Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 257, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 November 1917 — Page 2

ART and CAMOUFLAGE

An organization is being trained in the science of ambush at American University:: It is their business to hide guns and material of war from our

Washington.—Of the novel units which are being organized for the first time in the military'history of the United States, probably the company of “camoufieurs” now in training at Camp American University will create the greatest popular interest; partly because it is composed of the leading artists, sculptors and architects in the country, but more from the unique task which the “camoufieurs'* have set •- themselves. Camouflaged not a new military term developed by the war. On the contrary, it is an old slang word of th e French stage, intendedto be descriptive of the makeup of the actors. In its military sense, in which it is now popularly known, the term refers to the art of so concealing or disguising an object that the enemy cannot recognize it for what it is. A peaceful rock is discovered when too late to be a death-dealing gun. A mound of earth heaped above a trench shows no sign of human occupancy, when the incautious enemy learns to his cost that the seeming mound w’as a row of Invisible helmets with a rifleman behind each. A hedge conceals a regiment, and'the onrushing German finds death lurking behind the cleverly contrived nest of shrubbery whose secret even his airplanes and his cameras had failed to reveal. , It is not surprising that the fascination of outwitting the enemy by means of brush, color and ingenious design should appeal to the artistic sense of our painters, sculptors and —engineers. It was this appeal which caused Barry Faulkner, the artist, and Sherry E. Fry, the sculptor, on uu evening some months ago, to call together In New York as many of their artist friends as they could assemble with the idea of organizing and offering to the government the services of the artists of America to aid the American troops in France to ambush the Germans. Camouflage] by the way, is only another name for ambush. It was first employed by the American Indian; perhaps not consciously, but with such Instinctive naturalness, that the Indian of history always appears to have been merged with the rock and the forest In which he fought. Opinion is divided as to whether the Indian realized the effectiveness of his own scheme of costume colors. However that may be, ambush always has been more than half the art of the fighting Indian, and the modern camouflage w’as his natural resort. When the white man came with the shotgun the Indian at first had the advantage, for he so blended with the landscape that the superior marksman could not * distinguish him, and the bow and arrow won many bloody triumphs over the gun. In the day of the short-range musket with which our early armies were equipped the necessity of concealrnent was__as great as in the days of the pioneer, and the woodsmen who fought in the Continental army and who picked off the British in 1812 had learned better than expose themselves to the enemy In red coats. Then came the long-range rifle, and the art of concealment and disguise became less serviceable. With the invention of the •_ airplane, however, the need of inge-1 _ nlous devices for hiding troops and equipment from the enemy again became vital, and the French developed it until It ranks with the best of their military achievements. It was knowledge of this need and of the new problems into the j science of war by the jggplane that | drew these artists in New i York. Nineteen responded to the first j

CHIVALRY IN THE SUBWAY

Man Surrendered Seat to Soldier, on Ground Hie Lady Friend May Not Have Him Long. * Good manners on the subway at any time are at their lowest jbb, which megns that it requires the Unusual to get * Beat-warmer to relinquish his coveted My've The other day It must have been the unusual, reports a New York correspondent. She was a sweet, fluffy-haired creature, and she was ac-

call and It was determined to start an organization of some kind and inquire of the government if the idea were worth developing. Fortunately about this time Gen. John J. Pershing went to France in command of the American expedition and it was not long before without inquiry of any. kind “from this side of the water, he began to cable back requests that a company" ■of camoufieurs be sent to France. Thus with simultaneous enterprise and patriotism the commanding-general wns demanding and the American artists were organizing a branch of the service which appears destined to play an important part in the activities of i the American troops on the battle front. The company began to grow and is .still growing. Evarts Tracy, one of. the leading architects of New York, had taken all the courses at Plattsburg and received a commission as major in the, Officers Reserve corps. He entered with enthusiasm into the Idea of organizing the artists and became the moving spirit of the enterprise. To make a long story short, a large company of artists, sculptors,architects, civil engineers and others who have won fame with brush and chisel — and many of them much money with 'thelr bralns and sktil—are now drilling and experlmenting ’at Gamp AmeEfc lean University. They must be soldiers also, as, well as artists, for no one who goes upon a foreign battlefield in the uniform of the United States is permitted to be there until he has learned how to take care of himself. The company ls under the capable command of Capt. Martin Nixon-Miller, U. S. R., from whom they get daily a gruelling course in military instruction.

