Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 84, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 April 1918 — CONSERVATION IS FASHION KEYNOTE [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

CONSERVATION IS FASHION KEYNOTE

New York. —The new French fashions give us pause. They have a sudden and peculiar interest for us that we did not expect, observes a fashion authority. There is a Grecian revival of importance. There is the revival of the fashion which was once made so commonplace in this country that It became a joke; the long, straight, corslet frock to the knees, with the pleated flounce headed by a wide sash tied in the back. There are Chinese clothes galore. Chinese embroideries, sleeves, tassels, galloons and tunics flicker all through the first fashions. All that we have prophesied in this country concerning the cut-to-the-bone silhouette came true. Paris not only conserves wool, but evidently considers it necessary tq conserve all other materials.

There is nothing novel in fabrics, except the Egyptian tissues, the use of exceedingly soft patent leather and a new material that has a Roman stripe in It The French Revolution is represented in the broad, striped silks and other fabrics. Black and white stripes are not as much used as beige and blue, red and blue and gold and cream. Two months ago it was rumored that satin was commonplace this spring and not to be included in the best clothes. Either the rumor had foundation at the time, which is probable, or it had no foundation and was given to us in America from Paris without thought as to what It would mean In this country. We were all told to discard our satin gowns, and the reporters of fashion sent the idea through the channels of commerce. As it happens satin is the chief fabric used in Paris for the new gowns, disputing the place with georgette crepe, chantilly lace and weaves of silk net, plain and embroidered. Reviving Primitive Gowns. Possibly, the fact of first importance in the frocks that Paris sends to this country, is the revival of the kind of frocks which were worn by women in the earlier ages of the world. The designers in France who went back to Greece, took the gowns with which we are most familiar and reproduced them for our every-day usage. The most conspicuous of these show the antique lines to perfection. There is the loose decolletage at the top, caught on the shoulders with buckles; sometimes, there is the drapery failing backward from the arms; there Is the gold line at the edge of the flowing tunic and the narrow, limp skirt that is longer than most of the others offered for our choice. We do not think of Grecian costumery in colors; we always visualize it in dead white and gold. But a few of the

French designers have used the Idea and departed so far from white that one sees mixtures of green and gold and golden embroidery; also that curious gray-green that is called Tanagra, and here and there, touches of exceedingly well cut jet_ - Even the designers who go back into antiquity for their models do not sacrifice the fashionable silhouette, which is slimmer than ever. A few gowns and suits seem to have been cut by the same master hand, or directed by the same master mind. They are identical in idea and they will probably ba turned out as uniforms in this country. Otherwise, there is much novelty in the frocks, and the combination of materials which the conservation of wool demands, brings about an appearance of novelty that sometimes fioea het really exist Ike young generation has grown up

in the belief that a gown must be made of the same material, and therefore, whatever deviates in fashion from that accepted principle, is looked upon as a dangerous experiment or as something unique to be instantly accepted. There is no doubFthat the one-piece costume is no longer necessary to fashion or good taste. Danger lies in these piece-meal gowns, of which all writers have warned the public. Yet, the fashion is here and must be reckoned with. What About the Fabrics? The shops over this continent should find joy in the” fact that the French gowns are not built of uncommon and difficult fabrics. What was on the shelf last spring can be brought out this spring and sold to the most fasti-

dious customer. The dressmakers sere not in such good luck, and therefore, not in such high feather. The casual observer, looking over the French display, may say that gowns have changed so little that women need not put their hands in their purses., But the dressmakers and the reporters know that this is not so. Paris has changed everything sufficiently to lure women into renewing their wardrobes. The shops should reap an abundant harvest from this move In Paris. The minor dressmakers should make a great deal of money. As to the exceedingly high-priced dressmakers —those who begin at two hundred and fifty dollars for a gown—they are still nervous. - There is so much lace that we may be dressed, in it every day from four o’clock on. The Chantilly shawl has come back into fashion, and it is an easy prophecy that every woman who owns one will be trying to sell it before this month has turned into April. All the colored woolens, serge, Jersey, Cherult twill, gaberdine, satin, chiffon, and tulle are just where they were last year. What of the New Sults? The American woman has revived, her interest in coat suits. She went on a one-piece frock debauch a year ago and is slowly recovering from It. France turns out an astonishing number of gowns that are delectable, yet the suit is shown more consideration than has been accorded it for two years. In it will be more worn than in France. The tailors should have enough t« ■ do this spring to keep them from financial trouble. On every side smart women and others who are engaged in all kinds of office and open-air rellei work Insist that they need today a slim coat and skirt of wool. They know they can be patriotic enough to keep within the four and a half yard measurement, as the new silhouette does not demand more. They are eagerly accepting the fashion for a checked skirt and a plain coat, for a satin Zouave jacket and « woolen skirt, or the other way around. A vast number are demanding suits of twill gaberdine and serge which are made on severe lines, and this return ! to the early American fashion of a mannish costume for the - open air should be encouraged by every powerful means. In all the suits, no matter what the material or the choice of color or combined -colors, the skirt is narrow, although it need not be tucked tn at the hem, and the jacket is short. It reaches the top of the high girdle, It just escapes the curve of the hips, or it rests on the bone of the hips. (Copyright, IMS. by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

This New Spring Dinner Gown Is of Gray Satin, With Deep Girdle Tied at the Side. Over Bare Shouldersand Arms Is a Greek Cape of Gray Chiffon.

Sports Suit of White Fiber—Silk Jersey With Sleeveless Blouse Turned Up at Hem to Form Series of Pockets. All Edges Buttonholed With Canary Yellow Worsted.