Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 240, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 25 October 1917 — Great Variety of Fashions Offered [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Great Variety of Fashions Offered

New York.—There comes a time in every woman’s life when she grants fashions in paragraphs or, probably, a better way to put it is that she wants her news capsuled so that she can digest it in the quickest and easiest manner. These are stirring times in the world of buying and selling women’s apparel. Contrary to all the expectations of the pessimists and the croaking of the gloomy prophets, there is a scramble for enough merchandise to sell to the women on this continent at this moment. They have money; they want new clothes; Paris has sent alluring costumery quite in keeping with our spirit of war-time dressing; the shops are crowded, and the bulk of the buying has gone to the people who offer clothes that are not eccentric or overpriced. When fashions are slack, women have time to read about them In detail when they are being rushed across the stage; but now, as in an exciting movie, there Is no time for comment or philosophy, for theory or observation. “News! Give us news!’’ is what the people cry who want to go out tomorrow morning and buy. . This Is no time, therefore, to dwell upon one subject and embroider It a

bit in an attempt to entch a woman’s fancy. There'ls so much to say that there is not half enough space in which to say it. A colossal cornucopia of fashions has been shaken out over the heads of women, and one is catching as one can catch here and there. So much is changed, so much that is new is offered, so vast a variety of stimulating and enlivening fashions have fallen from the skies, as it were, that women, ever alert for interesting clothes at this season of the year, are asking a thousand questions and adding more before these are answered. Under this stimulus, the one who reports fashions must try to meet the situation by turning out the news in that old, old form of journalistic expression known as the reporter’s notebook. After a while, affairs will simmer down. They will establish themselves on a sound basis and probably remain on that foundation until next

’ ,'bruary. IHowever, there is no hope for calm at this moment and therefore, I pour out all the news of the hour in paragraphs. They cover, the situation as far as it goes. High Collars In Blouses. The strongest evidence that women will wear high collars in the winter, is that they are appearing in the cheap, ready-to-wear blouses. Some of these are boned and fit the neck. Others have a ruffle at the top of the high edge. Neither style is as attractive as the one that- flares at the top in the French fashion and envelopes the flesh at the top of the neck instead of pushing ijt r '. ' The strong desire shown by the great designers is to follow the lines of the figure in all gowns. This eliminates petticoats in a large measure. When they are worn, they must be exceedingly slim and of soft material. The tendency toward the dfrectoire gown is more marked as the autumn advances, especially as regards colorful waistcoats that fit the figure. Kolinsky will hold its place as the leader of peltry this season. It will be lavishly used for trimming street suits. Hudson seal ranks high. Its soft and pliable skin allows it to fit in with the clinging drapery of the year. Manufacturers say there is A strong demand for fine grades of Hudson seal, especially for coats. Straight boxcoats that, flare slightly at the hem, will be fashionable. Jet, in every form, will be acceptable 1 this year. The reopening of the did mines in England, which were once worked by the monks, has given a. Strong impetus to the trade in black crystal. Sequins will not be used. The surface will be facetted and highly polished. Entire gowns of jet in superb design, mounted on black tujle, will

be offered as the first fashion for evening, although they are very expensive. Jet buttons will be put on gowns of serge, satin, velour and velvet Belt# of jet will be used on one-piece frocks for the afternoon. The cadet sash of the hour, which Is used on short coats as well as frocks will be weighted with thick jet tassels. In more ways than anyone could think were possible, gray Is mixed with other colors. It is especially effective when placed with subtle shades of blue. Violet, heliotrope, salmon, watermelon pink and flame red are some of the colors which are put with gray gowns to be worn for ail hours of the day and evening. Gray one-piece frocks for the street, offered as a substitute for tailored suits, have fitted, medieval corselets made of braid. Careless cravats on the most formal suits, gain in importance. This kind of neckwear started in Paris last May, but the American dressmaker did not take It seriously until the new autumn models arrived.

These cravats are made of the cloth of the suit, lined with a fanciful fabric, or they embody a brilliant color scheme, which has many advantages in that It brightens the suit and often makes it more becoming to the wearer. So far, the high, stiff, military coat collar has not appeared, but every other kind of collar that mounts to the chin has been employed to supply the demand for high neckwear. The trench muffler is delighted In by many women, whether it is made of fur or cloth. It almost disguises the face, it envelopes so much of the lower part of it. Ostrich Plumes Again. Ostrich plumes are slowly coming back into fashion. Paris provided them for the great middle class of women who suddenly became well-to-do through high salaries. These women believe that sealskin coats, diamond solitaires and ostrich feathers are still the symbols of wealth. ' What was true of France quickly became true of England. Although plumes are selling there today at S9O and SIOO apiece, because of reduction in supply, there are buyers aplenty for them. It is expected that the industrial condition of America will be the same as that which has prevailed in England and France during the latter pari of the war, and that the women, who are the real spenders of a nation, will buy clothes more lavishly and recklessly than they have for a century. The reason for this is that i they are taking the places of men and getting money to spend without asking men for it. As for the ostrich feather in America, it is slowly making its appearance, but it is sponsored by so mahy good houses that no doubt it will appear

on many hats when the cold weather comes. Hatter’s plush Is strongly indorsed by the milliners for women’s street hats. It will also be used for the brims of the large picture hats which have collapsible velvet crowns. Fortunately for the majority of women, the bellshaped hat vj-hlch was in fashion last summer, will be retained for the winter in this new material. (Copyright, 1917, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.)

The material used in this evening gown is supple satin in pink and mauve orchid tones. The bodice is cut in irregular points over hips, and there is a watteau train dropped from the shoulders. The short sleeves are finished with chinchilla.

Four-cornered black velvet hat with crown of horizon blue ribbon. Upstanding ostrich plume also in blue.