Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 277, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 December 1917 — Popular French Models Copied [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Popular French Models Copied

New York. —The woman who has been going the rounds will be able to check off on her fingers the French models that have been over-copled already, although the season of wearing new clothes has scarcely begun. She may even know the names that have been given to these frocks in the Paris salon, but if, through lack of interest, she does not go that far, she knows the name of the maker and the source from which the gown sprang. There is the Bulloz gown which goes merrily on its way into the realms of the ready-to-wear departments. Its velours folds clings to many a figure.

and the broad gold mesh bag that covers the front of the figure and forms a peplum to the belt, dangles, and jangles at many a restaurant. The gown by Jenny called Ma Cneri, would bring its creator a snug little fortune if she had a royalty on every time it was copied. You know this gown, don’t you? It 18 of black velvet and white satin. It is quite simple, with its slim bodice that runs below the waistline into a rounded curve to which the skirt is slightly gathered, its cravat girdles that loosely encircle the waisL its loose, elbow sleeves finished with a turn-over cuff of white satin, and the broad, folded surplice-bib of white satin put around the neck and tucked into the waistline. Odd Origin of Name. Possibly, however, you do not know why Jenny named this gown Ma Cherle. It is a copy de luxe of the black and white uniform worn by the women who serve the soldiers in Paris at the restaurants and in the canteens. The American soldier has learned to call all these helpful and agreeable waitresses by the one French phrase he has quickly learned,! “Ma Cherle.” So Paris, with its quick love of a nickname, has adopted the title for its waitresses who serve the soldiers. Jenny quickly saw the possibilities of a popular gown in this friendly little salute and therefore copied the black and white uniform in velvet and satin, adding some brilliant, ornamental rhinestone buttons; and the American buyers swung it Into line as the biggest success of this season.

There are two other gowns that were Inspired by the sentiment between the French public and the American soldiers, and these are sweeping upward on the crest of the wave of popularity as well as Ma Cherie. One is Jeanne Lanvin’s Pershing, which is in a remarkable tone of army gray and what is called American blue. It could really be called Maryland blue along with the Maryland brown, for it is the exact shade of the wild ducks that one shoots and eats on the Maryland .shores. This Pershing gown looks somewha,t like an army overcoat. It hangs straight, in the form of a chemise, and is loosely and roughly girdled in. Lanvin has another cowboy costume that runs in the same channel with “Pershing.” It is of khaki cloth trimmed with Itself slashed Into the deep fringes by the Arizona men. It has a sturdy, slouchy, artistic air. It is quite adorable on the youngstejt who pitched on a cowboy hat of black panne velvet as an adjunct to its khaki tones. Then there is another , gown by Bulloz which is well known and which carries out bis idea of using the Persian tree of life as A means of ornamenting the skirt. You may remember that the sensational gown called “GriseUdis" which was worp last season by Mary Garden when she km ng the opera by that name, also had

This evening gown has a straight silhouette and is made of black chiffon velvet, with bodice and low girdle of white satin. The front of the bodice is braided with black silk, and the short sleeves are of white chiffon.

this symbolic Persian embroidery as Its claim to fame. Blazing Embroidery on Skirt. This new gown is of black tulle and satin, with slight cascades formed by ruffles that go across the front of the figure and ripple down the sides; these ruffles are edged with sliver ribbon, and they display, as though they were a lifted curtain, the audacious and blazing embroidery on the front of the skirt. In the center, just where these curtain ruffles are lifted, there is a huge Persian ornament that might have, been worn by Haroun-al-Raschid. This gown is for the few, not the many. It Is well that a woman should know most of the over-popular French models before she spends money on clothes, because if she is ignorant of these particular expressions of the fashion by certain designers, she Is apt to buy a gown of which she will become exceedingly weary before Christmas. However, she Is the only one who can judge whether or not she wants to wear what everyone else has, or something different. The shops have copied most of the French models, and will sell the originals at any price they can demand. The American copies are not exact and are often more adaptable to our social life and activities than the originals. We have progressed so far in fashions that we take the French silhouette, a peculiar kind of material ox trimming, a high neck or a long sleeve, and we make a salad of our own of these ingredients. This is as it should be.

The originality and Inventiveness of our apparel people have been expended on the one-piece frock and topcoat. This is the fundamental fact that one gathers from reviewing all the clothes by all the people. There are frocks that are warm enough for the street with a bit of fur or one of the swinging, army capes which have not been ousted from fashion by popularity. There are thin one-piece frocks thax need a sturdy coat over them to give protection. There are afternoon frocks that may serve, as far as color and fabric go, for, restaurant and theater frodjk with the addition of a fur coat. The tailored suit Is not offered for any kind of cerepionial occasion. It is worn ’by the Individualists and by those who feel that they are not comfortably dressed unless they are in this kind of conventional harness. One-Piece Frocks Popular. The girl who works, the woman who plays and the millionarle In Red Cross activities are different types of women who go in for the one-piece frock and get the variety which they Insist they need in life by adopting this kind of costumery. Never before has there been such a collection here of one-piece black velvet gowns. They great one at every glance of the 1 eye. N'o one has tried to make them portentlous or unduly ornamental. The severe <j»ones, which are the best ones, have the now famous surplice bodice which Is drawn

across the bust and passed around the waist to tie in the back or brought forward to tie ip the front. The skirt has a bias tunic to give slimness, or it is very slightly gathered and has an almost imperceptible inward curve at the hem. Velveteen is offered for serviceable frocks, and chiffon velvet for indoor gowns. Beige colored frocks trimmed with Kolinsky, putois and Hudson seal are common and yet altogether satisfying. When these thin frocks have fur hems, there is a velvet and fur coat that goes over them. ' i (Copyright, 1917. by the McClure Newapw , ~ . per Syndicate.)

Here is a primitive fur collar for the street It is a broad scarf of skunk lined with satin and pulled high over the shoulders to form a large skunk button. Barrel shaped muff made of the same peltry.