Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 49, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 March 1918 — Woman’s Apparel and War Period [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Woman’s Apparel and War Period

New York.—The conservation of wool is an established fact in France and America, It is a fact'that will entirely change our conception of apparel. Silk will rule. The world has a surplus of other materials, it would seem, from statistics, and yet the foundation stone of conservation will extend throughout the fashionable clothes “for the period of the war.” The fundamental idea of saving has so penetrated the consciousness of our people, the propaganda is so widespread and vital, writes Alme Rltten-

Jersey frock for young girl. It is of black and white silk Jersey with' bands of black velvet embroidered in silver. There are long, loose sleeves.

house, that the historian of the future will surely look with extraordinary interest upon the psychological changethat took place in 100,000,000 people in eight months. There are changes In a nation that do not create surprise when they are thrust upon it by an Invading army in war, but the change in America is one of spirit. There is money a-plenty, men by the millions, Industries at full speed, and yet, with wealth and resources, 100,000,000 people have turned a somersault In their attitude toward material possessions.

Slim Little Clothes. The passion for conservation wiped out of existence the fashion for flowing robes made of plenteous material. Whenever a slim silhouette has been thrust into the fashions, whenever an extremely short and narrow skirt hat been offered to women, critics galoge have risen in their bickerings and denounced women as Immodest, indecent and vain to the uttermost degree. There Is no such bickering today, however.- The critics of women’s clothes remain silent. A man looks appraisingly at a woman gowned in a conservation costume and nods his head in approval, as though she carried a flag. There is no more talk about indecency. The talk hinges upon the patriotism shown in the slenderness of silhouette and in the scarcity of materials won. Therefore, fashion and national approval go hand in hand. Unless we are mockingly indecent and there is no chance of that today, there is none to rise and Call us outrageous. The excessive decolletage of two years ago would create a storm of protest In any public place. Giggling, painted women with mere belts held over their shoulders by slipping bands of rhinestones, would be frowned down by men in khaki and by those in civilian clothes. * And yet women may go on the street with skirts so short and narrow that they closely resemble trousers, and laced army boots or puttees that reach well above the calf of the leg, and not a glance is given them that expresses contempt or disapproval. The new suits in Paris, as well as those that are launched in America, show these skirts. Some are so narrow that they might cause discomfort if it were not that their shortness gave freedom of movement. Coats are short when they belong to suits. Army capes ripple down the figure when warmth is needed. The cape will be exceedingly smart this season, so you who have one of these 4 garments tucked In the closet, mind It well, for in a few weeks you may be able to swing it on with the bravado adopted by all those women who are in war activities or would like to be. ' The Exaggerated Waistcoat. Capes, and long waistcoats that reach half way to the knees, are substitutes for coats in the absence of suits, although the really smart thing is the Eton or the bolero jacket, as far as the American fashions are concerned. The early French clothes sent to this country before the present exhlbi-

tions In Paris showed the short jacket cut much after the manner of those worn by the French soldiers in Algiers, and often supplemented by the brilliant scarlet or yellow sash or an immense suede belt pulled through several buckles In front. The Eton jacket is not for the woman with hips, however, and unless she has been able to reduce her figure to the proportions of a planked shad. It is J wiser for her to look upon other models with more approval. There are short coats that hang, straight from the shoulders to a finger length below the waist and are slightly belted in such a manner that the waistline is casually defined. Because of its limitations, this short jacket cannot be the ruling fashion. None know that better than the French artists, so they have sent over loose coats of silk poplin, and the American designers have turned out a new cape which reaches to the hips, is slim in outline and fastens at the neck with a high rolling collar. The Revival of Lace. Starting out with the foundation stone of the new Paris fashions, which are based on the conservation of other materials than wool, and remembering well that you must not bulge or flare or to provoke discussion as to your extravagance in the usage of fabric, then it is wise to go on to the minor adjuncts of fashion. The revival of silk poplin is a bit of news that appeals to the majority of women. You know, this fabric makes admirable coat suits, and with the modern activity of nearly every woman in this country, there will not be such a wide demand as usual for frocks that need constant cleaning and laundering. The late spring and summer will probably usher in a vast array of women dressed in silk poplin. Shantung, the thinnest gaberdine, sptin and dark foulard. The tailored suit which is adopted by such numbers of women doing active relief work, has already set its impress upon the fashions, and it is quite probable, despite the talk of the dressmakers, that coat suits of silk poplin in black, beige, brown and blue will rise to unusual heights of popularity. Let us hope this may come about. Dinner gowns are of black, white and cream lace, and they are elaborately touched up with threads of silver and gold. Scant Jace flounces are draped over slim linings of satin and taffeta.

Gown worn at the Fol les Bergere. It was exploited by Mlle. Montville and is of midnight blue satin with paillettes of satin. Note how it is caught at 4 the ankles.

Lace bodices will be returned fojr usage under coat suits, and blouses that fall below the waist and are girdled with vividly colored ribbons, will be added to suits of white flannel, matelasse and jersey. By the way. white flannel has sidled into the limelight. Palm Beach approves of it. Smart women say they like it better than jersey. Once upon a time, it was the accepted summer garb of our leisure mllftonafre class of men, but we have no such class today, and the decks of yachts and pleasure craft have been placed in the category of ’ things that were. (Copyright, 1918, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)