A first lieutenant of the comyany is Homer Saint Gaudeqs, son of perhaps the_greatest of American sculptors and himself a stage director of note, as witness his Temarkable work with Maude Adams in the preparation and production of the wonderful effects and illusions In “Peter Pan” and “A Kiss for Cinderella.” Second in command is Lieut. Wilfred S. Conrow, the landscape painter. Both are graduates of Plattsburg, and so far highly successful with the task they’ have in hand. It might appear invidious to mention the distinguished professional men who compose this unusual company, but it seems appropriate to make special mention of Barry Faulkner, the New York artist, If only because he is a pupil of Abbott H. Thayer, the great figure painter, who early in life made a study of animals and discovered the law of the coloration of the animal first dared to differ with Darwin upon this subject, the British scientist having attributed the coloration to sex influence while Thayer, combining the faculty-df visualizing and noting the actual aspect of things in their relation to one another with his knowledge of the animal world, proclaimed that nature’s gift of color to her children of the forest enabled th?m to disappear quickly from the sight of their enemies. That the truth was stated by both writers now is generally acknowledged; Mb. Faulkner is a de-" vout disciple of his master, bjit in fits’ most intimate studies with Mr. Thayer he could never have dreamed that the theory of an. artist in relation to the dress of bjXls and animals would some day contribute to the success of American arms. ThZ company bristles’ with men, of the highest standing tn their profession/ Fry is a pupil of MacMonttlibs, Lorado Taft and other distinguished sculptors and, like Faulkner and Harry Thrasher, the painter, has taken the Prix du Rome_jUnong their comrades are Slitter, Tubesing, Dewer and Nell, the painters. Twigg Smith, who has been painting the exquisite scenes of the Hawaiian islands-,-has come back

companled by a tall, handsome officer in khaki. They had each reached, for a strap but it was only a second later when a man dragged himself out of a seat with a groan and offered It to the young girl. She thanked him prettily, and her soldier escort also acknowledge his gratitude. ThenTaff anemic looking little man, who might have been a clothing work* got out of his seat next the girl without warning, and waved the man In khaki Into the place. “Why, I can’t take your seat,” protested the officer,

THE EVENING REPUBLICAN. RENSSELAER. IND.

and enlisted. Sanger. Hovt. Foster and Comstock are listed among the architects. All are young men but they come from the best offices in the United States and many already have made names for themselves. Leslie Thrasher, who draws the striking frontispieces for the Saturday Evening Post, Is a rookie In the awkward squad. Men of this stamp are appearing at the camp every day, and enlistments are coming in so fast that Major Tracy has had his hands full dealing with them. The spirit of the command is an inspiration to the layman. While the achievements of the French in camouflage are well known, and the American organization is in, its infancy, it has been worth much to the men toknow that General Pershing really is eager for their services. Half their day is given to experiments in their own peculiar line, and they are confident that the problems they will' be calied upontosolve are relatively__ simple. The art of concealment has most to fear from the cameras of the enemy, for many an object which appears innocent to the eye is remorselessly exposed by the lens and the plate. Knowing this, the men are conducting a series of experiments in coloratlon which are carefully being tested out An artificial green which would deceive a naturalist at a few hundred yards might show black under the merciless gaze of the camera, and the artists already have mastered a secret of fooling the lens. They have invented a grass which can be turned out in quantities by a machine and usedas-ft CoverTng.and they have learned so to color it that it will defy detection. One of their first experiments was upon an humble latrine, which they so, disguised that at enemy distance it was invisible. They have taken to the trenches, and already have

