Evening Republican, Volume 21, Number 219, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 1 October 1917 — Advance Notes On Winter Wear [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Advance Notes On Winter Wear

Parts. —This year the season at Biarritz has opened quite brilliantly. Everyone is cheered up by the arrival of the splendid “Sammiesl,” who are already

established favorites in France. Everyone is of the • opinion that the entry of •America into the war is the beginning of the end. And indeed we, who have lived in France all through the past three years, have almost come to the end of endurance. At Biarritz in the autumn season we always look for advance notes on the winter styles. Nearly all the important dressmakers of Paris have branch establishments at Biarritz and it is here that the first show of winter fashions takes place. Biarritz is almost a frontier town and so close to Spain thftt the Spanish women, who are devoted to dress, have made it a second Paris; it is‘here that they purchase their beautiful winter toilettes in the fall, and it is here that they, or very many of them, are worn for the first time, just to take off the newness and —so they say—to get the better of the sharp customhouse people w ; hen crossing the frontier. Lovely Models for Autumn. Paquin is showing some rarely lovely models this autumn, in a dainty little “magazin,” which is close to the sea front and side by side with the famous Maison Lewis. One Paquin model seen was a charming and eminently useful dress expressed in midnight-blue charmeuse and “shrapnel-gra'y” poult de soie.

The ceinture was handsomely beaded In blue, gray and silver, and the long tassel matched. Round the decollete neck of this little dress there was a narrow band of skunk. This is essentially a useful style of dress, for it might be worn on almost any occasion, always looking smart and uncommon without being in any way sensational ; it is the kind of dress which has gone far to make Mme. Paquin’s reputation. I can imagine this model copied in black charmeuse, with ceinture and tussel in scarlet, blue, silver and jet beads, and the touch of skunk on the collar, or again, in sapphire blue, silk fldlshed cashmere with belt and tassel in cut steel beads worked on pale gray suede and a handsome steel tassel. In fact a dozen different variations suggest themselves, for the outline of the model is charmingly original and simple. Original Tailored Suit. The figure illustrated shows a highly original tailored suit created by Redfern. Here you have the large turnover collar which is a feature of the autumn season. These collars are to be found on many of the new coats and wraps and they are exceedingly comfortable and easy. The Redfern model was carried out in tete de Ne-. gre duvetine and brown and white checked velvet. The skirt is slit up the sides in doll fashion and where it opens it shows panels of the checked velvet; this little coatee hangs straight at the back and is cut in the inevitable sack style. “Monk’s cloth” is very much in evidence In the advance models shown at Biarritz just now. Callot is using this cloth for specially effective driving wraps, and she advocates very brilliant and rich colors, such as brick-red, rust-red, military-scarlet, japonica-pink and emerald. Callot is mixing skunk with ermine on some of her new evening wraps, and is thus obtaining most attractive results. For example, a flowing wrap, very like the loose robe worn by Chinamen of high degree, made of bright japonica-pink faced cloth And lined with black charmeuse brocaded

in aluminum threads. There was a hood collar of ermine bordered with skunk, and the two furs appeared side by side on the wide sleeves of the wrap. Down the fronts there were three beautiful aluminum ornaments which served to fasten the cloak. - Garments for Motoring. A more ordinary garment, Intended for motoring or for wearing over a smart frock on a chilly day, was made of pale beige monk’s cloth and lined with printed Indian silk which showed wonderful shades of blue, red and gray on a white ground. There was a deep shoulder cape which was almost covered with embroideries worked in a heavy make of beige silk and a roll over collar of beaver fur which exactly matched the shade Of the cloth. This was a very harmonious and desirable garment and I was not surprised to hear that it has already proved a great success; copies of it in different colors and materials seem to be pouring in. Another favorite winter material is velvet-pile blanket cloth, an English stuff which is in great favor with the Parisiennes. I saw a driving wrap made of this material at the Paquin display; the color was clear beige and the wrap was finished with a deep collar and immense cuffs of soft beaver, while the lining consisted of black and white striped taffetas. This was a thoroughly useful wrap and one which I can confidently recommend to my readers. The rage for beaver fur is fierce as ever, and the correct thing is a beaver-colored tailored suit trimmed with bands, collar, etc., of the best quality beaver fur. With such a costume a smart little hat in bright emerald velvet would be worn. Pretty Hat for Autumn. Lucie Hamar is creating many lovely things this autumn. I have illustrated one of her latest novelties, which is making a big serisation amongst the pretty Spanish girls. This is a delightfully becoming drawn silk hat in a demure shade of lavender which _has_ around the crown a band of gray squirrel and in front a handsome beaded ornament in mauve, gray and silver. This is one of the very new shapes and entirely satisfactory. The hat is quite small, with a cloche brim and a corded silk crown. It was to accompany a smart tailored suit made of lavender cloth which was trimmed with bands of squirrel. The coat of this suit was finished with a straight, throw-over tie made of cloth and fur. These throw-over ties are the latest

craze, which is not surprlsingas they are infinitely becoming and very easily made. These ties are attached to the coat Itself and take the place of an ordinary collar, one end being left loose and thrown round the neck and over the shoulder at will. —Idalia de Villiers, in the Boston Globe.

Coatee and Skirt of “Tete de Negre.”

Smart Hat for Autumn.