruling street costumery. Metal tissues and laces are lavishly used for the afternoon and the evening, but they are sobered by miles of chlffoh. Sturdy crepe de chine, which looks fragile and is not, is offered in the smartest gowns for the street. There are one-piece frocks as well as suits, and capes have superseded top coats. Elaborate and expensive embroidery'has given way to ornamentation by means of wool or tw r ine, and Intricate machine stitching is abandoned in favor of bits of applied material, straight rows of military braid or folda of corded satin. Lace is used as though Belgium had been reinstated and every one of the lace weavers working overtime. Flounces, capes, sleeves and panels of lace are dropped on narrow, slim undejslips of satin. Satin and serge are combined for those who want to wear a frock for the next six months without feeling uncomfortably warm or cold. Waistcoats, the styles of which were drawn from all the epochs preceding this one, are used in coats, which gives the economical woman a chance to refurbish her last year’s suit and feel herself quite in the picture. The French designers knew that they were offering a sop to the economists in promoting this accessory. > Sturdy pique has been revived for those who do not care to invest in handkerchief linen, perishable batiste or expensive flowered voile. These suits and frocks of pique are trimmed with velvet, as in older days, and all the dyes that France has manufactured for her own use have been brought to bear upon white and cream lace in order to make harmonious costumes; and this trick again gives the woman or slender means a chance to look exceedingly smart through the medium of dipping yellow lace in a small quantity of reliable dye. Paris has sent over a multiple number of short, straight jackets, with fronts that do not meet, and in the space between is a frilled front with a turnover collar and a dot.ted foulard cvavat. This little front is basted into the coat, and thereby saves one from using a whole shirtwaist, with its accompanying laundry bill.

roses which can be bought by the yard. Roses rolled from pink ribbon would answer just as w T ell. Another girl embroiders hers, using linen or a heavy ribbon, half an inch wide, and buttonholes the edges. Then she sews snaps on them, half on each end, and they are ready to clasp over any number of truant straps. A circle of French knots covers the sewing from the snaps. Ribbons with a bow on‘ one end, provided with snaps will do the work efficiently and artistically, too. The crocheter will find it easy to make these little clasps, finishing off the narrow band with a small crocheted rose or shamrock