discovered a method whereby a rifleman equipped with a proper helmet can be so concealed that a whole regiment might slowly arise from their places to fire without the enemy noting a particle of change in the appearance of the background. The sniper or sharpshooters is one of the most useful soldiers on the battle front, and uniforms are being devised which will be indistinguishable from tree or landscape. A fake road is being planned, at the end of which will be placed dummy cannon, while the real cannon are concealed hundreds of yards away. One of the arts of camouflage is to make certain that the object to be concealed contains all the color values of its background, and the artists know that if one color is omitted the object at once becomes very noticeable. The men are working in conjunction with the Signal Corps of the army at Fort Myer, qiid their experiments will be tested out thoroughly with airplanes and cameras.—tt is not pretended that the major part of the training can be' undertaken in this country or that these professional men, however high their standing.-eanteach.the~French. It has been demonstrated already, however, in the month in which the first increment has beep in training, that the company can acquire certain general principles which wil 1 prove useful in whatever work they may undertake In the future. The combination 6f ar 7 ’ tists and architects is a valuable one, for while the colorations of the one group are necessary, the designs of the other are equally important. The men have no doubt, that the American camoufleurs will prove their utility on the battlefield and that their work will result in the'saving of thousands of soldier lives. The finishing touches must be put on In France, but at Camp American University the groundwork is being laid for a service which is wholly unique in charactpr-altd demanding as much of patriotism, selfsacrifice and daring as any that Americans on the European battlefront will perform.- Bosron Transcript,. -- ■ ." - V

with a nice, blush!ng expression. “Why should you do such a thing for me?" “ ’Taln’t for you,” the other said ungraciously ; “it’s for the lady. Maybe she won’t have so much time to talk to you. Maybe she don’t, like to waste a minute. Sit down.” and he reached for a strap with a sublime unconsciousness of Ms own chivalry.

In Khaki.

< "This is the day of the poor man." “In what way?” "He can go abroad next summer."

Medieval Sleeve Well Liked Here

New York. —It Is not possible to diride the new gowns into strongly differing sections. No designer has taken a period and copied her gowns from it With certainty and exactitude. All of the French and American workers have jumbled their history in a way that would give the seeker after truth a brainstorm. ———- ~— It is well for the public at large that the designers do not stick too closely to period -clothes. When the decorators insist that one cannot have a curtain, a vase or a cushion in a room that is drawn from a certain period, we get beautiful pieces of Interior decorative work which should be in a museum, but which have little relationship to an intimate home life. It is wise for every woman to learn, and it would be well if one could only tfjach the artists and decorators the same thing, that exhibition work is one thing, but the kind of work that one must live with is another. We can go to museums or department shops and see period rooms and period dress, but human nature resents the thought of having such limited waking and sleeping hours. Therefore, we greet with pleasure the fact that vastly different periods of history have been dipped into for the new clothes; but anachronism is rife. Cal lot and the Empire. The Callot gowns were tße~laat to get to this cohntryT-anci- tney pre l7 - sented no new note, except the introduction of the First Empire silhouette. Even when Cal Tot took the most symbolic feature of this period, which is the high waistline that slightly girdles the figure just under the bust, she added medieval sleeves to it that the Empress Josephine never wore. _____ The most dominant First Empire frock that Callot has sent over is of brilliant red that Is neither geranium, Japanese nor wine. She calls it “incendie.” It has the richness of a ruby in the light and resembles that jewel to the inexperienced eye more than the flames from a conflagration. This gown is not marred by trimming. As the French say, it goes without a garnish. The neck is not low In the way that Callot is apt to arrange it, and the sleeves not only cover the arms and wrists, but the back of them hangs to the knees when the arms are dropped. When Callot features a new thing. It is bound to be significant, and.

This top coat is made of plum-col-ored satln with a woolenbaok.brocaded In plum and mauve floss. Cottar and cuffs are of black sealskin with edge of Russian fitch. The draw string allows the coat to be either loose or tight at waistline.

therefore, when she puts a modified angel sleeve In the same gown with an extreme Josephine waistline, she is (.producing something that will be widely copied and worn by women of the most ultrafashionable convictions. Medieval Sleeve Featured. Probably the medieval sleeve ■will receive more attention from American women than the First Empire waistline. This fact is increasingly evident exhibitions of Ameri-can-designed gowns, which have obviously taken the medieval sleeve as ~the chief-feature. An entire chapter of dress could be Written concernftig this sleeve. It has played a most historic part in the evolution of fashion throughout the centuries. America was quite well aware that some type of long, flowing sleeve would reappear this autumn. It was foreshadowed by— the voluminous tulle sleeves that reached to the wrist and hung downward tn points. Every cable from Paris insisted upon the preference shown by the French

women for gowns that did not expose the arms, even though they were half low at the neck. Fantastic gowns in this country, designed for the footlights, brought a good deal of attention to themselves by the Immensity of their sleeves, but these were usually fashioned on some antique Chinese idea, for their square outline was held in place by Chinese tassels and jade bracelets. Then came the first Callot gown with the genuine medieval sleeve. The men who were in Paris early in the summer and who saw the possl-

This is a blouse for the busy woman. It is made of white butcher**! in en with long shoulder seams. Cuffs, high stock and cravat are made of blue and white cross-barred silk. k

bllities in the renewal of sueb a sleeve, got it over here before the actual Callot gowns were unwrapped and displayed to the American public. It is not easy to define these sleeves by simply calling them medieval. To our American minds, they are reminiscent of the Abbey drawings. They might have been worn by the ddtlglF ters Of King Lear. And above all, their beauty catches the eye because of the cathedral colors in which they are dyed. Chinese Panels. There is another important feature in the new fashions that no woman can fall to overlook. These are what are known in France as flying panels. They are supposedly adopted from Chinese dress. They are placed on the skirt or on the bodice, and there are extreme gowns in which they swing from the shoulders. Jenny uses them in a gown that is fashioned after those worn by Chinese women. It has an oddly shaped, trousered skirt of chiffon that is'exceedlngly modest and graceful. Over this fabric hang straight, flying panels in irridescent taffeta that is weighted with gold and crystal fringe. The waist is loosely girdled about by a Chinese sash, and the long, floating sleeves of chiffon and crystals are caught in at the wrists and are transparent. Jenny, however, is not the only one who uses panels in whatever way they can be accommodated to the human figure. Doeulllet puts them on onepiece frocks and gathers them together at the waist under a girdle of some ornate, glowing fabric. Mme. Paquin makes an evening gown that is just two panels over a tight, sheathlike skirt, and the two are held in at the waistline by a brilliantly colored sash that somewhat imitates the American bustle silhouette by resolving itself into a bow and ends at the side. Premet, who has turned out such unusually good gowns this year, assembles her flying panels under a sash of Chinese or Japanese embroidery and arranges It in a big looped bow at the side which looks something like a bustle that has slipped—an uncomfortable and disagreeable way that they had of doing in that 188 CL period when women wore them in an uglier form than they are Introduced today. Need Not Match Skirt. It is not necessary to go to any trouble to have the panels match the tight skirt beneath in either color or material. Lanvin insists that the greater the difference between the two, the better the style. She will use hydrangea blue and black together or golden tan and deep purple. Even when these flying panels are not converted into an entire gown, there is a leading fashion which sees to it that most of our frocks look as though they were split up the sides, to show the tightest skirt that we could walk in. Cherult and manv of her colleagues have not forsaken the apron gown. The little accessory which resembles an apron, but is intended for ornament and not service, appears on a sufficient number of new frocks to proclaim Itself still in fashion. (Copyright, 1917, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)- ~

The Furs Most Used.

The furs which appear most often this season are Hudson seal, nutria, kolinsky, Russian rat, moufflon and fox, especially fox dyed in fancy cob o«-

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Her Qualifications.

The housekeeper of the Hotel Severin, in quest for housemaids, receives many applicants and not a few requests for a trial at the job through the mall, says the Indianapolis News. One young woman wrote from a small -town in nn-adjoining state -that-she-would like to have a try at hotel housekeeping and offered this Inducement: “I a mtwenty-two years of age. have brown hair and eyes, and weigh 183 pounds. I have never been sick two days in my life. Folks say I am nice looking and have-a kind disposition.” “It sounded good,” said the hotel housekeeper, “but I wrote the young woman that we were keeping a hotel and not running a matrimonial agency.”

Disqualified.

Knicker—ls Jones physically disqualified to be a soldier? Bocker —He can’t see red, white and blue; he can’t hear the call of duty and his legs run backward.

Opposing Tactics.

“Take that gas meter out.” “What for?-” “Because it Is taking us in.”

J. F. Mlkulee of Croatia, now In Philadelphia, has walked 100,000 miles In 20 years on world tour. It’s better to be born beautiful than brainy, unless you’ve brains enough to contrlvetß?l>eauly too. —~——-

There’s Superior Flavor 'To * as a table beverage. A package from the grocer is well worth a trial, in place of coffee—especially When Coffee Disagrees!